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IOwnCalculus posted:They used to? I've got a set on my car and two more in the garage since my alignment toasted the rears You're correct. When I was looking for some tires in the stock size sometime back they didn't show up on tirerack in that size. They still don't, but googling some other sites has them. For about twice the price of the 615's. I understand that not everybody wants the same thing and has different opinions though. Just a personal recommendation and I gave my reasons for recommending them as such. It still comes down to him to decide what he wants and what's best for him. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Sep 11, 2009 |
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Sep 11, 2009 01:31
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They just discontinued them. The Hankook R-S2s ran me 300 shipped and mounted this past April. I can pull up the exact # when I go home. Anyways, the R-S2s are way better than the Azenis in how they perform in performance driving, the rain, and long duration spirited driving.
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Sep 11, 2009 04:27
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Eh, argument is probably my fault as I should have been more clear in my post. I don't need crazy expensive racing tires or the like. Seeing how few miles the car has taken on in ~16 years, maybe a low-mileage high performance tire would be appropriate. It will be garaged in the winter so definitely won't need ice/snow rubber. Thanks for the recommendations.
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Sep 11, 2009 14:37
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What do you guys think of this? http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1368831365.html Not sure whats going on with the hood...not closed maybe?
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Sep 11, 2009 21:53
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unknown poster posted:What do you guys think of this? That looks like total junk.
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Sep 12, 2009 00:56
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unknown poster posted:What do you guys think of this? Looks like the paint is pretty faded (or the pics suck) and the wheels look pretty nasty. Guess you could repaint them also. I wouldn't pay that for that car, it looks like poo poo even though it may be fine mechanically. You can find a lot better cars for not a whole lot more $.
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Sep 12, 2009 01:06
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I knew my hosed up top was gonna get me in trouble sometime.  drat thing has so many rattles and hack modifications, I am completely thinking about stripping the rollbar and wheels off of it and getting a cleaner NA or NB to start with.
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Sep 12, 2009 15:59
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beatdown posted:Are you sure its the gear box? Mine has a pretty annoying rattle when engine breaking between 2-3k, which I'm pretty sure is actually pieces of the cat just rattling around inside the cat. The cat in this car is long gone. I'm pretty sure it is the gearbox, the noise is kinda half way between a buzz and a grind little hard to describe. After a bit of a Google I found this thread: http://www.mx5oc.co.uk/forum/forums/t/5734.aspx , but I don't know how plausible it is. Any comments?
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Sep 13, 2009 02:08
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I'm considering picking up a 01-05 NB next spring but am wondering if I've got it right on which ones came with the LSD. From what I've gathered all the manual LS packages have it, and the others do if they have the sport package. Is this right? Is the fastest way to check for the sport package just to take a look at the shocks?
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Sep 16, 2009 00:40
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 3 and a half years old and people still ask if it's new. Moral of the story: buy a loving bottle of Zaino and use it every few months. Still need to put on some new springs.
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Sep 16, 2009 01:52
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beatdown posted:Are you sure its the gear box? Mine has a pretty annoying rattle when engine breaking between 2-3k, which I'm pretty sure is actually pieces of the cat just rattling around inside the cat. Are you sure that's not the heat shields?? They tend to break off a bit and rattle at certain RPM... I had one go bad on my 91 BRG that rattled horribly right around 2900 - 3100 RPM... On the plus side, I got good mileage on my commute by just using the rattle as a shift indicator, but after a trip to Deal's Gap and having to listen to it constantly as I shifted and braked around all the twisties just about drove me homicidal. I thought it was the cat originally too, as it sounded a LOT like the magic goo in the cat breaking off and rattling... but after some banging on the pipes, found it to be two small heat shields (just around the end of the exhaust manifold)... took them the rest of the way off and no more rattle. e: it's RPM, not RPMs... sigh...
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Sep 20, 2009 22:30
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FireTora posted:I'm considering picking up a 01-05 NB next spring but am wondering if I've got it right on which ones came with the LSD. From what I've gathered all the manual LS packages have it, and the others do if they have the sport package. Is this right? Is the fastest way to check for the sport package just to take a look at the shocks?
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Sep 22, 2009 00:31
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Hi fellas, over the last two weeks my clutch has started slipping if I give the engine any more than 1/3 throttle. It used to only slip in 4th gear at full throttle but now it slips in all gears. The time from when I first noticed it slipping to it slipping in all gears was only about a week and a half. I guess I'm going to order a new clutch this week, just wondering if anyone experienced anything similar and it wasn't the clutch needing replaced. The car has 92k and is on it's original clutch. The fluid looks ok and that is about the extent of my underhood analysis.
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Sep 22, 2009 18:28
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You probably need the clutch... and while you're at it, to a transmission fluid change and the rear main seal since the tranny will be off the motor. As far as I know, everything else that can go wrong will either be really noisy or it will make it hard to disengage the clutch, not make it slip.
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Sep 22, 2009 18:52
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So at work (car dealership), we got a 1990 with 62k miles on it, paint and wheels are pristine, no leaks or anything, and apparently never driven in winter in on a trade-in. A salesman convinced the general manager of the store to sell it to him. For $1,500. 
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Sep 22, 2009 21:41
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T-Square posted:So at work (car dealership), we got a 1990 with 62k miles on it, paint and wheels are pristine, no leaks or anything, and apparently never driven in winter in on a trade-in. if the timing belt hasn't been done, I'd say that's a fair price.
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Sep 22, 2009 22:13
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kimbo305 posted:if the timing belt hasn't been done, I'd say that's a fair price. A service that shouldn't cost more than $500 at any shop, and $100 for any half-competent DIYer? That's a drat steal.
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Sep 22, 2009 22:17
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kimbo305 posted:if the timing belt hasn't been done, I'd say that's a fair price. A fair price? That's a loving steal regardless of timing belt. A car like that around here would fetch triple that on craigslist within 24 hours.
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Sep 22, 2009 22:45
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right, I guess I forgot about the regional variations in prices. Good '90 Miatas around here are expensive at 3000.
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Sep 22, 2009 22:52
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Yeah, sorry about that. NA Miatas around here (I'm in SE Wisconsin) are going for around 3-4k at upwards of 100k miles. drat dealership shenanigans!
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Sep 23, 2009 03:31
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State Farm put fair market value of my '90 with 187k and tore up paint and ugly non-stock wheels at $2500 
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Sep 23, 2009 15:15
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They should be asking you for a refund.
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Sep 23, 2009 20:10
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Oil woes. My miata's back at the menders after losing all its oil within 1300km. After a low-oil alert three weeks after picking the car up, my mechanic said that someone had DIYed the cam cover and tried to glue the gasket down with caulk - and then left the cam cover bolts finger-tight. He cleaned the caulk off and torqued the cam cover down correctly for me. He also replaced the PCV as he thought something was pressurising the head. After 1300km i've checked the oil and it's at the low mark again. It's not burning it at startup, and after a long run if you look at the engine block it's definitely still weeping engine oil through the cam cover gasket. My mechanic thinks something's still pressurising the head, so the car's gone back to him to look at some more. Anyone have any idea what could be causing this? 
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Sep 23, 2009 22:19
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meltie posted:Oil woes. Did he put on a new gasket or just remove the caulk? I'd start with that since it's probably like $20. If the PCV valve is working correctly that should vent the pressure beneath the valve cover. The valve stem seals could be leaking a bit and pressuring under the cover, which would also explain the oil burning. But since it doesn't do it at start up, I'm guessing that's not the issue. Fix all the leaks with new gaskets.
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Sep 23, 2009 23:08
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DreamOn13 posted:Did he put on a new gasket or just remove the caulk? I'd start with that since it's probably like $20. If the PCV valve is working correctly that should vent the pressure beneath the valve cover. The valve stem seals could be leaking a bit and pressuring under the cover, which would also explain the oil burning. But since it doesn't do it at start up, I'm guessing that's not the issue. Fix all the leaks with new gaskets. Bugger. He's had a look and he reckons it is now burning oil. Burning oil + smoking + leaking block? Piston rings or somesuch. He's quoted me £400 in the past to source and fit a used engine - I might take him up on it
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Sep 24, 2009 18:59
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2000 Miata LS, 56000 miles I keep getting this weird "clack clack" noise when I depress the clutch at low rpms (between 1300 and 1700) in first gear only although I think I might have noticed it once or twice in reverse. I've searched the internet for like 3 hours and can't find anyone with this same symptom except this one blog post with a video of it doing it and there is no contact information on the site from what I can see. VIDEO OF SOMEONE ELSES MIATA DOING THIS http://www.mymiata.net/2009/08/miata-noise/ Please help! Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Sep 24, 2009 |
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Sep 24, 2009 20:14
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Mine makes a similar noise but usually only one or two audible thunks - usually it's when I'm not being as smooth as I should be and I'm popping the clutch with some considerable load on the drivetrain still. I think it's just the whole mess binding / unbinding, mine has done it as long as I can remember.
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Sep 24, 2009 20:25
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I just thought I'd let everyone know of a short little gag panel in my friend's sociology book. There's a cartoony SUV with a cell-phone talking mom driving and her kids in the back seat, with a mangled pile of something behind the SUV. The mom driving is talking on her phone saying "Wow I REALLY felt that last bump, I need to get these shocks fixed!" The kid in the back is saying "Mom, that wasn't a bump, that was a Miata."
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Sep 25, 2009 00:57
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Brain Issues posted:2000 Miata LS, 56000 miles That's actually a video of a goon's miata. It was posted 6 or 7 pages ago, I think. It's just drivetrain slack.
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Sep 25, 2009 01:02
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Hypnolobster posted:That's actually a video of a goon's miata. It was posted 6 or 7 pages ago, I think. It's just drivetrain slack. Ding ding. Completely normal.
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Sep 25, 2009 19:08
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A few posts back I commented on Miata prices in the area. Here's an example of a cheap one: http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/cto/1393230956.html "93 Miata MX-5 converable with 133,000 milles. Black w/tan softop; 5 sp manual; tan leather seats, very strong engine with new timing belt, radiator, thermostate, all hoses, and water pump. Oil changed every 3 months. Asking $2,000 for quick sale!" Yeah it's higher miles, but it's had the timing belt and water pump done, it's not a short nose and it has leather. I want it
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Sep 26, 2009 17:11
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My engine is making a lot of valve clatter; I think it's the HLA noise, but just to be sure: '99 1.8, 55k. Just did an oil change over the weekend; 5w30 with synthetic; admittedly, it wasn't the same Synthetic I used last time (I forget the brand offhand, but I had been using Mobil 1), so that might be partially to blame. Also, I was at 5k on my last oil, and despite the manual suggesting a change every 7500, I still felt like I was cheating a bit. Think this'll work itself out? Should I give it the old Italian tune up? Oil thickener? Just learn my lesson and do a change every 3k?
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Oct 5, 2009 14:47
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1999 has solid lifters
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Oct 5, 2009 15:25
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You may want to search miata.net. I was told 9K on synthetic was no problem. People have sent in used oil for analysis at different mileage points and established some good data points.
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Oct 5, 2009 15:27
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destructo posted:1999 has solid lifters Well poo poo. Is valve noise on this engine a real bad thing in that case?
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Oct 5, 2009 16:51
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Shlomo Palestein posted:Well poo poo. Is valve noise on this engine a real bad thing in that case? It means you're going to get it unless you feel like reshimming all of the valves. My '99 has been ticking like a sewing machine since I bought it at ~40k; I've never seen any maintenance schedule or anything from Mazda saying you have to adjust the valve clearances. Also, I ran a UOA on mine on Mobil 1 at 90k - came back as good for about 6000 miles. 5000 miles on synthetic is nothing for the oil in all but the most abusive engines / conditions.
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Oct 5, 2009 17:07
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Eh, I can deal with sewing machine. My bike does the same thing, and I KNOW it's that I'm a bit loose on the adjustment because...well, I shimmed the valves. I just didn't know if there were further issues to worry about on a Miata, but if it's just the clatter, I don't care at all. I might do a tranny oil + 50 wt run through next change, but given I'm gonna have to shell out for the 60k service... I might not.
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Oct 5, 2009 17:39
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Anyone in the DFW area want to buy a slightly wrecked 94 with <90k miles on it? 5-speed, white with tan leather interior and tan top. Top trim line for the year, apparently. My girlfriend got into it with an SUV and crushed the right front fender, dented the door, busted the mirror and left some paint scrapes down the right side of the car. The monocoque is straight, the fender-hood gap is uniform and even on both sides, and the car still drives straight with no vibration or noise. With a new fender (~$150) a new door with mirror ($250), and some PDR on the rear quarter it'd be right as rain, and with a little more touchup it'd be good as new. Other known issues: The top is original and has some pinholes in it, the passenger seat has been eaten away by battery acid (PO kept a battery in the seat for two years for some unfathomable reason), and it's due for a timing/water pump job. Headrest speakers are blown, result of some shoddy stereo installation work by the original owner or a party thereto, and the A/C may or may not be leaking. This is all stuff that I could fix if I had time, tools, and a place to do it, but since I don't I just want to get rid of the damned thing so I can get my girlfriend something else. I don't even know how much I should be asking for it. I paid $4000 a year ago, and I know I'll be taking a big loss, just be gentle 
fatman1683 fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Oct 5, 2009 |
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Oct 5, 2009 17:51
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Shlomo Palestein posted:Eh, I can deal with sewing machine. My bike does the same thing, and I KNOW it's that I'm a bit loose on the adjustment because...well, I shimmed the valves. I just didn't know if there were further issues to worry about on a Miata, but if it's just the clatter, I don't care at all. I might do a tranny oil + 50 wt run through next change, but given I'm gonna have to shell out for the 60k service... I might not. Do you not have anywhere / time / tools to work on it with? The timing belt and waterpump on these cars really is simple work, it's just time consuming.
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Oct 5, 2009 17:57
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IOwnCalculus posted:Do you not have anywhere / time / tools to work on it with? The timing belt and waterpump on these cars really is simple work, it's just time consuming. It's a matter not only of finding time, but finding it quick. I'm in Massachusetts, for one, so I have a month and a half until it becomes unbearable to do long-term repairs outside. Number two is that I don't have a place to leave the car overnight; if I can finish the job in an afternoon, that's fine, but I'm in an open parking lot. I figure if I get lucky, I'll stay under 5k this winter and just do it in the spring. Not afraid of the work so much as getting stuck midway through and it raining on me or something.
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Oct 5, 2009 19:28
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