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Sterndotstern posted:It's the optimal home shop jack, but LOOKY WHAT I GOT HERE! If I print this out of a B/W printer and bring it to a store will they honor it?
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Sep 4, 2009 22:47
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I'd be amazed if they didn't. I had one of their employees recommend and sell me a replacement plan for a meat grinder being used to grind up plastics. I went through four of them in under a week and they didn't mind one bit.
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Sep 4, 2009 23:00
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Can you clear codes with the cheap ECU readers? I need to change the gasket on my fuel pump and it'll likely throw an CEL when I depressurize the fuel system. I'd like to be able to clear it myself.
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Sep 5, 2009 00:44
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InitialDave posted:Clean'N'Strip discs for grinders, which are a very open sponge mixed with abrasives, are very effective at removing paint without gumming up or trashing the metal underneath. Using these to do larger areas, and media blasting tricky nooks and crannies, might be faster than blasting the whole lot if you don't have a full-on industrial rig. I got one of these, I think it was 35 grit (lavender colored), you still have to be real careful with it, and it will scratch the metal even if you are careful. but drat it works fast. I found that paint stripper worked better, it stripped down to the metal with no scratches, but was real messy. Doctor Zero posted:Can you clear codes with the cheap ECU readers? I need to change the gasket on my fuel pump and it'll likely throw an CEL when I depressurize the fuel system. I'd like to be able to clear it myself. It depends on the unit, some cheap ones will, others will just tell you a code. You have to read the package and see if it says it will reset codes too. I had a CEL from the gas cap not being tighened all the way, it took a few fillups, ut it cleared itself.
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Sep 5, 2009 01:32
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Anybody have recommendations for a 6" DA sander? I'm going to be stripping down my Beetle this winter/next summer and I'm going to take it down to bare metal. Air or electric, either is fine. I've got 200 gallons of air sitting in the garage so it's not like one is better than the other. I'd be perfectly happy spending up to $170ish, because this won't be the last time it's used. Nearer to $100 would be nice, though. e: evidently air sanders are lighter and have more control. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Sep 5, 2009 |
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Sep 5, 2009 02:13
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Hypnolobster posted:Anybody have recommendations for a 6" DA sander? I'm going to be stripping down my Beetle this winter/next summer and I'm going to take it down to bare metal. If you're going down to metal, an 8" geared orbital sander works WAY better than a DA, though you may wish to use a random orbit sander to finish the job. The 8" sandpaper is quite a bit more costly, but it's worth it. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand-328B-Geared-Orbital-Sander/dp/B0002SRNOQ I wouldn't even actually bother with a DA. Get something more comfortable, and controllable, like this: http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand-4151-6-Inch-Vacuum-Pnuematic/dp/B00004XOT6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1252118042&sr=1-1
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Sep 5, 2009 03:36
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Just picked up everyone's favorite lightweight aluminum racing jack from HF and god drat is it a huge improvement from my Craftsman floor jack. This thing is drat nice for $60, I'm very impressed.
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Sep 5, 2009 06:28
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hippynerd posted:I got one of these, I think it was 35 grit (lavender colored), you still have to be real careful with it, and it will scratch the metal even if you are careful. but drat it works fast. 
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Sep 5, 2009 10:40
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CatBus posted:If you're going down to metal, an 8" geared orbital sander works WAY better than a DA, though you may wish to use a random orbit sander to finish the job. The 8" sandpaper is quite a bit more costly, but it's worth it. Should I go up to 8" when I'm sanding a car that's nothing but big huge curves? There are almost zero flat spots on the whole car. I'm pretty resigned to having to either blast the fenders or just sand them by hand. e: 73 Super Beetle
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Sep 6, 2009 01:22
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Hypnolobster posted:Should I go up to 8" when I'm sanding a car that's nothing but big huge curves? There are almost zero flat spots on the whole car. I'm pretty resigned to having to either blast the fenders or just sand them by hand. Stripping paint with a 6" DA is an incredible pain in the rear end (depending on how thick it is). I would personally go the geared orbital sander route, because it just works so much better for removing material, and it is less likely to remove metal than a grinder with a sanding pad. Those 3M abrasive fiber wheels are slick, but crazy expensive for a big job, and they don't work too well on thick paint jobs, in my experience. Plus, it seems like it would take forever to do a whole car with one.
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Sep 7, 2009 23:58
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I think I will end up grabbing the orbital, and soda blast the fenders and other hilariously curvy poo poo. I've been wanting to get into soda blasting for a long while. It'd be amazingly helpful for about 300 different things. Carbs, stickers, wheels, suspension parts, smaller panels and goofy gaps like my rain rails and such, etc, etc, etc. It's almost too good to be true.
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Sep 8, 2009 00:34
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Is anyone an expert on cordless impacts? I'm looking for a 1/2" drive cordless impact and was considering the Ingersoll Rand W360 http://www.ingersollrandproducts.com/IS/Product.aspx-eu_en-34594 . Its kind of pricey but alot less than the 1/2" drive snap on. Is it a good gun? Would I be better off just going for the snap on? or are there cheaper ones that are as good? Valkyn fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Sep 8, 2009 |
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Sep 8, 2009 03:04
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ease posted:Have you ever done rear disc brakes? On most foreign cars (not sure about US) you need to push in and rotate at the same time because of the screw type e-brake mechanism. Oh, and make sure that once you've finished twisting it in that you leave it so the tab on the pad lines up into one of the notches. Also probably best to make sure you don't leave too much room so that it still lines up once you pump the brakes, and to check it's gone together properly when you're done. I say this because the mechanic who had done the last pad change clearly wasn't as careful - the tab ended up holding the pad at an angle, and I only found out a while later when I discovered a very unevenly (and prematurely) worn out set of pads, a disc all grinded up on the inside (the pad looked like it had a fair bit of meat left from the outside edge), and the reason why the handbrake never really worked that well. Fuzz1111 fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Sep 8, 2009 |
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Sep 8, 2009 05:26
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Fuzz1111 posted:This was posted some time ago but no-one seems to have given an easy solution - when I did this on an aussie-spec R31 Skyline I found the winder to the scissor jack the car comes with (the style that ends in a T on the side that goes in that jack) fit perfectly into the notches on either side of the piston, and actually made the rears on that car the easiest brake pad change I've ever done. outside edge), and the reason why the handbrake never really worked that well. I plan on getting a set like this when I need to do my brakes: http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_V--2.0T/Tools/Hand_Tools/ES9747/ I think you can borrow these sets from auto parts stores if you need 'em.
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Sep 8, 2009 07:30
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Doctor Zero posted:Can you clear codes with the cheap ECU readers? I need to change the gasket on my fuel pump and it'll likely throw an CEL when I depressurize the fuel system. I'd like to be able to clear it myself. I bought a cheapy OBD-II reader for $32 shipped on ebay and it reads and clears codes.
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Sep 8, 2009 17:08
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I need to clean up a surface rusted exhaust header and piping. What are some good options for cleaning it up? Wire wheel on a drill? Maybe something like this? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=35455
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Sep 9, 2009 00:49
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Need to clean it up for welding, want to clean the whole thing, or want to clean it so that you can paint it properly?
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Sep 9, 2009 17:36
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RealKyleH posted:Need to clean it up for welding, want to clean the whole thing, or want to clean it so that you can paint it properly? The welds are fine. More clean it up for wrapping the header.
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Sep 9, 2009 18:43
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Sandblast will be fastest/easiest.
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Sep 9, 2009 18:56
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c355n4 posted:The welds are fine. More clean it up for wrapping the header. I'm not trying to diss what you're doing, but I've always heard that header wrap causes them to rust out, I guess poo poo like salt, grime, etc gets caught up in the wrap. You might be better off ceramic coating them if thats within your budget.
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Sep 13, 2009 03:02
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Anyone know what the max coupon people have seen from HF? I want to get a benchtop lathe, but 20% is the best I've seen. Has there been 25% or more coupons before? Also, has anyone used the HF wood lathes before? Has there been sales on them?
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Sep 16, 2009 20:08
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scapulataf posted:I'm not trying to diss what you're doing, but I've always heard that header wrap causes them to rust out, I guess poo poo like salt, grime, etc gets caught up in the wrap. You might be better off ceramic coating them if thats within your budget. The wrap traps heat, higher heat means faster corrosion. Unless the ceramic coating is completely sealing off the metal it will do the same thing.
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Sep 16, 2009 20:23
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20% is the highest you can get from HF.
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Sep 16, 2009 22:40
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oxbrain posted:The wrap traps heat, higher heat means faster corrosion. Unless the ceramic coating is completely sealing off the metal it will do the same thing. Wraps hold water really well, similar to what happens to crappy heat shields.
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Sep 16, 2009 23:11
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oxbrain posted:The wrap traps heat, higher heat means faster corrosion. Unless the ceramic coating is completely sealing off the metal it will do the same thing. I see, but don't they completely submerge the piece in the ceramic solution or is it a spray on type thing where they might miss hard to reach spots?
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Sep 17, 2009 13:50
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scapulataf posted:I see, but don't they completely submerge the piece in the ceramic solution or is it a spray on type thing where they might miss hard to reach spots? If it's like Jet-Hot ( http://www.jet-hot.com/ ) than its similar to powder coating, where you have the inside and outside coated/powdercoated/baked. Unless its a DPF/Muffler or CAT in which case I'm guessing it's an exterior only treatment. Then again if someone is dropping down money on something like Jet-Hot for their entire exhaust system, then they'll probably running a "test pipe" 
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Sep 17, 2009 18:16
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Today I checked the mail and found an unexpected $650 check (from cashing out my stock options from a former job; I did it some time ago, but it didn't go through until the end of the quarter). I also got a Harbor Freight flier. It's like God is trying to tell me something. 
Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 09:14 on Sep 19, 2009 |
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Sep 19, 2009 09:10
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Uthor posted:I plan on getting a set like this when I need to do my brakes: I do see a couple of attachments that would probably work but I'd end up having more or less the same tool (used exactly the same way) as my scissor jack handle. Actually it'd probably worse as there would be less leverage and I sorta needed it for the initial twist on those ~16 year old brakes.
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Oct 2, 2009 03:36
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Ok, I bought this on impulse from HF today open box for $70. Reading other forums they mostly say stay away but I'm not looking for much. I have it for a month, I was thinking of getting new fluxcore since that's the #1 recommendation during my trial period. I mostly want it for small stuff, auto body work, maybe a BBQ pit later down the road and other various light duty things (end tables, random crap). Given the fact I know I won't be using it heavily, is it still worth it? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98871 My local craigslist doesn't have anything of interest below the $200 mark, that's why I like the idea of this one.
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Oct 6, 2009 05:17
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90Amp Welder... Duty cycle: 10% @ 80 amps, 18% @ 60 amps hahahahaha I bet its actually more like a 30amp welder if you get up to the 60% duty cycle area. 30Amps wont weld much. I use tig but I cant think of the last time I welded anything with 30 amps. Heck dont even use as little as 60 that much.
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Oct 6, 2009 05:28
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1 minute of welding for 9 minutes rest isn't really that restricting for a novice/hobby welder.
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Oct 6, 2009 06:00
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oxbrain posted:1 minute of welding for 9 minutes rest isn't really that restricting for a novice/hobby welder.
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Oct 6, 2009 18:02
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This is really novice but – I purchased a cheap air compressor from Sears for $24.95, and the drat thing poo poo it self after three tire inflations. Somebody recommend me something that'll work for more than a day.
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Oct 18, 2009 23:03
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I threw away that same model welder and now use a Hobart off-brand I got from a trash pile. Its much better. I think I have 5 or 6 bags of Lincoln branded tips for it, 030 and 035 if anyone wants them.
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Oct 18, 2009 23:07
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Just Another XY posted:This is really novice but – I purchased a cheap air compressor from Sears for $24.95, and the drat thing poo poo it self after three tire inflations. Somebody recommend me something that'll work for more than a day. http://www.amazon.com/Viair-00073-Heavy-Portable-Compressor/dp/B0012WHBSO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1255912605&sr=1-1 Jared592 fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Oct 19, 2009 |
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Oct 19, 2009 01:30
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Just Another XY posted:This is really novice but – I purchased a cheap air compressor from Sears for $24.95, and the drat thing poo poo it self after three tire inflations. Somebody recommend me something that'll work for more than a day.
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Oct 19, 2009 11:39
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grover posted:Compressors don't like to run for long periods of time, that's why the professional ones always use air bottles.
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Oct 19, 2009 21:54
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InitialDave posted:Even then, I've destroyed a couple of small, tank-equipped compressors before biting the bullet and getting a reasonably sized one. Yup, I find with compressors I'd like to get the continuous duty cycle models which are pretty nice. The one on my H1's CTI system is a Thomas industries unit that will run continuously, but my model is a low CFM unit, not suitable for tools, but great for inflation. The viair compressor's are pretty nice. My friend has a air spring/bagged truck, and installed a air tank in the bed. The viair is mounted under the hood and can pressureize the tank. He has a air chuck installed behind the bumper so he can plugin and use his air tools. Speaking of vehicle mounted compressors, this was a nice tool we picked up: http://www.airjackusa.com/ We bounced a HMMWV almost a foot into the air when we hit it with compressed air, it's awesome  Local fire departments use them for getting heavy poo poo off people but we used it for off road use and it holds up pretty nicely.
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Oct 19, 2009 22:04
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anymore suggestions for locally available torque wrenches with reasonable accuracy? i may be doing some work on my suspension this weekend and i'm not sure i trust my 10$ 1/2" HF wrench (although it's awesome wheel lugs and crap).
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Oct 23, 2009 07:12
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What's your budget? Accuracy costs money. The HF wrench should be close enough to be within tolerances, you'll be spending $80-150 before you get much better. NAPA will sell you a wrench for ~$200 that will be plenty for any car related work.
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Oct 23, 2009 07:32
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