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SGT. Squeaks posted:I don't like traxxas as a company at all, but I'm very tempted to pickup one of these. Traxxas was great back in the day when they tried to be serious about off road racing. My brother had a TRX-1 which was their response to the RC10 of whatever flavor that year. Now they're just RTR but still very nice products I think. I had a Revo and loved it.
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Oct 10, 2009 19:03
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I have an HPI Micro RS4 I bought ready to run 2 years ago. It's a belt-driven 1/18th scale car that came with a "D-Box" which I guess is a little chip you run in-line with your steering/esc link and it bugs with your steering so you can drift easier. I absolutely took that out after the first time I used it. Long story short, I made lots of upgrades and switched to micro components, and the thing died on me. Lack of hobby funds meant I didn't want to buy more components. I shelved it for about a year and this weekend I decided to repair it. All is well, just needed to re-solder the wire connections inside the micro servo. Here's some pics and a list of extra components I added: front end pieces are all alloy except for the top a-arms, tie rods, and bumper alloy wheels HiTec HS-85MG Micro Servo vertically mounted stock HPI radio and receiver Novak Micro GT ESC 6cell NIMH 1450MAH 2/3a 370 Venom Fireball Micro Motor Penguin R/C P3500RS CF chassis   
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Oct 11, 2009 21:19
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One of my friends had a 1/18 (I think it was an XRay) tourer with brushless, it was an insane little thing, he used to harass 1/10 tourers with it. I don't think he has it anymore.
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Oct 11, 2009 22:52
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I have a 2 or 3 Micro's still, one is set up for drifting, with a D-Box, another is mostly built with the Exotek full pan car suspension, I think it has drag links even, just to make it harder to tune :P Fun little things, too bad they didn't take off as well as they could have, it took a while for a few other companies to make 1/18th and 1/16th buggies and trucks, etc. It was funny when HPI released the Stratus body for it, that's when a few of the serious TC racers picked one up just to have a smaller version of their car with full race paint job.
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Oct 11, 2009 23:22
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Someone wanna explain the D-Box thing in greater detail?
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Oct 11, 2009 23:37
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Ziploc posted:Someone wanna explain the D-Box thing in greater detail? http://www.hpieurope.com/tv13/?vidID=78 <-- that's me doing a cheesy announcer voice-over Basically it's a gyro (yaw control, if you're familiar with WRC cars or Gran Turismo games) for the car - it can be set up to keep the car steering neutral through corners (racing), or for extra oversteer (drifting).
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Oct 11, 2009 23:52
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The club here races Pro10 - that is, 1/10 "unlimited" pan cars. I think that's my next purchase. I was having a hell of a time deciding on a car, as there are a lot of choices, but then I stumbled across the Stranahan suspension conversions for the CRC Gen-X 10. They make a 3-link rear and parallel A-arm, damped front end (pan cars are traditionally just tiny springs with friction damping up front). The best part is that you can piece it together at the LHS except for a couple of custom machined bits. Plus, the CRC car seems to be the only reasonably priced option that is easy to make 235mm track width.   The front end looks a little bodged together, but I'm pretty excited about the three-link rear. It works like a full-size setup, as in a Trans Am car. Normally that stuff would be way overkill, but the Pro10 cars are very fast (nitro speeds) running on relatively rough surfaces. Super cool. And I can take advantage of the high Canadian dollar right now too - I almost feel obligated to buy this stuff 
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Oct 15, 2009 02:53
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A couple of weeks ago we had our last on-road race (Permanently). I brought out the 1/8TH Inferno GT (My favorite car). Right before the first qualifier I went to fill up my fuel bottle as every Nitro racer does. As I squeezed the fuel bottle the metal tube loudly popped off the bottle and fell into the fuel jug. I couldn't believe it! In years of racing I have never had this problem. I had to take the body off and pour the gas into the tank each time. It sure made pit stops a huge pain. Broken parts? I can deal with that. Left something at home? It happens. But the fuel bottle ejecting itself into the jug? WTF!?! Any one else have unexpected ridiculous problems happen to them on race day?
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Oct 18, 2009 06:30
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SGT. Squeaks posted:Any one else have unexpected ridiculous problems happen to them on race day? My very first race, ever, I forgot my transmitter. Had to drive all the way back home and get it. Kind of embarassing. Possibly the best ever, though, from my RC Memoirs page on my website (the race was a NORRCA Nats at Western RC in Vegas, inside the old junkyard off the 15, the Thad mentioned in the story tests cars at HPI USA): I'm pretty sure I was in the lowest main, but I forget. I had a snazzy body painted just for the weekend and I was ready to go. I'd loosened the upper deck of my Pro 2 to take out any tweak, I had a snazzy body and I was ready to go. Marshalling my race on the front straight was Masami Hirosaka, the winningest driver in all of RC history. He would marshall the lower mains just to relax and take his mind off his upcoming A-Main races. The guy has been winning WORLD championships since 1997 and can drive a stick radio with his FEET, so he's really really good. Yokomo would fly him out to the NORRCA Nats to just waste money and because he usually had a really good chance to win. Also marshalling on the front straight was Dan Tanis, owner of Ripon RC Speedway, where the Reedy Touring Car Race of Champions had been held the past couple of years. I had major respect for this guy, too, because he knew how to handle a big race event and make it good. The guy used radios to communicate with his timing and scoring team, he had food, restrooms, all kinds of great stuff. Just a class act every time we went up there. Anyway, we get on the starting line and I realized I hadn't tightened my upper deck screws down. I yell at Bill (then-HPI teammate) to grab a screwdriver and screw my screws down tight. This involves him running to the pit, getting a screwdriver, taking the body off, etc. He does that and I've still got time, no sweat. The tone goes off to start the race and i shoot off the line, heading for the first turn. Well, my tires decided that since they weren't glued onto the rims they would roll past my car and bounce over the PVC pipes that made up the track barriers. My car slid off, completely out of control. I watched my car grind to a halt, Dan picked up my car and Masami picked up my tires and inserts and give them to Dan. Now, according to Thad, I put the tires and inserts back on the wheels before setting my car down on my pit table and walking away. I remember Thad saying "what happened" because something ALWAYS happened to my car, and when he couldn't find anything outwardly wrong with my car (like crash damage) he spotted the damaged edges on the wheels and lifted up a non-glued tire from the wheel. hen I got the Look of Thad "I do not want to laugh so I'll look like I'm eating a salty lemon. Good times. tl;dr I didn't glue the tires on my wheels for my main race at a NORRCA Nats once, and Masami picked up my tires and inserts off the track.
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Oct 18, 2009 22:33
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I haven't raced long enough to have anything weird happen to me. Why is your track closing? I've got my 12th scale car ready to go for next week (more or less). And I bought a new car! A CRC Gen-X 10, to convert to the Stranahan 3-link. I got it used from another club member, pretty good deal. I talked to John Stranahan last week, who seems like a good guy and very knowledgable, and ordered the rearend kit. The hub extensions on it now were machined by the PO, and he says they work well. I'm skeptical as they are pretty heavy (not as heavy as they look, though) so increase rotating mass and unsprung weight pretty significantly. I'm not sure what I'm going to use for a speed control - I've heard rumors about a new Swedish ESC that's really eating up everything out there. Anyone familiar with the Nosram Pearl/LRP SXX? Are they comparable to the Tekin RS (turbo, advanced timing, etc)? Just a couple of things left to do on the 12th car, I have to mount the transponder and bumper and paint a body. Then it's ready to race next week.   Packaging all the wires and poo poo in the 12th scale car was a real pain so it's not as neat as it should be. 51 tooth pinion, 78 tooth spur!
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Oct 18, 2009 23:06
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Is that the John Stranahan that posts overly complicated testing results on RCTech.com forums? I had no idea he made parts and things. And those rear hubs... 
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Oct 18, 2009 23:20
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krushgroove posted:Is that the John Stranahan that posts overly complicated testing results on RCTech.com forums? I had no idea he made parts and things. Yeah, that's the guy, although his actual setups aren't nearly as complicated as other guys' for Pro10 stuff. Take a look at the RC Devil car for instance, with pushrod actuated laydown shocks and so on. The hubs are ugly but identical in principle to the actual CRC pieces (which I also have), being just machined slugs of aluminum. And as I said, not as heavy as they look.
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Oct 18, 2009 23:41
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jesus christ, that RC Devil machine has to be for the one guy at the track that has to have the most unique car in the club...Sometimes a good ol' Associated front end is all you need, eh? Parts and setups are easy to find then. Glad to see 1/10th on a resurgence, I remember the crashes used to be amazing. The best was when electronics would come flying out and they'd start smoking on the track. I used to know a guy that raced at SoCal RC, he cobbled together the front/rear ends of various cars to make his own Frankenstein creations, and he could drive them to decent results but of course he couldn't use anyone else's setup ideas or anything.
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Oct 18, 2009 23:46
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Not to mention the RC Devil car is around $800. 1/10 might be on the upswing, but we run what might be the only Pro10 class in North America - WGT is far more popular everywhere else. The racing is very likely better in WGT but the WFO nature of Pro10 appeals to me a great deal. WGTs are around the same speed as touring stock, while Pro10s are as fast or faster than nitro touring. Here's another guy who's a tinkerer - http://home.scarlet.be/~dq312531/Q10_Frameset.html
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Oct 19, 2009 03:58
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krushgroove posted:My very first race, ever, I forgot my transmitter. Had to drive all the way back home and get it. Kind of embarassing.  There is an optional removable shelf which is pretty slick, so it can cart around two sedans too. (More info can be found HERE Mine is on the duty currently housing my short course truck. Check it out:  What's THAT?  bickety bam - mother bitches Since I am not as cool as Blowdog and make threads about my new awesome Porsche, I will continue to wag the cool new toys that I seem to buy on a regular basis. For what it is worth, here is the run down on the car:
I wish I could tell you how it runs on the track, but I will be leaving tomorrow morning for Chicago to go to iHobby and won't be back until Sunday. I am trying to see what is harder to leave, my wife or my Blitz. It is major bad rear end. If you guys have any questions about it, just ask and I should be able to answer them.
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Oct 21, 2009 22:39
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this thing handles! It is the best handling SCT I have yet to drive. The sealed gear differential "diffs" out much less than any other one out on the market. (I'm looking at you, [i]traxxas slash[/])
-ugly green. I also put a spektrum receiver and have a model programmed into my M11 for it. While I was at it, I put the Team Associated 1015 Digital servo in the steering. This thing is now in "giddy-up" mode and just hauls rear end. The tires have an awesome realistic howling sound on pavement and concrete. On pavement, the tires break traction, on concrete, it goes into a controllable wheelie. It pretty much has doubled the top speed of the truck. At full lock it will not flip. Like I said before, this truck is the best handling SCT that I have yet driven.
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Very cool  thought I recognized the tires in that second pic! I have a couple of Flux/Sidewinder systems, one of them will probably end up in a Blitz...unfortunately I now have to buy most of my kits (instead of just 'testing' them, bleah) but it should be worth the cash
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Oct 21, 2009 23:51
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What are the differences between a buggy, stadium truck, and monster truck? I assume buggies focus on speed and light weight, stadium trucks offer better handling, and monster trucks provide reliability and higher ground clearance? I want something to run in fields, where there may be lots of brush and grass, and I don't want to it constantly get stuck like my old Rustler used to. Should I go with a monster? edit: found what I'm going to buy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9cb8ipZgJs I lol'd when it turned into a submarine. This looks awesome. hayden. fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Oct 22, 2009 |
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Oct 22, 2009 00:04
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Buggies and stadium trucks will have trouble in grass. Depending on how thick the brush is, a monster truck may not work all that well. Got any pics of the place or similar places?
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Oct 22, 2009 00:12
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Somewhat Heroic- you lucky devil! I love me some HPI. I should have waited instead of building my SC10 that I only ran once.
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Oct 22, 2009 00:16
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SGT. Squeaks posted:Somewhat Heroic- you lucky devil! I love me some HPI. I should have waited instead of building my SC10 that I only ran once. I've been pretty tempted to get an SC10. Consider selling it? edit: I still want an RC10GT body too 
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Oct 22, 2009 00:17
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kuffs posted:I've been pretty tempted to get an SC10. Consider selling it? I'll have to think about that. I've been tempted to upgrade my Jammin X1 buggy to a Jammin X2. Maybe I should sell my sc10 to pay for that. Sorry about the body. I decided to go back into the games industry and I've been so busy on the job hunt I haven't been able to paint. I was getting burned out and losing my love of rc racing and decided to do it part-time instead. I recently moved to another house temporarily, and all my stuff is boxed up because I'm planning on moving out of state once I land a new games job. Once I get things figured out I'll be painting again (though part-time). I've got about 25 clear bodies waiting to be painted so I really need to get things going again before all those bodies are obsolete.
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Oct 22, 2009 00:56
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SGT. Squeaks posted:Sorry about the body. I decided to go back into the games industry and I've been so busy on the job hunt I haven't been able to paint. I was getting burned out and losing my love of rc racing and decided to do it part-time instead. I recently moved to another house temporarily, and all my stuff is boxed up because I'm planning on moving out of state once I land a new games job. Once I get things figured out I'll be painting again (though part-time). I've got about 25 clear bodies waiting to be painted so I really need to get things going again before all those bodies are obsolete. Best of luck finding a new job Also, I jumped on a pretty good deal for an SC10 just now. But I'm sure you'll have no trouble selling yours if you decided to. Word of advice: I'm pretty sure RC stuff goes for more money on eBay rather than rctech.net. I think I'm gonna drop a velineon system in it. Take-off parts sell for about $100 for the motor and esc. What kind of pinion should I be running? Can I expect decent runtime out of a 3300 Nimh pack?
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Oct 22, 2009 17:26
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Welp, just bought a Novak GTB SS with a Ballistic 10.5 for it off of eBay. And rctech seems to agree that 22/87 is the best combo with the SC10 and a 10.5. Other sources seem to say that 10mins is expected for 3300 packs. By the way, I picked up 3300mAh NiMh packs for like $30ea at Radio Shack. Seems pretty cheap compared to hobby store prices. I initially got them for my starter box, but we'll see how they do in this role. Anyone got a good idea for charge rates on these kinds of things? They aren't marked for any of that kind of information. I know my 1500mAh packs back in the day would charge with a 15-minute timer. That puts the charge rate at about 4A. Think I can safely stuff 10A into these packs? (Please excuse me on half of this. My last electric was an RC10 gold pan with lovely 1500 NiCd packs and a 15t Trinity speed gem about 10 years ago. I have no real knowledge of how things roll in these modern times.)
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Oct 23, 2009 19:52
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I know the feeling. Besides my Spec 18R the Sc10 is the first electric car I've ran in years. Its all nitro for me. When I picked up the parts to convert my sc10 I had about a dozen questions for the hobby guy. When I last raced electric, Nihm was brand new. Most guys still ran Nicd. And Lipo's? WTF are those? I'd like to know how that brushless setup runs. I'm running a 19T brushed, and like it. But someday I'll probably convert to Brushless.
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Oct 23, 2009 19:58
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Wow, that's what I get for only looking at Tower Hobbies. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...nnector-4200mAh 4200mAh Store-brand packs for $22.50? drat! But, seems to imply that cheap cells can't handle more than 4~5A.
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Oct 23, 2009 20:00
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SGT. Squeaks posted:I know the feeling. Besides my Spec 18R the Sc10 is the first electric car I've ran in years. Its all nitro for me. When I picked up the parts to convert my sc10 I had about a dozen questions for the hobby guy. When I last raced electric, Nihm was brand new. Most guys still ran Nicd. And Lipo's? WTF are those? Yeah, I remember RCCA did a special Clodzilla with dual brushless motors from airplanes back in the day. Nobody had even really considered stuffing one of those beasts in a car yet. (They were also hilariously expensive and not sanctioned by any race bodies.) Since I am just getting back into electric a bit, I decided I didn't want to deal with brushed. I was gonna get good, new technology right off the bat. Of course, I don't really have the money to blow on nice LiPos yet, so I'll just lurk the B/S/T forum and look for a good deal on used ones. A GTB and 10.5 is probably a little too nice for an SC10. Not like I need sensored smoothness or programmable profiles for bashing in my buddy's backyard track. But at $150, it's pretty much the same price as a NIB Velineon or Havoc system.
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Oct 23, 2009 20:09
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Oh hey, shout out to Duratrax customer service. They're sending me new alligator clips for my ICE charger, no questions asked.
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Oct 23, 2009 20:12
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So, rctech.net is gushing about Turnigy 5000mAh LiPo packs. http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/332730-turnigy-5000-20c-hardcase-lipo.html Around $20~30 from HobbyKing http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/lithium_polymer_battery_configuration.asp?cap=4&con=2 I'm buying two of the soft case 20C packs. I can buy 5 of those packs for the cost of a 'branded' pack. I think it's worth it.
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Oct 23, 2009 22:00
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I run Zippy/Rhino/Turnigy batteries in all of my aircraft and have had no problems yet. My hotliner draws just under 60 amps out of a three cell 3600 pack and it barely gets warm.
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Oct 24, 2009 01:44
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kuffs posted:By the way, I picked up 3300mAh NiMh packs for like $30ea at Radio Shack. Seems pretty cheap compared to hobby store prices. I initially got them for my starter box, but we'll see how they do in this role. Lipos are easily the battery type to go for these days. They don't have the reliability issues that NiCAD and NiMH cells have.
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Oct 24, 2009 06:14
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Ran my first indoor 12th scale race last night. Uh, holy poo poo it's difficult. They ran extended practice because it was the first race of the year. My first couple of laps the car was OK, except for my lack of driving skill. Then it started acting erratically, pulling left or right on acceleration, completely unpredictable. It turns out the only screws I hadn't touched on the car (I bought it used) came out. Those were the screws attaching the side links and center pivot - so no poo poo it was handling like a nightmare, as the only thing holding the pod on was the shock. I was also fighting my lack of flanged wheel bearings on the front. My order didn't show up in time so I had to try to rig something up to keep the front wheels on the car. I wasn't very successful, and a kind soul lent me some bearings for the night. Put it together and went to scale it - lipo cars can be 730 grams. Mine was like 860, because I had used weights to balance it. Even pulling the weights out only took it to 800, and tweaked it really badly because the pod is not designed for brushless motors. The balance is way off to the left, and to compound the issue my speedo and capacitor and so on were mounted on the left of the front of the car. Don't ask me why I did that. Lastly, my goddamn motor would not stay locked in place. It continually slid away from the spur - I don't think there's quite enough purchase on the screws, as the bulkhead is very thick. That caused 3 DNFs and a period of time off the track in my final qualifier. I still managed a bump from the D to C main, where the motor slid forward again. Anyway, I'm completely rearranging the electronics to try to balance the car. I really hope that untweaks the car, but the motor being so far off to the left may make it unfixable. Better luck next week, because I really need more time to concentrate on learning to drive instead of loving around with the car. edit: goddamn, the center pivot nuts were loose, which was impossible to see with a battery in. That's why it was so crappy all night. compressioncut fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Oct 25, 2009 |
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Oct 25, 2009 18:27
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kuffs posted:That puts the charge rate at about 4A. Think I can safely stuff 10A into these packs? jesus, 10A? if you're in the A-main and want to get massive punch for a couple of laps you might want to try 7 or 8 amps, 10 amps will just kill your pack quickly. If you're just playing 5 amps is fine, that's a decent balance of power/lifetime (balanced towards lifetime, probably), if you're racing try 6 amps but you'll get fewer good runs out of the pack. Pro drivers run their NiMH packs maybe 50 times before getting rid of them (soapbox on: please try to recycle your old batteries), but you're not a pro driver so don't worry about getting maximum punch from your pack.
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Oct 25, 2009 22:29
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I just got a used RC off ebay to screw around with and I need help identifying it. All I know is that it is a Traxxas and the esc is an XL1, the motor is Losi. What other identifying things should I look for. There is a sticker on the receiver and the bottom of the frame stamped b0131037. I think the receiver is model 2040. Click here for the full 700x525 image.  Click here for the full 700x525 image.  Click here for the full 700x525 image.  Click here for the full 700x525 image.  Click here for the full 700x525 image.
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Oct 25, 2009 23:12
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Looks like an oldish Rustler: http://www.traxxas.com/products/electric/rustler2006/gallery/3605rustler-3qrtr-chass.jpg any hobby shop in the world should have parts and knowledge about that sucker, if everything spins OK it's probably a great buy for bashing around and getting some good air
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Oct 25, 2009 23:20
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krushgroove posted:jesus, 10A? if you're in the A-main and want to get massive punch for a couple of laps you might want to try 7 or 8 amps, 10 amps will just kill your pack quickly. If you're just playing 5 amps is fine, that's a decent balance of power/lifetime (balanced towards lifetime, probably), if you're racing try 6 amps but you'll get fewer good runs out of the pack. Pro drivers run their NiMH packs maybe 50 times before getting rid of them (soapbox on: please try to recycle your old batteries), but you're not a pro driver so don't worry about getting maximum punch from your pack. Cool, that's the kind of info I was looking for.
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Oct 25, 2009 23:43
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Thanks for the tip, waiting on a charger to get here so I can check out the electronics. Hopefully everything is running decent.
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Oct 25, 2009 23:47
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Ran my Tamiya 415 on the weekend to test a new 5000 milliamp Lipo pack. The car was slow as poo poo, which had me puzzled. Wondering if the Lipo pack had an issue with my speedy, I grabbed my other Lipo pack, but still with the same slow results. Took the car home and put the motor on the dyno. It is one of the silver can cheapie motors that you can not change the brushes on. Previous times when I ran the motor, it always hit around 19500 rpm, which is pretty good for a silver can. However now it only wanted to run at 17k rpm. After giving it a spray out with motor spray and giving the comm a quick clean, it dropped down to 16k. In the bin it went.
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Oct 26, 2009 01:59
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it would make a good slave motor for breaking in or truing other brushed motors, assuming you have any of those...otherwise, yeah, chuck it
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Oct 26, 2009 02:07
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krushgroove posted:it would make a good slave motor for breaking in or truing other brushed motors, assuming you have any of those...otherwise, yeah, chuck it
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Oct 26, 2009 02:34
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gently caress, I have a problem. This SC10 is awesome and electric cars are amazing now. I have this 10.5 geared low so that I don't outrun my friends with 13.5's and the runtime is great. I only burned through about 2/3's of a 3300 pack before I got bored of doing laps in the street. Didn't time it, but I was out there for a while. That was last night. I've already posted in the local indoor racing thread to see what's up. I'm gonna see about stuffing some FT shocks from a spare parts RC10GT stash on it. If only Associated hadn't gone through about 3 different shock cartridge designs I could figure out if either of my rebuild kits will work on them. So, this truck came with 12mm hex conversion kit for running Slash tires and rims. Previous owner had put Pro-line Epic Bead-loc rims on it with stadium truck tires mounted on it. Partial ribbed in front, holeshots in the rear. First off, it looks stupid. The tires and rims don't even fit under the body like they should. Short Course trucks are about scale looks. Second, why would you put stadium truck tires on this thing? Just buy a loving T4! And last of all, the bead-locs weigh about a hundred million pounds. Rotating mass heyoooooooooooooo. I really like the captive hinge pin design on the T4/B4/SC10. Sooo much nicer than dealing with e-clips.
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Oct 29, 2009 19:08
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