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I swapped out hatch shocks on my starions, and got all the electronics that run off them working right (third tail light, rear wipers) I was able to repair (with some junkyard parts) something that has been bothering me for 15 years, sadly the 83 still doenst have working hatch shocks. I'll just be happy with my minor victory.
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Oct 20, 2009 02:06
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ExecuDork posted:Yeah, but it's noisy at 3, so I need to take it apart and maybe clean the fan anyways. If this fix doesn't work, I'll probably just live with it. Blower motor might need new brushes if its noisy. Clean the squirrel cage first and see if its quieter. Sometimes leaves/dead-mice get in through the cowl intake and rattle around inside.
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Oct 20, 2009 02:10
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Found more of the magical PO's wiring fixes on my truck. On a HMMWV/Hood there's 2 little compartments molded into the fiberglass hood to keep dirt and mud out of the wiring for the headlights, markers and signal lights. It's closed off by 2 metal shields. I'm trying to track down a small grounding problem with my exterior lighting system, since it's an aluminum body vehicle, all the ground points are linked at certain points, such as the lights. I popped open the shields and took a look at the wiring harneses.. and what do I see? Every. Single. loving. Wire. Cut and spliced.... Badly. On the phone now with AM General to order a new harness.. $140  I'm not touching that rats nest of wiring.
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Oct 20, 2009 19:36
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Swapped out the OEM corner lights on my car for some more modern looking clears (plus one of the old ones had a crack). Old fixtures  New fixtures (much brighter and "cleaner" light output) 
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Oct 20, 2009 20:32
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Checked and re-checked every ground on the escort trying to figure out why it wouldn't start. On a lark I check the battery cables and swapped out the positive from my parts car and she started right up. Now to do tie-rods and tires and the winter car is ready!
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Oct 20, 2009 22:36
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Well, the Volvo dealership couldn't (and cannot) get me the right part to fix my broken evap breather tube, so I took off the fuel rail and intake manifold, and then it got dark. So, today was a failure. I'll be fixing the tube myself (yay random hose that fits plus two hose clamps) and it will be working tomorrow or else.
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Oct 21, 2009 00:49
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DreamOn13 posted:Bought an exhaust for it so it no longer deafens me, rattles, or smacks up against some suspension bracing underneath. Yay stock style ebay catback for $145 shipped. Installed said exhaust using my new impact wrench and compressor. Only had to remove a little suspension brace but I wish there were more than 6 bolts to spin off at lightning speed. I'm never working on my car without an impact again.  gently caress that. The car now however sounds as quiet as a camry, which is nice since it doesn't rattle or bang up against poo poo anymore but it doesn't have the deeper sound of running with a rusted out muffler. One guy asked me if I swapped a rotary into it at a car meet because of it. 
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Oct 21, 2009 02:30
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DreamOn13 posted:I'm never working on my car without an impact again. Oh, well, then you had better get used to tapping threads and pulling snapped studs.
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Oct 21, 2009 02:37
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Changed the oil, cleaned the MAF, IAC valve, and the upper throttle body, and topped off the headlight fluid so my highbeams work again. Overall productive day, but the fucks at Autozone couldn't tell me what kind of headlight fluid to buy. I had to guess.
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Oct 21, 2009 03:42
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When my friend Brad helped me replace the transmission and clutch in my 1992 Accord DX we used the speed sensor from the "new" transmission. This didn't work out. So last night we swapped the sensor from the old transmission onto the new one. Now my speedometer and cruise control work and the check engine light is gone. I also replaced the valve cover gasket and the associated plug well gaskets. It had been leaking pretty bad onto the exhaust manifold heat shield and got pretty smelly.
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Oct 21, 2009 15:41
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KelvereseAysen posted:headlight fluid to buy. I had to guess. synthetic, duh. The stuff made from melted sunbeams and with a 90% photon density.
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Oct 21, 2009 15:46
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CornHolio posted:synthetic, duh. The stuff made from melted sunbeams and with a 90% photon density. Synthetic is fine, but on older headlights you want to go with conventional.
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Oct 21, 2009 15:54
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I use strictly Amsoil headlight fluid for increase change intervals and the UOA from Black Stone Labs shows less plastic polymers and increased viscosity.
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Oct 21, 2009 16:23
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Well, I finished fixing the Volvo and put it back together, and then fixed the stupid vacuum leak I had on startup. Now the wife can be less mad at me.
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Oct 22, 2009 00:19
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I can never remember if I'm supposed to check my headlight fluid levels when the lights are flipped up or not. The dipsticks are tucked away in an awkward position on these older Hondas. I always get weird readings, is it time for a full system flush? Edit: I almost forgot - never put taillight fluid in your headlights! You drive through an orange fog and smoke comes out of the turn signals. Learned that one the hard way... 
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Oct 22, 2009 02:17
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KelvereseAysen posted:Changed the oil, cleaned the MAF, IAC valve, and the upper throttle body, and topped off the headlight fluid so my highbeams work again. Hahaha, lookit the n00b who forgot to put Joule Dispersion modifier in his headlight fluid before filling it up. ALWAYS add JDM to cars equipt with Variable-Filament Lamps (also known as 'high beams')
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Oct 22, 2009 04:06
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Elviscat posted:Hahaha, lookit the n00b who forgot to put Joule Dispersion modifier in his headlight fluid before filling it up. ALWAYS add JDM to cars equipt with Variable-Filament Lamps (also known as 'high beams') Eh, they had fluid, it was just barely below the MIN mark, so the safety cutoff wouldn't allow the high beams to activate. I doubt the small amount I had to add will in any way dilute the levels of JDM already present to such an extent as to present a capacitance implosion hazard.
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Oct 22, 2009 04:58
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Installed rear shock tower reinforcement plates as PM so I don't get the nasty shock tower split encountered by some unfortunate owners. Also checked cabin filters - yep, disgusting. As I set about ordering new filters, I started tacking on stuff that I will be replacing for my upcoming radiator swap. My radiator began pissing from the drivers' side tank two days ago. So far, $300 has already been spent on boring not-fun parts, and I haven't even gotten a radiator yet. I also decided to change my tranny fluid - according to BMW it is "lifetime" fluid, and the transmission is "not serviceable". However, some folks have found a way to do it  and the stuff they have found has been of the "black, sludgy, and stinky" variety. So, I figured it was time. In the process of scraping together the parts for this, I found out that my transmission fluid is apparently made from the blood of virgin unicorns and tears of the gods, suspended in a liquid platinum base. It's $160 for a 5L jug. On the table for this weekend, I have to install a brake caliper bolt in my SVX and track down a bad ground in my Prelude. But it's supposed to be raining all weekend, so I'll probably just sit inside and  at the weather instead.
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Oct 22, 2009 05:00
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Took the rear discs off to get them resurfaced tomorrow. I'm tired of the pulsing. It's driving me mad.
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Oct 22, 2009 05:12
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Wiring work in preperation to remove the canopy and drawers system, and new wiper arms go on today!
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Oct 22, 2009 05:15
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Nice 7, I have an 8 myself. I recently replaced plugs, wires, and coils after serious idling issues. After that I still had a CEL so I took it in to the dealer and had a brand new 13B Renesis put in under warranty after a slight decompression issue was uncovered. So far I'm having fun breaking it, zoom zoom 9k RPMs. All together I can't complain, 45k miles and a new engine lol. On a side note i restored the headlight covers and trim yesterday. Mother's Back to Black did wonders on my 2004 faded trim.
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Oct 24, 2009 05:15
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Swapped to new winter tires and rims. Torqued the front drivers side and realized the wheel could no longer freely turn. Put my summers back on and drove in a light dusting of snow. gently caress Canadian Tire and gently caress me for forgetting to check the offsets.
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Oct 24, 2009 21:39
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ElehemEare posted:gently caress Canadian Tire Agreed, the hangers I put on in the first post stretched so now it's hanging cockeyed again
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Oct 24, 2009 22:19
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MC Hawking fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Jun 15, 2014 |
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Oct 24, 2009 22:54
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Pulled out the blower motor to remove the dead vegetation and a bit of dust. Replaced the blower's resistor.  Old & Busted, New Hotness. Now the fan blows at all 4 speeds, but it's still a bit buzzy. Still, I'd been meaning to do this for a couple of weeks, and I think this was successful.  All this happened in an awkward position from the passenger seat. To get into said awkward position I had to move the car halfway out into the alley, which annoyed several of my neighbours. Go the other way if you don't want to squeeze past! The alley's only about 40m long, it's not like you have to go far out of your way. Quit honking at me, old-man-in-Caliber 
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Oct 24, 2009 23:15
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Got 4 brand spanking new tires at Costco. $70 off and free rotations and balancing for the life of the tires.  It drives like a whole new Jeep!Replaced the rear glass support lifts and now I can hardly close the thing, the new ones are so strong. 
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Oct 25, 2009 00:53
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Finally pulled out my drivers' seat and replaced my seat / mirror computer. Somehow the logic board got fried, causing the controls to be reversed. But, I hit a snag when the drat used part I got turned out to have a bad relay board. So, I made a frankencomputer by dismantling both modules and combining them into one fully working unit, and installed that. Now my seats and mirrors work properly again.  I didn't get any of the other crap done that I wanted to do, but hey.
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Oct 25, 2009 23:56
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Set up for the rainy season. Replaced all the wiper blades, applied Rain-X wax to all the exterior glass. Cleaned interior glass and applied antifog. Topped off the wiper fluid reservoir and checked all engine fluids and tire pressures. Ran a thin bead of clear silicone to the top of the taillight housings to keep water out.
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Oct 26, 2009 00:59
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replaced the fuel pump in my 2002 neon, changed the front brake pads and rotated the tires...got some werid vibration coming from the left front tire between 60 and 70 mph...tires are balanced.
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Oct 26, 2009 01:25
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ExecuDork posted:
Brushes are on their way out. Autozone sells a suitable replacement for a lot less than Honda wants, and it's thinner so its easier to get in/out. I still have to unbolt the whole blower box from the firewall to change mine though... The price of having A/C.
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Oct 26, 2009 01:31
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Sponge! posted:Brushes are on their way out. Autozone sells a suitable replacement for a lot less than Honda wants, and it's thinner so its easier to get in/out. I still have to unbolt the whole blower box from the firewall to change mine though... The price of having A/C. Ungh. I didn't actually manage to remove the blower box. I got everything disconnected, but there's no room to "lower from the vehicle" like the service manual and the Haynes manual both say. I yanked and twisted that thing all over before giving up and dropping the motor assembly out of the bottom. The resistor is mounted on top and close to the passenger compartment, which is the only thing that allowed me to swap it out. The only way I could see to get the whole blower box out would be to first remove the heater core, which requires draining and disconnecting the coolant system. Which I suspect requires removing large objects from the engine bay, first. Where are these brushes? If they're in the motor assembly (the thing I pictured), I can get to them. If they're buried in the white plastic housing that the motor fits into from underneath, there's no way. Can these things be accessed from above, by removing the dashboard?
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Oct 26, 2009 05:42
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I bought my snow tires way back in the summer, when Canadian Tire was selling Nordics for practically half off. I got to install them, as well as install snow tires for three other vehicles "while I had the jack out." My arms are pretty tired now after removing and fastening 20 wheels and 80 lugnuts with a 24" breaker bar in a few hours. New respect for tire shop guys. It's my first time on snow tires, hoping it will be awesome. 
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Oct 26, 2009 05:47
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ExecuDork posted:Ungh. I didn't actually manage to remove the blower box. I got everything disconnected, but there's no room to "lower from the vehicle" like the service manual and the Haynes manual both say. I yanked and twisted that thing all over before giving up and dropping the motor assembly out of the bottom. The resistor is mounted on top and close to the passenger compartment, which is the only thing that allowed me to swap it out. The only way I could see to get the whole blower box out would be to first remove the heater core, which requires draining and disconnecting the coolant system. Which I suspect requires removing large objects from the engine bay, first. No, I'm saying I have to remove the blower box from the firewall to even drop the motor out. You're lucky you can drop yours out in-situ... The brushes are in the heavy part under the spindle that you had out. You can't replace the brushes, the whole motor goes. You, also, uh, shouldn't have had to do anything other than take the glovebox out to swap the blower resistor. That's a 10mm and a 14mm socket and a No.2 Philips. No headstands necessary. edit: Ahh, I re-read your post. You do it the same way. Unbolt the blower box from the firewall, and lift the whole thing up just enough to sneak the blower itself out the bottom. So you're not lucky. You feel my pain. "Factory manual" says to remove the AC evaporator. Those without AC just unbolt a duct and then the whole thing can be moved 4" to the left and drops right out. We with AC don't have those 4 inches. Also, I had to unbolt the impeller from the motor to remove it. You have enough room the whole shebang drops out the bottom. I put the nut back on with a pair of 8" long needlenose through the grillework... 2nd edit: That little black hose goes from the blower box to the base of the motor. Make drat sure thats always hooked up. Thats what cools the armature and also blows the bits of worn off brush out of the mix. If its not there it'll basically grind itself up in a few months from grit and heat. They have a nasty habit of getting unhooked if you transport kids with long legs and a penchant for kicking the underside of the glove-box area a lot. Sponge! fucked around with this message at 06:27 on Oct 26, 2009 |
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Oct 26, 2009 06:20
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Sponge! posted:No, I'm saying I have to remove the blower box from the firewall to even drop the motor out. You're lucky you can drop yours out in-situ... The brushes are in the heavy part under the spindle that you had out. You can't replace the brushes, the whole motor goes. Sponge! posted:You do it the same way. Unbolt the blower box from the firewall, and lift the whole thing up just enough to sneak the blower itself out the bottom. So you're not lucky. You feel my pain. "Factory manual" says to remove the AC evaporator. Those without AC just unbolt a duct and then the whole thing can be moved 4" to the left and drops right out. We with AC don't have those 4 inches. I was wondering why the picture in the manual of a simple, rectangular plastic duct was so far off of the giant black box I encountered. That would be the AC evaporator, and I have no desire to gently caress with it. 4 inches would have made 4 miles of difference. Sponge! posted:Also, I had to unbolt the impeller from the motor to remove it. You have enough room the whole shebang drops out the bottom. I put the nut back on with a pair of 8" long needlenose through the grillework...  Sponge! posted:2nd edit: That little black hose goes from the blower box to the base of the motor. Make drat sure thats always hooked up. Thats what cools the armature and also blows the bits of worn off brush out of the mix. If its not there it'll basically grind itself up in a few months from grit and heat. They have a nasty habit of getting unhooked if you transport kids with long legs and a penchant for kicking the underside of the glove-box area a lot.
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Oct 27, 2009 02:38
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just got my front struts replaced, oil changed, and wheels balanced so i flew to school @ about 90 the whole way since i leave before the sun rises and the whole ride was smooth as glass in comparison to how it was before so nice
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Oct 27, 2009 02:40
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I've spent the last two days stripping interior parts out of my 85 300zx. Tomorrow I'm gonna strip even more out of it. Also gonna have to re-upholster and reinstall the headliner and all the interior trim pieces in the 86 300zx I just picked up today. I'll post some photos in the Z thread tomorrow. Luckily these cars come apart with a screwdriver and a couple of sockets.
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Oct 27, 2009 02:42
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Replaced the Forge 007P diverter valve in my TT with an AWE DV1. The Forge uses a piston, while the AWE has a diaphragm like the original DV in the car. The OEM diaphragms tear under higher boost (happened to me after the car was chipped in 2006), but AWE claims theirs is good to 750 hp on the 1.8T. This is a win-win due to the quicker action of the diaphragm and no need for maintenance, unlike the piston DV which requires lubing every so often. The AWE valve has shorter nozzles (for lack of a better term) than the Forge, which makes me a bit nervous. Hope I tightened it up sufficiently. We'll see at Barber this weekend, I guess.  
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Oct 27, 2009 23:43
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Topped off the power steering reservoir and replaced the air filter on my '81 Volvo 245, since the PS fluid was almost empty and the old air filter was totally clogged. The steering seems to work about the same, but the throttle response is a lot better with the new air filter, and the idle also improved. Cars like to breathe too, apparently.
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Oct 28, 2009 00:18
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DogDodger posted:Replaced the Forge 007P diverter valve in my TT with an AWE DV1. The Forge uses a piston, while the AWE has a diaphragm like the original DV in the car. The OEM diaphragms tear under higher boost (happened to me after the car was chipped in 2006), but AWE claims theirs is good to 750 hp on the 1.8T. This is a win-win due to the quicker action of the diaphragm and no need for maintenance, unlike the piston DV which requires lubing every so often. If you feel like parting with your Forge, I converted my Mazda to run on those euro Bosch units so a Forge is drop in.
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Oct 28, 2009 01:48
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Replaced the radiator in my poor old 93 Civic, hopefully the new one wont disintigrate. I did it in the carpark at work too about 10 minutes after it arrived.
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Oct 28, 2009 03:47
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