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Okay, so you can use Future Floor to make your own washes, but what can I make for my own gloss and dullcote through an airbush? Anyone know?
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Oct 29, 2009 00:10
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crime fighting hog posted:Okay, so you can use Future Floor to make your own washes, but what can I make for my own gloss and dullcote through an airbush? Anyone know? Future, thinned a little with water, is a great gloss coat, and Tamiya makes a product called Flat Base that you can mix with future for a flat finish.
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Oct 29, 2009 00:21
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Ashcans posted:I think that you're going to be challenged in that most of the SOB figures have your blue areas covered (chestplate and upper arms). It makes your template a little misleading. You might want to consider expanding the blue areas to make up for how most of the models are posed. Yeah, I think you're probably right. I'll put some on the pack on this one and try another one tonight with bluetit. Mix it up a bit in the squad. Edit: Fixed the gold, trying PV's method, cleaned things up a bit. 
Fix fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Oct 29, 2009 |
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Oct 29, 2009 01:04
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oh my god my series 7 accidentally brushed up into some superglue
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Oct 29, 2009 06:33
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So what's the best way to switch colours when drybrushing? I've been drybrushing blue, and am done with that and switching to yellow, using the same brush. However, whenever I try to use the yellow, it starts off yellow but then turns green while I'm still getting rid of the excess paint. I've done this 5 or so times now, and it's still coming out the same shade of green, no matter how much I wash the brush or how much yellow I put in. Should I wait for the brush to completely dry out and/or use a different brush for the time being? Is there something else I'm missing here?
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Oct 29, 2009 07:57
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bobvonunheil posted:So what's the best way to switch colours when drybrushing? Best solution is to use another brush until that one fully dries out.
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Oct 29, 2009 09:15
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Theres a stuff called The Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver, it's some special kind soap and will easily get any paint out. I could go into a full-blown advertising rant about how amazing this stuff is, even if your brush is totally crusted with paint you cant get it out with a bit of work.
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Oct 29, 2009 10:27
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Bistromatic posted:Theres a stuff called The Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver, it's some special kind soap and will easily get any paint out. I could go into a full-blown advertising rant about how amazing this stuff is, even if your brush is totally crusted with paint you cant get it out with a bit of work.
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Oct 29, 2009 13:53
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Fix posted:Yeah, I think you're probably right. I'll put some on the pack on this one and try another one tonight with bluetit. Mix it up a bit in the squad. Bistromatic posted:Theres a stuff called The Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver, it's some special kind soap and will easily get any paint out. I could go into a full-blown advertising rant about how amazing this stuff is, even if your brush is totally crusted with paint you cant get it out with a bit of work.
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Oct 29, 2009 14:45
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wait you don't wash out your drybrush
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Oct 29, 2009 14:53
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landis posted:I can vouch for how amazing this stuff is. It cuts through acrylics, tempura, and even oils; making your brush like new (the advertisement isn't a lie). I think you mean tempra. Unless you have been using your brushes for deep frying.
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Oct 29, 2009 14:54
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!amicable posted:I think you mean tempra. Unless you have been using your brushes for deep frying. He's a goon, alright!
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Oct 29, 2009 15:03
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!amicable posted:I think you mean tempra. Unless you have been using your brushes for deep frying.
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Oct 29, 2009 16:01
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MasterSlowPoke posted:oh my god my series 7 accidentally brushed up into some superglue lay it to rest in a little coffin made of chopped up sprues
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Oct 29, 2009 16:31
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landis posted:Actually, I meant tempera! I haven't used my brushes for deep frying in like, years, odd slip that one. loving spelling.
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Oct 29, 2009 18:12
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I've kitbashed an Orc blood bowl team out of 40k Nobz and Boyz and a couple of Black Orc pieces, and they look pretty sweet... except for where I've disarmed them (by cutting the weapons away). I've tried to do it as smoothly as possible but it still looks pretty scrappy and horrid. I suspect there isn't really a solution other than drilling a bit away and trying to resculpt the hand shapes, which I don't think I'm willing or able to do (I have no experience at all with green stuff). What do you suggest? v Oh, I don't have my camera with me so I'll ask again later! 
Squibsy fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Oct 29, 2009 |
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Oct 29, 2009 18:50
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photos would help
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Oct 29, 2009 18:54
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ineptmule posted:I've kitbashed an Orc blood bowl team out of 40k Nobz and Boyz and a couple of Black Orc pieces, and they look pretty sweet... except for where I've disarmed them (by cutting the weapons away). I've tried to do it as smoothly as possible but it still looks pretty scrappy and horrid. I suspect there isn't really a solution other than drilling a bit away and trying to resculpt the hand shapes, which I don't think I'm willing or able to do (I have no experience at all with green stuff). What do you suggest? Use a large drill bit and make a shallow cone in the fist. Use a utility knife to roughly cut the cone with a few notches to break up the symmetry of it. I'm not explaining it overly well, but I think you get the idea. I made my Orc team from a box of boyz. Also add "brass knuckles" to your players fists by taking chainsword guards and gluing them in place to hide de-weaponized hands. Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Oct 29, 2009 |
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Oct 29, 2009 19:28
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Ashcans posted:I like your scheme, and I think its coming in pretty nicely. Have you considered lining the shoulders in blue instead of grey at the edges? I think it might pull together the greaves nicely. Another excellent suggestion. I will try that on tonight's model. I actually pulled a bit of blue up the middle of that first one in the space of corset just between the tits and above the gun, which actually looks to have dragged the blue in from the tiny bits of upper arm that you can see and is closer to the pattern I started with. With all these kind of minor differences, I'm less worried about getting the exact same model over and over again in this army. And here I thought I was going to have to lamely fake it through just hair color. Still pretty rough at painting faces though. I think I got lucky on that first one. How I wish they'd made more of these with their cool helmets.
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Oct 29, 2009 20:51
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One last question about stripping-- when people say to soak in Simple Green, is that diluted to package instructions, or is it the concentrate?
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Oct 30, 2009 18:06
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Concentrated
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Oct 30, 2009 18:39
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Oi PV, when you're doing your gold, are you pooling the wash over the mithril? I'm having a hell of a time getting enough on there to color it in the narrow areas, but never seem to have enough on the brush to actually color anything unless it's quite wet.
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Oct 30, 2009 18:48
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Yeah you kind of have to slather it on. Small areas tend to take 2 coats, although recently ive been doing 3 total washes, 2 sepia and then one devlan, which is just on the recesses and separation lines
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Oct 30, 2009 18:51
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Yeah, that's what I ended up doing. Thanks! Edit:  Last one of these I'll post for a while, promise. Sorry for the spamming. The blue trim on the armor is kinda meh. It feels like it needs a trim of its own, separating from the white. Too light as it is. Anyone got tips for using the old inks? I tried some of the blue and... well... that's a fair bit different from using Asurmen Blue, ain't it? Fix fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Oct 30, 2009 |
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Oct 30, 2009 20:51
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I also realized a while ago that if you use washes, lay the model on its back while it dries, it really helps even out the shading
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Oct 30, 2009 20:54
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Woo woo! Now I finally have a squad: Guess I'll try to do a chaplain next since I don't want to gently caress up my dreadnought yet.
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Oct 30, 2009 20:58
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Those are great, whats the basing going to look like? Id highly suggest something with at least a touch of green in it
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Oct 30, 2009 21:02
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Angryboot posted:Woo woo! Now I finally have a squad: I'm fairly sure these are the best Black Templars I've ever seen, the shading looks great.
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Oct 30, 2009 21:04
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Angryboot posted:Woo woo! Now I finally have a squad: Holy poo poo that's astounding.
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Oct 30, 2009 21:22
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Angryboot posted:Woo woo! Now I finally have a squad: I'm thoroughly impressed, normally I see the black primer + drybrush grey, but you went all out sir. 
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Oct 30, 2009 21:27
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Zarkov Cortez posted:I know this is a bit of an old post to respond to but I need this model so bad so I can paint it up for my better half, she loves her fairies and things and whatnot and I think she'd love it  But godamn, 30 euros including postage? gently caress that noise 
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Oct 30, 2009 23:06
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enri posted:I know this is a bit of an old post to respond to but I need this model so bad so I can paint it up for my better half, she loves her fairies and things and whatnot and I think she'd love it Guess you don't love her 30E worth.
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Oct 30, 2009 23:13
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enri posted:I know this is a bit of an old post to respond to but I need this model so bad so I can paint it up for my better half, she loves her fairies and things and whatnot and I think she'd love it Keep in mind those are 1/35 scale (54mm) Zarkov Cortez fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Oct 30, 2009 |
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Oct 30, 2009 23:27
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God drat them templar's is purty
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Oct 30, 2009 23:38
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I can't tell if the lighting is painted on or is just the natural lighting in that room.
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Oct 30, 2009 23:42
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Nthing the Templars looking great. Now you just need some nice detail on the bases to compliment it. I think some tan/brown ground would do great.
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Oct 30, 2009 23:42
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I've finally settled on a color scheme for my Tyranids, which I am shamelessly stealing from this awesome Trygon:  Unfortunately I'm having a hell of a time figuring out what colors, washes and so on are being used there, and I'd appreciate some help figuring it out as I'm having some trouble replicating it on my test models. It's the flesh areas that are giving me the most trouble, particularly the rich browns between the tendons, joints and exoskeletal ribs, and that peculiar shade of oyster white. My current best guess - currently untested until after Halloween when I have time to experiment again - as taken from my personal notes on how to paint this style: Carapace & Claws Main: 70 / 30 Chaos Black / Fortress Grey Carapace & Claws Highlight: Blood Red (red over black oh god) Flesh: Bleached Bone basecoat --> Ogryn Flesh wash --> Bleached Bone --> Off-White highlighting, Bestial Brown stripe on appropriate models Fleshy Bits: Dark Angel Green highlighted with Snot Green I'll see about getting pictures of the work-in-progress up for critique once the Battleforce arrives and I can get down to painting something more elaborate than Gaunts.
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Oct 31, 2009 00:30
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Kestral posted:My current best guess - currently untested until after Halloween when I have time to experiment again - as taken from my personal notes on how to paint this style: Those colors look about right. Since you are going for a mostly natural earthy colored scheme I recommend avoiding pure black and white. Go with a real deep brown, perhaps Schorched Brown with a little bit of black in it for the carapace. Even if it is almost black there will still be a slight difference. It will also be easier to blend/fade up to the red.
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Oct 31, 2009 00:44
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Here's my Space Wolf dreaddy I finished a few days ago. The wolf head was taken from another model, but the rest of the pelt was my first ever attempt at green stuff, so I'm pretty happy with how that turned out. 
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Oct 31, 2009 01:39
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Nurgle purity seal?!
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Oct 31, 2009 01:42
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