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!amicable
Jan 20, 2007
The dead dude under his foot looks pretty awkward to be honest. He's really clean looking and his toes are pointing straight up, wicked witch of the west style.

The illusion that he is a crushed corpse just is not working at all and I can't help but focus on it since you made him have MUCH more contrast and interesting colors than the dread itself.

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Angryboot
Oct 23, 2005

Grimey Drawer
Thanks guys. Think I might do some touch ups later on the templars but for now I'm happy that I got the figs done.

Honestly I haven't even thought about basing til PV brought it up. This whole thing was mainly a test to see if I can actually paint minis themselves. Now that I got that done I'm gonna go through what Aranan posted and see what I should do base-wise. Unless I get distracted by something else that is.

ubermarcus
Mar 17, 2009

!amicable posted:

The dead dude under his foot looks pretty awkward to be honest. He's really clean looking and his toes are pointing straight up, wicked witch of the west style.

The illusion that he is a crushed corpse just is not working at all and I can't help but focus on it since you made him have MUCH more contrast and interesting colors than the dread itself.

I see your point. The dead guy is a Thousand Sons, so I didn't have too much say in the colour scheme. While the bright sunlight in the photo does pick out the blues more than it does in real life, I understand what you mean.
I wasn't confident enough with remodelling yet to move his feet and re-pose the legs to something more convincing, but the fact that he's been torn clean in two I thought was a pretty good indication that, while "clean looking", he's still very much in need of a band-aid :-P

As for the nurgle purity seal, that's actually a regular one taken from a Land Raider kit.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~
Building up the ballast around the dead guy a bit so he looks more "sunk in" might help :)

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

PROGRAM
A > - - -
LR > > - -
LL > - - -

Kestral posted:

I've finally settled on a color scheme for my Tyranids, which I am shamelessly stealing from this awesome Trygon:



Unfortunately I'm having a hell of a time figuring out what colors, washes and so on are being used there, and I'd appreciate some help figuring it out as I'm having some trouble replicating it on my test models. It's the flesh areas that are giving me the most trouble, particularly the rich browns between the tendons, joints and exoskeletal ribs, and that peculiar shade of oyster white.

My current best guess - currently untested until after Halloween when I have time to experiment again - as taken from my personal notes on how to paint this style:

Carapace & Claws Main: 70 / 30 Chaos Black / Fortress Grey
Carapace & Claws Highlight: Blood Red (red over black oh god)
Flesh: Bleached Bone basecoat --> Ogryn Flesh wash --> Bleached Bone --> Off-White highlighting, Bestial Brown stripe on appropriate models
Fleshy Bits: Dark Angel Green highlighted with Snot Green

I'll see about getting pictures of the work-in-progress up for critique once the Battleforce arrives and I can get down to painting something more elaborate than Gaunts.

Just google "hive fleet kraken" for various ways to achieve this scheme.

Kestral
Nov 24, 2000

Forum Veteran
Nailed it, thanks BL. For anyone who's interested, the process is detailed in these threads. There only seems to be one snag: every Kraken guide seems to rely heavily on the now-discontinued Flesh Wash. Is there a decent substitute for that anywhere?

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

PROGRAM
A > - - -
LR > > - -
LL > - - -

Kestral posted:

Nailed it, thanks BL. For anyone who's interested, the process is detailed in these threads. There only seems to be one snag: every Kraken guide seems to rely heavily on the now-discontinued Flesh Wash. Is there a decent substitute for that anywhere?

Gryphonne Sepia, Ogryn Flesh, or a combination of the two should do the trick.

Mr Beens
Dec 2, 2006

Angryboot posted:

Woo woo! Now I finally have a squad:



Guess I'll try to do a chaplain next since I don't want to gently caress up my dreadnought yet.

Those are really nice.
How did you paint the white cloth?

Angryboot
Oct 23, 2005

Grimey Drawer

Mr Beens posted:

Those are really nice.
How did you paint the white cloth?

Thanks. The cloth was done with a codex gray base then thin layers of white on top (1:10'ish paint:water).

Lovely Joe Stalin
Jun 12, 2007

Our Lovely Wang
I've been working on my fat tank using the biochem plant kit. This is all just a dry fit, which is why the tanks don't have all their valves etc on, and why it's only on one side.
I'm thinking that some piping coming off the back of the top tank leading over to an outflow into the mixing vats would look good.
The idea being that the external tanks feed the vats where the poo poo is mixed, then it's drawn inside the hull (through the baneblade's existing fuel intakes) to be taken up to the gun.




Feedback ?

Zarkov Cortez
Aug 18, 2007

Alas, our kitten class attack ships were no match for their mighty chairs
You could have the side tanks feed into the rear mixing tank and have some body parts suspended inside and have the two (assuming there are two) rear mixing tanks have bottom pipes which route into the back middle of the baneblade (maybe combine into one larger pipe).

I was also considering doing something similar for my stormlord kit that I bought, but I haven't really done any work on it. Additionally I was planning on magnetizing everything so that it could be switched between all the variants :suicide:

e:

Zarkov Cortez fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Nov 1, 2009

enri
Dec 16, 2003

Hope you're having an amazing day

!amicable posted:

Guess you don't love her 30E worth.

drat right I don't! ;)

Zarkov Cortez posted:

Keep in mind those are 1/35 scale (54mm)

I know :ssh:

I'll see if I can find any UK distributors I guess, the postage from France was pretty much half of that total.

Catfishenfuego
Oct 21, 2008

Moist With Indignation

enri posted:

drat right I don't! ;)


I know :ssh:

I'll see if I can find any UK distributors I guess, the postage from France was pretty much half of that total.
They sell them on Maelstrom Games.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Regarding Rapey Joes chemical tank, would clear water effects tinted with ink, with some skeleton/ghoul bits look as good as it does in my head?

For the open tanks at the rear I mean.

Also, painting advise required for the scales on my Alpha legion tanks:

Click here for the full 1280x960 image.

Better pic of the tank:

Click here for the full 1280x960 image.

So I can easily paint the insert before glueing it, I was wondering blue layered/highlighted up to green, or just green?

enri
Dec 16, 2003

Hope you're having an amazing day

Catfishenfuego posted:

They sell them on Maelstrom Games.

You genius, thanks :)

Pagan
Jun 4, 2003

I did try my hand at some greenstuff on the warrior priests horse. Didn't come out as good as it could have, but still better than I anticipated. I've also primed and started doing base coats on the horse.






In the meantime, I finished up all the blue knight horses; here they are fully completed. Flock, dullcoats, everything. There are actually 14 of them, and I'm quite pleased with how it all came out.




Lovely Joe Stalin
Jun 12, 2007

Our Lovely Wang

Cakefool posted:

Regarding Rapey Joes chemical tank, would clear water effects tinted with ink, with some skeleton/ghoul bits look as good as it does in my head?

For the open tanks at the rear I mean.


That's part of my plan. I'm not sure whether it'd be best to mix ink with the effect, or just paint the a false bottom and then pour water effects over the top though.

Kestral
Nov 24, 2000

Forum Veteran
Does Simple Green remove products like DullCote, glosses, varnishes, MinWax and the like? If not, can anyone recommend something to safely strip those coverings from minis?

crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006

I only pray, Heaven knows when to lift you out

Kestral posted:

Does Simple Green remove products like DullCote, glosses, varnishes, MinWax and the like? If not, can anyone recommend something to safely strip those coverings from minis?

Yeah it works on that stuff too.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~
It might have trouble with some enamel based varnishes and stuff, but generally it works on almost everything as cfh said

enri
Dec 16, 2003

Hope you're having an amazing day

Rapey Joe Stalin posted:

That's part of my plan. I'm not sure whether it'd be best to mix ink with the effect, or just paint the a false bottom and then pour water effects over the top though.

If you do the latter, make sure the water effects is only a thin coat else you'll run into the possibility that it'll just look like vaguely clear liquid over a green base. Hope that makes sense :(

I've just had an undercoating frenzy.. 1 librarian, 1 dreadnought and 5 assault marines and I've just ordered that tinkerbell & bismarck model from the smog range :v:

woop.

Now to break out the paints :suicide:

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

enri posted:

If you do the latter, make sure the water effects is only a thin coat else you'll run into the possibility that it'll just look like vaguely clear liquid over a green base. Hope that makes sense :(

Maybe progressive layers of lesser tinted mixtures? Or do I not understand how this works? :v:

Dr Hemulen
Jan 25, 2003

Does anybody know of some 25/28mm human Sci-fi minis that are smaller than GW's? I'm looking for normal human soldiers, that would scale well with Space Marines if SMs were true to the fluff. Something like the (really) old IG plastic set with 36 guys.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~
One of the tutorials I saw was using scrub flock on the bottom, then pouring water effects over it, it looked tight

Zarkov Cortez
Aug 18, 2007

Alas, our kitten class attack ships were no match for their mighty chairs

Rapey Joe Stalin posted:

That's part of my plan. I'm not sure whether it'd be best to mix ink with the effect, or just paint the a false bottom and then pour water effects over the top though.

PaintVagrant posted:

One of the tutorials I saw was using scrub flock on the bottom, then pouring water effects over it, it looked tight

http://www.terrainthralls.com/Tutorials%20folder/Bases/Bases.html

Part 4

MasterSlowPoke
Oct 9, 2005

Our courage will pull us through
Just fill it up with paint-water pre-game.

crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006

I only pray, Heaven knows when to lift you out
Who's got a good guide to water effects?

rzal
Nov 8, 2007

HardCoil posted:

Does anybody know of some 25/28mm human Sci-fi minis that are smaller than GW's? I'm looking for normal human soldiers, that would scale well with Space Marines if SMs were true to the fluff. Something like the (really) old IG plastic set with 36 guys.

You could check out gzg.com for their stargrunt line. They're like 20mm, but the quality isn't great.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

While I'm painting my Catachans and Mentors, I'm planning my next move for my Orks, specifically my Warboss and his Cyboar Warbike.

I think I have enough tubing, and gubbins for it, but I'm wondering about the propulsion for it. I don't have a bike or buggy to scrap, so here's my harebrained scheme:

Cyborg pig bike with Tau drones instead of wheels -- Good Idea or Bad Idea?

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe
I finally stopped being lazy:

Ashcans
Jan 2, 2006

Let's do the space-time warp again!

Cthulu Carl posted:

While I'm painting my Catachans and Mentors, I'm planning my next move for my Orks, specifically my Warboss and his Cyboar Warbike.

I think I have enough tubing, and gubbins for it, but I'm wondering about the propulsion for it. I don't have a bike or buggy to scrap, so here's my harebrained scheme:

Cyborg pig bike with Tau drones instead of wheels -- Good Idea or Bad Idea?

It sounds like a bad idea to me, it seems like it would end up looking like a hobby horse or something. I would try and bionic-up some legs personally, but if you're set on wheels I think you'd get a better look by building some orky wheels right out of plasticard than nailing drones to it.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Ashcans posted:

It sounds like a bad idea to me, it seems like it would end up looking like a hobby horse or something. I would try and bionic-up some legs personally, but if you're set on wheels I think you'd get a better look by building some orky wheels right out of plasticard than nailing drones to it.

Yeah, I was thinking it'd look pretty lovely (hence why I didn't put it together like that first and ask later!) Just to be clear, I had been thinking of lashing the drones to the hog and use some clear rods to make it a hover-pig-bike.

Oh well, he's still got a LOT more planning that needs done before I start slapping poo poo together. Might as well add bionic legs to that list!

Ashcans
Jan 2, 2006

Let's do the space-time warp again!

Oh, that sounds considerably better - I thought you were talking about flipping the drones on their sides and using them as wheels, which sounded kind of terrifying. A hoverpig would be better, but I still think not as good. Part of the problem is that I have trouble imagining how a cyboar without legs wouldn't look ridiculous - I mean it would sort of look like a fuzzy sausage with just the head on the front, somewhere between completely surreal and just silly.

If you have a boar model that you're working with as a base, bionics can be as complicated as you want to make them. You could either snip off the legs and rebuild them completely, or basically ad struts/bolts/cables to the outside instead. I was screwing around with a similar project (only a Cybear) although it has dead-ended and I don't have pictures on hand (it is bad work).

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Ashcans posted:

Oh, that sounds considerably better - I thought you were talking about flipping the drones on their sides and using them as wheels, which sounded kind of terrifying. A hoverpig would be better, but I still think not as good. Part of the problem is that I have trouble imagining how a cyboar without legs wouldn't look ridiculous - I mean it would sort of look like a fuzzy sausage with just the head on the front, somewhere between completely surreal and just silly.

If you have a boar model that you're working with as a base, bionics can be as complicated as you want to make them. You could either snip off the legs and rebuild them completely, or basically ad struts/bolts/cables to the outside instead. I was screwing around with a similar project (only a Cybear) although it has dead-ended and I don't have pictures on hand (it is bad work).

I'm going to try and use this Orc Warboss. I was thinking of putting one dron between his tusks and replacing the back legs with the other, that way he still has the front legs.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~

I R SMART LIKE ROCK posted:

I finally stopped being lazy:



Metals looking pretty good, what other colors are in your scheme?

Ashcans
Jan 2, 2006

Let's do the space-time warp again!

Cthulu Carl posted:

I'm going to try and use this Orc Warboss. I was thinking of putting one dron between his tusks and replacing the back legs with the other, that way he still has the front legs.

I hadn't seem that model before, it's nice. Is it a plastic kit? That would make things a lot easier. If you have the stuff on hand I would try fitting the drones on using a quick tack, see how it looks. If it turns out badly, just pop them off and build on bionic back legs for the boar - that way you wouldn't have to scrap or restart the whole thing.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~
kind of out of focus, going to reshoot them when I reshoot the whole army tomorrow



Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Yeah, it's as plastic set. Honestly, I love the plastic lord kits. A little while back I turned the Elf Mage kit into some Empire Battle Wizards (the middle two, obviously):

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe

PaintVagrant posted:

Metals looking pretty good, what other colors are in your scheme?

Funny that of all people you ask that question, considering you were the one who suggested the colors: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3179362&userid=114441&perpage=40&pagenumber=3#post365036220

But yeah its:
Armor: Adeptus Battlegrey + Badab Black wash
Gold: Mithril Siver + 2x Grephonne Sepia wash
Metal: Boltgun + Badab Black wash
Eye Slots: Blood Red + Grephonne Sepia wash
Skin: Dheneb Stone + Devlan Mud
Cape: Liche Purple + Levithan Purple wash

I need to go back and highlight the cape + make those monofix's pop a little more. Maybe straight codex grey.

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PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~

I R SMART LIKE ROCK posted:

Funny that of all people you ask that question, considering you were the one who suggested the colors: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3179362&userid=114441&perpage=40&pagenumber=3#post365036220

But yeah its:
Armor: Adeptus Battlegrey + Badab Black wash
Gold: Mithril Siver + 2x Grephonne Sepia wash
Metal: Boltgun + Badab Black wash
Eye Slots: Blood Red + Grephonne Sepia wash
Skin: Dheneb Stone + Devlan Mud
Cape: Liche Purple + Levithan Purple wash

I need to go back and highlight the cape + make those monofix's pop a little more. Maybe straight codex grey.

aaaaah yeah now I remember :frog:

my memory is so loving terrible

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