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The dead dude under his foot looks pretty awkward to be honest. He's really clean looking and his toes are pointing straight up, wicked witch of the west style. The illusion that he is a crushed corpse just is not working at all and I can't help but focus on it since you made him have MUCH more contrast and interesting colors than the dread itself.
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# ? Oct 31, 2009 01:56 |
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# ? Apr 24, 2024 12:28 |
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Thanks guys. Think I might do some touch ups later on the templars but for now I'm happy that I got the figs done. Honestly I haven't even thought about basing til PV brought it up. This whole thing was mainly a test to see if I can actually paint minis themselves. Now that I got that done I'm gonna go through what Aranan posted and see what I should do base-wise. Unless I get distracted by something else that is.
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# ? Oct 31, 2009 02:47 |
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!amicable posted:The dead dude under his foot looks pretty awkward to be honest. He's really clean looking and his toes are pointing straight up, wicked witch of the west style. I see your point. The dead guy is a Thousand Sons, so I didn't have too much say in the colour scheme. While the bright sunlight in the photo does pick out the blues more than it does in real life, I understand what you mean. I wasn't confident enough with remodelling yet to move his feet and re-pose the legs to something more convincing, but the fact that he's been torn clean in two I thought was a pretty good indication that, while "clean looking", he's still very much in need of a band-aid :-P As for the nurgle purity seal, that's actually a regular one taken from a Land Raider kit.
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# ? Oct 31, 2009 04:03 |
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Building up the ballast around the dead guy a bit so he looks more "sunk in" might help
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# ? Oct 31, 2009 04:12 |
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Kestral posted:I've finally settled on a color scheme for my Tyranids, which I am shamelessly stealing from this awesome Trygon: Just google "hive fleet kraken" for various ways to achieve this scheme.
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# ? Oct 31, 2009 04:14 |
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Nailed it, thanks BL. For anyone who's interested, the process is detailed in these threads. There only seems to be one snag: every Kraken guide seems to rely heavily on the now-discontinued Flesh Wash. Is there a decent substitute for that anywhere?
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# ? Oct 31, 2009 07:01 |
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Kestral posted:Nailed it, thanks BL. For anyone who's interested, the process is detailed in these threads. There only seems to be one snag: every Kraken guide seems to rely heavily on the now-discontinued Flesh Wash. Is there a decent substitute for that anywhere? Gryphonne Sepia, Ogryn Flesh, or a combination of the two should do the trick.
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# ? Oct 31, 2009 07:11 |
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Angryboot posted:Woo woo! Now I finally have a squad: Those are really nice. How did you paint the white cloth?
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# ? Oct 31, 2009 15:26 |
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Mr Beens posted:Those are really nice. Thanks. The cloth was done with a codex gray base then thin layers of white on top (1:10'ish paint:water).
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# ? Oct 31, 2009 22:44 |
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I've been working on my fat tank using the biochem plant kit. This is all just a dry fit, which is why the tanks don't have all their valves etc on, and why it's only on one side. I'm thinking that some piping coming off the back of the top tank leading over to an outflow into the mixing vats would look good. The idea being that the external tanks feed the vats where the poo poo is mixed, then it's drawn inside the hull (through the baneblade's existing fuel intakes) to be taken up to the gun. Feedback ?
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# ? Nov 1, 2009 02:32 |
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You could have the side tanks feed into the rear mixing tank and have some body parts suspended inside and have the two (assuming there are two) rear mixing tanks have bottom pipes which route into the back middle of the baneblade (maybe combine into one larger pipe). I was also considering doing something similar for my stormlord kit that I bought, but I haven't really done any work on it. Additionally I was planning on magnetizing everything so that it could be switched between all the variants e: Zarkov Cortez fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Nov 1, 2009 |
# ? Nov 1, 2009 03:05 |
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!amicable posted:Guess you don't love her 30E worth. drat right I don't! Zarkov Cortez posted:Keep in mind those are 1/35 scale (54mm) I know I'll see if I can find any UK distributors I guess, the postage from France was pretty much half of that total.
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# ? Nov 1, 2009 11:59 |
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enri posted:drat right I don't!
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# ? Nov 1, 2009 12:25 |
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Regarding Rapey Joes chemical tank, would clear water effects tinted with ink, with some skeleton/ghoul bits look as good as it does in my head? For the open tanks at the rear I mean. Also, painting advise required for the scales on my Alpha legion tanks: Click here for the full 1280x960 image. Better pic of the tank: Click here for the full 1280x960 image. So I can easily paint the insert before glueing it, I was wondering blue layered/highlighted up to green, or just green?
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# ? Nov 1, 2009 12:57 |
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Catfishenfuego posted:They sell them on Maelstrom Games. You genius, thanks
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# ? Nov 1, 2009 14:14 |
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I did try my hand at some greenstuff on the warrior priests horse. Didn't come out as good as it could have, but still better than I anticipated. I've also primed and started doing base coats on the horse. In the meantime, I finished up all the blue knight horses; here they are fully completed. Flock, dullcoats, everything. There are actually 14 of them, and I'm quite pleased with how it all came out.
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# ? Nov 1, 2009 18:31 |
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Cakefool posted:Regarding Rapey Joes chemical tank, would clear water effects tinted with ink, with some skeleton/ghoul bits look as good as it does in my head? That's part of my plan. I'm not sure whether it'd be best to mix ink with the effect, or just paint the a false bottom and then pour water effects over the top though.
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# ? Nov 1, 2009 19:46 |
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Does Simple Green remove products like DullCote, glosses, varnishes, MinWax and the like? If not, can anyone recommend something to safely strip those coverings from minis?
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# ? Nov 1, 2009 19:53 |
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Kestral posted:Does Simple Green remove products like DullCote, glosses, varnishes, MinWax and the like? If not, can anyone recommend something to safely strip those coverings from minis? Yeah it works on that stuff too.
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# ? Nov 1, 2009 20:27 |
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It might have trouble with some enamel based varnishes and stuff, but generally it works on almost everything as cfh said
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# ? Nov 1, 2009 20:51 |
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:That's part of my plan. I'm not sure whether it'd be best to mix ink with the effect, or just paint the a false bottom and then pour water effects over the top though. If you do the latter, make sure the water effects is only a thin coat else you'll run into the possibility that it'll just look like vaguely clear liquid over a green base. Hope that makes sense I've just had an undercoating frenzy.. 1 librarian, 1 dreadnought and 5 assault marines and I've just ordered that tinkerbell & bismarck model from the smog range woop. Now to break out the paints
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# ? Nov 1, 2009 21:35 |
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enri posted:If you do the latter, make sure the water effects is only a thin coat else you'll run into the possibility that it'll just look like vaguely clear liquid over a green base. Hope that makes sense Maybe progressive layers of lesser tinted mixtures? Or do I not understand how this works?
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# ? Nov 1, 2009 21:44 |
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Does anybody know of some 25/28mm human Sci-fi minis that are smaller than GW's? I'm looking for normal human soldiers, that would scale well with Space Marines if SMs were true to the fluff. Something like the (really) old IG plastic set with 36 guys.
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# ? Nov 1, 2009 21:47 |
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One of the tutorials I saw was using scrub flock on the bottom, then pouring water effects over it, it looked tight
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# ? Nov 1, 2009 21:49 |
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:That's part of my plan. I'm not sure whether it'd be best to mix ink with the effect, or just paint the a false bottom and then pour water effects over the top though. PaintVagrant posted:One of the tutorials I saw was using scrub flock on the bottom, then pouring water effects over it, it looked tight http://www.terrainthralls.com/Tutorials%20folder/Bases/Bases.html Part 4
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# ? Nov 1, 2009 21:52 |
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Just fill it up with paint-water pre-game.
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# ? Nov 1, 2009 22:05 |
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Who's got a good guide to water effects?
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# ? Nov 1, 2009 22:07 |
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HardCoil posted:Does anybody know of some 25/28mm human Sci-fi minis that are smaller than GW's? I'm looking for normal human soldiers, that would scale well with Space Marines if SMs were true to the fluff. Something like the (really) old IG plastic set with 36 guys. You could check out gzg.com for their stargrunt line. They're like 20mm, but the quality isn't great.
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# ? Nov 1, 2009 23:16 |
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While I'm painting my Catachans and Mentors, I'm planning my next move for my Orks, specifically my Warboss and his Cyboar Warbike. I think I have enough tubing, and gubbins for it, but I'm wondering about the propulsion for it. I don't have a bike or buggy to scrap, so here's my harebrained scheme: Cyborg pig bike with Tau drones instead of wheels -- Good Idea or Bad Idea?
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# ? Nov 2, 2009 01:28 |
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I finally stopped being lazy:
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# ? Nov 2, 2009 15:26 |
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Cthulu Carl posted:While I'm painting my Catachans and Mentors, I'm planning my next move for my Orks, specifically my Warboss and his Cyboar Warbike. It sounds like a bad idea to me, it seems like it would end up looking like a hobby horse or something. I would try and bionic-up some legs personally, but if you're set on wheels I think you'd get a better look by building some orky wheels right out of plasticard than nailing drones to it.
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# ? Nov 2, 2009 15:51 |
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Ashcans posted:It sounds like a bad idea to me, it seems like it would end up looking like a hobby horse or something. I would try and bionic-up some legs personally, but if you're set on wheels I think you'd get a better look by building some orky wheels right out of plasticard than nailing drones to it. Yeah, I was thinking it'd look pretty lovely (hence why I didn't put it together like that first and ask later!) Just to be clear, I had been thinking of lashing the drones to the hog and use some clear rods to make it a hover-pig-bike. Oh well, he's still got a LOT more planning that needs done before I start slapping poo poo together. Might as well add bionic legs to that list!
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# ? Nov 2, 2009 16:21 |
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Oh, that sounds considerably better - I thought you were talking about flipping the drones on their sides and using them as wheels, which sounded kind of terrifying. A hoverpig would be better, but I still think not as good. Part of the problem is that I have trouble imagining how a cyboar without legs wouldn't look ridiculous - I mean it would sort of look like a fuzzy sausage with just the head on the front, somewhere between completely surreal and just silly. If you have a boar model that you're working with as a base, bionics can be as complicated as you want to make them. You could either snip off the legs and rebuild them completely, or basically ad struts/bolts/cables to the outside instead. I was screwing around with a similar project (only a Cybear) although it has dead-ended and I don't have pictures on hand (it is bad work).
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# ? Nov 2, 2009 17:14 |
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Ashcans posted:Oh, that sounds considerably better - I thought you were talking about flipping the drones on their sides and using them as wheels, which sounded kind of terrifying. A hoverpig would be better, but I still think not as good. Part of the problem is that I have trouble imagining how a cyboar without legs wouldn't look ridiculous - I mean it would sort of look like a fuzzy sausage with just the head on the front, somewhere between completely surreal and just silly. I'm going to try and use this Orc Warboss. I was thinking of putting one dron between his tusks and replacing the back legs with the other, that way he still has the front legs.
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# ? Nov 2, 2009 18:28 |
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I R SMART LIKE ROCK posted:I finally stopped being lazy: Metals looking pretty good, what other colors are in your scheme?
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# ? Nov 2, 2009 18:31 |
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Cthulu Carl posted:I'm going to try and use this Orc Warboss. I was thinking of putting one dron between his tusks and replacing the back legs with the other, that way he still has the front legs. I hadn't seem that model before, it's nice. Is it a plastic kit? That would make things a lot easier. If you have the stuff on hand I would try fitting the drones on using a quick tack, see how it looks. If it turns out badly, just pop them off and build on bionic back legs for the boar - that way you wouldn't have to scrap or restart the whole thing.
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# ? Nov 2, 2009 18:52 |
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kind of out of focus, going to reshoot them when I reshoot the whole army tomorrow
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# ? Nov 2, 2009 20:42 |
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Yeah, it's as plastic set. Honestly, I love the plastic lord kits. A little while back I turned the Elf Mage kit into some Empire Battle Wizards (the middle two, obviously):
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# ? Nov 2, 2009 20:50 |
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PaintVagrant posted:Metals looking pretty good, what other colors are in your scheme? Funny that of all people you ask that question, considering you were the one who suggested the colors: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3179362&userid=114441&perpage=40&pagenumber=3#post365036220 But yeah its: Armor: Adeptus Battlegrey + Badab Black wash Gold: Mithril Siver + 2x Grephonne Sepia wash Metal: Boltgun + Badab Black wash Eye Slots: Blood Red + Grephonne Sepia wash Skin: Dheneb Stone + Devlan Mud Cape: Liche Purple + Levithan Purple wash I need to go back and highlight the cape + make those monofix's pop a little more. Maybe straight codex grey.
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# ? Nov 2, 2009 22:17 |
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# ? Apr 24, 2024 12:28 |
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I R SMART LIKE ROCK posted:Funny that of all people you ask that question, considering you were the one who suggested the colors: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3179362&userid=114441&perpage=40&pagenumber=3#post365036220 aaaaah yeah now I remember my memory is so loving terrible
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# ? Nov 2, 2009 22:19 |