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Two Skorne models I painted up recently for a tournament:  Next up is a full unit of Cygnar Stormguard and some solos. I'd like to get a 35 point list fully painted in a month for a Flashpoint event. We'll see how that goes.
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Nov 6, 2009 19:38
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Made some progress on baby tanks: Yes, they're Epic baneblades. I'm going for an Alpha Legion list, which also incorporates traitor guard. I didnt' want to go 100% CHAOS! for the guard, so I can retask them to loyal forces - but I did want them to have a grimy Rogue Trader feel. Hopefully I can get some more units done this weekend, and a little more detail on these guys. I'm having poo poo luck figuring out Alpha Legion's vehicles and symbols though. 
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Nov 6, 2009 20:19
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Great contributions, those skorne and tanks are both really well done
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Nov 6, 2009 22:09
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Seeing non warham stuff in here owns.
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Nov 7, 2009 00:52
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Cakefool posted:Painting tank tracks: Brown basecoat, tinbitz then boltgun drybrushing? Instead of brown basecoat and tinbitz, I'm all about Vallejo Dark Rust (it's in the Panzer Aces range) for tank tracks. Then boltgun, dirt with whatever method (paint, pigments or whatever) then a few bits of pencil or more boltgun on the edges that'll be clear of dirt.
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Nov 7, 2009 01:26
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The first step is spending money, as they say! Actually, a majority of my MOW models were assembled, but I broke 'em up so I could paint each piece in more detail. I actually saw the P3 painting teaser video on the Privateer Press website, which actually demonstrated what I sorta need to do in order to get a solid gold. I picked up a fairly cheap set of brushes for drybrushing and a cheap palette to try and make sure the blending works well. One thing that comes to mind is: primer it as black, or gray? I might need to go buy black, since I have a matte gray right now.
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Nov 7, 2009 05:49
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If the models are mostly black then its a no-brainer 
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Nov 7, 2009 08:08
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I really like those baneblades. It looks like inbetween Nurgle bits I'm going to be painting quite a few Night Goblins, the problem is I suck at painting black cloth. My first thought was maybe use shadow grey as the highlight colour. Any tips ? Alternatively, would I be better off just starting with a dark grey and then badab washing ?
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Nov 7, 2009 08:31
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The orc from my previous post with some more work done to him. Still need to paint his pants and do the highlights. Using red in the shadows has made it interesting. It's easy to use too much as you can see in the shot of the back of his head. Going for a gold/copper on his armor. Still not sure what to do for the jeweled bracer on his arm.  Click here for the full 500x822 image.
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Nov 7, 2009 08:52
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Arlaharen posted:Two Skorne models I painted up recently for a tournament:
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Nov 7, 2009 09:36
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Arlaharen posted:your nickelodeon floam is spilling out of the base
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Nov 7, 2009 10:23
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Ceritus posted:Those are sweet. Skorne look great in Vinter's colors. The bases are pretty awesome, too - what materials did you use to get that effect? Thanks! The base is really easy to make. I break up a cork placemat and glue it to the base together with sand so the entire surface is covered. Basecoat white, then just drybrush yellow, orange, red and brown to get a gradent. I go really easy with the red on the lower parts and the brown is only for the area just under the plateau the model is standing on. Finally I paint the flat surface black. You can easily paint enough bases for an entire army in a day. I think I got the technique originally fram CMON but can't find the article. Might have been from the PP forums. Broken Loose posted:your nickelodeon floam is spilling out of the base Rhadeim is so badass it radiates across base boundaries.
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Nov 7, 2009 15:51
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Need some advice on thinning my paints. The easiest way seems to be using dropper bottles to add water so you get the same consistancy every time. I've found various places to get these on the internet but the postage cost for such a cheap item annoys me. I've looked at the vallejo paints I bought and the dropper bottles look like they don't come apart to easy or go back together easy either. So a screw on dropper bottle top thing would be better. Any ideas for places to get these, or another way to add a small measured amount of water? I live in the UK so suggestions like walmart won't be helpful.
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Nov 7, 2009 21:35
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asbo subject posted:Need some advice on thinning my paints. You can lever off the vallejo lids with a small screwdriver or something. Try going to your local chemist and pick up an eyedropper or empty syringe. I use the latter to transfer paint when I run my airbrush.
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Nov 7, 2009 21:49
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asbo subject posted:Need some advice on thinning my paints. Use a drinking straw. Put your finger over the end when you dip it into the water and let your finger off the end to release the water into your paint.
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Nov 7, 2009 21:51
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Fix posted:Use a drinking straw. Put your finger over the end when you dip it into the water and let your finger off the end to release the water into your paint. Thank you, i never thought of that. Even though I used the same technique many years ago doing chemistry with a pippete.
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Nov 7, 2009 22:34
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No Pun Intended posted:You can lever off the vallejo lids with a small screwdriver or something. Try going to your local chemist and pick up an eyedropper or empty syringe. I use the latter to transfer paint when I run my airbrush. That would work too. I feel quite loving stupid now. I won't be levering tops off of my paints but I will snaffle some syringes from work. I'm thinking the 1 ml graduated insulin syringe. Another question- I saw some distilled water being sold in my LGS, is their any disadvantage of using tap water to thin paints? asbo subject fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Nov 7, 2009 |
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Nov 7, 2009 22:37
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From my experience I have had no problems with tap water, it probably depends on how hard your local water supply is.
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Nov 7, 2009 22:47
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asbo subject posted:Another question- I saw some distilled water being sold in my LGS, is their any disadvantage of using tap water to thin paints? Too much water will break the bonds of the pigment and render it essentially useless. Water used in moderation works just fine, and my understanding is that some of the pros only use water to thin their paints. A fair number of others make use of various paint additives like Liquitex Flow Aid to thin paints without breaking the pigment bonds, improve adhesion and increase the drying time to make blending easier. Two of the more prominent additive blends are by Anne Foerster and Jen Haley, professional miniature painters for Reaper. Anne's Recipe: 80% Folk Art Extender (a fluid retarder, despite the name) 10% Windsor & Newton Flow Improver 10% Water Jen's Recipe: 25% Liquitex Slow-Dri Fluid Retarder 25% Windsor & Newton Flow Improver 50% Water I'll admit I haven't tried either of them as no store within 100 miles of my house carries these products, but the internet loves them for whatever that's worth. Anyone have any experience with these or other additive mixes?
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Nov 7, 2009 22:52
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No Pun Intended posted:From my experience I have had no problems with tap water, it probably depends on how hard your local water supply is. Hard as gently caress to be honest. It scales up my kettle like a bastard and comes out of the tap looking for a fight. Along with syringes, sterile water will be on my borrow list.
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Nov 7, 2009 23:12
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Got some painting in while watching T.V. today.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x584 image.  Click here for the full 733x513 image.
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Nov 8, 2009 05:09
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 Hacking up a battlewagon. Lots of the bits aren't glued yet which is why there's demented half-wheels at the front. Now, when I started this build I knew I'd end up with the standard deffrolla arms not fitting. Do these arms (from grabba klaws) look a bit weedy for the rolla? Obviously I still have a lot of plates and rivets still to do on the rest of the wagon.
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Nov 9, 2009 00:04
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I didn't notice the arms til ou pointed them out, and I think they look fine. Whole project is looking good keep it up 
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Nov 9, 2009 01:35
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Shallow posted:
They look great, Shallow. Hydraulic rolla arms are a good touch.
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Nov 9, 2009 02:21
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I still cant figure out why the hell GW made that bwagon so skinny, but I guess it gives everyone the opportunity to chop it up and widen it
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Nov 9, 2009 03:36
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So after wandering into a GW late on a Thursday night (a bit drunk) a couple of months ago, I decided I would get back into things after a 10 year gap. I was never into the gaming side, and just painted. Till now exclusively fantasy so this was a bit of a change. Model is one of the old metal furiouso dreadnoughts I found in my bits box, converted to a Deathwing model ( as i hate painting red)      I'm pretty pleased with the result, although it wasnt quite like riding a bike after such a gap. Lots of re-learning throughout! One thing I did realise whilst painting is how good the plastic models have got nowadays. I always used to hate painting them (the weight just felt wrong in my hands), and was adamant I'd be paiting something metal, but the moulding on this one when comparing it to the new models just doesnt stand up. Ah well Skarsnik fucked around with this message at 12:14 on May 21, 2014 |
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Nov 9, 2009 15:49
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PaintVagrant posted:kind of out of focus, going to reshoot them when I reshoot the whole army tomorrow Dammmmmmn. Really making me want to rework my paint scheme for my Deathguard. Very nice work man. I haven't painted in two years, so its a bit rough getting back into it - very rusty. Here is my Deathguard WIP test model. Still need to thin down my paints some more, they are surprisingly still liquid even though its been awhile since I opened them, but they could use a bit of water..  I based with Scorched Brown, drybrush on Rotting Flesh, followed by two thin coats of more Rotting Flesh to smooth it out. Raised edges / Borders are Catachan Green based with Camo Green over it. All recesses then given a thin lining of Scorched Brown to smooth it out a bit. I might need to darken the armor color slightly because I can't make any bone stand out from the armor. I could use some critique and advice. [Edit: Probably going to stop drybrushing, I think its what is giving me the unwanted coarseness on the figures.] And a plague zombie I'm working on. To show how Papa Nurgle loves sharing his gift with everyone regardless of race, I'm salvaging old and broken IG, Marine, Eldar, Ork, and even 'Nids to make a zombie horde. 
Fake James fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Nov 10, 2009 |
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Nov 10, 2009 00:21
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Are Khorne Berzerkers the only place to get chainaxes? I need a couple dozen 
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Nov 10, 2009 01:40
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FirstCongoWar posted:Are Khorne Berzerkers the only place to get chainaxes? I need a couple dozen Don't Techpriests/Techmarines come with Omnissian Chainaxes? Could probably use those if necessary (if somewhat changed maybe).
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Nov 10, 2009 01:57
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I might have a bunch spare- I'll check later.
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Nov 10, 2009 02:50
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Nice to get back to work after taking 6 days off:   
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Nov 10, 2009 03:41
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FirstCongoWar posted:Are Khorne Berzerkers the only place to get chainaxes? I need a couple dozen http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/chainaxes.htm PaintVagrant posted:Nice to get back to work after taking 6 days off: Now you need a wings pic 
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Nov 10, 2009 06:55
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Getting those FW axes would almost certainly be a very bad idea. The handles will be extraordinarily easy to break, and probably warped to gently caress.
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Nov 10, 2009 12:52
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Zarkov Cortez posted:http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/chainaxes.htm Yeah wings will be done today
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Nov 10, 2009 19:05
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PV, those are friggin awesome. On primers, what can you use instead of citadel's 15 dollar white spray can? I know for black it's krylon flat black, anything for white?
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Nov 11, 2009 01:33
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I've had a lot of luck using duplicolor sandable auto primer as my white.
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Nov 11, 2009 01:40
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armory white is 6 bux
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Nov 11, 2009 01:47
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Posted in gibbus but didn't get many replies so I figured here might be goodA Powerful Cream posted:So guys... I need some help. It isn't really noticeable in room lighting without closer inspection but Christ does that pic show some horrible uneven coverage.
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Nov 11, 2009 12:16
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. Is there any way to fix this outside of repainting the entire model?
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A Powerful Cream posted:Try using a coat or 2 of mechrite red before slapping red gore on next time? Foundation paints are pretty amazing for giving you a good layer to start with. Either that or get an airbrush. Oh and use a bigger brush?
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Nov 11, 2009 17:17
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Here's some stuff: lovely photo. It's a Tzeench demon prince on a chariot. I will try to shoot some better pictures of him; he's riding some tau poo poo, all doomrider style. I still need to give him arms, finish the faces all coming out of his torso and make the tau thing look all hosed. I guess the fluff behind him is that even Tau can get hosed up by demons despite having no warp presence because, gently caress YEAH I'M A DEMON SUCK MY DIIIIIICCCKKKK On that note, here's a Keeper of Secrets:   Thanks to PV who sold me the spawn kit for mad cheap. These dudes were spawn. e: in the last photo of the KoS I didn't rotate him correctly and his sword got caught on those spikes, so he's leaning back a bit.
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Nov 12, 2009 01:21
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