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Sponge! posted:Had one asked to me today, and I was man enough to admit I did not know but would find out... If my instructor is to be believed, overfilling causes the fluid to come into contact with bits it isn't supposed to, and it effectively gets whisked about(for lack of proper terminology) and becomes foamy and aerated. Fluid with air in it compresses more than fluid without, so it will lower hydraulic pressure, causing unexpected heat, wear, and slippage.
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Nov 10, 2009 09:02
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Overfilling an automatic can be pretty damaging, leading to extreme premature wear in lots of different friction parts internally. Don't do it, try not to drive if it has been done, just drain and refill to the proper level.
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Nov 10, 2009 09:51
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Ivan Drago posted:My friend has a '95 Ford Escort Wagon (automatic transmission) that "chugs" both at idle and while she's driving. Having little to go by, I checked the transmission fluid and found normal levels. After test driving it myself I noticed there seemed to be a switch turning on and off in the engine compartment at regular intervals (there's an audible click). Every 10 seconds or so it would turn on for about a second then turn off, and while on it would cause the car to lug down a bit while moving and lurch forward a slight bit while idling. I turned off the A/C which had previously been on and noticed the issue disappeared entirely which leads me to suspect the IAC. I was under the impression a bad IAC would only affect idling though and not cause the chugging while moving. Is this accurate? Is there anything I could check to narrow down the issue a bit? I know very little about cars as this question probably indicates so if I've left out any pertinent details I apologize. Sounds like the A/C compressor is short cycling, the compressor may be bad or it may just be that the system is empty.
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Nov 10, 2009 13:43
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Is there any way to stop annoying rattles and clanks of plastic-on-plastic somewhere in the dash? In my '03 Mustang GT, if I'm driving on anything but the smoothest of roads, there are annoying rattles and clanks and whatnot. I have no idea how to take a dash apart, and I wouldn't know how to find the culprit even if I did. Is there an easy way to make it quieter? Music can typically drown it out, but sometimes I want silence and all I get is rattling.
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Nov 10, 2009 17:22
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johnny sack posted:Is there any way to stop annoying rattles and clanks of plastic-on-plastic somewhere in the dash? Unfortunately interior noises like that are very hard to rectify. Really the only way would be to take every piece apart and put insulating foam washers on all the plastic clips and screws holding the pieces together. These are usually put on in key locations from the factory, but wear out after a little while. Sometimes you even get those noises when the vehicle is new. These noises are indictive of poor finish or cheap build quality. Unfortunately Mustangs arn't known for their quality fit and finish. Hence why you get a powerful V8 for a good price. They had to sacrifice elsewhere. If it's trim pieces around the edges of the dash it wouldn't be too bad to fix. However if it's creaks and rattles deep within...good luck.  Edit: The only easy solution would be if the dash has been apart before (i.e. for a stereo installation or whatnot) ensure that all the screws and clips were put back in. However, this scenario seems unlikely.
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Nov 10, 2009 17:30
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Chafey posted:I've got a 98 Chevy Cavalier, and i want to put studded tires on. My wheels are 205 / 70 / 15 and the winter wheels I've got are 195 / 65 / 15. Will these baddy boys fit on my car or am I poo poo out of luck? Have those winter wheels been on the car before? If so, smaller tires should fit no problem. They'll distort the speedometer but that should be the only issue. If you just got those wheels, they might not fit the car in terms of offset or bolt pattern or hub bore. warwick5s posted:Does anyone here have a service manual for a 1st gen Ford Focus and a scanner or digital camera? My buddy needs help replacing his auto shifter assembly and he's 2000 miles away. I have the FSM, but no scanner or decent camera. I think my cameraphone might be good enough? PM me if I forget to thumb through it for the auto shifter section.
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Nov 10, 2009 17:42
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kimbo305 posted:I have the FSM, but no scanner or decent camera. I think my cameraphone might be good enough? PM me if I forget to thumb through it for the auto shifter section. Cameraphone or even a description or what's necessary to remove and replace the shifter would be incredibly awesome.
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Nov 10, 2009 17:50
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Bocklebee posted:Unfortunately interior noises like that are very hard to rectify. Really the only way would be to take every piece apart and put insulating foam washers on all the plastic clips and screws holding the pieces together. These are usually put on in key locations from the factory, but wear out after a little while. Sometimes you even get those noises when the vehicle is new. These noises are indictive of poor finish or cheap build quality. Unfortunately Mustangs arn't known for their quality fit and finish. Hence why you get a powerful V8 for a good price. They had to sacrifice elsewhere. That's what I was afraid of. As far as I know, the dash has never been taken apart. Just by touch, some of the rattles are pretty superficial, but the bulk of the noise comes from within. Oh well. Thanks for the response.
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Nov 10, 2009 18:12
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Be a fancy lad and help me figure out an issue with my 2000 Porsche 911! Few symptoms: 1) Sometimes idle feels like it skips a beat--smooth smooth smooth stumble smooth smooth, etc. Better with A/C on. 2) When cold, engine hesitates/surges on acceleration, that's gone after 20 seconds of driving, tops. 3) Sometimes will idle a bit high, maybe around 1000rpm instead of 800rpm, happens more often with the A/C on. Edit: I only notice this happening after driving then coming to a stop and letting it idle. If I blip the throttle it will generally come back down to normal. 4) This is a little tricky to explain--say I'm slowing down to about 15mph from 40mph. I'll put it in neutral and let it drop to idle, then tap the gas to rev-match to slip it into second, but instead of rev-matching, the rpm will continue to go up after my foot's off the throttle. I'll tap it, expecting a blip, but I'll get a blip plus a half second's worth of rpm rise. Information: DBW throttle, no mechanical idle control, MAF. My inklings: I'm thinking vacuum leak, but if it's that I'm not sure how to track it down past visual inspection of hoses, suggestions? Edit: Maybe it's just gunk in the throttle body around the butterfly, I'll clean that up and see what happens, but the surging isn't a symptom generally seen with a gunked TB according to other 996 owners though. Thanks AI I love you bunches. Dave Inc. fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Nov 10, 2009 |
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Nov 10, 2009 20:50
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I'm in the process of buying a house. The next door neighbor has this:   It is a Renault Caravelle. The front seems to say "F_RAVELLE" which makes me think it's being re-badged as a FLORIDE (or from FLORIDE to CARAVELLE) or something. It's clearly a project car, because the tires on the right side (not pictured) are very low and it hasn't been moved in some time. The interior is not in great shape. What year is it? Is it an awesome thing? After we close, should I offer to help him (or her) restore it, just because it'd be a fun neighborly project to build neighborship and be fun and then maybe he'd let me drive it? Or is it a terrible underpowered money pit that will drive like poo poo. I don't really know, I just think it looks pretty sweet. Edit: Although I think the wheels look too big. It has this kind of high big-wheeled stance. Are those the original size wheels?
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Nov 10, 2009 22:07
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Here's a (stupid) followup question to my last one about potentially buying an older used luxury-type car: If you're buying a car that's something like 10-15 years old, and you live in a climate with a bitter winter and plenty of snow, what can you do to minimize rust issues? I really don't mind saving money and buying an old car, but I wouldn't want it to collapse in a cloud of rust within a few years.
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Nov 11, 2009 00:52
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destroebl posted:Here's a (stupid) followup question to my last one about potentially buying an older used luxury-type car: Wash it always. Weekly at the least, I'd say. I don't really follow my own advice, but I bought my car in the south, so it has only had a year or two of Michigan winters to deal with. Unless you live in ND or somewhere else it's too cold to salt the roads, then you can go longer. Anywhere they salt the roads though, at least rinse it down (including/especially the underside) regularly, and thoroughly wash it. Also, if there's existing rust, attend to that so it won't spread. E: Do it when the car is hot, with defrost on full. Otherwise if it's cold enough, poo poo freezes, and it's just a hassle. Comradephate fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Nov 11, 2009 |
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Nov 11, 2009 01:13
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destroebl posted:Here's a (stupid) followup question to my last one about potentially buying an older used luxury-type car: This is EXACTLY why you buy older cars (other than collectors, or living out childhood fantasies). You buy them because you don't care if they fall apart in a few years. Anyway, a good start would be to buy one a little farther south where they don't use tons of salt and chemicals. If that's not an option, I'd take the car to a mechanic to put up on a lift and check the frame and flooring for rust. Then start looking for places that will apply undercoat. But to be honest, if you're buying a cheap used car, don't worry about it so much and just enjoy the hell out of the car while you have it. Also, while it may not work so well depending on HOW bitter your winters get, the automated car washers that do undercarriage washing work good for getting most of the salt and crap off the underside of the car. E: And definitely what Comradephate said... frequent washing. bladernr fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Nov 11, 2009 |
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Nov 11, 2009 01:18
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Decent wiper blades? I don't want to spend a lot of money, but earlier this year I replaced the OEM blades (8 loving years old!) on my Accord with some crappy Anco blades. They SUCK - they streak, chatter, and if it's misting, they just smear water around. The original blades were silent, still moved most of the water around (they were falling apart and had chunks missing, which is why I replaced them), and for 8 years old, did a good job. I don't want to blow $20+ per blade, but I want silent blades that actually do what they're supposed to do.. move water off the windshield and leave it clear, and I want to get a couple of years out of them. We get over 30 inches of rain per year on average in this area (Dallas TX), coupled with hot summers that are murder on rubber.
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Nov 11, 2009 10:47
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I am not a bean posted:Decent wiper blades? Bosch Excel, and rain-x the glass properly (Get the stuff in the spray bottle, go to the carwash, powerwash the gently caress out of the glass, rinse well, spray the everloving poo poo out of it with rainex and powerwash(rinse only, no soap!) off. gently caress the wax-on wax-off crap with towels.) and you're set. Use of rain-x fluid helps too. Every 6 months take the inserts out of them and flip them over so they flex the other way...
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Nov 11, 2009 11:03
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On that note... assuming I don't go with Rain-X washer fluid, what's a good choice that has good all weather performance? Right now I think I'm running something from Rain-X (I filled up the tank a year and a half ago, and topped it off with the rest of the bottle 5 or 6 months ago, so my memory is a bit hazy). It looks kind of like diluted discount grocery store "orange drink", it's supposed to be good year round and help melt ice as well. This is Texas, we drop below freezing a handful of times per year, so I just want something that won't crack the tank when it freezes. I uh... haven't washed my car in almost 6 months. It's what I call "grandpa gold" - it looks clean even if I haven't washed it in ages, and the clearcoat is peeling off anyway, so why bother? The paint on the hubcaps is 99% gone too. I do regular maintenance (did the timing belt/water pump early this year, change the oil roughly every 4000-5000 miles, just got new tires, and reg/smog are both current), but I don't give 2 shits what it looks like as long as it doesn't have Sockington Rust <tm>. I've waxed it once in the 3+ years I've owned it, the only time it gets washed is when the local full service car wash is running $3 (with hand towel dry) specials. The weather here is beyond weird. We'll go a couple of months without any rain, then holy poo poo several inches in a couple of days. How do you rain-x properly, aside from trying to blast layers of glass off of the windshield with a crappy 50 psi carwash sprayer? tl;dr: If Bosch Excel isn't insanely expensive I'll pick them up on Friday (payday). I fully expect some flurries and freezing rain next month and want to be ready. Any other brands to recommend? Flipping them once in awhile sounds.. well.... odd. They get used in both directions normally anyway. Anything to back this up?
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Nov 11, 2009 12:49
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I am not a bean posted:On that note... assuming I don't go with Rain-X washer fluid, what's a good choice that has good all weather performance? Bosch excel are under $10 each, and I think AZ carries them. They don't rest in both directions. They come to rest on the downward stroke. Proper rain-x is clean glass, dry glass, spray rain-x on towel, wax-on motions lightly over whole glass, wait for solvent to evaporate and haze to form. Clean towel with a bit of clean water sprinkled on it, wax-off hard till haze is gone.
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Nov 11, 2009 12:51
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^^^^^^^^^ The GTI moves the wipers slightly when you park the car so they don't rest for long periods of time in the same position. God bless the Germans. Personally, if your OEM blades lasted 8 years, I'd be really happy to buy some more despite the cost.
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Nov 11, 2009 18:21
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Uthor posted:^^^^^^^^^ The GTI moves the wipers slightly when you park the car so they don't rest for long periods of time in the same position. God bless the Germans. Seriously. I would be willing to bet the guy doesn't live somewhere with icy winters, though. Basically, winters destroy wipers every season. You get some ice on your windshield and have your blades go across them...then they're hosed. I would love to have wipers last 8 years but with ice and snow, I don't think could happen. Granted, I'm probably a little more fussy about nice wipers than most people. I hate crappy or worn-out wipers.
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Nov 11, 2009 18:53
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johnny sack posted:Seriously. Me too. I just swap wipers in the spring and the fall. Summer heat kills them, and winter ice and road salt kill them. Its nice to see clearly... PA has weather. Yes we do.
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Nov 11, 2009 18:54
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I usually get about a year (in NJ, 4 full seasons) out of the RainX brand wiper blades. Not those goofy ultra expensive Lattitude ones, but the conventional ones. They're $9 or $10 each.
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Nov 11, 2009 20:49
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I typically go through two sets of wipers a year no matter what I bought. I'd get something just before winter because eight months of occasional rain would wear them out and then another set right after winter because four months of salt and snow would do them in. My OEM VW wipers are going on two years now and I think they'll last the winter. I just need to clean them every once in a while. Sure are worth the $20 each they go for. We put a new rear wiper on my dad's car and it doesn't get the top of the glass. Not the outside edge of the blade because it does the sides just fine, just the top of the arc. Need to figure out what's going on with that.
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Nov 11, 2009 20:54
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Are you saying the blade is long enough, but curves differently from the window, therefore not clearing the top of the window? Can you just apply some force to the blade in that direction to shape it to the window?
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Nov 11, 2009 21:37
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bladernr posted:This is EXACTLY why you buy older cars (other than collectors, or living out childhood fantasies). You buy them because you don't care if they fall apart in a few years. I have a 12-year-old E36 and I'm scared to death of it rusting. I live in the rust belt, and although the car was a California car for most of its life, I don't want it to rust. It's still in fantastic condition and I'd like to keep it that way. Does wax help stave off rust? I washed my car every week last winter and plan on doing it again this winter, but I'll put a fresh coat of wax on it if it'll help at all.
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Nov 11, 2009 22:21
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johnny sack posted:Are you saying the blade is long enough, but curves differently from the window, therefore not clearing the top of the window? Yeah, that's what it does. I'll try bending it next time I go outside.
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Nov 11, 2009 22:42
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The wiper blades that came with my girlfriend's 2008 Chevy lasted less than 3 months.
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Nov 11, 2009 22:46
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I've got a 2005 Toyota Matrix, Automatic, around 45k miles, great shape. I last drove it without any issues on Monday evening. Today (Wednesday), several things happened when I tried to start it: - All the lights came on like they should have - The brake pedal was ridiculously difficult to press - The car initially started to turn over, but afterwords I only heard quick, loud clicking noises - The car won't shift into neutral or park I've attempted to move the wheel around and continued pressing on the brake pedal, but all of the above things persisted except that now all I hear is a quick, loud, clicking noise when I try to start. Any ideas as to what's wrong?
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Nov 12, 2009 01:08
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My brother's been having a recurring problem with his 1998 Honda Accord 4-cyl automatic. When he leaves in the morning at 5am, his car starts fine (parked outside btw). But when he leaves school in the afternoon, it usually has trouble starting. He said it took ten minutes to start once (probably not a good idea to keep trying for ten minutes, but I wasn't there so whatever). Also, occasionally everything in his car resets, like his radio presets and clocks and trip odometer. I thought it might be a bad battery ground, so I disconnected and cleaned it, but that wouldn't explain why its fine in the morning but not in the afternoon, unless its coincidence. Any thoughts?
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Nov 12, 2009 02:04
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CornHolio posted:I have a 12-year-old E36 and I'm scared to death of it rusting. I live in the rust belt, and although the car was a California car for most of its life, I don't want it to rust. It's still in fantastic condition and I'd like to keep it that way. Thus you'd fall into the "collector" category that is excused  Really, take it with a grain of salt, but it seems that just frequent washing would be enough, provided you are sure to wash the underside very thoroughly. It's not having the salt there, it's the leaving it there long enough to eat things away. I do NOT live in the rust belt, per se, but I go to the coast frequent enough that salt water blown in on the wind constantly IS a fear of mine, and thus I always give the car a good wash after every trip. Never had a problem with rust, whereas I have known people who live at the coast and seldom wash their car to end up with all sorts of rust because they just let the salt water collect and sit for months... The effect is, i imagine, probably amplified if you live in a place with real snow that sees a LOT of salt and chemicals put down several times during the season... Someone else who lives up there gladly correct me if I'm wrong on this, but weekly washes are probably enough to stave off any issues (maybe 2x per week if theres a lot of salt being continuously spread...) As for waxing... I don't know if that spray on wax poo poo you get at the car wash is really worth anything... I've never seen it last more than one or two rainfalls on the body of a car, so I don't really see it lasting on the undercarriage for long either. Unless of course, you mean hand waxing, in which case, I want video of you doing it
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Nov 12, 2009 05:26
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johnny sack posted:I would be willing to bet the guy doesn't live somewhere with icy winters, though. Basically, winters destroy wipers every season. You get some ice on your windshield and have your blades go across them...then they're hosed. Ice? What ice? This is Texas, we got our oil and tornaders, we ain't git none o that ice poo poo. Well okay, we do get a little ice around new years, but not much. We do get a shitload of rain. Also, I'm only assuming the wipers were original... they were OEM, and the previous owner never changed anything else on the thing except the oil. They looked pretty worn when I got it, but still worked pretty good.
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Nov 12, 2009 05:43
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CornHolio posted:I have a 12-year-old E36 and I'm scared to death of it rusting. I live in the rust belt, and although the car was a California car for most of its life, I don't want it to rust. It's still in fantastic condition and I'd like to keep it that way. Wash it, with an under carriage wash regularly. Some people swear by various oil coatings for the bottom as well, but I dunno. Also worth doing an inspection of the bottom bit every year to look for surface rust and damage to the rust proofing and fixing it.
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Nov 12, 2009 08:30
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I am looking to get a service manual for a 2003 Kia Spectra GS, but I can't find one online or on eBay. All I found was a "Factory Electrical Wiring Manual" which is incomplete. I want one for the entire car, not just the wires. Any help with pointing me in the right direction would be appreciated!
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Nov 12, 2009 10:05
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pacheco posted:I am looking to get a service manual for a 2003 Kia Spectra GS, but I can't find one online or on eBay. All I found was a "Factory Electrical Wiring Manual" which is incomplete. I want one for the entire car, not just the wires. Yes! I found this site a month ago looking for info about a Kia Sportage: http://www.kiatechinfo.com/index.asp It has all the info you could want about every Kia made. It's free with a registration and it's just as good as the $80 VW manual I bought for my car. It just doesn't like FireFox, so use IE.
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Nov 12, 2009 17:26
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Polynomial posted:I've got a 2005 Toyota Matrix, Automatic, around 45k miles, great shape. I last drove it without any issues on Monday evening. Today (Wednesday), several things happened when I tried to start it: Never mind, it was the battery.
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Nov 12, 2009 20:16
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Hey, thanks a lot! This is what I was looking for.
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Nov 13, 2009 02:35
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Am I stupid for wanting to spend $120 on a sweet set of OEM tape stripes for my XT? Like the black-red fade on this one:
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Nov 13, 2009 04:34
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I actually test drove the '10 Camaro today and it wound up being kind of a claustrophobic experience for me. http://tinyurl.com/yzgppvx Of course I'm dialing back the years and budget a bit for this (although it comes about in line of what I was going to drop into a beater until the next Camaro5 version) but I sorta dig the look of the '02. Carfax looks clean, the car looks in fine shape, and $7K seems fair. Any opinions?
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Nov 13, 2009 04:53
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Matlock posted:I actually test drove the '10 Camaro today and it wound up being kind of a claustrophobic experience for me.  Two cylinders short!
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Nov 13, 2009 04:59
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Matlock posted:until the next Camaro5 version The next Camaro5?
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Nov 13, 2009 05:06
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Upcoming revisions of the 5th gen Camaro are due to add features like the Corvette HUD and fix current issues.
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Nov 13, 2009 05:10
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