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Sponge! posted:If you clean it up I think I can fix it for you. I'll do the same thing for you I'm doing for Pipkin. Parts and shipping cost and that's it. You're a loving hero! Seriously!
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Nov 7, 2009 09:05
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Blaster of Justice posted:You're a loving hero! Seriously! I usually do tabletop and freestanding tube radio stuff, and have the master schematic collection for them. I'm putting out feelers with my connections to see if I know anyone who has automobile receiver schematics. Even without a schematic I can still do it, its just easier with.
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Nov 7, 2009 09:47
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See this, this is what makes AI and SA so drat awesome  Got the most  feelings here right now
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Nov 7, 2009 11:55
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Sponge! posted:I usually do tabletop and freestanding tube radio stuff, and have the master schematic collection for them. I'm putting out feelers with my connections to see if I know anyone who has automobile receiver schematics. Even without a schematic I can still do it, its just easier with. I'm pretty sure these idiots might be able to help you finding schematics: http://www.westernwireless.ca/ Still, you're an absolutely hosed beyond any repair insane nerd for offering the OP to fix this radio, but I admire your kind of insanity. If the OP doesn't take you up on this offer, I think he should be shot and then banned for being dead.
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Nov 7, 2009 12:04
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Blaster of Justice posted:I'm pretty sure these idiots might be able to help you finding schematics: http://www.westernwireless.ca/ I'll contact them once I can positively ID the radio/chassis models. And you may think I'm insane, but I think sockington is insane with the rust he tackles. Nothing is beyond repair if you have the dedication to it. 
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Nov 7, 2009 12:12
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Mooecow posted:The typeface on those gauges is amazing
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Nov 7, 2009 12:42
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Sponge! posted:If you clean it up I think I can fix it for you. I'll do the same thing for you I'm doing for Pipkin. Parts and shipping cost and that's it. I might have to take you up on that. Give the shape that it is in, it would take a boatload of work to get it working again. Here are a couple more pictures of its inside. I didn't see any markings or numbers anywhere on it. Let me know if there is anything else you want a picture of, or if you want high res of anything.    Now stepping away from the vacuum tubes, I attached new bumper brackets to the Divco bumper. The dairy just welded the old brackets onto the bumper, so I have to drill a couple 1/2" holes through the bumper and a part of the old bracket. Thats well over a 1/4" of metal, fun.  You can see that I have to bend the brackets inward a bit to get them to line up on the frame.  For reference, that is a 1/2" carriage bolt. The stock bumper weighs a little under 10lbs, the Divco bumper is 45lbs. Yay weight distribution!
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Nov 8, 2009 00:49
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Wow, something amazes me about that radio, probably because it's so old and ratty. What do those numbers (55, 70, etc.) mean?
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Nov 8, 2009 01:37
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Pilsner posted:Wow, something amazes me about that radio, probably because it's so old and ratty. Multiply them by 10 for the AM frequencies it would be capable of picking up. 
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Nov 8, 2009 01:40
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Totally fixable. The electronics end of it is in good shape. Its a real easy one because it is just a mono AM broadcast (medium wave for you non US folks) receiver.
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Nov 8, 2009 02:07
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Pilsner posted:Wow, something amazes me about that radio, probably because it's so old and ratty. AM radio wavelengths in Khz. This thread is all sorts of awesome
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Nov 8, 2009 04:05
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If/when you shake the junk out of the inside of the radio in the back to clean it, sweep it into a baggie and save it in case there's anything important rolling around in there. Sometimes there is. I may need it. I promise only to put the important and necessary magic dirt back inside it. And unlike wiring harness smoke, Vacuum doesn't escape, per-se. More of a dilution I guess...
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Nov 8, 2009 04:19
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Is that radio actually fixable as you guys claim? It looks like a rusted out hulk. It will have to be completely disassembled and cleaned up with tons of filler, that is if it doesn't turn to dust the moment you start to take it apart.
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Nov 8, 2009 04:19
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Some Guy From NY posted:Is that radio actually fixable as you guys claim? It looks like a rusted out hulk. It will have to be completely disassembled and cleaned up with tons of filler, that is if it doesn't turn to dust the moment you start to take it apart. In all seriousness its structurally sound. That's patina, not rust... It sat out in new england summers and winters, not exposed per-se, but ambient humidity. As to fix-ability, there's only a handful of parts inside there. Being AM only it is literally only marginally more complicated than a crystal radio.(RF Amplifier(maybe) Oscillator (455KHz), Mixer(Heterodyne), Detector, AF amplifier.) Hell the most complex bit is the push-button tuning, and that's mechanical not electrical. The only thing not "fixable" in it that needs outright replaced is the speaker. The paper cone biodegraded long ago. The good news is being a mobile DC set it is just a normal speaker, not one of the fancy ones where the field coil doubled as the filter choke on the power supply like you find in older AC freestanding sets...
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Nov 8, 2009 04:28
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Sponge! posted:If I may derail for one moment, I would like to ask you about tube radios. I am looking at several table top units and would like to know more about getting one possibly fixed up? I am not sure if you are interested in helping a joe blow out but I would gladly pay parts and labor. I don't have PMs, could I e-mail you about this? I really want to be able to pick up ball games on the AM dial over one of these while sitting on my recliner in my reading room.
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Nov 8, 2009 05:34
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The Anal Pirate posted:If I may derail for one moment, I would like to ask you about tube radios. I am looking at several table top units and would like to know more about getting one possibly fixed up? I am not sure if you are interested in helping a joe blow out but I would gladly pay parts and labor. I don't have PMs, could I e-mail you about this? I really want to be able to pick up ball games on the AM dial over one of these while sitting on my recliner in my reading room. Sending your mail to the mailbox of "goonmail" at the domain of kittenshateyou.com will get to me. Obfuscated to prevent harvesting...
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Nov 9, 2009 05:51
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Oh man, I completely forgot about this thread, it's come so far til I last saw it. You're doing an incredible job and I love the color!
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Nov 9, 2009 06:03
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Sponge! posted:Sending your mail to the mailbox of "goonmail" at the domain of kittenshateyou.com will get to me. Obfuscated to prevent harvesting... Mail sent.
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Nov 9, 2009 06:10
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Time for another update. The door gaps have been bugging me lately. I needed to test the door strikers and latches, so I figured I might as well kill 2 birds with 1 stone. Overall the gaps aren't perfect, but they are passable. The gap on the upper right corner of the door is a bit larger than I'd like, but attempting to close that gap knocks all the other gaps out of whack.  It started to rain before I could test hang the other door, hopefully I will be able to do it on Sunday. I found out that either the striker or latch is broken.  When it latches the door can still be pulled outward a bit.In case it was the strikers, I decided to stop off by the parts truck and grab them. I actually remembered to grab my camera this time:   You can see some of the thousands of rivets holding the cab together in the first picture. Believe it or not, the pics actually make the truck look to be in better shape than it is.   I also grabbed the heater out of it while I was there. It is a factory fresh air heater that takes in air via the passenger side cowl. Like everything else, its quite rusty but hopefully it is salavagable. According to this website it doesn't seem all that complicated. Hopefully the core is still good on it. And too finish up, I also worked on getting the interior ready for painting. All the areas that are covered by the headliner and other misc trim will be getting Por-15ed. Everywhere else is getting the Dark Bronze Rustoleum.  On the engine front, I am probably going to just bite the bullet and have a 235 trucked in. I looked into doing to 250/292 route but there was too much work involved then it was worth. I am going to just Por-15 the firewall and shoot a few coats of Rustoleum gloss black on it. 
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Nov 14, 2009 00:57
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Honestly, those door gaps probably look just as good as when it rolled out of the factory. You did really well, given what you had to start with, give yourself a big pat on the back. I hope the door gaps on my project turn out half as well, and mine is 30 years newer.
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Nov 14, 2009 07:48
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Mooecow posted:The door gaps have been bugging me lately. I wouldn't worry about the door gaps. We are redoing a 55 Chevy pickup and it took two weeks to get the gaps looking as good as you have them. I highly doubt the gaps were perfect coming off the assembly line in 53. Your doing great work here and this is one of my favorite project threads to see updated. Keep posting pictures!!
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Nov 14, 2009 19:15
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The weather almost torpedoed my plans today, but the sun came out just in time. The firewall got a coat of Por-15 followed by a few thin coats of Rustoleum gloss black. The interior got Por-15 in hidden areas and clean metal primer everywhere else. I still have to break out the filler to smooth out a couple welds on the cowl panels and on spot on the dash. Then I get to put down the final color coat on the interior.     Sponge, I'll drop you an email once I clean up the radio.
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Nov 15, 2009 23:48
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Have been following this thread from the start, just wanted to say awesome job man!
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Nov 16, 2009 03:56
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Every time you update, I'm more and more amazed at the transformation from rust bucket to actual truck.
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Nov 16, 2009 03:57
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Started painting the interior today. The camera is having a hell of a time correctly taking a decent picture of the color. These are the closest to real that I could get.   Unfortunately I have to break out the filler before I can do the inner cowls and dash board. Hopefully it will cure alright at 60 degrees.
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Nov 18, 2009 02:11
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I don't care what anyone says, but looking on page one and then those pictures is jaw dropping. Inspirational work and really in a very short time too!
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Nov 18, 2009 04:25
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Agreed, I don't like to clutter threads like these, but that's some amazing work. Inspirational, no doubt.
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Nov 18, 2009 18:20
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 Can you guess why I included the picture above? If you can, congratulations you have drat good eyesight. Anyway, I filled in the hole in the dash, where the strobe indicator light was and painted the dash. The filled area isn't quite perfect, but you can't tell unless you look at it just right. I also went through and seam sealed where the inner-cowls meet the floor, and the seams between the new and old toe boards. I still have a lot more to seal, but of course I need to go buy more seam sealer . I have been thinking about the front kingpins. As much as I don't want to , I think I am going to have them replaced. While they are still technically within spec, the truck could use as much help as it can in the steering department. I'd rather not have the front end swaying around. Of course, this means taking the axle back off the frame and having it reamed. Dreaded finals are now upon me, so updates will be few and far between for a while.
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Nov 23, 2009 00:24
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You are really rockin' and rollin' with this truck. Great job so far. Still looking for an engine?
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Nov 23, 2009 03:42
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Some Guy From NY posted:
Yea, finding a 235 in good shape in New England is alot harder than I thought it would be. I'm looking buy to one that I looked at already, but its been sitting a few years. I was hoping to avoid an engine that had been sitting. If anyone knows of a good 235 for sale let me know.
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Nov 25, 2009 00:31
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I haven't seen an engine, but you should invest in these go-fast bits: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=413868
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Nov 25, 2009 17:43
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MrSaturn posted:I haven't seen an engine, but you should invest in these go-fast bits: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=413868 That forum is probably a good place to put up a WTB thread for a 235. The HAMB is a great resource for older car and trucks, but you really need to follow all the rules and do an intro thread.
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Nov 26, 2009 18:39
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I've been watching the HAMB like a hawk for a few months, but everything that has popped up has been on the wrong coast. I am still waiting to hear back from the guy who has an engine I already looked at a few months ago. Now it seems he wants to sell the engine and parts truck together. Given I don't have time/room for another truck, that isn't going to fly. Time will tell... Anyway,  I gave in and started stripping the front axle, again. I knew I would kick myself later if I didn't have the kingpins changed now when I have the chance. Of course, since its a 3/4 ton, the new bushings need to be reamed in. This takes longer, thus it isn't exactly cheap to have them changed. I got a quote for 2-3 hours at $85 an hour and about $300. That is just labor, the parts themselves are about $60. It just keeps adding up. In happier news, the steering column has been painted and installed. I filled the box up with the dreaded gear oil and it didn't leak at all. When I opened it up to put on the new gasket, I had to back off an adjuster bolt, so now there is a massive dead zone in the steering. Hopefully the adjuster doesn't have to be exactly right. Also, 10 rust points* to the first person who can tell me whats up with the small pic in my previous post. *Rust points have no value whatsoever, despite what Sockington may insist.
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Nov 29, 2009 00:49
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Mooecow posted:
Is that your truck on the far right?
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Nov 29, 2009 00:52
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ab0z posted:Is that your truck on the far right? We have a winner. The white roof gave it away didn't it?
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Nov 29, 2009 00:57
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Yeah, and then I compared the backgrounds in the first photos you posted and figured it out.
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Nov 29, 2009 00:59
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Mooecow posted:
Shouldn't you have waited to install the gauges before the steering column? looks like it may be in the way.
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Nov 29, 2009 01:10
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Some Guy From NY posted:Shouldn't you have waited to install the gauges before the steering column? looks like it may be in the way. You would think so but having the column actually helps a bit. It gives me something to grab onto when I am wedged underneath the dash. The steering wheel isn't permanently attached so overall it doesn't take up much room. I just put the wheel on so I could sit on a stool and make engine noises. 
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Nov 29, 2009 01:24
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Mooecow posted:I just put the wheel on so I could sit on a stool and make engine noises. When I was at my garage 2 nights ago I sat in my Z for the same purpose.
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Nov 29, 2009 01:30
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Hypothetically, if I was to be picking up a 235 on Sunday, what would be the safest way to secure it? I was thinking about using a dead tire and just sitting it on top of that and using a couple of ratcheting tie downs to hold it in place. I only have to hypothetically go 30 miles, so that should be fine, right?
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Dec 8, 2009 03:40
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