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The more arcane they make it, the more likely they'll get people bringing them into the dealer to program and paying $80 for a few second's work.
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Nov 16, 2009 16:05
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I swear, if I had to do all of this because of a crooked seal in the airbox around the heater core.... Work in progress. edit Note the white blend door on the right side. Note that the left side it is not there.  Oh hooray, cracked plastic gear in the blend door motor.  This part is $126 on Rockauto, holy poo poo. Honestly, I want to get this back together today. Let's try gorilla gluing that gear back together. More info http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php/topic,41201.0.html edit edit - Gorilla glue did not work. I don't consider it lost time however. I had no way to get to the store to buy quick set epoxy. Now I have epoxy. If this doesnt work, then gently caress it, I'll manually close the blend door so that I have heat. Its winter and that's all I need anyway. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Nov 16, 2009 |
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Nov 16, 2009 19:33
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My 240 wagon just got a new starter (and associated wiring), new inner and outer tie rods, and rear trailing arm bushings. Most amusingly, though, I have removed the rear seat and replaced it with a flip-up shelf to provide a longer flat bed for hauling plus hidden storage beneath. (and, of course, a suitable couch for my garage.) (plywood covered with some leftover cedar planks)  (flip up to access crap) 
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Nov 17, 2009 00:02
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FogHelmut posted:
  I had to pull my dash apart to do the heater core, and I put in a new blend door actuator while I had it apart because before my heater core exploded, I had nothing but heat. Got everything back together and there aren't any leaks, but the motherfucking blend door isn't moving, and it's stuck on cold. I've got to pull the dash off again and figure out what the hell is wrong. What makes it particularly horrible is the only way to test is to put the dash back together, and if I don't fix it the first time..
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Nov 17, 2009 00:44
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Replaced the oil pan gasket on my car. The filthiest most miserable poo poo I've done in a long time, and it was all for nothing because it was the return line from the oil filter canister leaking, not the oil pan! This weekend I'll be doing my shocks. Ought to feel really nice considering the ones in there now are only about 10% functional at best. The factory springs are probably pretty worn out too after 150k, but it's an automatic 525i so it's not like it's going anywhere near a track any time soon.
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Nov 17, 2009 00:44
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Hypnolobster posted:
I was able to plug in my HVAC control unit without the dash to test things. Are you able to do that? Anyway, I ran out of daylight. I don't have time to put it back together until tomorrow. I hope I remember where everything goes.
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Nov 17, 2009 13:21
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Hypnolobster posted:Got everything back together and there aren't any leaks, but the motherfucking blend door isn't moving, and it's stuck on cold. I've got to pull the dash off again and figure out what the hell is wrong. What makes it particularly horrible is the only way to test is to put the dash back together, and if I don't fix it the first time.. Are you sure the motors are working? On a Jeep you have to cut the power (pull the battery lead), wait a few seconds, then reconnect the battery and turn the key to Run. The motor should then go through its seek cycle, so you can see if it's working.
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Nov 17, 2009 15:56
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I'm going to try to run the HVAC controls with the dash out. I didn't do it before because I was already under the assumption that I'd fixed it. I'll have to hold up the column and plug the ignition and such back in. Also, I had the battery cable off when I did it, and I threw it back on and as I recall I didn't start it at first checked all the dash lights. I didn't see anything mentioned on crownvic.net about a restart procedure but I'll check again. I suppose there's a possibility that I knocked off a vacuum line, too. I actually have no idea how the whole vacuum/plenum/crazyness operates.
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Nov 17, 2009 17:51
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Hypnolobster posted:I suppose there's a possibility that I knocked off a vacuum line, too. I actually have no idea how the whole vacuum/plenum/crazyness operates. Hope and blood and tears and duct-tape usually.
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Nov 17, 2009 21:19
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I had a really busy weekend. On Saturday I was under the E36 325i -Oil Change -Wiper adjustment -Computer reset -Replaced shocks/struts all around (Bilstein HD's  )-Also replaced rear shock mounts and grommets with the Meyle reinforced ones. Put the Turner Racing reinforcements above the rear shock towers and the OEM reinforcements on the front towers. -Replaced my lower control arm bushings. -Machined my rotors all around. Sunday was E30 325i Day. We're preparing it for general track duty or to run at LeMons, depending on our acceptance into the series. -Stripped the interior, including the carpets, door panels, headliner and dash/console. We got the whole thing down to a metal shell in one day. It was quite impressive, actually. Last night I bought a new stereo for the E36, including a new direct receiver box for Sirius radio. I'll install that tonight. Whew, tired! 
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Nov 17, 2009 21:26
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Sponge! posted:Hope and blood and tears and duct-tape usually. Seriously, if I can't fix it this time, I'm going to thread some mechanics wire and a coathanger to the end of the blend door so I can reach over under the passenger side dash and adjust the heat.
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Nov 18, 2009 03:30
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Hypnolobster posted:Seriously, if I can't fix it this time, I'm going to thread some mechanics wire and a coathanger to the end of the blend door so I can reach over under the passenger side dash and adjust the heat. Get a gearshift thing off of a bicycle... Working adjustable ratio blend door.
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Nov 18, 2009 03:32
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Sponge! posted:Get a gearshift thing off of a bicycle... Working adjustable ratio blend door. This is starting to sound like a cooler idea than actually fixing it.
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Nov 18, 2009 03:36
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Hypnolobster posted:This is starting to sound like a cooler idea than actually fixing it. Some ghetto-fixes just are the best. e: Check Comrade Flynne's S2000 "stumbling/stalling" thread for examples.
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Nov 18, 2009 04:00
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I charged the battery, and started the truck for the first time in almost a year. One of the tires was low on air, so I filled it up, cleaned the windows/mirrors a bit, drove it a mile or so. Easy peasy day working on the truck.
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Nov 18, 2009 04:00
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Got the '94 on the dyno Kept the boost conservative at 24psi made 636rwhp 510tq http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CyFlRiheZg Also changed a fog light and a interior light.
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Nov 18, 2009 06:47
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Installed a remote starter on my '92 Cutlass Ciera. The lock, unlock, and trunk triggers were all negative-only (oh well, it was only $50 on Ebay), but my car uses all positive triggers for these, so I got to wire up an ugly mess of relays for reversing polarity.
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Nov 18, 2009 18:38
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FogHelmut posted:I swear, if I had to do all of this because of a crooked seal in the airbox around the heater core.... Reassembled this mess. Is it common for cars to have extra wire harnesses that don't connect to anything? I found a couple that never were connected, and had nothing to connect to. I ended up with an extra screw that goes somewhere, but it's all back together so who cares. And I lost the retainer clips that the bolts for the center console go into somewhere down into the body of the car. So the center console is only half bolted in. Regardless, epoxying the gear worked, sorta. The gear held together but the epoxy was too thick for it to work properly. So it only works half way. So what I ended up doing was switching the driver's side and passenger side actuators. Now the driver's side works, but the passenger side doesn't. This isn't a problem, however, because I can access the passenger side actuator simply by removing the glove compartment. Which is a shitload easier than taking the whole interior out of the car to get to the driver's side actuator. And apparently this actuator is in every GM car from the last 12 years that has automatic climate control. So its easy to find despite being a ridiculous $125 for a new one. So at some point I'll hit up a junkyard, grab a new actuator and some of those clips for the center console.
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Nov 18, 2009 20:48
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FogHelmut posted:
Know anybody that's good with a lathe and an end mill? I'm sure some beer could be exchanged for some metal replacements. Take that lovely GM engineering! :P Edit: I'm talking cutting gears. Not the clips.
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Nov 18, 2009 21:25
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Not today, but over the weekend I drove the hell out of it at VIR with Audi Club. The picture is by the wife of a buddy who was in my run group. It was my first time in the blue group, and I was a bit intimidated going in. The faster drivers gave my turn signals a workout throughout the weekend, and there were two instances of cars dumping coolant onto the track (sending two cars into the walls), but overall I had a great time.
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Nov 18, 2009 22:02
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Oneiric posted:Got the '94 on the dyno Please post a dyno chart. I want to see how the power curve just shoots up in the top-end after a totally stagnant low-end. Anyways, sounds great once it gets hammered on, living vicariously through you.
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Nov 19, 2009 04:53
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Got new wheels. The rear shocks, it turns out, were not just low on air but are totally dead, so it sags and rubs on the rears a bit on bumps. Work in progress! Already had some hammer time with the inner fenders, but more might be necessary if new shocks don't help as much as I want them too. (cross posted from cell phone pics thread) Click here for the full 1280x960 image.  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. Featuring the results of some irritable drunk fuckhead (probably)!
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Nov 19, 2009 22:49
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New front shocks in the e34. The old ones were just about completely gone. I can move them through about 75% of their stroke with no resistance at all, and then it's nice and jerky and bubbly throughout the rest. People recommend removing the big collar the holds the strut in the housing with a pipe wrench. I don't know how the hell this is possible, since it's just smooth and circular and crushing the threads tighter can't help. An air hammer into one of the removal tool holes works it off like butter. Only needed to do this on one side though as the other was just sitting there like halfway screwed down. Arizona owns though. Was able to remove every bolt with just a 3/8" ratchet with no cheaters, and my can of PB Blaster remains full.
Lowclock fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Nov 21, 2009 |
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Nov 21, 2009 03:09
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I waxed my car last Sunday, and today I white lithium greased all the door hinges on both cars. I also wiped all the door seals with the stuff so hopefully they don't freeze shut this winter.
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Nov 21, 2009 21:31
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Nothing worthwhile. Replaced a dead DRLs and both headlamps since one went south and didn't want mismatched ranges since I couldn't get just a standard 3100k w/o ordering it. Oh, I also refilled my washing and blinker fluid  Ordered replacement heated seat switches; tested them and got a nasty arc from driver's side, so pulled fuse until I replace those. Good thing it's cold now.
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Nov 22, 2009 02:12
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Today I snapped the PCV valve on my rocker cover 
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Nov 22, 2009 03:34
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I disassembled the drivers side headlamp assembly in the Saab 9-3. The three posts that hold the projector in place are broken so I epoxied them back in place. Hopefully they hold up because I don't want to spend $700 for a new xenon assembly. I am thinking about swapping them with halogen assemblies which are considerably less expensive. I butchered the housing getting it apart so hopefully I can get it back together again. Here are the epoxied parts. 
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Nov 22, 2009 04:49
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I replaced the fuel filter and cruise control cable on my sister's car today. Then I forgot and left the vacuum system disconnected on the 19 mile test run, so it was acting all wonky. Tomorrow, seafoam in the gas, and in the brake booster line.
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Nov 22, 2009 06:24
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Yesterday, I finally got the exhaust to converter bolts out of my Prelude's shot exhaust system. Not having a torch, air tools, or any of the other fun things that make jobs like this easy, I had to resort to more crude methods. So, I placed a stubby wrench on the nut to keep the whole thing from spinning, and a ratchet on the bolt. Then I put a floor jack under the ratchet and kept raising / lowering the jack until something gave. Two of the three bolts snapped in half, but I got them all out. I didn't even break my ratchet! Then, I unwrapped the new exhaust only to find the thinnest, most poorly applied, generally atrocious paint I've ever seen "protecting" my new exhaust system. There were scrapes in it down to the metal. Not wanting to be doing this again in 6 months after it rusts out again due to lovely paint coverage, I opted to strip the existing paint and apply much better stuff, and more of it. Of course, that meant that I couldn't continue this project this weekend. So, on to the next thing on the list then. My 840 needed an oil change before I drive to Michigan on Wednesday, plus I wanted to inspect the oil pump bolts. So, I dropped the pan off...  Hmm, what's wrong here...   Holy poo poo Apparently it had been there a while. Long enough for the bolt rattling around in the pan to wear a thread mark into it at least. At least, I assume that's what that is from. So, added some red Loc-tite to the bolts and reinstalled them, put a new pan gasket in place, and slapped it all back together. No leaks yet 
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Nov 23, 2009 02:59
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Well, yesterday I dropped the gas tank on my 99 Jeep GC and finally fixed the fuel pump gasket. The PO had apparently tried to do the same thing at one point, but (like the transmission pan) he folded the gasket when he put it back in. On top of that, the retaining ring was just bouncing around - it wasn't even screwed on! No wonder it leaked. Of course, I make it sound easy. It took me 3 hours to get the drat trailer hitch off because I was trying to do it the right way and remove the rear fascia. Well, I had to take most of the rear end apart. Every piece I had to remove was covered by another piece. I ended up in the rear seat at one point. There I was, in the rear seat, removing poo poo so I could take off the trailer hitch.  In the end I admitted defeat because I couldn't find the retaining clips that there are no pictures of anywhere. All the instructions say is to "take off the D pillar molding and peel back the rubber seal" to get at them. Well, I couldn't find a loving rubber seal anywhere, I have no idea what the gently caress. I finally just gave up and pulled the hitch out by pulling back the lower end of the fascia. Getting it back in will be fun. 
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Nov 23, 2009 16:10
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Bringing new meaning to "That'll buff out!" Just a little buff on the new (old) Scout 800. It was the most oxidized paint I have ever seen. Surprisingly, it buffed out really well. Sadly, the body work underneath is HORRIBLE. It looks good from 20', though! I also pulled a lifter, and rebuilt it, last night. It was clacking so loudly that I was afraid it was a rod knock.    
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Nov 26, 2009 02:03
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Goddamn that really did buff out pretty good.
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Nov 26, 2009 03:43
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Your Scout looks amazing. How did you do that? I mean, what compound did you use, and how long did that take?
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Nov 26, 2009 04:17
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I just got it off ebay, from Texas, a couple months ago. Today was the first time I had a second to really do anything. I tried to get it registered, but the county clerk's office was out of collector vehicle plates. ??? Anyway. Baking in the TX sun for who knows how many years baked the crap out of that poor (crappy) paint job. The body work and paint are actually terrible, but look passable in the pictures. The overall condition is very solid, though, with minimal rust (for any ~43 year old vehicle, let alone a Scout). Luckily, it looks ok, because it isn't getting any more work until a full tear-down, after my other Scout is done... I just used a medium machine compound, and foam pad. It ate the pad up a bit. I didn't even bother with a final buff, or wash, or wax. I'm pretty clean with the buffer, as you can see  There were some slight swirl marks on the driver's side door. I may get motivated and do a quick buff with some finishing compound, but it probably won't make things look better. I should probably wax it at some point too. Once a paint gets baked like that, it tends to go back to that state pretty easily/quickly.I'll check the specific compound in the morning, but I think it was this: http://www.levineautoparts.com/3mperiirubco.html For finishing, I use this: http://www.levineautoparts.com/3mfiniifinma.html
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Nov 26, 2009 04:38
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I finally got my new tires mounted & balanced, and a full alignment done. About time, too. My old tires were largely treadless. You could rub your finger down the center tread and it was smooth as silk. I got a set of Kumho Road Venture tires. I love them. For reference in tire quality, the OEM tires were ContiTrac and the next set were discount Cyclone.
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Nov 26, 2009 07:10
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I had the stock muffler changed over to a sports muffler half the size. It's got a nice burble now but I need to take it in to get it's timing belt done. It backfired massively when I thrashed the new muffler. And while I was under the car I found some rust on the inside of the rear quarter panel so I'll need to get that sorted.
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Nov 27, 2009 00:28
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CatBus posted:Bringing new meaning to "That'll buff out!" Holy poo poo. The before pictures look like its painted in primer. Looks great now.
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Nov 27, 2009 08:40
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CatBus posted:Bringing new meaning to "That'll buff out!" That is absolutely incredible. If I saw those pictures without captions, I'd think that was a before and after painting shots. That is by far the worst oxidation I've ever seen, it looks like it was painted with grey primer 10 years ago in the before pics, and the paint looks great in the afters.
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Nov 27, 2009 09:17
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Just changed my battery terminals. Had been getting the electrical gremlins that some WJs get, so I figured I'd start with the easy stuff. There was a lot of corrosion when I pulled the suckers off, actually, so I feel pretty good about this being the culprit. Cleaned the cables, applied dielectric grease, put marine-grade terminals on it, and even got some of those anti-corrosion pad dealies. Looks a whole lot better, so we'll see if it helps.
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Nov 28, 2009 00:54
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Doctor Zero posted:Just changed my battery terminals. Had been getting the electrical gremlins that some WJs get, so I figured I'd start with the easy stuff. There was a lot of corrosion when I pulled the suckers off, actually, so I feel pretty good about this being the culprit. Cleaned the cables, applied dielectric grease, put marine-grade terminals on it, and even got some of those anti-corrosion pad dealies. All my girlfriends electrical problems went away when I did this. Sometimes the easy things work, and it's awesome.
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Nov 28, 2009 05:24
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