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CornHolio posted:What do you guys think of the new Mini Cooper Coupe? They say it will be made.  These cars are a peace offering to all the angry Mini fans to offset the Countryman. The Coupe and Speedster make perfect sense because they can introduce two new models for very little investment since these are so heavily based on the regular Cooper. I like the concepts quite a bit, both in design and intent. But the production Toyota FT-86 will be out by the time these are available and I think that might be the better impractical, somewhat low cost car.
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Nov 23, 2009 03:08
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BossTweed posted:Alright, I'm having an overheating issue with my 1997 M3 that I've owned since August. #1) Fill your coolant to the line, the sensors always go bad. Use your eyes. #2) What does "all the suggested cooling system replacement" mean? Waterpump/T-stat/Housing/gasket but not radiator? #3) The Aux fan won't come on until you've exceeded 91C or so. These go bad too, so consider swapping it out -- it's a 2-minute job. #4) The E36 main fans are usually fine, I've never had a car with a bad one, and I've had everything from a 10-92 build E36 through an '02 E46. #5) It won't flow unless you rev the engine, and you can't rev the engine by tugging on the throttle cable, at least not on my '99. Get a helper to rev it with the overflow cap off and see what you can see. I'd strongly recommend you spend the $300-400 to replace the whole works, as Jorsh so flippantly recommended. You'll end up replacing the entire cooling system, the belts, and (not necessary but you could do it easily) the tensioners. It takes ~5 hrs your first time, 2 hrs thereafter. Sterndotstern fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Nov 23, 2009 |
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Nov 23, 2009 04:15
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Thanks for the information guys. The previous owner replaced the water pump, fan clutch, hoses, thermostat, thermostat housing and accessory belts at 37,000 miles (in 2006), and I'm at 68,000 now. I don't have time to do the whole update right now, so I will look at topping off the coolant, bleeding the system, and replacing the temperature sensor/switch and see if that helps. I can reproduce it pretty easily it seems so I should be able to tell if it helps. That's good to know about the coolant flow, I will get my wife to ref the engine for me, I was worried there for a minute. Thanks again.
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Nov 23, 2009 05:18
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BossTweed posted:Thanks for the information guys. The previous owner replaced the water pump, fan clutch, hoses, thermostat, thermostat housing and accessory belts at 37,000 miles (in 2006), and I'm at 68,000 now.
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Nov 23, 2009 05:57
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So it needs a tranny.  They got the initial diag done, but are going to call back with pricing. Since I work at the Ford store across the street, and it's had all it's work done there, it seems like they're going to try and work with the pricing, but I'm expecting the worst now.I'll prolly swing by after work, and see what they say about exacts, and see if it's worth calling BMWNA to try and get some assistance.
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Nov 23, 2009 20:35
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UnmaskedGremlin posted:So it needs a tranny. Condolences, amigo. That's tough to take.
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Nov 23, 2009 20:58
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Well it's most likely not the IACV. I pulled the hose and hooked it up, and from what I can see, it can at least hold itself well in the only position that it can go without running the engine. Recap. At first when I start the car, it seems to idle just fine. After about 15 seconds or so, it gets really rough. This isn't my video, but mine sounds exactly like this. Tried disconnecting the both the MAF and O2 sensor, no change. Pulling coils all seem to have the same effect of it getting a little bit rougher. Pulled plugs and they all look healthy, normal brown deposits. All the electrical tests I can find are fine. TPS, MAF, coils, injectors. One thing seems to have changed now though. Earlier in the thread I checked my FPR and was getting almost 4 bar base pressure. Now I have (what I think is correct by TIS?) like 3.2bar base pressure, that only fluctuates a very tiny amount when dis/connected from a vacuum source, as opposed to before when the base pressure was around 3.9bar and fuel pressure moved about .7bar which is normal for the FPR. Pinching the return line will build more fuel pressure like it should. I'm assuming it's lean because if I pull the air boot and cap the idle control valve hose so it's just a very small hole, it runs fantastic. Very smooth and quiet idle, better than it ever has while driving. This should mean it's not an ignition issue at least. If I cap it completely, it produces a lot of vacuum and stalls. If I leave it wide open, it runs lovely like the video. Exactly the same if I have the air boot and all the other vacuum sources hooked up. Again MAF or O2 being hooked up makes very little/no difference. Still the only code I'm getting from the stomp test is 1221 for O2 sensor (bad? rich? lean? who knows?). I'd just like to get some insight from someone else because I don't want to just throw parts at it. I'm guessing at this point it pretty much has to be fuel delivery related, most likely the FPR. Anyone think I'm right/wrong or have any ideas? TLDR My car runs like poo poo like in the linked video, and all diagnostic steps turn up fine. No vacuum leaks, and with a restricted idle circuit, it runs beautifully. FPR tests slightly out of spec. Help!
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Nov 24, 2009 03:39
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Lowclock posted:Well it's most likely not the IACV. I pulled the hose and hooked it up, and from what I can see, it can at least hold itself well in the only position that it can go without running the engine. Recap. this may be an obvious suggestion that you've already done, but did you check the coils?
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Nov 24, 2009 03:47
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Lowclock posted:Well it's most likely not the IACV. I pulled the hose and hooked it up, and from what I can see, it can at least hold itself well in the only position that it can go without running the engine. Recap. It might just be the way the sound turned out on that video, but it sounds like that car has a massive underhood vacuum leak - like it's sucking lots of air somewhere. That would gently caress the idle up pretty good.
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Nov 24, 2009 04:26
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flublandDrussiavelt posted:this may be an obvious suggestion that you've already done, but did you check the coils? As much as I can I guess. The primary windings were all .8ohms on all the coils. The stumbling goes away when I restrict the intake, and it runs very very smooth, so I'm assuming more of a mixture issue than a miss. Black88GTA posted:It might just be the way the sound turned out on that video, but it sounds like that car has a massive underhood vacuum leak - like it's sucking lots of air somewhere. That would gently caress the idle up pretty good. Yes I heard that to and forgot to comment that I do have a kind of sucking noise, but in real life it's nowhere near as loud as that video. I believe it's just air rushing around the valve in the IACV. I've taken more than a full can of carb cleaner and sprayed around every hose or junction I can find, and I don't notice any changes at all. I even spent a cigarette or 2 blowing all the smoke into the intake manifold and various other hoses and didn't find any leaks except for a tiny one around the valve-cover vent hose junction thing. Sealed it up and nothing changed. I have also pulled the injector rail off the manifold and all the injectors are opening and closing, with good looking spray patterns (despite being freaking filthy). Pretty much the only thing I can think of that I haven't tested yet is fuel flow rate. Thanks for the responses so far guys.
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Nov 24, 2009 04:50
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What exactly is going on here? I see M3 wheel, seats, mirrors, motor (or just a cosmetic plate?), and body moldings but it's got a standard 3-series bumper, standard wheels, and it's listed as a 1996, when I thought the convertible wasn't made until 1999.
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Nov 24, 2009 05:37
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VacaGrande posted:What exactly is going on here? It's listed as a 328...
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Nov 24, 2009 06:02
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Crustashio posted:It's listed as a 328... Yes but that doesn't really explain much does it friend. IE the engine
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Nov 24, 2009 07:30
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UncleMeat! posted:Yes but that doesn't really explain much does it friend. IE the engine Someone tried making themselves a M3 convertible. It's not really that unusual to see engine transplants in standard 3 series.
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Nov 24, 2009 15:36
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Does the 'M Power' cover fit on an M50/M52 engine?
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Nov 24, 2009 17:42
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Did some more investigating, and the FPR is definitely bad, not exactly sure if it will fix the problem, but I have a new one coming in the mail regardless. The diaphragm doesn't leak air or gas under vacuum or pressure, but the piston inside doesn't seem to move at all either. With a rig of hoses and the fuel rail and a vacuum pump, I could build vacuum off the scale of the vacuum gauge without leaking down or sucking in gas, yet air pressure through the regulator never changed regardless of the incoming pressure or amount of vacuum. The regulator is rated at 3.5 bar, and I've never had that. It was a little bit rough when it was almost 4, and now it's very rough at almost 3, so we'll see where this goes I guess. I even suspected bad gas because this all happened after a fill-up, but I've got access to a '69 Chevelle with a mechanical fuel pump and set it up to suck it out of a gas can and it ran just fine.
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Nov 24, 2009 20:34
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Does anyone know where I can find 12V accessory connections in the innards of an E36? I'm adding a satellite radio breakout to my stereo and it needs to be soldered on to a 12V source. I thought of maybe taking it from the cigarette lighter but that's in the tunnel and the rest of the hardware is in the dash behind the glovebox.
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Nov 24, 2009 22:15
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CornHolio posted:Does the 'M Power' cover fit on an M50/M52 engine? yes it does and that's exactly what happened here, otherwise the car would be more expensive. Not that transplanting an s52 is unheard of so i don't understand the awe and confusion
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Nov 24, 2009 22:17
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E30 guys: When the central locking simply refuses to work (or should I say, barely moves 1 or 2mm), what are the common issues? I fully charged my battery (and the car would start if it was getting fuel, I can hear that glorious whine of a starter motor) but I wanted to take care of as much poo poo as possible before getting it towed away. I'm hoping it's not a horribly expensive fix. Another problem is related to the antenna. It only goes up about 1/2 the way, but it isn't cold enough out to cause it to freeze.
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Nov 24, 2009 23:00
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McMadCow posted:Does anyone know where I can find 12V accessory connections in the innards of an E36? I'm adding a satellite radio breakout to my stereo and it needs to be soldered on to a 12V source. I thought of maybe taking it from the cigarette lighter but that's in the tunnel and the rest of the hardware is in the dash behind the glovebox. How about here? http://wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm
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Nov 24, 2009 23:07
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Crustashio posted:E30 guys: When the central locking simply refuses to work (or should I say, barely moves 1 or 2mm), what are the common issues? I fully charged my battery (and the car would start if it was getting fuel, I can hear that glorious whine of a starter motor) but I wanted to take care of as much poo poo as possible before getting it towed away. I'm hoping it's not a horribly expensive fix. Here, http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e30/interior/door_locks/e30_central_lock_faq.html The antenna is likely gummed up. You can try wd-40 or something if that is the case. I'd take the mast off and check for free movement and clean it up. Last I bought one the replacement mast were not that badly priced.
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Nov 24, 2009 23:12
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random logic posted:How about here? Hmmm, that's awesome, but I'm not even sure what to look for in there. It's got lots of schematics, but I'm not making out locations of the accessory leads.
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Nov 24, 2009 23:33
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Should I jump on this 1990 325i for a fun second project car? Can anything cheap and not tacky be done with the seats? http://memphis.craigslist.org/cto/1475246416.html Edit: never mind, the bad top kills it for me..
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Nov 25, 2009 04:53
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TylerC posted:Should I jump on this 1990 325i for a fun second project car? Can anything cheap and not tacky be done with the seats? It's definitely beat, and you're probably right to pass on it, but don't let a bad top dissuade you if the rest of the car is in good shape. If it's a manual top (and you want ONLY a manual top, the power ones are more trouble than they're worth), you can buy a kit for $500 and replace the top yourself as long as the metal frame is in good shape. It's a fiddly job for sure, but if you're patient you can do it and save a TON of money over what a shop would charge.
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Nov 25, 2009 15:36
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McMadCow posted:Hmmm, that's awesome, but I'm not even sure what to look for in there. When I did my wife's car I use a meter to find a non-switched hot wire and spliced into the plug.
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Nov 25, 2009 17:01
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random logic posted:When I did my wife's car I use a meter to find a non-switched hot wire and spliced into the plug. I ended up doing it last night and I used the wires leading to the accessory plug in the glovebox. It worked aside from my dumb rear end clipping both wires at once and blowing the fuse that the dome lights are on.  Everything worked once I got that taken care of, though. It's so much nicer having all that stuff tucked away behind the dash instead of having extra wires and boxes in the cab.
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Nov 25, 2009 20:52
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Okay I am pretty sure I have nailed it down to the fuel pump now. Got the new regulator in there today, and while the old one was indeed defective, now it can barely and slowly get up to 3.5 bar with vacuum disconnected, only right after starting the engine/pump. When I rev the motor, the fuel pressure actually DROPS now, in perfect proportion to engine revs. At 2k I am down to about 2.9 bar, and about 2.7 at 5k. I am no longer leaking off fuel pressure through the regulator, just the check valve in the pump. If this doesn't fix it, I will be thoroughly ashamed and defeated.
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Nov 25, 2009 23:15
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Well, my 1997 328i has some kind of problem. The steering suddenly starting feeling very strange, and when I got home, I found that I could reach under and rotate the tie rod with my hand. I replaced bot tie rod assemblies (the whole things) in the spring with the OEM brand, Lemfoerder (sp?) I'm assuming maybe the connection to the knuckle is loose, because the connection to the steering rack was protected with a big washer bend over the nut. Is there anything else it could be?
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Nov 27, 2009 01:59
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Wait, you can actually rotate the tie-rod shaft by hand? Essentially changing the toe? That seems very unlikely, even if you jacked up the car. With the car on the ground it's flat-out impossible. More likely you're rotating the tie-rod to the limit of the ball joint, which is normal free play.
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Nov 27, 2009 05:23
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peterjmatt posted:Wait, you can actually rotate the tie-rod shaft by hand? Essentially changing the toe? That seems very unlikely, even if you jacked up the car. With the car on the ground it's flat-out impossible. More likely you're rotating the tie-rod to the limit of the ball joint, which is normal free play. I think I rotated it over 90°. I'll know more Saturday morning when it stops raining and snowing and can take the wheel off and look at it. I'm not going to drive it until then.
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Nov 27, 2009 05:34
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Okay, I checked, the whole thing rotates. Like, up going under the boot. Both sides, though, so either that's normal or both sides are loose.
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Nov 27, 2009 19:54
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So you're turning the rods coming out of the tie rod ends? The one that locknuts are supposed to keep from moving? Like peter said the only normal amount of movement should be how much you can pivot the ball joint.
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Nov 27, 2009 19:58
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Lowclock posted:So you're turning the rods coming out of the tie rod ends? The one that locknuts are supposed to keep from moving? Like peter said the only normal amount of movement should be how much you can pivot the ball joint. Yeah, pretty much. Looks like I get to peel the boot back and see what I can find.
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Nov 27, 2009 20:40
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CornHolio posted:Yeah, pretty much. Looks like I get to peel the boot back and see what I can find. Did you use Karlyn or Lemforder?
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Nov 27, 2009 20:46
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Did you use Karlyn or Lemforder? Lemforder. I heard bad things about the Karlyn.
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Nov 27, 2009 20:48
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CornHolio posted:Lemforder. I heard bad things about the Karlyn. That's why I was asking. Strange thing is that I changed mine a year and a half ago with Karlyn and they still look and function like brand new.
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Nov 27, 2009 21:33
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Well, I don't know if its my tie rods. They do have a bit of play, but I don't think they're loose from either end. I didn't pull the boot off because I don't have another thin clamp, but once I find one I'll do that to be sure. I think my control arms are going even further south. I know both ball joints are bad, and I have a torn control arm, so I guess its just getting worse. I hope it all holds out until spring. I did notice my power steering fluid was really low, so I added some ATF (WTF) to the reservoir and it does seem to have helped a little. I also ordered an oil pressure switch. I really hope this gets rid of my flickering oil pressure light at idle. I think the switch has been bad for years, because I found out a year after buying my E36 that the PO (or someone before them even) had pulled the oil pressure bulb. After I replaced it, I noticed that the light flickers only at idle, only when the engine is fully warm, and its the worst with 5W30 oil and a warm day (10W40 oil and it hardly came on, but I didn't want to run that in the winter...) Any thoughts?
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Nov 29, 2009 06:21
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CornHolio posted:I have a torn control arm Geez I hope this is one of those situations where you say one thing and mean another. CornHolio posted:Flickering oil pressure light It's pretty cheap to replace though so there's a chance it's just the switch. Would be a good idea to see if the housing is leaking too and do that while you're in there.
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Nov 29, 2009 07:14
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Lowclock posted:Geez I hope this is one of those situations where you say one thing and mean another. bushing. control arm bushing. oops. quote:
If it is, according to my Bentley manual, its either my oil pump, bad bearings, or just a really worn engine. Although I figure maybe I have some buildup in my pickup screen, so I thought about dumping in some seafoam and seeing if that helped. It's had synthetic since before I had it, and has 177k on it. Since the light was removed I'm really hoping its just the switch. I mean, it had to be removed for a reason, right?
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Nov 29, 2009 18:01
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CornHolio posted:bushing. control arm bushing. oops. CornHolio posted:If it is, according to my Bentley manual, its either my oil pump, bad bearings, or just a really worn engine. Although I figure maybe I have some buildup in my pickup screen, so I thought about dumping in some seafoam and seeing if that helped.
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Nov 29, 2009 18:26
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