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Yeah, a nurgling. Under the sideways foot. On the bottom of the previous page.
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Nov 19, 2009 23:15
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| # ? Apr 19, 2024 16:49 |
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Crossposting from the gibbus: Paint Review (that's right, I'm reviewing paint.) So if you have shopped at Ben Franklin for some of your stuff you may have seen this Daler Rowney FW Acrylic Artists Ink. It costs about $8-9 a bottle depending on where you live and whether there are sales, but at 2.5 times the volume of GW paint pots, that's pretty comparable. There are two different kinds: primary and Opalescent. I've picked up a couple of each sort and had mixed results, but the two I want to draw your attention to are the pure white and black inks. These things are absolutely incredible. For starters, the bottles have built-in droppers for easy transference. They are pre-thinned to the exact milky consistency we look for with miniature painting, but have just the right tension to stay where you put them on your model. Combined with GW washes, you can get the highlights and lowlights you want with ease. They are also very high pigment. It is simple to paint pure, clean white over a solid black undercoat in a single pass with this stuff. One coat. The black is a rich, inky black. Thanks to the thinness of the stuff, it's also easy to drag around you palette for tinting whatever you're mixing. I found the white almost too fluid for that. The opalescent paints are not wholly appropriate for what we're doing here a lot of the time, but you can get some really cool oily effects painting washes over their silver. Highly recommended, particularly in the white and black. I'm going to see if I can find some red to see how it goes over the black, but if the white is any indication, it should be in the bag. I'd post a couple of bafore/after pics, but I still have yet to replace my stolen camera. Just wanted to give a shoutout for this stuff.
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Nov 20, 2009 21:44
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Any chance of pics Fix?
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Nov 20, 2009 21:59
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Haven't replaced my stolen camera between that post and yours.  I'll go pick one up today. Fix fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Nov 20, 2009 |
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Nov 20, 2009 22:06
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That's what I get for skimming the post, my bad.
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Nov 20, 2009 22:13
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I use those inks to base coat everything, pretty much. At least all of the Nurgle demons I have posted. I use mine thinned with FFW and a tiny bit of iso for medium and flow. They make amazing washes. I would recommend not using iso if the wash is not the first layer, as it can actually thin paint you already have on there.
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Nov 20, 2009 22:53
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!amicable posted:I use those inks to base coat everything, pretty much. At least all of the Nurgle demons I have posted. Did you use the red for your Bloodthirsters? Can you get a bit more detailed on how you mix up your washes with them?
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Nov 20, 2009 23:12
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Fix posted:Did you use the red for your Bloodthirsters? I did on the Bloodthirster, not on the Bloodletters. I usually do it on the spot, but it's pretty easy to figure out. The only key is that I am painting on a white undercoat, so the washes work well as an undercoat. I started with a red ink, put it on and let it dry over night, then come back the next day and use a sepia over the entire thing. From there it's just highlights and picking out colors other then red. I would probably save a lot of time if I premixed the red ink and FFW, but it's pretty easy to do on the fly. I usually fill up the little "bubble" of my palette about 1/3 of the way with FFW then add the ink via a fat old brush. I sometimes need to thin the whole thing with water. Using iso as a flow agent was a new thing, and I sort of liked it, but it makes it all too runny and WILL strip paint from underlying layers, so I can't say it's honestly useful. On the other hand, I found that iso (I am using 91%, but I am not sure that matters all too much) can be used for some other neat things. Like I mentioned it will strip paint, so you can sort of "etch" your highlights by painting down pure iso and having it disolve the layered washes. It's sort of cool and if you work with white primer (or colored primers I'd imagine) you can get some neat effects that way. Another cool trick is to lay down some ink, then mottle it with a brush dipped in iso. It has the same sort of repelling effect that oil and water do, so you can play with that. A caveat about isoproply alcohol: it will gently caress your brushes up. Do not use a good brush to apply it. I want to hear more about the pearlescent inks. Do you think they could be substituted for metalics?
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Nov 20, 2009 23:54
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I got one response  attn: Bobx66 about trading some of my minis for 4 plastic chaos marines. Now you can all enjoy/suffer pictures from my collection of miscellaneous miniatures.These are some examples: TMNT with lasers!  40K stuff  Ice chariot    GW halflings  The whole mess of them is here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/poisonmartini/
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Nov 21, 2009 01:25
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!amicable posted:I want to hear more about the pearlescent inks. Do you think they could be substituted for metalics? Eh, kinda. I used the Silver Pearl on these (not the white, this took lots of layers of regular Liquitex stuff):  Badab black over the stuff gave a really interesting oily brown effect in thin layers. I don't know that I would necessarily use it all over the place, and it doesn't do much with Sepia, but I liked it well enough for my Templar bits.
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Nov 21, 2009 01:40
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Fix posted:Eh, kinda. I used the Silver Pearl on these (not the white, this took lots of layers of regular Liquitex stuff): Did you use it for the chest emblems as well? Is that the pearl+sepia? I think it looks pretty good actually. Also the basing is pretty sweet. You looted one of those "precious stone" bins in a craft store?
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Nov 21, 2009 01:49
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No, the chests are shining gold over tin bitz. The bases are hand-chiseled from travertine flooring because I'm a loving psycho.
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Nov 21, 2009 02:01
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Nurgle armor tutorial, has a nice effect at the end http://coolminiornot.com/article/aid/849/page/1 Finished: 
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Nov 21, 2009 17:50
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Fix, regarding those opalescent paints, how do you think the effect of, say, Volcano Red or something similar would look over FW Black? An insectile, "ant carapace with red highlights" look is what I'm working with on my Tyranids, and this stuff sounds like it has potential for that.
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Nov 21, 2009 18:16
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Haven't tried it, couldn't tell you. The only thinned brushing I have done of the stuff was the White Pearl over a dull white to try to get a... well... pearl effect. It did not come out to my liking immediately, so I scrapped the idea and went onto something else. I really need to play around with those more. I think it's definitely got enough shimmer to it to do what you're talking about. I just don't know how well the red covers is all.
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Nov 21, 2009 21:10
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Really nice chariot there Zakov! Thanks I for the tutorial too, I think I was one of the people asking for one, since I really love what you did with the armour there.
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Nov 21, 2009 22:31
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Zark you didnt paint that, correct?
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Nov 21, 2009 23:12
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No that's the final picture from the tutorial. I had been planning on working on my Tyranid army for some time now but then the new codex was thrown out there and I stopped work on my stuff all together 
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Nov 21, 2009 23:47
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A little bit of work left on the gems and then it's time to base this bad boy.  Click here for the full 600x644 image. Bonus shot of my workspace.  Click here for the full 800x336 image.
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Nov 21, 2009 23:56
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Are there any pin vises out there that will hold a 1/8" bit? I currently have to just use my hand. Tonight in the process of drilling magnet holes for another set of assault terminators, I managed to not only put a huge blister on my index finger, but burst it as well. I'm sure it will feel lovely when I go kayaking tomorrow, too.
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Nov 22, 2009 05:04
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Fyrbrand posted:Are there any pin vises out there that will hold a 1/8" bit? I currently have to just use my hand. Tonight in the process of drilling magnet holes for another set of assault terminators, I managed to not only put a huge blister on my index finger, but burst it as well. I'm sure it will feel lovely when I go kayaking tomorrow, too. I know this pain. I think 3/32 is the largest bit I could jam in my old GW hobby drill.
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Nov 22, 2009 06:14
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I'm not sure if this is totally appropriate to the thread, but oh well. I want to take a minute to make sure people know about the magnetic basing kits that Gale Force Nine makes. The kits are basically a big sheet of that sticky-backed magnetic plastic you see on fridge magnets and stuff, and then X number of bases with solid magnetic bottoms. I'm not really sure what the magnetic bases are made from, it looks similar to the magnetic plastic but its considerably thicker and stronger. Anyway, the idea is that you switch your stock bases, and cut the sheet to fit your movement tray. I was a little worried about this initially because I was concerned it might not be strong enough, but their cavalry bases will hold my Saurus Oldblood (solid metal figure on plastic mount) to his tray even upside down or vertically. The hold is very good. Their 20mm bases will actually hold a large pewter miniature with no problems at all - I have a Hordes Gatorman stuck to my light at the moment. Now obviously most people aren't interested in paying extra for this kind of thing. I think its cheaper to just go with mighty putty and rare earth magnets. But if you're in a situation where you need to buy bases anyway, they're a really good deal. If you buy bases from GW, for instance, you get 10 20mm bases for $4.50. Gale Force Nine gives you 36 magnetic 20mm bases, plus the movement tray insert, for $11. So considerably better value.
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Nov 22, 2009 17:10
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Ashcans posted:magnet bases You mentioned you used this for a Hordes mini, but what is the use in doing that for a skirmish level kind of game like Warmachine and Hordes? I figured movement trays etc would be useful only for much larger scale games, and I can see it becoming kind of an issue when moving around on terrain.
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Nov 22, 2009 19:04
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aldantefax posted:You mentioned you used this for a Hordes mini, but what is the use in doing that for a skirmish level kind of game like Warmachine and Hordes? I figured movement trays etc would be useful only for much larger scale games, and I can see it becoming kind of an issue when moving around on terrain. One of the reasons that I am magnetizing all my bases is actually for transport. Rather than using a padded carry case, I have a big toolbox with metal inserts. The magnetic bases hold stick to the inserts and prevent anything moving, and I feel like it's a better arrangement than stuffing things in and out of foam all the time. So for my Hordes/Warmachine/Reaper stuff, it's a transport and storage solution more than something for the game. The other reason is that the Hordes Gatormen actually double up as Kroxigor in my Lizardmen army - I already had them, and I think the miniatures are better suited than the GW Krox. So in my particular case, the magnetizing also means they lock in nicely when they're being used with my Skink units.
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Nov 22, 2009 19:30
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Im all for magnet transporting, I found that unless the box really got wacked hard by something, they almost never move and all those little thin parts or weird angled arms and poo poo never break off, like they do in a standard foam case. Plus I got to carry my models in a red metal toolbox 
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Nov 22, 2009 20:14
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I could literally hurl my case down a flight of stairs, and assuming the case itself doesn't break into pieces my buff dudes will be fine.
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Nov 22, 2009 23:05
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Don't the dudes slide even if they don't pop from the side of the box?
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Nov 23, 2009 02:45
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!amicable posted:Don't the dudes slide even if they don't pop from the side of the box?
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Nov 23, 2009 03:10
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Aranan posted:With how strong some of these magnets are, I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't move. I'd actually be a little more worried of the bases staying stuck to the toolbox and breaking the mini as you try and remove it. I was going to say I'd worry about magnets breaking free from the glue, leaving the minis to fall, but yeah this is possible especially if one doesn't move minis by the base like they should. (I do this all the time.)
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Nov 23, 2009 04:24
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Apparently people are all about using mighty putty or some other epoxy to bury the magnet in the base
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Nov 23, 2009 04:28
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Drop Pod primed and the insides of the doors I just primed white. Gonna caution strip em and hope that the yellow air brush paint I got doesn't suck because it says 'transparent' and they don't carry opaque. What the hell? I'll give it a shot and pray it works.
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Nov 23, 2009 04:34
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 Rare earth magnets own.
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Nov 23, 2009 04:37
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I am always afraid that I will manage to spill my magnets all over my laptop and fry it, or the external HD on my desk. Or that somehow they will crush my penis. I don't know. v0v
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Nov 23, 2009 04:43
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Fyrbrand posted:I was going to say I'd worry about magnets breaking free from the glue, leaving the minis to fall, but yeah this is possible especially if one doesn't move minis by the base like they should. (I do this all the time.) The magnets will break off from the bottom if you use super glue. You have to use Gorilla Glue for attaching the magnet to the base. Ripping the guy off the base is another issue that can be solved by placing the magnet in a uniform place in all of your bases. This way you can tilt the mini to the right or left and lift off a surface with ease. Or just encase the magnets in resin.
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Nov 23, 2009 07:45
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I always thought you'd pull on the base and not the mini itself.
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Nov 23, 2009 07:55
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No Pun Intended posted:I always thought you'd pull on the base and not the mini itself. There is no way you could get a good enough grip depending on the surface. You have to use the mini.
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Nov 23, 2009 08:15
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Does anyone know of a way to make footprints in snow that doesn't involve lots of little feet cut out of paper or something? Suggestions for garland or wreaths would be helpful too.
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Nov 23, 2009 16:38
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Ok I've got a big backlog of stuff to paint over xmas break and I can't really decide what I want to do. So I'll be a typical goon and let internet strangers decide. Should I paint: a) 9 lootas + KFF mek b) looted wagon converted from basilisk c) magnetized predator/razorback/rhino d) 10 TH/SS terminators + swappable bits for 5 shooty terms e) ironclad dread f) bike squad + attack bike I'd like to get through at least two of these choices before january but seeing as I have a dissertation to work on I won't exactly being swimming in free time for warhammery.
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Nov 23, 2009 20:07
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Fyrbrand posted:
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Nov 23, 2009 20:15
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| # ? Apr 19, 2024 16:49 |
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Fyrbrand posted:
You do know that's the end of some dudes finger between those magnets, right? Cthulu Carl posted:Does anyone know of a way to make footprints in snow that doesn't involve lots of little feet cut out of paper or something? You need a foot-ona-stick, add the white scatter stuff & then tamp it down with your foot-ona-stick
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Nov 23, 2009 20:27
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