|
Definitely agreed re: GW primer. I got some when I was tired of trying to deal with other brands that get skunky too easily, or the nozzle clogs, or whatever. Obviously the GW stuff is wildly overpriced, but it covers very well, has a richer black color than all the others I've tried, and is less prone to skunking. The extra money is almost worth it just to avoid headaches.
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2009 04:54
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 13:24 |
|
|
Their white is pretty good too. Doesn't pool like other white primers I've used. The redshirts often remind me (sigh) about how their primers are specifically formulated for miniatures. While that may or may not be true, 15 bucks a can is loving expensive.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2009 06:53
|
|
|
Sole.Sushi posted:Their white is pretty good too. Doesn't pool like other white primers I've used. The redshirts often remind me (sigh) about how their primers are specifically formulated for miniatures. While that may or may not be true, 15 bucks a can is loving expensive. They tell you about the dust coating that GW is supposed to use on their molds? The way it was told to me, the dust is so the minis don't stick to the mold, and the primer is formulated to eat the dust as a part of the priming process. I have not verified this, just what the manager at the one I used to go to told me.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2009 07:05
|
|
|
lighttigersoul posted:They tell you about the dust coating that GW is supposed to use on their molds? The way it was told to me, the dust is so the minis don't stick to the mold, and the primer is formulated to eat the dust as a part of the priming process. sounds like a monstrous pile of horseshit to me They use talc as a release, and most primers stick to almost anything, talc included
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2009 07:11
|
|
|
Yeah, that's gotta be bullshit. Going to stick to scrubbing everything down before priming, either way. On an entirely different topic, any suggestions for foam storage cases? I just discovered that my centurion somehow had its shield arm torqued straight off during my move a couple months ago, which tells me that my ghetto container store setup isn't quite cutting the mustard. Going to be a bitch to fix, too, sheared right along the pistons.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2009 07:34
|
|
|
stabbington posted:Yeah, that's gotta be bullshit. Going to stick to scrubbing everything down before priming, either way. I have an Army Transport Platoon bag right now with pluck foam and that kinda doesn't really work all that well. Privateer Press has worked out a deal with the guys at http://www.battlefoam.com to produce Warmachine-branded bags. That company already sells the inserts, and while they command a high premium, it looks like probably one of the best things on the market. I plan on getting one of em when I have more cash lying around (ha, ha).
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2009 08:40
|
|
|
^^^^^ Aww. Well, at least it's further proof of how awesome Sabol is. Sabol Designs makes some great cases and foam trays. They are, in my opinion, the best value in terms of expense versus quality. If you have a lot of money to spend, you could give Battlefoam a whirl. They cut their trays to the exact shape of your minis once you send them some tracing. This option is the most expensive I've found so far, but if you are super-paranoid about your minis, this is the best way to go. Alternately, use the power of magnets!  Moderately expensive, affixing magnets to your minis and attaching them to a thin steel plate is an awesomely effective way of keeping your minis from getting damage. I've seen people take magnet-inserted minis and transport them in steel tool boxes. No damage, and as a sturdy case, well, anything meant to hold 80+ pounds of tools likely won't collapse under normal circumstances.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2009 08:51
|
|
|
I found some Simple Green at BJ's, big ol bucket of the stuff. I poured some in a bowl and plunked an oldstyle plastic khorne berserker in it. It's been sitting there for a week now, I've brushed one or two layers of paint off it but that seems as far as it'll go, how long should it be sitting there for it to really loosen up tough paint?
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2009 18:58
|
|
|
If he's been there for a week I don't think its going to get any better. Have you changed the simple green? I usually find it best to put the model into a sealed container (a jar or tupperware) of simple green, and then change it out after a few days if it hasn't moved everything I want gone.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2009 19:09
|
|
|
Ashcans posted:If he's been there for a week I don't think its going to get any better. Have you changed the simple green? I usually find it best to put the model into a sealed container (a jar or tupperware) of simple green, and then change it out after a few days if it hasn't moved everything I want gone. Take an old toothbrush to it. Simple green isn't magic.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2009 20:21
|
|
|
Even after toothbrushing, there is usually some residue/staining that you cant get rid of, but as long as there isnt a lot of texture to it, just prime over it and youll never know it was there
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2009 20:22
|
|
|
Siimple green also has a tough time taking the first coat of primer off of plastic I've noticed.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2009 20:46
|
|
|
Ok its been a while but ive finally found the time to start painting again, and cause im a masochist i decided to paint .... Chapter honor guard! here is my champ and blurry from the back 
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2009 22:43
|
|
|
Finally finished painting one! Just need to figure out how I am going to base it and I'll be done with the entire model. At first I didn't believe that Devlan Mud was the most useful wash out there, but 80% of the model used it at one step or another so I guess it really is a good wash!  
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2009 23:45
|
|
|
That's pretty pimp, and perhaps more importantly, it looks like it'd be easy to knock out a bunch of dudes quickly using that scheme. Devlan Mud definitely owns. In fact I'm waiting for a wash of it to dry on my looted wagon right now. I still think BADABBLACK is better/more important than DELVAN but it's pretty close. Now base him!
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 01:25
|
|
|
 Wryyyyyyy Shortly before this picture, a lamp hit the hammer and knocked it out of its rightful place overhead. Then the left arm fell off. Well...I guess I might as well go and disassemble this dude and then pin him. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 02:36
|
|
|
Devlan Mud posted:Siimple green also has a tough time taking the first coat of primer off of plastic I've noticed. Simple green doesnt work too well with removing spray primer. If you want to remove that get some spray on oven cleaner, put your minis in a bag, then spray in the bag utill the minis are covered in foam. Wait 12 hours to a day and then scrub off with a toothbrush. Should take the primer off with ease.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 02:41
|
|
|
Anyone have any suggestions for weathering part of my looted wagon? I painted some white and blue checks (skull white and enchanted blue to be exact) but they're too bright and clean. I'm not sure a wash would work well- maybe some kind of drybrush over all the checks?
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 03:03
|
|
|
Devlan Mud posted:Siimple green also has a tough time taking the first coat of primer off of plastic I've noticed. Ahhhh alright, as I said before I scrubbed some off but not all would come off. The layer that won't come off is solid black, so I think it's the prime layer, which would explain why it's so difficult to get off. I managed to get the rest off, though. Thanks! 
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 03:35
|
|
|
aldantefax posted:
From what I gather (ive never assembled manowars) they pretty much have to be pinned, like most PP stuff 
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 03:40
|
|
|
This question gets asked a million times, but for all you airbrush fags: Recommend me a decent kit that can be used not just for basecoating, but also for some detail work and stuff. What kind of cabbage will I be laying out for this?
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 03:43
|
|
|
The equipment I posted wasn't too pricey and could be used for detail but I lack the talent. I sprung about 250 on it all
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 03:45
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:This question gets asked a million times, but for all you airbrush fags: See if you can convince someone to buy you a good airbrush kit in exchange for painting their stuff. Go to the next level in whoring out.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 03:46
|
|
|
Hrm. Whats a cheap rig cost? I assume the brush is a lot cheaper than the compressor?
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 03:51
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:From what I gather (ive never assembled manowars) they pretty much have to be pinned, like most PP stuff Yeah, but I seem to have gotten the hang of the backwards lean that they adopt by putting them in slightly more dynamic poses (the other demo corps are still glued together). YoungWolf7 did a pretty bang up job on demonstrating how to assemble them.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 04:22
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:From what I gather (ive never assembled manowars) they pretty much have to be pinned, like most PP stuff Pinning will set you freeeeeee.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 04:43
|
|
|
Fyrbrand posted:Ok I've got a big backlog of stuff to paint over xmas break and I can't really decide what I want to do. So I'll be a typical goon and let internet strangers decide. removed dead image link This was really fast and easy to do once I just sat down and did it. I'm kinda ehh at the result- I think there's too much blue going on. Also I can't find the gretchin I was going to include working the gun and firing from a gun port. Maybe they'll help add some color whenever I find them. Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Feb 3, 2015 |
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 05:11
|
|
|
Dude, that is really nice.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 05:13
|
|
|
Haha never noticed the Ork sticking his head out that hole on the WIP shots. Nice to finally see it done.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 05:20
|
|
|
Fyrbrand posted:too much blue
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 05:38
|
|
|
Aranan posted:What. What? You're no deffskull, get (git) out! Good point. I take it back. And MSP- that ork head is easily my favorite part of the whole model. He cracks me the hell up for some reason. Edit: a) 9 lootas + KFF mek c) magnetized predator/razorback/rhino d) 10 TH/SS terminators + swappable bits for 5 shooty terms e) ironclad dread f) bike squad + attack bike Any votes for the next project? (None of these will go anywhere near as quickly as the wagon did unfortunately.) Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Nov 30, 2009 |
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 05:44
|
|
|
Fyrbrand posted:a) 9 lootas + KFF mek
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 05:50
|
|
|
You've got 6 options there, there's an obvious way to decide.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 06:53
|
|
|
Fuckin dusty-assed white primer. Armory or Krylon, I'm getting some really grainy poo poo out of these things. poo poo sucks.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 08:08
|
|
|
Fix posted:Fuckin dusty-assed white primer. Armory or Krylon, I'm getting some really grainy poo poo out of these things. poo poo sucks. I was getting a chalky texture from the Krylon White Primer, you need to shake it for a minute longer than usual it seems and hold it an inch or two closer. I sprayed somewhere between 6"-4" away from the models and it came out alright, but I did two coats to get a more opaque white so that might have been what helped smooth it down more in the end. edit: I do like that the krylon cans have that 360 degree head, spraying from left to right with a vertical spray makes it much easier than blasting it with a circle of primer. Now its like my minis are going through a tiny car wash
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 08:40
|
|
|
d6 it you greasy nerd
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 09:09
|
|
|
Fix posted:Fuckin dusty-assed white primer. Armory or Krylon, I'm getting some really grainy poo poo out of these things. poo poo sucks. White's always hard to get to cover, spraying's no different. Even if it's not solidly white you still have a good enough surface to paint on.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 09:27
|
|
|
Fyrbrand posted:
That one. Because I still need to finish mine.  Stupid pool rings around that chest scroll; guess I shouldn't water down them ink after all. Need to fix that slop mark next to the seal on its right leg too but over all it didn't turn out too badly. Plus hey, I've only been painting a week short of 2 months. At least I got the most scroll heavy space hulk piece out of the way finally. EDIT: better pic. Angryboot fucked around with this message at 10:42 on Nov 30, 2009 |
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 09:47
|
|
|
MasterSlowPoke posted:White's always hard to get to cover, spraying's no different. Even if it's not solidly white you still have a good enough surface to paint on. Solid's not the problem. Gritty is the problem. It gives all the coats above it a sandpaper finish, which fucks up washes something certain. I'm not too pissed as it's just troops so far, but drat I really don't want to have to scrub these and start again. Angryboot posted:Ffffuuuuuuuck. Those are pretty.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 11:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 23, 2024 13:24 |
|
|
Angryboot posted:it didn't turn out too badly. Angryboot posted:it didn't turn out too badly. If I could turn out models that good I would be over the moon. I've been painting for yeeeears.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2009 12:58
|
|
