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Angryboot posted:That one. Because I still need to finish mine. Jesus christ man, these are fantastic. If I could make one suggestion, it'd be to try doing some scorching effects on the heavy flamer. It's easy enough to do- heavy drybrush of shining gold over about the front half or so of the nozzle, then drybrush scorched brown then black as you get closer to the tip. If you feel like it, you can do intermediate steps mixing the brown/black paints before drybrushing. Obviously I'm biased but I think it looks p cool. MasterSlowPoke posted:You've got 6 options there, there's an obvious way to decide. Yeah that was silly of me not to notice. The die tells me I'm working on my Ironclad, which is probably the least useful thing on that list but also the most fun so woot. Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Nov 30, 2009 |
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Nov 30, 2009 15:32
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Fix posted:Hey Fix, I know you've answered this before but what size magnets did you use for the arms on these guys?
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Nov 30, 2009 16:09
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Indolent Bastard posted:Hey Fix, I know you've answered this before but what size magnets did you use for the arms on these guys? 1/8" x 1/16" Fix fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Nov 30, 2009 |
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Nov 30, 2009 19:28
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Fix posted:1/8" x 1/16" Cheers.
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Nov 30, 2009 19:56
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PV, I picked up a used Iwata HP-C off of ebay for 60 bucks with a ton of accessories about a year ago. It is a great entry level brush. As you surmised the real cost is the compressor. I haven't bought one yet as I have a full size compressor but I dont think you can pick up an airbrush compressor for less than 120. Moral of the story: people are always getting out of airbrushing on ebay and you can get away with highway robbery there. EDIT: did those paints come in?
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Nov 30, 2009 20:12
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Fix posted:1/8" x 1/16" Are they thin enough that you can just glue them to the arm joints, or do you still need to set them into the mini a bit? Also, is it better to use two magnets or just use one magnet on the body and a layer of magnetic paint on the arm? Edit: Also, are there any magnets tiny enough to connect a gun to an arm (so I can switch out assault weapons depending on the battle) or is that too small? Fake James fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Nov 30, 2009 |
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Nov 30, 2009 20:35
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Bobx66 posted:PV, Yeah, doing some painting tonight  Thanks for the info, Ill keep an eye out. My gf was asking me what I wanted for xmas and I couldnt think of something in the 50-75 dollar range that decided on. Its either an airbrush or a shitload of sculpting tools/etc 
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Nov 30, 2009 20:57
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Dr. Lenin posted:Are they thin enough that you can just glue them to the arm joints, or do you still need to set them into the mini a bit? Also, is it better to use two magnets or just use one magnet on the body and a layer of magnetic paint on the arm? Generally speaking you're going to want to sink them into the torso/shoulder. I used two magnets per joint, but a bit of metal on one side works just as well and even better sometimes for providing friction like the smooth magnets do not. There are magnets that are small enough to do what you're talking about, but I've found them to be too weak (1/16" x 1/32"). They'll hold the weapon, but the slightest jostle will knock it off again. Not to mention how hard they are just to get in the right place and get the poles all lined up working that small.
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Nov 30, 2009 21:05
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Fyrbrand posted:scorching effects Oh absolutely. I purposely put it away and not looked at it over the weekend then took a detailed pic to analyze everything and that was pretty much the most glaring thing aside from the pool rings and the name tags looking terrible. I'll be doing that for sure.
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Nov 30, 2009 21:10
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For swapping special weapons, just glue them to the arms and magnetize that. Way simpler.
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Nov 30, 2009 21:16
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Fyrbrand posted:For swapping special weapons, just glue them to the arms and magnetize that. Way simpler. This. It's not too difficult to come up with spare marine gun arms if you're shameless about begging or can score a couple cheap lots on ebay or something. The only real difficulty is if you're using sweet-rear end shoulder pads or metal ones or whatever and are limited by those.
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Nov 30, 2009 23:02
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I'm sure I could find this with a little google-ing, but I'd like some of your opinions: I'm about to paint my first set of Space Marines and Orks. Is there a step-by-step tutorial on painting each? I don't mind my first set being a paint-by-numbers kinda thing. I just want to make them look good, and see what the different steps (washing, drybrushing, etc) do.
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Dec 1, 2009 01:24
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Iron Squid posted:I'm sure I could find this with a little google-ing, but I'd like some of your opinions: Try this dude. He primes grey, while most people around here use black, but he does a good job showing every single step. He even does decals in this one, which owns. The one I linked is Ultramarines but he has a few other tutorials in there as well.
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Dec 1, 2009 01:46
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Fyrbrand posted:Try this dude. He primes grey, while most people around here use black, but he does a good job showing every single step. He even does decals in this one, which owns. This guy is really good, I copied my wash recipe from him. He rules.
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Dec 1, 2009 01:47
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If it wouldn't involve months of work I would honestly strip and redo all my Salamanders using his method.
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Dec 1, 2009 01:48
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Fix posted:1/8" x 1/16" Goddammit! I found your post earlier about which ebay store you use for magnets but now I can't find it and the 1st post on the Warhammer thread is the magnet supplier that rapes you on shipping. Help a brother out?
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Dec 1, 2009 01:50
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Fyrbrand posted:Try this dude. He primes grey, while most people around here use black, but he does a good job showing every single step. He even does decals in this one, which owns. That looks like a good tutorial. Do all Citadel paints need to be diluted first? Edit: I wish he would've explained things as he was doing them. For example, he put down a layer of brown before he put the gold on. Why?
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Dec 1, 2009 02:12
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Yeah, you want to dilute your paints pretty much always. He did the brown first because metallics can be weird about coverage. The brown helps with that, and also provides shading. If you notice, the gold only went on the raised areas. The recesses are still brown.
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Dec 1, 2009 02:17
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Fyrbrand posted:Yeah, you want to dilute your paints pretty much always. Actually, I hadn't noticed that but I see it now. Did he did two layers of highlights? Or did he just highlight two separate areas with different colors? It would've also been nice to see close-ups of the eyes that he painted as well, to see where the colors were going. What's the stuff the base is mounted on?
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Dec 1, 2009 02:20
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Anyone have any experience with this stuff? I love green stuff for the most part, but I find that there isn't enough contrast from light and shadow when I work with green stuff for my taste. Fake Edit: I've never worked with brown stuff, but I imagine that the darkness of the material will be similar to green stuff, which doesn't fix the problem. Real Edit: Always fun when the website you link pages to has the same URL for two different pages! 
Sole.Sushi fucked around with this message at 10:27 on Dec 1, 2009 |
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Dec 1, 2009 04:32
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So I bought the Privateer Press "hobby kit" for about 101 bucks with shipping, it comes with the P3 beginner's painting DVD. It should be here later this week - I'm pumped since I want to properly stick together a Destroyer and get priming! Now, here is a question that I think is a 'to taste' kinda deal: do people paint multi-piece posable minis (Warmachine minis are pretty much the only ones that I can go off of since that's what I got) before or after assembly? I was having a lot of trouble with painting some of the areas with the way I had the Man-o-War posed so I think in his case I'll paint each major part seperately (upper torso, legs, left arm, right arm, hands and weapon) so that I can actually do it properly. Also, for anybody who uses P3 paints: do you thin them at all when painting Warmachine figures? I would assume you would if you're trying to do layering or something like that, but if you're just, like, doing basecoats and stuff, thinning isn't required, right? Ah, hell, I'll just wait for the DVD. On brushes: What brushes to buy? I see that Windsor & Newton are like the gold standard, but are there alternatives? I see these Rosemary & Co Artist Brushes on CMON that are like, "this is basically Windsor & Newton for half off, beat that suckers!"
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Dec 1, 2009 05:51
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You can paint things seperately, but I would make sure all the joints are pinned and drilled prior to that. Honestly though, unless youre painting some really high level stuff, its almost always easier to just assemble stuff and paint it. If you cant quite reach something, leave it black
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Dec 1, 2009 05:56
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Sole.Sushi posted:Anyone have any experience with this stuff or this stuff? You, uh, linked the same thing twice. Anyway, I've got the Pro-Create grey stuff, but I haven't used any green stuff to compare it with. Sorry! aldantefax posted:Now, here is a question that I think is a 'to taste' kinda deal: do people paint multi-piece posable minis (Warmachine minis are pretty much the only ones that I can go off of since that's what I got) before or after assembly? I was having a lot of trouble with painting some of the areas with the way I had the Man-o-War posed so I think in his case I'll paint each major part seperately (upper torso, legs, left arm, right arm, hands and weapon) so that I can actually do it properly. 1. If you can't get to it to paint, you can't see it. 2. Sometimes you can see stuff you can't reach and/or you're OCD and want it all painted. What I'm trying to do is a mix of the two. I have my models partially assembled (for my khador jacks, I have the legs+base, the torso, and each arm separate) with pins and holes all set up. Then I prime them and get at least a basecoat on everything. If it's an area that definitely won't be seen (the underside of the torso) then a basecoat is all I really care about. Other areas will be seen, just a total pain in the rear end to get at with a brush (like the sides of the torso after the arms would be on) so I just paint those all the way and assemble at the end. Also, for anybody who uses P3 paints: do you thin them at all when painting Warmachine figures? I would assume you would if you're trying to do layering or something like that, but if you're just, like, doing basecoats and stuff, thinning isn't required, right? quote:On brushes: What brushes to buy? I see that Windsor & Newton are like the gold standard, but are there alternatives? I see these Rosemary & Co Artist Brushes on CMON that are like, "this is basically Windsor & Newton for half off, beat that suckers!"
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Dec 1, 2009 05:58
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Any manufacturer that uses real sable seems to make the brush at least decent quality. That being said, when purchasing brushes, if they dont make perfect points when they are new, dont buy them
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Dec 1, 2009 06:16
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I'd thin P3s at least 2p:1w for basecoats, but I'm OCD as gently caress about brushstrokes (it doesn't help that my primary color scheme is mostly white).
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Dec 1, 2009 06:27
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What kind of brushes are decent for my first foray into drybrushing? Edit: Answered my own question via this - http://paintingstuff.blogspot.com/2009/05/drybrushing-wetbrushing-and-likes.html Iron Squid fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Dec 1, 2009 |
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Dec 1, 2009 06:56
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Indolent Bastard posted:Goddammit! I found your post earlier about which ebay store you use for magnets but now I can't find it and the 1st post on the Warhammer thread is the magnet supplier that rapes you on shipping. http://stores.ebay.com/paylessrwe So I just realized that I was bitching and bitching about my grainy primer jobs. My grainy sandable primer jobs. 
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Dec 1, 2009 08:30
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would the 1/8" x 1/32" magnets be too thin for supporting arms? I want to have to do as little drilling / cutting as possible as all my guys are metal.
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Dec 1, 2009 08:53
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Fix posted:http://stores.ebay.com/paylessrwe If only they made magnetic primer. Actually, that would be pretty sweet, come to think of it.
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Dec 1, 2009 10:29
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http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=magnetic primer
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Dec 1, 2009 10:43
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Crosspost from gbs WIP Doomwheel pics, crappy phone camera cos I can't be bothered breaking out the big camera for WIP shots but it's coming together   brass needs washed, another coat of yellow & wash on the cables, finish up the warpstone and rats/wheel studs and these bits are done, then I'll put it together with the outer assemblies and paint all those up. Getting done wish a little work thiswill be finished and based by the time my magnets arrive thursday/friday then i can pick up a bell/furnace kit to magnetize 
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Dec 1, 2009 11:37
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How much does it cost to get the supplies to start pinning things? I would very much like my Spriggan to stop falling apart and actually hold his drat lance. Also how hard is pinning for a person who has never done it before?
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Dec 1, 2009 14:07
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Fyrbrand posted:Try this dude. He primes grey, while most people around here use black, but he does a good job showing every single step. He even does decals in this one, which owns. After he does the wash, he repaints with less-diluted blue. Do you just avoid the areas where the wash pooled to preserve the shading there? Or did he just paint over it?
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Dec 1, 2009 15:56
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Let's break away from wargaming minis for a moment. My father is a car buff, and he loves the look of this particular Bentley to death. I'm considering picking up a model kit for that car and painting it up for him as a Christmas present. Can I go about this with the materials and techniques I'm using for Warhammer minis, or do I need to invest in a bunch of new products and relearn everything? Edit: Here's the car. 
Kestral fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Dec 1, 2009 |
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Dec 1, 2009 20:56
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If you have an airbrush and regularly use it to paint tanks: congratulations, everything you know is applicable to car modeling! If you hand-paint everything with a brush: sorry, you're kind of boned unless you feel like buying an airbrush setup.
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Dec 1, 2009 21:58
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You could paint it with rattlecans and then do the details w a brush
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Dec 1, 2009 22:31
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Cool pre-heresy guide here if anyone is interested. I got it from the Tuesday Top Ten which actually has pretty cool poo poo in it every week and is worth checking out.
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Dec 1, 2009 22:42
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Inspirational stuff guys. I got some Starship Trooper models dirt cheap (five bucks for the starter box) at Gencon this year. This is my 1st attempt at painting since 3rd ed.  I followed the guide in the armybook- drybrush the poo poo out of it.
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Dec 1, 2009 22:48
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LewdMonocle posted:Inspirational stuff guys. Once I get the money for paints I'm going to probably be testing out my hand on these before moving to my Warmachine poo poo. loving Mongoose publishing shutting down the game before I ever got to actually use my army anywhere.
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Dec 1, 2009 23:02
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Len posted:How much does it cost to get the supplies to start pinning things? I would very much like my Spriggan to stop falling apart and actually hold his drat lance. Also how hard is pinning for a person who has never done it before? $9.99. http://www.thewarstore.com/product48378.html I have a citadel pin vise and some of the individual packs of the P3 rods/bits, but you could just grab that and jump right in. Pinning takes a little practice, but it's not as scary as painting. I'm scared of painting.
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Dec 1, 2009 23:35
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