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Interesting discovery for today: tree armatures (like from Woodland Scenics) can make for pretty good antlers for a Grudge Pony. Now to make little stockings to be hung with care from the Shrine of Mork, in hope that Thane Nicholas soon will be there.
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Dec 2, 2009 03:01
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Where are you guys getting trees to make terrain for WH40K?
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Dec 2, 2009 05:44
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Iron Squid posted:Where are you guys getting trees to make terrain for WH40K? http://www.one-ring.co.uk/phpBB2/kb.php?mode=article&k=213
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Dec 2, 2009 06:05
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Iron Squid posted:Where are you guys getting trees to make terrain for WH40K? http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/234721.page
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Dec 2, 2009 06:08
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Iron Squid posted:Where are you guys getting trees to make terrain for WH40K? http://www.one-ring.co.uk/phpBB2/kb.php?mode=article&k=174
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Dec 2, 2009 07:09
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Aranan posted:http://www.one-ring.co.uk/phpBB2/kb.php?mode=article&k=213 This one is great! You could try looking at plastic aquarium plants for jungle foliage too. Big bag of em are just $10. Just cut em up and throw them on a base. Let me know if it works...
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Dec 2, 2009 08:38
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More in progress doomwheel pics, better camera this time   
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Dec 2, 2009 13:24
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 Not a great sculpt, but adding on some green stuffed hair goes a loooong way towards making it a lesbian knight. And it's in full armor, though the armor lacks realism.
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Dec 2, 2009 14:06
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Jonny Nox posted:This one is great! I've gotten as far as drying out a bunch of grape stems and buying some clump foliage from Hobby Lobby. I just need to get some bases/washers for the individual trees and something to base them on. Is there a place where I can get some precut pieces of MDF board? Like 1' x 1' squares or circles or something. [edit] Here's a little face tutorial I found on From the Warp:  Click here for the full 800x343 image. 1. Prime. I did this one in black like I did the others for consistency. 2. Basecoat with the light grey. You want a nice, smooth and consistent finish with this coat. 3. Liberal wash with undiluted Ogryn Flesh over the face. 4. Go back with the grey and pick out the raised areas of the face. 5. Slightly thinned (50/50) wash with Devlan Mud over the face. 6. Go back with the grey and pick out the highlights. Aranan fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Dec 2, 2009 |
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Dec 2, 2009 17:25
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MasterSlowPoke posted:
Warseer? Dakka? This post doesn't even make sense, why would someone need a lesbian knight?
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Dec 2, 2009 17:32
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The person didn't even request a lesbian knight.Aranan posted:Is there a place where I can get some precut pieces of MDF board? Like 1' x 1' squares or circles or something. Go to a hardware store and have them cut up a piece of 8'x10'x1/8" hardboard into 1x1 squares. It's like 10 bucks for the whole piece.
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Dec 2, 2009 17:39
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MasterSlowPoke posted:
What a coincidence - I was practicing some painting techniques on some of the gnolls from the Chainmail starter set which includes that knight. I thought that knight's face was so terrible that I didn't even bother assembling it for a practice piece.
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Dec 2, 2009 19:24
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Len posted:Once I get the money for paints I'm going to probably be testing out my hand on these before moving to my Warmachine poo poo. loving Mongoose publishing shutting down the game before I ever got to actually use my army anywhere. Rumor I heard was that TriStar pulled the license out from under them. I picked up some Future floor wax. As I understand it, a little to thin and a lot to wash? Also. Has anyone ever tried motorizing their tanks? Found this kit at Tamiya, got me thinking.. 
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Dec 2, 2009 19:26
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LewdMonocle posted:Rumor I heard was that TriStar pulled the license out from under them. No. You probably don't want to use FFW to thin paints, just use water for that. For a wash, 1:1 is probably more than enough unless you are doing something whacky that requires super thing coats. It will make things look glossy.
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Dec 2, 2009 19:29
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LewdMonocle posted:Also. Has anyone ever tried motorizing their tanks? Found this kit at Tamiya, got me thinking.. Warseer has quite a few projects where people have done this, so if you search there you'll probably find some tips. There's a remote control superheavy out there with moving turrets and a motor too.
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Dec 2, 2009 19:47
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Thanks. I'll stick to water. But I found this millipede pattern that I would like to reproduce:  Click here for the full 432x560 image. Would I wax my paints or just cover the finished model in a glossy varnish? Danger - Octopus! posted:moving turrets Oh wow! I'll have to check that out.
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Dec 2, 2009 19:54
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^^ If you want your mini to be highly reflective/shiny, then you'll want to hit it with a gloss varnish. I think FFW can be used as a varnish like that, but check out the link below to find out. Otherwise, if you want the whole model to have that finish, you can hit the whole thing with a spray of gloss varnish. If you just want the chitin plates to have the gloss finish, get some of the gloss that you apply by brush. Everything you've ever wanted to know about Future Floor Wax. Aranan fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Dec 2, 2009 |
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Dec 2, 2009 19:57
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'Ardcoat Gloss might work for that. I slapped some on the Termagant I posted a few pages back, which has a carapace in almost those exact colors, and it looks about as glossy as that. I'm not entirely pleased with it because it's very, very glossy and doesn't look as organic as I'd like, but that might be what you're looking for. Sidenote: Anyone have a link to a good pinning tutorial and a list of quality pinning-related products? Judging by the pictures of the new Tyranid models, I'm going to be doing a lot of loving pinning.
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Dec 2, 2009 22:28
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Nearly had heart failure last night when I was sealing my looted wagon. I thought the gloss or dullcote had skunked and was gonna ruin the whole thing. Luckily a couple more coats of dullcote seemed to make things right. But still, goddamn. What a way to ruin a model after all that work. (Insert pic of my first Vindicator here  )
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Dec 2, 2009 22:33
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If the matte skunks, gloss it and then matte it again
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Dec 2, 2009 22:50
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Gonna start coating my stuff. Future works through an airbrush straight from the bottle right? Or I could thin it with some iso alcohol to matte it right?
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Dec 2, 2009 23:25
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^^^ From that page I linked like 3 posts ago: quote:It is not necessary to thin this product prior to use. It can be applied directly from the bottle by either paintbrush or airbrush (15 to 20 psi), clean up with an ammonia-based window cleaner like Windex Kestral posted:pinning pinning pinning http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/239928.page I use the Citadel Hobby Drill, but that's certainly not the only (or probably best) option. In fact, it looks like PP sells a similar drill that comes with a bunch of brass rod that matches the drill bits for less than what GW asks. You can use a bunch of different stuff for pinning materials. Brass rod, paperclips, floral wire, steel wire, etc. I know I'm a P3 whore, but they also sell little packs of brass rod and matching drill bits so you don't have to search for the perfect sized paperclip. Aranan fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Dec 2, 2009 |
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Dec 2, 2009 23:26
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I was looking at some of Les's Awesomepaintjob videos and in one of them he busted out some dry pigments with rubbing alcohol for rust and weathering effects. His comments mention 90% isopropyl alcohol but all I can find in my area is 70% isopropyl alcohol. Does anyone have any idea what difference that would make?
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Dec 2, 2009 23:35
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Aranan posted:^^^ Yeah I know was just checking
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Dec 2, 2009 23:35
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crime fighting hog posted:Gonna start coating my stuff. Future works through an airbrush straight from the bottle right? Or I could thin it with some iso alcohol to matte it right? can always get the testors stuff in spray can, works pretty well.
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Dec 3, 2009 00:02
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Captain Scurvy posted:can always get the testors stuff in spray can, works pretty well. True, except for it comes in teeny tiny cans (that I can find) or I could buy one bottle of future and use that very nice airbrush I have and do my entire army and my friends in a few settings.
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Dec 3, 2009 01:17
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Future smells delicious, your army will smell delicious
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Dec 3, 2009 01:26
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PaintVagrant posted:Future smells delicious, your army will smell delicious If I had the sense of smell I would probably agree.
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Dec 3, 2009 01:26
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crime fighting hog posted:If I had the sense of smell I would probably agree.
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Dec 3, 2009 02:51
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!amicable posted:Taste it. If it tastes salty, you have cancer. Sorry.
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Dec 3, 2009 03:00
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Fyrbrand posted:If it tastes salty, you have cancer. Sorry. That's what she said.
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Dec 3, 2009 03:10
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!amicable posted:Taste it. Can't really do that either. No sense of smell means my sense of taste is pretty much non existent. Which is why priming stuff all day never bothers me.
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Dec 3, 2009 05:08
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crime fighting hog posted:Can't really do that either. No sense of smell means my sense of taste is pretty much non existent. Which is why priming stuff all day never bothers me. Bathe in it.
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Dec 3, 2009 05:10
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!amicable posted:Bathe in it. bingo
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Dec 3, 2009 05:10
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Anybody know of a good place to buy dropper bottles? I'm sick of fishing paint out of GW pots.
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Dec 3, 2009 05:34
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FirstCongoWar posted:Anybody know of a good place to buy dropper bottles? I'm sick of fishing paint out of GW pots. You can order them from warstore if you check their painting section.
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Dec 3, 2009 05:50
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crime fighting hog posted:Can't really do that either. No sense of smell means my sense of taste is pretty much non existent. Which is why priming stuff all day never bothers me. Also, if you get dropper bottles from Reaper (via the warstore) then they come with tiny pewter skulls to use as agitators. 
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Dec 3, 2009 06:01
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The Saddest Robot posted:I was looking at some of Les's Awesomepaintjob videos and in one of them he busted out some dry pigments with rubbing alcohol for rust and weathering effects. His comments mention 90% isopropyl alcohol but all I can find in my area is 70% isopropyl alcohol. Does anyone have any idea what difference that would make? I imagine it means that it will take longer to dry up, and might cause some stuff to get runny or clump more. Try a walgreens or CVS (if you are in the states, that is), the isopropyl alcohol I got there is 91%.
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Dec 3, 2009 10:22
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Looks like Leonardo DiCaprio. On other news, you can get dropper bottles from any art and craft supply store (Michael's, Hobby Lobby, etc) near their paints, usually in the same isle. If you mean the eye dropper kind of dropper bottles, try an iodine bottle. I have no idea how much iodine costs, but I don't imagine it would be so expensive that you couldn't buy it for just the bottle.
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Dec 3, 2009 11:33
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Wrapped up the doomwheel except for some grass on the base when it dries and a little decoration on the pennant maybe  
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Dec 3, 2009 13:16
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