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Zarkov Cortez posted:I mean which clan Not really sure yet. I guess I should clear up my question. I was wondering how to make the metal of the guns look the best.
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 01:30 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 01:34 |
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Boltgun Metal, Badab Black, broad highlight with boltgun, very tippy edge narrow highlight of Mithril Silver
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 02:44 |
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Somebody post some good kroot, I'm having trouble deciding how to do the skin tone on this one I've got on my desk
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 02:45 |
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Is there some kinda requirement that all online "tutorials" feature models shot with a blurry cell pic, and the model itself almost completely in shadows?
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 02:52 |
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Iron Squid posted:Is there some kinda requirement that all online "tutorials" feature models shot with a blurry cell pic, and the model itself almost completely in shadows? What would you like to know? If nobody will give you advice, I will.
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 02:58 |
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Broken Loose posted:Somebody post some good kroot, I'm having trouble deciding how to do the skin tone on this one I've got on my desk My pictures suck but a fast and easy way is half the yellow foundation/half knarloc green foundation for skin, bestial brown for the leather and wash all that poo poo devlan. Looks pretty decent and takes 20 minutes to do an entire squad.
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 03:16 |
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crime fighting hog posted:My pictures suck but a fast and easy way is half the yellow foundation/half knarloc green foundation for skin, bestial brown for the leather and wash all that poo poo devlan. Looks pretty decent and takes 20 minutes to do an entire squad. I don't want fast and easy. This, like that karskin sgt, is a single model belonging to a friend of mine that I'm painting for giggles. Also in the list:
And of course my backlog of over 350 Tyranid and Eldar minis.
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 03:25 |
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Broken Loose posted:Somebody post some good kroot, I'm having trouble deciding how to do the skin tone on this one I've got on my desk Beyond searching cmon vv Here is an unpatined kroot though,
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 03:26 |
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Aranan posted:If you just get one brush, I'd probably suggest a size 1. It will hold more paint and the W&N's hold a point pretty drat nicely, so you still get the precision. So a Size 1 for sure, a Size 0 if money allows. What's the deal with those W&N Pointed Round brushes? Are those like a thing that I shouldn't consider? I think it was linked in the OP that it's something to consider buying, but I am not exactly sure what their specific uses are.
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 03:36 |
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Broken Loose posted:I don't want fast and easy. This, like that karskin sgt, is a single model belonging to a friend of mine that I'm painting for giggles. I hear you. I've been doing nothing but simple poo poo for the last few months because I'm painting my roommate's tau and it sucks so god drat much
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 03:39 |
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Zarkov Cortez posted:Beyond searching cmon vv CMON is a minefield of horribly painted poo poo all voted 9.5 GOLEN DEAMON QUALITY and random NMM chrome-covered skullduggery
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 04:01 |
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Quick ork metal: boltgun devlan drybrush boltgun long version: boltgun badab orange wash in cracks devlan drybrush boltgun highlight edges with mithril
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 04:45 |
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When I drybrush something, should I just take a cheap, flat brush, dip it in the paint then rub it against some paper until almost all the paint is off the brush? Then press slightly hard against the model?
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 04:49 |
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Iron Squid posted:When I drybrush something, should I just take a cheap, flat brush, dip it in the paint then rub it against some paper until almost all the paint is off the brush? Then press slightly hard against the model? Yes cept the press hard part. You literally brush over the model kinda lightly but do it until you get the affect you want. Good drybrushing builds up kinda slow so you have control
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 04:50 |
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crime fighting hog posted:Yes cept the press hard part. You literally brush over the model kinda lightly but do it until you get the affect you want. Good drybrushing builds up kinda slow so you have control So its not just one pass, then? Just do it until it looks the way you want it to?
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 04:54 |
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Its always best to build it up. You cant really "un-drybrush" something without just repainting the base color again. So, less is more
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 04:55 |
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Pretty much. There is no one RIGHT way to do anything. Do what works for you. Experiment. Push the envelope. Watch it bend.
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 05:07 |
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It's totally normal to do one pass of drybrushing and not see a difference. The key is that after 10-15 light passes, you'll notice the highlighting effect. It also looks best when it's a gradual change so you don't have large splotches of paint where it was dragged off on the first few passes. On an unrelated note, I actually painted some today. Whee. vvvv I had that problem too, but it's just how painting works so I accepted it. Some paint gets wiped off, some dries on the palette, and some spills all over my desk. Aranan fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Dec 6, 2009 |
# ? Dec 6, 2009 05:31 |
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I always feel horrible when drybrushing. I wipe so much paint off before touching the model, I can't help but fret that I'm wasting huge amounts of precious paint.
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 05:45 |
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Anyone got some cool newbie terrain guides (maybe a few to go in da OP). Me and my friend usually play with books and other bullshit as terrain and it's kind of unsatisfying so I'd like to try and make something. I'd prefer guides that can teach me to do things with household materials so I don't have to leave my house to face the harsh sunlight.
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 07:14 |
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I know that GW used to make some pretty decent "how to make wargames terrain" type books.
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 07:15 |
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A Powerful Cream posted:Anyone got some cool newbie terrain guides (maybe a few to go in da OP). Me and my friend usually play with books and other bullshit as terrain and it's kind of unsatisfying so I'd like to try and make something. What, in particular, are you interested in building? At a minimum, you'll need some foamcore and some insulation foam, along with glue and heavy card paper. You can cut up cereal boxes for that part. The GW terrain book is excellent for starters, and you can search online and find tons of examples. It's really not very hard to build terrain, and even the crappiest thing you can do will be loads better than books and soda cans. I think my first terrain piece ever was a piece of packing foam from a computer part, with windows cut out, painted and drybrushed. That was it. And it worked.
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 07:47 |
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Well with my basing scheme I guess an industrial complex makes the most sense, but really anything! Craters, bare/patchy trees, crates/supplies, noxious goo pools etc. I guess I could just try experimenting with various containers I have around my house (waste barrels from dried up paint containers?) but having something to go off might be a good start, and the OP needs some terrain poo poo anyway!
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 07:52 |
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http://ironhands.com/gothic.htm
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 08:19 |
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I think rather than paint my entire Ork army, I'm going to pick four or five minis and paint each one differently to see what style I enjoy.
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 08:29 |
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Zarkov Cortez posted:http://ironhands.com/gothic.htm Holy poo poo, these are amazing, they seem a little bit complicated but I think I'm game to give them a crack, for better or worse!
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 08:38 |
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A Powerful Cream posted:Anyone got some cool newbie terrain guides (maybe a few to go in da OP). Me and my friend usually play with books and other bullshit as terrain and it's kind of unsatisfying so I'd like to try and make something. Terragenesis has been in my bookmarks for years and is still a favourite terrain site.
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# ? Dec 6, 2009 08:41 |
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Snikch incoming: Skarsnik fucked around with this message at 12:14 on May 21, 2014 |
# ? Dec 6, 2009 13:57 |
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PlaneGuy posted:Terragenesis has been in my bookmarks for years and is still a favourite terrain site. General terrain sites: http://salmondworks.com/ http://www.terrainthralls.com/Tutorials%20folder/Tutorials.html http://www.terragenesis.co.uk/ Buildings: Library and Windmill Cardboard Ruins Cheap Houses Fieldstone wall Mordheim Scenery Fuel Depot Fuel Refinery/Gas Station Karlsberg Mek Workshop Mordheim Ruins Necrotite Mining Rig Roadhouse Ruined Inn Stones: Feast of the Wolf Thatched Roof Construction Trollkin Buildings Village in 10 Steps Water Tower Natural: Birch Seed Leaves Floating Sacred Ground Simple Grapestem Hedges Simple Grapestem Trees Twisted Trees Swamps Trees Aranan fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Dec 7, 2009 |
# ? Dec 6, 2009 16:47 |
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What do you guys think of this technique to quickly paint an Ork army? http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/237797.page
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# ? Dec 7, 2009 08:35 |
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You can try something like this, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XpmZHUmzWCA Just ignore the product pushing Zarkov Cortez fucked around with this message at 08:49 on Dec 7, 2009 |
# ? Dec 7, 2009 08:46 |
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Zarkov Cortez posted:You can try something like this, The guy at the end of that video seems like such a massive pranny in every one of their videos.
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# ? Dec 7, 2009 12:05 |
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Iron Squid posted:What do you guys think of this technique to quickly paint an Ork army? I've got nothing but good things to say about this method, I've painted many dark elves with washes alone over white primer, my doomwheel & weapon team were both primed white, light coloured basecoat and wash with a little highlight touchup where necessary, it's fast and effective for big units especially if you skip hand highlighting and do it all with washes. Since foundations and washes I find white primer beats black every time unless you're painting a predominantly black model
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# ? Dec 7, 2009 12:22 |
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:The guy at the end of that video seems like such a massive pranny in every one of their videos. Hey! Backoff Miniwargamer Dave, he's cool. Well, actually he can be a bit much sometimes but miniwargaming.com is an impressively progressive and involved gaming store. I know they have their own profits in mind at the end of the day, but they do provide loads of tutorials, videos and contests via their site.
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# ? Dec 7, 2009 14:14 |
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Indolent Bastard posted:Hey! Backoff Miniwargamer Dave, he's cool. Well, actually he can be a bit much sometimes but miniwargaming.com is an impressively progressive and involved gaming store. I know they have their own profits in mind at the end of the day, but they do provide loads of tutorials, videos and contests via their site. You can use your miniwargaming.com amazing super brush
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# ? Dec 7, 2009 15:49 |
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Zarkov Cortez posted:You can use your miniwargaming.com amazing super brush Which if you placed an order in November you got for free. Seriously though, at the end of the day they are a retailer, they need to sell poo poo to survive. A little plugging of store products is hardly out of line.
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# ? Dec 7, 2009 18:11 |
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You ruined it (I got one free last time they had that promotion too) Zarkov Cortez fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Dec 7, 2009 |
# ? Dec 7, 2009 18:15 |
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Zarkov Cortez posted:You ruined it Awww...sorry I wrecked your fun. Here have a video of the miniwargaming crew being massive tools, as my way of apologizing. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U-MI_Jfg8uI&feature=channel
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# ? Dec 7, 2009 18:37 |
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Yog-Sothoth posted:I've got nothing but good things to say about this method, I've painted many dark elves with washes alone over white primer, my doomwheel & weapon team were both primed white, light coloured basecoat and wash with a little highlight touchup where necessary, it's fast and effective for big units especially if you skip hand highlighting and do it all with washes. Since foundations and washes I find white primer beats black every time unless you're painting a predominantly black model Do you have any photos of the work you've done like this?
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# ? Dec 7, 2009 22:49 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 01:34 |
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a 1 hour 1/72 scale ww2 tank
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# ? Dec 7, 2009 22:49 |