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I should just make an air compressor help thread.  A couple things, 1. My guess is that you have a cheapish(not $2000) compressor and are using the on tank regulator to set your pressure. These regulators are notoriously poo poo, give poor measurements, and don't flow for crap. On really lovely compressors it's common to have a 1/8" line running to the regulator and a 1/4" coming out. The simple solution you've already figured out, set the regulator for higher psi and the increased pressure will compensate some for the lack of flow. Don't go too high or you could damage the gun or the trigger mechanism. The reason those huge impact guns work so well on a lovely compressor is that you get at least one good belt in before the line pressure drops. That first hit knocks the nut free, and it spins off easily with lower pressure. This is also why it sometimes works better to do several short bursts on a nut. 2. An impact wrench that's rated for 250ft-lbs can tighten a nut to 250ft-lbs under ideal circumstances if you let it hammer away for a couple minutes with all the air it could ever need. Or it can't and the advertising team just made up some bullshit number.
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Dec 4, 2009 00:28
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ahh, correct on the cheapish compressor. I just figured as long as the tank is charged its good even if its cheap. never even thought about bitty little lines going to the regulator or lovely regulator itself. I bought the husky compressor (only 1.5hp and oilless but it is 30 gallons at least) I have because I needed a 110v one right away and it was cheap on CL, its not my "dream" one. I'm gonna get something better once I have some money and time to do a 220 line.
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Dec 4, 2009 01:26
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Better regulators aren't that expensive. $30 will get you a nice one. Metal body, built in gauge, +-3% psi, and plenty of flow for minimal pressure drop. These don't come on consumer air compressors because it would turn a $100 compressor into a $115 compressor and they'd lose some sales. Consumer compressors make me angry.
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Dec 4, 2009 02:26
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Would that go on in place of the factory regulator? with the factory plumbing? or would I tap the tank myself some how (I have a friend could weld a bung on) to have a bigger input line to it? edit: and is there a good way to test if my regulator isnt flowing enough? how much the pressure drops on the regulator guage if I'm tightening something? should it drop at all? cause it does. Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Dec 4, 2009 |
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Dec 4, 2009 03:19
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In place of. The stock regulator should be screwed onto a pipe coming out of the tank. Ideally that pipe should be 1/4" or 3/8" NPT, you can easily test this with some pipe fittings from the hardware store. If so, get some pipe sealant(don't use teflon tape) and screw the new regulator down just tight enough that it doesn't leak under pressure. There will be an arrow or something on the regulator to indicate flow direction. The other end gets a female quick disconnect and you're good to go. Of course, the pipe coming from the tank could also be 1/8" NPT, some random chinese threading, or even a flare nut. If it's 1/8" NPT you can get an adapter, otherwise you're screwed. Some consumer compressors also run the motor start/stop switch off the regulator because their reckless fucks who care more about saving $2 than your life. If there are any wires going to the regulator then you're screwed. By the way, 1/4" NPT has a nominal inner diameter of around 3/8". 3/8" NPT has a nominal ID of around 1/2". That's why your fittings are all 1/4" NPT but you need 3/8" hose.
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Dec 4, 2009 03:47
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Ok I looked, had to take a torx-screwed "stay-out" cover off but the tank is tapped with what looks like 1/4" npt fitting just like an air hose, the tube coming out of those fittings to the regulator is probably 1/4". The pressure switch is not in the regulator but the regulator is tapped for air on the high side with a line going to the pressure switch, that bad? The regulator is a weird looking bastard, I noticed the tank has a big 1.5" or 2" pipe plug in the side, could I take that out and put some kind of regulator there instead of hacking up the plastic cover to replace this strange looking thing? (return it to factory config easier to sell it later) I'd like this compressor to do a bit more for me for maybe another year until I can get something better, if it's not worth the trouble I can live with it. Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Dec 4, 2009 |
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Dec 4, 2009 04:32
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The easy way to test for proper flow is to attach a gauge to the tool with a T-fitting and see how much pressure drop you get under load. Set the regulator so you see 90psi under no load. If you pull the trigger and it instantly drops to 60psi then you've got a problem. You'll always have some drop, but you want it as small as possible. Realistically on a cheap gun like that if you can start at 100-110psi and wind up around 90 then you'll be fine. Worst case scenario is you break the gun. If you break the gun you can buy a bigger one that will remove nuts in the first 1/2 second and all will be well. Wagonburner posted:The regulator is a weird looking bastard, I noticed the tank has a big 1.5" or 2" pipe plug in the side, could I take that out and put some kind of regulator there instead of hacking up the plastic cover to replace this strange looking thing? (return it to factory config easier to sell it later) That would be an inspection plug most likely. Messing with it could be dangerous. If a 1/4" fitting lets go you get a small projectile and a loud hissing. If a 2" fitting lets go the whole tank could go flying. The plug holds so it'll hold pressure, but how well will it hold up to you tripping on a hose and knocking it over? Just something to keep in mind. My compressor has no regulator or outlet on top, just the pressure switch. There is a 3/4" NPT bung welded onto the side of the tank and you either attach a regulator or plumb it into a larger system. You have 4 options. 1. Crank the stock regulator wide open and install a second one downstream. This could wind up being worse than just the stock reg. 2. Leave the stock regulator alone and plumb a fitting into that 1.5-2" bung on the side of the tank. This could potentially explode. 3. Remove the whole regulator and switch assembly and replace it with new, standard parts. This would cost about $150 and could explode if you do it wrong. 4. Get by with the stock regulator until you can afford a compressor that doesn't suck.
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Dec 4, 2009 05:12
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Wagonburner posted:Why won't my lovely air compressor run my inpact guns? I'm glad wagonburner asked this question. I got a smoking deal on a couple of cheap pneumatic impact wrenches at Nothern Tool, and I too was disappointed with the performance. The "400 ft-lb" 1/2 one couldn't remove my 90 ft-lb lug studs, whereas my trusty 'lectric impact still made short work of them. I knew my POS pancake compressor wasn't really up to the task, but now I REALLY know it's not up to the task. Maybe Santa will bring something better...
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Dec 4, 2009 05:50
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Something better, http://www.eatoncompressor.com/catalog/item/504747/172983.htm
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Dec 4, 2009 09:10
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all you have to do is get a tee and run a line from the tee to the pressure switch and out the other part of the tee your line to the regulator or after the regulator however it goes.
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Dec 4, 2009 18:14
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Lowclock posted:It was in northeastern Ohio for about 4 years and Arizona for 2. It doesn't get really heavy use. I probably cycle it like once a day average I'd say. It's a standing model and the drain plug is on the bottom of the tank. I just had to replace the case seal on the motor because it was leaking, but it was always full of oil. No dryer or filter. I was expecting some nasty poo poo but this is ok too! I drained my 60gal today and got 1/2gal of very ugly water out. Last summer, when I was using it a lot, I was getting 1/4gal a week. I have a line dryer down stream to keep it out of the tools at least. Any way to keep the water from getting in there in the first place? It's a 60gal oil less Craftsman.
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Dec 4, 2009 23:57
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Glynis27 posted:I drained my 60gal today and got 1/2gal of very ugly water out. There are auto drains that do a great job and don't waste too much air. You should still drain at the end of the day, but at least it won't build up as much. edit: You can keep the water from getting in in the first place, but it's really expensive and not really necessary.
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Dec 5, 2009 00:09
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oxbrain posted:There are auto drains that do a great job and don't waste too much air. You should still drain at the end of the day, but at least it won't build up as much. Cool! That should do the trick. I have the compressor installed in the attic of the garage (because it is so drat loud) and draining it is a real bitch. Because of that, I very rarely drain it, like once a year rarely or after heavy use. Ooops. Glynis27 fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Dec 5, 2009 |
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Dec 5, 2009 00:42
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60 gallons at 125psi is like a bomb. You REALLY don't want that tank exploding. If you're lucky you'll just have to fix the hole in the wall/roof.
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Dec 5, 2009 01:05
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You can always pressure test your tank by plugging all the ports except two at the top and fill tank with water. Then put a pressure gauge in one fitting and a grease fitting in the other and fill a grease gun with water and pump it to above the pressure of your regulator setting.
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Dec 5, 2009 07:09
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This thread has turned into an air-tank wank-fest. Not that I'm complaining, I'll be hell of interested and read back up as soon as I decide I need one; the trouble is, when I check out new posts in this thread for the last couple weeks, I've been pretty bored, and I liked this thread. Maybe I can help myself. Tell me about King Dick tools (or speculate wildly). http://www.kingdicktools.co.uk/ Here in America, with a name like King Dick, in loving huge letters, these tools might be pleasingly Does anyone in here use them? I would like to know more.
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Dec 5, 2009 07:31
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Splizwarf posted:Tell me about King Dick tools (or speculate wildly). http://www.kingdicktools.co.uk/ Kind Dick tools are ok - They are properly sized (neither to tight or to loose on nuts, unlike really cheap nasty tools) and are made of decent steel. We use quite a lot of King Dick stuff at work. There are nicer tools out there, but King Dick is perfectly serviceable. Oh and the name still causes plenty of childish amusement here in the UK.
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Dec 5, 2009 11:31
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I need to fix one of my son's toys, but it's got these asinine triange-socket screws. Where can I find a screwdriver for removing them? I've got a full set of odd screwdriver bits, but no triangles. I'm thinking dollar tree and a grinder would be easiest.
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Dec 5, 2009 16:09
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I got some of those out with just a perfect-sized flathead, was a little pocket-clip give-away kind with some company's name on it. My cause was less-noble than yours though, I was looking for ag44 cells to steal from my kids old happy meal toys. Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Dec 5, 2009 |
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Dec 5, 2009 17:03
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grover posted:I need to fix one of my son's toys, but it's got these asinine triange-socket screws. Where can I find a screwdriver for removing them? I've got a full set of odd screwdriver bits, but no triangles. I'm thinking dollar tree and a grinder would be easiest. $8 at Harbor Freight gets you all the oddball fastener bits you'll probably ever bump into: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91310
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Dec 5, 2009 17:07
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EVERYWHERE 
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That's a cool set. It cracks me up that a bit for wing nuts is included in a security bit set.
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Dec 5, 2009 18:57
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As long as it's not too small or too tight, you can take the end of a BIC pen and get it hot and melting and press it into the screw.
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Dec 5, 2009 19:03
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Wagonburner posted:I got some of those out with just a perfect-sized flathead, was a little pocket-clip give-away kind with some company's name on it.  Good news is: I got it fixed! Will me a much happier christmas getting a working toy as oppose to a broken one. Thanks for the help, guys. grover fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Dec 5, 2009 |
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Dec 5, 2009 20:58
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Lowclock posted:As long as it's not too small or too tight, you can take the end of a BIC pen and get it hot and melting and press it into the screw.
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Dec 6, 2009 08:20
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I've never seen these ("Triwing") screws used by anyone other than Nintendo, but this was pretty much the method I've always used.
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Dec 6, 2009 18:15
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I just traded my alright 33 gallon craftsman compressor like this: for this:  Straight trade, it's just missing a regulator. I love craigslist. What sucks is that when we picked it up out of the truck, my buddy didn't have a good grip and requested we lower it right to the ground. I lowered slowly and he lowered quick and it tipped towards him and fell right over onto my garbage can which let it absorb some shock into the fill tube and then it went to the ground where it bent the cage a tiny bit. I took the tube off and was able to put a screwdriver in there and bend the kink out. It's not perfect, but I'm guessing it'll be alright.  Click here for the full 640x427 image. You can see the repaired dent a little in this picture. This is the outlet hole on the side of the tank :  I'm guessing thats 3/4" NPT? Do they make any regulators that will go right onto this or do I need to buy a reducer to step it down? The biggest regulator I found online was a nice Bosch that had 1/2". ease fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Dec 6, 2009 |
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Dec 6, 2009 18:32
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I won a cordless impact wrench as a door prize last night.  
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Dec 6, 2009 23:26
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grover posted:I won a cordless impact wrench as a door prize last night. Please let me know your impression of it. I'm in the market for a 1/2" cordless impact, and $100 seems like a really good price for tool, charger, and two batteries.
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Dec 7, 2009 03:04
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ease posted:my buddy didn't have a good grip and requested we lower it right to the ground. I lowered slowly and he lowered quick and it tipped towards him and fell right over onto my garbage can which let it absorb some shock into the fill tube and then it went to the ground where it bent the cage a tiny bit. How heavy are those things? i have often wondered how people get them in their garage and home from wherever they bought it.
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Dec 7, 2009 03:14
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Sexual Lorax posted:Please let me know your impression of it. I'm in the market for a 1/2" cordless impact, and $100 seems like a really good price for tool, charger, and two batteries. Edit: I take that back, I need to change the brake pads on my wife's 4Runner, but we were unable to loosen the bolts, even after lowering the jack and dropping the weight of the truck on the ratchet handle. This will be a PERFECT test for it. I'll post back the the results, but it may be a few days until I get a chance to do it. grover fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Dec 7, 2009 |
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Dec 7, 2009 03:52
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That impact wrench looks great, especially if it can get big suspension bolts off without huge breaker bars.
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Dec 7, 2009 03:57
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Landshark posted:How heavy are those things? i have often wondered how people get them in their garage and home from wherever they bought it. not as heavy as you'd think. probably somewhere around 175lbs maybe a bit more. just awkward to lift
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Dec 7, 2009 05:18
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ease posted:That's a pretty good trade. Just be sure to bolt it down or strap it to the wall ASAP. Measure that outlet bung hole, if it's 1" then it's 3/4" NPT, if it's 3/4" then it's 1/2" NPT. A 3/8" regulator will flow enough for basically any tool you can lift one handed. I'd get a set of adapters from whatever that bung is to 3/8" NPT, buy this, another adapter down to 1/4" NPT, then a quick disconnect. Maybe use an elbow bend so it's not all sticking straight out. Don't do this, 
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Dec 7, 2009 06:05
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Haha where is the regulator on that pic? What the gently caress.
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Dec 7, 2009 13:21
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Sexual Lorax posted:Please let me know your impression of it. I'm in the market for a 1/2" cordless impact, and $100 seems like a really good price for tool, charger, and two batteries. I've had the same one for two years or so now. The charge in the battery really makes a difference regarding what sort of work it can do. Unfortunately, the only way you start to notice your battery is running down is failure to loosen a fastener. Overall, it is a fairly decent tool for the price, but it does have its limitations. If you're looking for something to use trackside for wheel changes, it works very well. If you're looking for something to break loose every fastener you haven't been able to loosen with a breaker bar, this isn't the tool for you. Then again, unless you're spending quite a bit more either on an air setup or on an extremely expensive electric impact, you won't be doing much better. The fact that the wrench is cordless makes many of these shortcomings forgivable - you get a lot more use out of it since it is just grab and use. Additionally, when I bought it, it came with two batteries, which certainly comes in handy when doing actual work.
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Dec 7, 2009 17:11
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grover posted:we were unable to loosen the bolts, even after lowering the jack and dropping the weight of the truck on the ratchet handle. A 4' pipe on the end of the ratchet or breaker bar should do the trick if your impact cant get it done. Never thought of lowering the car onto the ratchet tho, thats funny. God drat tire shops putting wheels on with impact guns at 950lbs. ease fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Dec 7, 2009 |
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Dec 7, 2009 18:52
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ease posted:Haha where is the regulator on that pic? What the gently caress. No regulator, and it was mounted in the back of a box truck with that 8" thing hanging out where anything could snap it off. My only hope is they were using it exclusively for a blow gun or some tool that likes 135psi.
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Dec 7, 2009 20:24
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oxbrain posted:On really lovely compressors it's common to have a 1/8" line running to the regulator and a 1/4" coming out. drat you're not kidding about that. I was just at atwoods at lunch and walked by their compressors, they had some $400+ 30-60 gallon 220 volt 2 stage ones with a line going tank to regulator that looks like a drat brake hardline! They had 1/4" going from the pumps to the tanks that even had some fins on it to cool the charge I guess but once it's in the tank I guess they don't expect you to do much with it. And even my lovely 1.5hp husky that I've been whining about in this thread at least has 1/4" (and a lovely regulator mounted to it, but hey) Vin BioEthanol fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Dec 7, 2009 |
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Dec 7, 2009 21:24
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 "Nut staking tool" I'm working on my $50 festiva and I'm putting together the rear spindle/bearings/brake drum. Where can I get a magical tool that I put over the nut from the end, and hit to stake the nut? Since the official procedure is to only finger tighten the nut it tends to spin when you start whacking at it with a punch.
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Dec 9, 2009 07:40
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Maybe not the right place to ask (also could've been asked but I missed it), but do you guys have any recommendations on good starter tools to buy? I always used to borrow my dad's socket set for stuff before, but I live 3,000 miles away from home, and I'm completely tool-less. What's a good laundry list of must-have tools for someone just getting into doing their own mechanic stuff? I doubt I'll go much past changing my own oil, but I'm a cheap bastard who will replace non-complicated stuff to save cash. So I doubt I'll need an engine hoist, but it'd be nice to know what tools would be handy to have around if I wind up doing something a bit more advanced than changing an air filter. I imagine a decent socket set is indispensable. Anything else?
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Dec 9, 2009 08:54
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