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kimbo305 posted:It's not that convolutedly shaped, is it? You could sawzall it out it segment by segment. That is true. I *could* sawzall it at the base of each U. I'd have to look though, it would still be really tight. I'll put this as option Z though.
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Dec 7, 2009 05:54
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Sponge! posted:Fixed in the name of You're right. What am I trying to say here? There's a wired connection from point A to point D, and I get to avoid the lossy solution of the FM radio adapters. I've actually made road trips with a battery powered ipod radio because I'm so disappointed in the quality of radio transceivers.
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Dec 7, 2009 06:02
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GWBBQ posted:I forget what brand of carpet cleaner I have, but they sell it at BJ's, it's in a blue and white aerosol can, and judging by smell it's somewhere around 125% ammonia. Made a car that gave me such a bad asthma attack I almost added a panic attack to the mix into my beater/daily driver for months. Removed what I estimate to be 5 to 6 pounds of coffee stains and turned brown upholstery into cream colored again. That stuff and a stiff-bristled brush can take out anything. It's almost time for a trip to the Beej anyway, I'll look for it. I'm taking the bissell carpet steamer out of retirement to give everything a good thorough cleaning with the upholstery attachment.
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Dec 7, 2009 06:04
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Yesterday I put a remote start in my mantran 1998 Ford ZX2. I also swapped all-season tires onto my ZX2 and snow tires onto my mom's AWD CR-V (she delivers mail and HATES snow). It came in handy right away since it snowed a couple inches last night but the car was toasty warm and ready to go. Unfortunately the rear window defroster on my ZX2 doesn't work anymore after stripping the window tint off the back window. Grr.
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Dec 7, 2009 16:29
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I ordered a new steering wheel to be custom made for it.. It will look close to this:  Except it will match my inlaid Birdseye maple trim instead of CF.
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Dec 7, 2009 20:00
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Replaced my driver's side turn signal bulb. Apparently my bulbs hate cold weather. Also, Mr.Peabody, that is one loving hot steering wheel.
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Dec 8, 2009 03:49
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dissss posted:Could have been worse. This popped up on a local message board today: Oh god, where is this because I need a new front end?
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Dec 8, 2009 03:52
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Wheels came today.  Aesthetically, they're acceptable. They still have nine spokes, and I've gotten used to the red car/dark wheel look with the RS 4's winter setup. This look should work better on the TT due to its lesser amount of aluminum-colored trim. Functionally, though, I'll let the "Lightness Certificate" speak for itself. This is doubly beneficial since the Dunlops weigh 4 lb more apiece than the PS2s they're replacing.    OZs and Dunlops:  OEM 9-spokes and worn PS2s:  Again, I can't wait for spring. 
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Dec 8, 2009 05:29
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I have repeatedly failed to remove the broken stud from the engine subframe in the ZX2 i'm working on. I've tried two grabber kits. One you pound on, then spin, and one that you press on to the end and spin. The pound on one refuses to pound on. I've used a 4 pound sledge and an air hammer with a solid brass rod. I did get one of the pound on removal tools fully seated on the stud, but it just spun off what little threads it was gripping. The next size down just will not cut the threads. The spin during contact set has one bit that grips tightly, but just slowly shaves bits of metal off. The bolt in question is a 8.8 grade M10-1.25 bolt. The head snapped off and the stud remains in the frame. I hole sawed a 1.25" hole, (enlarged a hole, really) in the sub frame to get at the bottom of the bolt. The top is 100% right out without removing the entire sub frame from the vehicle and then taking the engine off the sub frame. $65 in removal tools down the drain. My dad found this Quik Center and ordered one yesterday. I'm dubious about its ability to get out the bolt, but i'm out of ideas.
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Dec 8, 2009 21:44
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Yesterday my used MTM Stage 1+ ECU finally came in after a month of waiting for it. Today I installed it. Only drove it a couple miles and stuck in traffic most of the time so I haven't gotten a chance to open it up and see how much of a difference I feel but I'll be going out later tonight to rip around a little bit.
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Dec 8, 2009 23:33
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My battery had a hell of a time starting my car this morning (it was 5° F on my way in to work this morning) so I load-tested the battery at work and it failed pretty badly. It was at 11.99V after sitting in my car for three hours so I figured it wasn't holding a charge very well. I swapped in a spare we had at work (which tests fine), and will probably replace my own battery this weekend.
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Dec 10, 2009 20:47
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I just put a new serpentine belt on my Jeep, the old one has raced so badly an entire rib has worn off. After that I finally got around to replacing my dipstick. Back in the spring I bumped the handle and it snapped off and every attempt to yank the dipstick out sent it further down the shaft. I had to remove the dipstick shaft in order to get the old one out. But at least I can check my oil again properly!
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Dec 10, 2009 21:51
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Gave the Cherokee a little TLC in this frigid weather: replaced the O2 and CPS sensors Magnaflow hi-flow cat and Flowmaster Super44 off-road muffler Husky heavy duty rubber floormats white vinyls for the gauges LED's for the gauges, trans/t-case selectors, HVAC controls and footwells 1.5" TNT Customs lift shackles hounded the guy making my custom tucked winch bumper
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Dec 10, 2009 23:51
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I put winter wiper blades on my 92 Honda Accord and my 98 Ford ZX2 and my wife's 00 Accord EX. After work my sister is coming by to have her new snow tires put on her 08 Altima. She bought steel wheels from The Tire Rack so the tires are already mounted and balanced. I was going to drive my 92 Accord to work today but the doors were both frozen shut. I took my wife's car to work instead. Eventually it warmed up enough to get the old car open so my wife put it in the garage to defrost. And speaking of defrost I had a local glass company come out and replace the back glass in my ZX2. The tab broke off for the defroster so I have to take it into the glass shop tomorrow so they can fix it. Then it goes to the tint shop on Monday to have the glass tinted correctly.
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Dec 11, 2009 00:22
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Sanded down the rust in the wheel well, and painted over it with some black paint. Waiting a couple days to put some undercoating on over that. Also I pulled the seats out of the miata in preparation for the Corbeau's that are going in, and pulled the rear deck carpet to replace with a better piece with less holes in it. I think the PO put a style bar in the car and cut the carpet where necessary. I found another one that was uncut and now I just have to hack it so it goes around my roll bar nicely. Should look better when all said and done. Still to go this winter... -replace radiator and hoses -timing belt and water pump -paint valve cover -brake pads all around -install frame rail braces -coilovers? shock mounts? new wheels? Money pit. 
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Dec 11, 2009 03:06
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Got halfway through fixing the lack of heat. Again. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKXCaYMbRLs e: It's not the best forum, but they're damned helpful sometimes. http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1932217#Post1932217 Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Dec 12, 2009 |
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Dec 11, 2009 22:33
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Replaced the front drivers side wheel bearing. Now it doesn't squeal like a weasel stuck in a garbage disposal.
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Dec 11, 2009 22:52
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Replaced the 740's hood with blue junkyard one (previous was hosed by a deer hit) now I just need to scrape up 110-130 to get the whole 940 front end from the junk yard (lights, signals, grill, bezel) As a bonus the car gains foglights! Just gotta grab the switch + wiring too. Also I think the car has a little knock going on, only heard it idling while ice cold but it could of been something else, car runs like hell due to being driven very short distances every day for the past 3-4 months (1 mile to a job and 1 mile back). Oil is a gray color and reeks of gas, exhast is broken at the flange before the cat and the radiator is sorta floating there attached via hoses only. gently caress this car is getting expensive, but I love it so much. Need to sell and buy a turbo brick instead, try to get a 740 wagon with the t5.
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Dec 12, 2009 01:46
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Replaced my 'borrowed battery' from work with a new one from Autozone. It actually came with the vent hosing, but the stuff wasn't hooked up to my current battery and I have no idea where it goes anyway, so I'll probably leave it off. 700 CCA @ 0°F 
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Dec 13, 2009 00:26
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Test fit next years track wheels and took some very blue pictures    18x9.5 and 18x10.5 RPF1's with 285/35/18 and 305/35/18 555r2's Drops 62 lbs of rotational weight compared to the stock wheels with 275/40/20's and adds quite a bit more and stickier rubber.
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Dec 13, 2009 01:05
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Skyssx posted:I have repeatedly failed to remove the broken stud from the engine subframe in the ZX2 i'm working on. Sears has a Lyle brand stud remover I absolutely love. Took out a few broken header bolts for me, that nothing else would. Otherwise, call up a few local 'mobile' mechanics, see if they have EMF (?) broken stud removal. I have heard wonderful things about this. Its a little expensive, but its supposed to work wonderfully. Its a electrical arc type removal thing. I don't quite understand it, but its supposed to be wonderful.
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Dec 13, 2009 08:07
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Replaced this: scope those sweet bends... With this:   HKS Hi-Power Completely overkill right now, but it was cheap, and I needed to replace that stock garbage, especially since I didnt have a muffler, also hopefully in the summer there will be a turbo engine in the bay to make the use of that pipe diameter. Oh also got new wheels and tires, 5Zigen ZR+520, 17x8 et+25. Hankook Ventus RS2s from the Tire Rack sale a few months back.  
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Dec 13, 2009 10:06
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Alarm and three point immobilizer tied to the central locking I installed the other week. If someone really wants to steal my bright yellow 1981 Volvo, they're drat well gonna have to fight for it!
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Dec 13, 2009 10:37
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Replaced the radiator on my MR2. Fixed my broken Radiator fan switch. Replaced both front hoses with new clamps. Flushed the whole system, bled and filled. All in the rain, god that sucked.
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Dec 13, 2009 22:20
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Sat at a stop light and a semi was making a left turn onto the road I was on, so I let the car roll back a bit to give him more room. That's when I heard a horn and I rolled back into another car.  Didn't do any damage to her car though at least, I think I lost some more paint off my beater.
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Dec 14, 2009 01:29
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Nothing to MY ride today, but I did replace the spark plug in my dad's snowblower. It's kind of an amusing take. My father is completely inept when it comes to any form of mechanical skills. He calls me: "Can you come over, I've been trying to get this spark plug out for 45 minutes! I broke the end off. I'm using pliers."  I go over there, get my tools out of my toolbox which I keep in his garage and by the time he has his jacket on and come out to the garage, I'm done. Old one out, new one gapped and installed. pliers.
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Dec 14, 2009 01:52
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I'd planned to drive my car to an underground, heated parking lot today to get under it and maybe replace the thermostat. It was -28*C out there this afternoon, which contributed to the battery failing to start the car. It was old and a couple of goons here on these forums had told me to get a new one ASAP to protect my alternator, so I'd bought one yesterday while running around getting other stuff. Good thing, too, I wasn't about to crawl under my car at those temperatures. New battery in, but not strapped down properly because my fingers were freezing solid inside my gloves trying to hold the bracket and turn the nuts. The new battery was able to start the car without any serious complaints, and after the engine had a good 10 minutes to warm up, I drove to the underground parking lot. They charge $3 per exit on weekends, which is a fair price to be able to work in a t-shirt, amongst puddles from melting snow. I got under my car for the first time. Yesterday I'd also bought a new 4-ton bottle jack (they were sold out of the 2-ton model) and a couple of jackstands, so I learned how to lift my car. The bottle jack is about 1cm too tall to get into the jacking point for the front wheels, but is fine for the back. The scissor jack that came with the car is in quite good shape and worked well to lift the car enough to get the hydraulic jack in there. Pumping a hydraulic jack is about 10 times faster and less annoying than turning the screw on a scissor jack. The good news is there was much less rust than I'd feared. Everything was covered with a layer of crusty brown dirt, certainly the result of my foolish hobby of driving around on gravel roads. But the rust was restricted to body panels, and I didn't see any on frame components, brake components, the exhaust system, etc. The bad news is the "partial" crack in a CV-joint boot reported by my mechanic a couple of months ago has expanded, and now cuts right through the boot. There was grease, obviously from inside the boot, splattered lightly around the inside of the front right wheel.  More bad news at the rear, but less serious. The mechanic had also reported my rear sway-bar links had rusted out completely. He wasn't lying!  This is the right side. The left looks the same. I gather these link kits are about $10 each, and don't look too hard to replace. I haven't noticed a problem with the handling or the rear suspension, so I'll probably wait until the weather turns nice or I'm really bored before trying to fix this. I decided not to try to replace the thermostat today, and I just topped up the coolant reservoir - it was quite low. I need to have words with my mechanic, they've done a couple of rounds of work on my cooling system, and it's not working properly, yet. Because everyone else was doing it and I just want to be popular, I wired some cardboard onto the grill to cut the very-loving-cold airflow past the radiator.  Hello, ladies! Finally, an aftermarket Yoda install.  The first thing he said after I put him on the dashboard was "You must... feel the Force around you!"
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Dec 14, 2009 03:55
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I put on my roof racks. Road trip coming up in a week:
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Dec 14, 2009 04:06
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ExecuDork posted:
No, no, no, pop the hood and slide it down between the body and the radiator. Those little bits ont he grille won't do poo poo... :-/
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Dec 14, 2009 05:08
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Sponge! posted:No, no, no, pop the hood and slide it down between the body and the radiator. Those little bits ont he grille won't do poo poo... :-/ It makes the car look  though!
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Dec 14, 2009 05:21
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Sponge! posted:No, no, no, pop the hood and slide it down between the body and the radiator. Those little bits ont he grille won't do poo poo... :-/ The current setup is indeed ineffective.
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Dec 14, 2009 05:26
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ExecuDork posted:I considered that, but there's some coil thing in front of the lower part of the radiator, and I wanted to block airflow over that. More cardboard tomorrow, I guess. That coil thing is your AC condenser... No need to block that. Your oil and ATF coolers are built into the radiator core itself.
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Dec 14, 2009 05:30
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ExecuDork posted:
These commonly break because the Honda parts are spindly little things that really can't take the stress placed on them very well, and don't hold up over time. Replacement OEMs will only fail again prematurely, especially if you plan on doing any spirited driving. Mine were also broken when I got my car. There are a couple people on preludepower.com that make much beefier sets that can handle abuse, plus they come with much stiffer poly bushings. Some are even adjustable. I have a set of the non-adjustable ones that I bought from someone on the site, and they're awesome. Having non-broken endlinks makes a night-and-day difference in how your car handles, also.
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Dec 14, 2009 06:06
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I found out here in Germany there is color coded SPRAY PAINT for all German cars. Do they have this in the US? I know there's the touch up bottles, but I don't ever remember seeing color coded base paint spray paints. Anyways, I took this to my advantage to paint my rear calipers to match my body color. Unfortunately, it decided to snow once the rears were dry so I haven't started the fronts yet. Here's a quick before and after pic... 
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Dec 14, 2009 19:21
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Yesterday I fixed my wife's Taurus' power mirrors and the technique might fix yours too. My Jeep Grand Cherokee's driver mirror had been randomly resetting its position when I'd get in. It has the memory feature where you set the seat and mirror position, and it automatically adjusts when you hit the remote unlock. Well, randomly it decided that my mirror should be pointing at the pavement, no matter how many times I'd reset it. So I added it to the mental list of poo poo that isn't important enough to fix right now. Fast-forward to a couple weeks ago trying to fix my electrical gremlins - while reading the Jeep forums I run across a post that offers a simple fix for power mirrors that are doing what mine are doing. It can't be that simple can it? All you do is get in the car and run the mirror through the extreme edges of movement a few times. Yes, that's it. What I did was to move the mirror all the way down until it stops or starts jumping. Then go all the way left. Then up. Then right, then repeat that a couple times. Sonofabitch, it worked! It no longer randomly resets itself. It was explained that dirt and crap gets in the gears and moving it through the limits somehow cleans/forces that crap out. Yesterday, I decided to try the same thing on her Taurus - the mirrors were slow, sluggish, and didn't want to hardly move inward at all. So I ran her mirrors through the extremes a couple times, and holy poo poo, they move like they're brand new now! It's really loving freaky, and I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't do it myself. So if your mirrors are sluggish, give it a shot! Easiest fix ever! Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Dec 14, 2009 |
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Dec 14, 2009 21:44
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Added coolant to my reservoir, it was a bit low. I always seem to go through coolant at a quicker pace in winter. Anybody know why? Not a lot, maybe 8oz a month or so. It's not going into my oil as far as I know.
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Dec 14, 2009 21:58
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CornHolio posted:Added coolant to my reservoir, it was a bit low. I always seem to go through coolant at a quicker pace in winter. Anybody know why? Not a lot, maybe 8oz a month or so. It's not going into my oil as far as I know. Pinhole in the heater core maybe? If you have to fill the overflow bottle, you should pop the rad cap and top it up too, it's usually low if the overflow is below or at the "min" mark.
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Dec 14, 2009 22:04
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Sponge! posted:Pinhole in the heater core maybe? If you have to fill the overflow bottle, you should pop the rad cap and top it up too, it's usually low if the overflow is below or at the "min" mark. My overflow tank filler (what gets low) and my radiator cap are one and the same. (Not my pictures)   I haven't seen any leaks anywhere... odd... could it be seeming into the crankcase at extremely cold temperatures only to evaporate when the engine hits operating temperature?
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Dec 14, 2009 22:14
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Hypnolobster posted:Seriously, if I can't fix it this time, I'm going to thread some mechanics wire and a coathanger to the end of the blend door so I can reach over under the passenger side dash and adjust the heat. Sponge! posted:Get a gearshift thing off of a bicycle... Working adjustable ratio blend door. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPMbdTpC9Tw today I finished my blend door fixing. I'm getting REALLY GOOD at taking the dash out of the car now! Second time in about 3 weeks, and it took about an hour to pull it off this time and about 30 minutes to put it back up. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Dec 15, 2009 |
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Dec 15, 2009 02:45
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Hypnolobster posted:Update! Glad to be of help. 
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Dec 15, 2009 04:46
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