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Monkey Wrangler posted:Maybe not the right place to ask (also could've been asked but I missed it), but do you guys have any recommendations on good starter tools to buy? I always used to borrow my dad's socket set for stuff before, but I live 3,000 miles away from home, and I'm completely tool-less. Costco has a nice set for about $100 with the Crescent brand name. It has sockets, wrenches, pliers, screwdrivers, etc. Get that and a nice jack with jack stands like everyone's favorite Harbor Freight aluminum floor jack (don't forget some tire chalks to be safe too). edit: Looks like this is the tool set: http://toolmonger.com/2009/12/08/costcos-80-crescent-toolkit/
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Dec 9, 2009 09:41
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Monkey Wrangler posted:Maybe not the right place to ask (also could've been asked but I missed it), but do you guys have any recommendations on good starter tools to buy?.... How about a standard drill? Any recommendations goons? Corded, no wireless, and something my mom could use, as that's who it's for primarily, but I know I'll end up using it for her quite a bit. Things like well designed / easy to use chuck, and plenty of torque and not absurdly huge. Doesn't have to be specific model, but been going through the thread gathering what I can before making my mind up. Thanks for your time.
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Dec 9, 2009 09:56
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Wanderer89 posted:How about a standard drill? The Ridgid tools I've used have all been pretty nice. Simply avoid black and decker, ryobi, and anything really cheap. It's really cheap for a reason.
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Dec 9, 2009 12:31
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mod sassinator posted:Costco has a nice set for about $100 with the Crescent brand name. It has sockets, wrenches, pliers, screwdrivers, etc. Get that and a nice jack with jack stands like everyone's favorite Harbor Freight aluminum floor jack (don't forget some tire chalks to be safe too). This is by far the best idea to get a core collection of tools fast. I have a similar set from about 6 years that looks, anyway, to have far worse build quality. I've just replaced tools as they fail. I also grab wrenches and sockets in common sizes/sizes I don't have at yardsales. I think the 3/8" ratchet, and ratcheting screwdriver have been the only things to really, truly break. (hitting the ratchet with a baby sledge probably didn't help)
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Dec 9, 2009 14:51
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Even cheaper, Harbor Freight's hand tools are pretty goddamn good for the money and the warranty is as good as Craftsman. Here's what I'd get: 3/8" drive ratchet, SAE set, metric set, a set of either metric or SAE deep drive sockets depending on which will get used in your car. A couple of extensions to get you at least 18". A u-joint is a good idea as well. A 1/2" torque wrench and a set of flip-sockets for wheel nuts. A 1/2" breaker bar, at least 24" long. A torque wrench is not a breaker bar. Traditional Combination wrenches, no gimmicks like the strange notched ones you can get at HF that allow you to do a strange ratcheting action with them. Just a normal combination wrench with a box and open end. A couple of adjustable Crescent-style wrenches. A pair of pump (Channel-lock) pliers. Needle-nose, slip joint, locking (vise-grip) pliers. Dead-blow hammer and/or 2-5 pound sledge. Wire stripper/crimpers. Try to get one that will make a dent in the connector instead of just smashing it into an oval. A simple Volt/Ohm meter. Something with a continuity beeper is handy. Test lights can sometimes be the wrong tool for the job. A 1/2" drill (you don't need to spend a whole lot on a corded drill to get something good), a decent drill index and an oil can if you'll be drilling metal. I prefer the titanium-nitride bits myself, opinions will vary. Learn how to drill steel the right way before you ruin your bits. Fancy extras: Electric impact gun. HF has one that seems pretty decent. Ratcheting box-end wrenches. 1/2 and 1/4 inch-drive socket sets for the added size range. An assortment of extensions, with wobble ends. Flare-nut wrenches. A decent floor jack AND 2-4 jack stands. You WILL NOT get a jack and skip the jack stands. This is not negotiable. Wheel chocks are recommended as well, but you can cobble something together with 2x4s if need be. A creeper. HF has nice plastic one that's pretty comfy. Honestly, there is no upper limit on tool buying, get whatever suits you. If you prefer, Cobalt tools from Lowe's are pretty good. I don't think the extra money gets you much more quality. HF is awesome for simple hand tools, stay away for power tools unless you really can't afford better, then get the warranty. Because of the lovely economy, Craigslist is really good right now. You can get decent tool sets for embarrassingly cheap. Avoid pawn shops, unless you manage to find that rare good deal. IMO, pawn shops want more for used stuff than it is new. The few times I've gotten a good deal it was because they had no idea what the had on their hands and I felt QUITE justified in screwing them over.
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Dec 9, 2009 16:10
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harbor freight is good for some things, but every time I do a major job I find a problem with one of the normal hand tools I've bought from them. I can only recommend them for specialty tools, like their balljoint seperator, inner tie rod end tool, and other things like that. They are also a good source for consumables, like cheap grinding and cutting wheels, $.99 safety glasses, and $6 100-packs of blue nitrile gloves. The more you use cheap tools, the more you understand why people are willing to pay Mac or SK money.
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Dec 9, 2009 16:26
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Strange, I've never had problems with hand tools from HF, although I've only bought the Pittsburgh stuff. There's just something really nice about their stuff - really heavy duty and solid. I have craftsman tools as well, and while they have lasted me forever, they just don't have the heft the Pittsburgh stuff does, and they're a lot more expensive. I'd add to Kynetx's list an extending wrench. I got this from HF and this is seriously my favorite tool right now.
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Dec 9, 2009 16:57
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Doctor Zero posted:I'd add to Kynetx's list an extending wrench. I got this from HF and this is seriously my favorite tool right now. God, I have a few of those with Crescent branding, one in 1/2" and one in 3/8". They are seriously awesome for those bolts that shouldn't require a breaker bar, but need more than a standard-length ratchet to loosen...Miata oilpan drain plug, I'm looking at you.
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Dec 9, 2009 17:04
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Doctor Zero posted:Strange, I've never had problems with hand tools from HF, although I've only bought the Pittsburgh stuff. There's just something really nice about their stuff - really heavy duty and solid. I have craftsman tools as well, and while they have lasted me forever, they just don't have the heft the Pittsburgh stuff does, and they're a lot more expensive. It's hit and miss. The plier set I got are kind of junk, I managed to bend the biggest crowbar they sell, and the set of impact sockets I got from them are failing after 2 jobs.
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Dec 9, 2009 17:07
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ab0z posted:harbor freight is good for some things, but every time I do a major job I find a problem with one of the normal hand tools I've bought from them. HF brass hammer. Would you believe I didn't buy it because it was cheap, but because no other stores, auto parts or Lowes-type, carried brass hammers? It's held up well. And they sell a nice set of picks, on the Pittsburgh label. On the other hand, stay away from the snap ring plier kit (Pittsburgh again); returning it today because it's a box of prebroken badly-cast awkwardly shaped dicks. Also, HF wheel chocks, the huge rubber ones for $5, they're worth their weight in safety.
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Dec 9, 2009 17:32
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mod sassinator posted:Get that and a nice jack with jack stands like everyone's favorite Harbor Freight aluminum floor jack (don't forget some tire chalks to be safe too). It seems like every car magazine I get has a coupon to get the harbor freight aluminum jack for $60, so if you do buy one go pick up a magazine and bring the coupon with you. drat it's only $80 without a coupon now, when I bought one the cheapest price was $100 I think.
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Dec 9, 2009 21:00
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I got a torin black jack at wal-mart years ago, I swear it was only 70$. http://www.amazon.com/Torin-Profile-Garage-Adjustable-Saddle/dp/B001J3SGJ4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1260397761&sr=1-9 It looks just like this, just silver instead of red. I love this jack.
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Dec 9, 2009 23:30
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Please join me in trying to find the cheapest new air/electric operated hydraulic bottle jack. $70.50 shipped is the price to beat from here http://www.amazon.com/Speedway-Heavy-Duty-Hydraulic-Bottle/dp/B000OLLYJG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1260411475&sr=1-7 Local Price best I can find is $68 + tax from harbor freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97704 The HF one is $80 - 15% coupon. IDK if they have any 20% coupons around lately.
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Dec 10, 2009 03:36
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What you're looking for is a 20% off coupon. Hey look!  They took three from me today in one session. Trim off the extra white page edge. If they give you poo poo tell them "I'm not cutting up my collection." and give them the retard eye. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Dec 10, 2009 |
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Dec 10, 2009 03:38
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Splizwarf posted:What you're looking for is a 20% off coupon. Just gonna chime in to say that that jack is awesome, especially at that price. I think I paid $80 for it, $60 is a steal. Also the TRIM AND MOLDING TOOL SET is amazing for car audio installation work so you might as well grab that if you ever plan to replace a radio. I think we used to pay $20 or $25 for a set from the MATCO guy, when I found out HF had them I bought like 5 sets.
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Dec 10, 2009 04:09
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The torque wrench for  is a great deal too, perfect for tightening wheel lug nuts.
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Dec 10, 2009 05:46
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Splizwarf posted:What you're looking for is a 20% off coupon. Thanks for this, slickdeals has a larger version if anyone has trouble printing this one clearly. http://slickdeals.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=276560&d=1256871142
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Dec 10, 2009 06:24
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I just got an angle grinder from HF like a month ago for 10 bucks thanks to an ad in my NRA magazine. Been using it daily since, ain't the best I've ever used but you can't beat it for 10 bucks. Though I miss my Makita.
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Dec 10, 2009 06:59
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RealKyleH posted:Thanks for this, slickdeals has a larger version if anyone has trouble printing this one clearly. Funny thing, actually, mine is that one, only hosted to Photobucket; slickdeals doesn't allow hotlinking and I didn't want to try to explain where to look on the page.
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Dec 10, 2009 13:36
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Last weekend I got a HF sales pitch about their new VIP club. Appparently no more mailed coupons, and you'll need a membership card to use coupons ($25 a year, and it sounds like they're going to hike prices across the board for non-club members).
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Dec 10, 2009 14:19
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Is there going to be a limit on coupons? Like, only the ones on your account or something? The trouble is, half the fun of shopping there is the hindbrain thrill of ridiculous discountage. If they take that away I might as well buy real tools. 
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Dec 10, 2009 14:22
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Splizwarf posted:Is there going to be a limit on coupons? Like, only the ones on your account or something? The trouble is, half the fun of shopping there is the hindbrain thrill of ridiculous discountage. If they take that away I might as well buy real tools. Yeah no poo poo. The only reason we put up with their spotty quality is because it's super cheap.
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Dec 10, 2009 15:29
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This is my temporary setup until I can figure out exactly how I want to mount a regulator with trap on the wall and then hardline everything in. I needed to get something done just to maintain tires in the mean time. Click here for the full 1536x2048 image. Small PVC is so cheap, I'm thinking of running all plastic lines. It's cheap enough that I could run two lines, one with lubrication and one without for tires and blow guns. 1/2 has a burst rating of like 1900psi, and a working psi of 350. I think my tank would explode before a line would burst. My question is... how hard is it to get a good seal between plastic and metal fittings? Do all the fittings share the same NPT sizes? I'm not sure I've ever seen a shop have pvc installed, usually I think everything I've seen is copper, but I can't afford to fork out all that to hard line my garage. I guess worst case, I could use all black pipe, but i'm not even sure they make that in 1/2". Also holy poo poo does this compressor put a ton of water in my air. Maybe it's just the weather here, but I was getting wet just finding and fixing leaks. ease fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Dec 10, 2009 |
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Dec 10, 2009 15:43
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ease posted:Small PVC is so cheap, I'm thinking of running all plastic lines. Don't. They may be rated for that kind of pressure, and may be ok with water at that pressure. But if a line breaks (not necessarily from the pressure itself, but from external damage to the line...bump into it with your car, accidentally hit it with a hammer, etc.), the difference between pressurized water and compressed air is huge. Hint: with water, it will split, spray water everywhere, and make a mess. With compressed air, it will explode, sending shrapnel everywhere. PVC air lines have killed people.
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Dec 10, 2009 16:00
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Holy poo poo you are right. Googling this is turning up a bunch of pages on how much of a bad idea that was. It's a bad idea because pvc is so hard it makes good shrapnel, correct? Maybe flexible tubing is the way I will go.
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Dec 10, 2009 16:05
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ease posted:Holy poo poo you are right. Googling this is turning up a bunch of pages on how much of a bad idea that was. It's a bad idea because pvc is so hard it makes good shrapnel, correct? I think it's the brittleness of PVC, yeah. There is supposedly a special type of PVC that is safe for air lines, but I think it's about the same price as metal. I have black iron pipe for my air lines (it was in place when I bought my house/garage). If it would fail, air would leak out, it would be loud, but it wouldn't be like a PVC explosion. Metal lines are your best bet, flexible tubing (if it's rated for compressed air) is probably ok too.
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Dec 10, 2009 16:10
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Mister, you bought the right house.
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Dec 10, 2009 16:12
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Christmas tool question edition: Is there an easy way of checking which bulb is burned out in a string of lights? I just went through them one by one, which sucked and it's more worth my time to just buy a new strand. At this point, though, there's like 8-10 mostly good strands in the house that just need that one bulb tracked down and replaced.
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Dec 11, 2009 00:35
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If you have a multi-meter it is easy. Set the meter to check for resistance. Remove a bulb from the middle of the string and check for resistance from the contact in the socket to one end of the string and then the other. One will have resistance and the other will be open circuit. The open circuit has the burned out bulb. Now do the same check by dividing the bad half in half again. Keep doing this until you have it narrowed down to three or four bulbs and then just start checking the individual bulbs.
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Dec 11, 2009 01:59
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JoshGuitar posted:I think it's the brittleness of PVC, yeah. The bonus with blackpipe is you can pretty easily look around and get deals on it.
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Dec 11, 2009 02:28
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Uthor posted:Christmas tool question edition:
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Dec 11, 2009 02:46
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Splizwarf posted:What you're looking for is a 20% off coupon. I have a couple floor jacks already, one of which is pretty nice, but I caved in and grabbed this one tonight. It's a pretty good price. Thanks for sharing the coupon!
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Dec 11, 2009 02:47
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helno posted:If you have a multi-meter it is easy. That's only marginally easier than swapping in known good bulbs and only because pulling out bulbs is hell on the fingers. Does this method even work for the kind of lights I have (A couple burned out bulbs and the string still lights. Five or more burned out bulbs on a half, and only that half the string stops lighting. Pull out a bulb and only half the strand goes dark.)? grover posted:Fortunately, christmas lights have progressed from component level maintenance in the 60s, to assembly-level maintenance today. If one bulb in a string burns out, you buy a new one (by which I mean a new string) for $2 and move on. Shoot, it's probably easier just to throw out all your old lights and buy new than to try to save them from year to year. Yeah, I think that's where we're at. Seems like a waste, though. We have some LED lights outside, which I hope will last forever. Couldn't find an LED set that had more than 50 bulbs when we went looking today.
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Dec 11, 2009 03:47
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CatBus posted:I have a couple floor jacks already, one of which is pretty nice, but I caved in and grabbed this one tonight. It's a pretty good price. Thanks for sharing the coupon! I have that jack, and it is pretty loving great; I got it from this thread with a previously-posted coupon  so I'm pleased I could pass it on.Fair warning though, if you use it on a pinch weld, the rubber part is thick enough that it will pinch in half and be worthless, pull it off first. Ask me how I know!
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Dec 11, 2009 04:30
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Just wanted to echo the no regular old PVC for compressed air lines. That poo poo is just plain dangerous and has no place in a shop air setup. Also I didn't buy any tools lately but I made a tool last night. A 3/8 hex broach I needed to make a hole in some steel. I took a 3/8 allen wrench, cut the bent end off, and heated the end red hot and dunked it in water. Then used an arbor press and made a bushing to guide it through the hole. Worked pretty good. I had to make 2 since I ground too much on the first one and it didn't cut the hole to size. I didn't get a pic of the tool but here's a pic of the hole.  Click here for the full 1200x1600 image. Chauncey fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Dec 11, 2009 |
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Dec 11, 2009 04:34
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ease posted:not as heavy as you'd think. probably somewhere around 175lbs maybe a bit more. just awkward to lift My 80G/5hp is over 300#. I used ramps and 2 people, and walked it to its final spot on the pallet.
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Dec 11, 2009 07:17
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mod sassinator posted:Costco has a nice set for about $100 with the Crescent brand name. It has sockets, wrenches, pliers, screwdrivers, etc. Get that and a nice jack with jack stands like everyone's favorite Harbor Freight aluminum floor jack (don't forget some tire chalks to be safe too). Cool, man. I'll definitely keep an eye out next time I make it to a Costco. It looks like the closest Harbor Freight to me is Fresno.
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Dec 11, 2009 07:34
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Uthor posted:Is there an easy way of checking which bulb is burned out in a string of lights? Already been answered, but are they really old lights? I don't think I've seen 2 wire light strands in about 10 years. They're all 3 wire strands I've seen now so they don't have that particular irritating one dead bulb problem.
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Dec 11, 2009 07:40
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Hypnolobster posted:Already been answered, but are they really old lights? I don't think I've seen 2 wire light strands in about 10 years. They're all 3 wire strands I've seen now so they don't have that particular irritating one dead bulb problem. 3 wire. There were at least six dead bulbs on the burnt out side and three or four more on the good half.
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Dec 11, 2009 07:47
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Uthor posted:Christmas tool question edition: Every year Lowe's sells a Christmas light tool that (among other things) has an inductive voltage checker. I've never tried it, but supposedly you plug the strand in and the tool will make a tone if you hold it anywhere on the string that's receiving power, and then you just swap out the bulb where it stops. They're usually sold out by this time of year, but they make standalone inductive voltage alarm thingies that should be in the tool department and work just as good if not better.
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Dec 11, 2009 20:33
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