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Yog-Sothoth posted:BANDWIDTH EXCEEDED Sorry dude, photo's not visible.
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# ? Dec 9, 2009 19:07 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 10:53 |
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Yog-Sothoth posted:crossposted from gbs, finished magnetizing my bell/furnace kit! Leaving the seer separate until he's painted Have you considered upgrading to Pro today?
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# ? Dec 9, 2009 19:16 |
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Get cheapass dreamhost domain, download this, never worry about hosting bullshit again.
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# ? Dec 9, 2009 19:34 |
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I'm repainting some minis I cleaned with Simple Green. Gonna put a coat of white primer on them and see how it goes painting them. But ugh, it looks like its going to take a bunch of coats of white to do them and I'm hoping a lot of detail doesn't get lost.
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# ? Dec 9, 2009 21:20 |
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Youre using spray primer, right? Spray white should cover it very easily. You might see a little color coming through, but dont sweat that. DONT spray a ton of primer on it, youll use details. Just prime it normally
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# ? Dec 9, 2009 21:39 |
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stupid bloody photobucket, reuploaded to waffles
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# ? Dec 9, 2009 23:09 |
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Cross posted from WH40K megathread because it's probably more suitable here. I have never played before and am about to take the plunge. I've started to get a couple of bits and pieces already. I've read the Chaos Black spray primer is a bit of a rip off and for Aussie Goons the Dulux Matte Black finish spray is a good alternative. So i went out and bought this: Click here for the full 640x480 image. Click here for the full 640x480 image. Is this what he would have been talking about/is it suitable? (sorry for sideways pics)
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# ? Dec 10, 2009 01:27 |
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PaintVagrant posted:Youre using spray primer, right? Spray white should cover it very easily. You might see a little color coming through, but dont sweat that. When I sprayed on the white primer, a good deal of the grey was showing through. Do I need to make it so that all of the grey is gone, or is it okay if little streaks are showing through? Actually, if you have a photo of one of your primed minis you could share, that would rock!
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# ? Dec 10, 2009 01:48 |
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I've finally gotten around to roughing out my X-mas project depicting a Secret Santa exchange gone awry. [NOTE: I am not trying to make the Grudge Pony a reindeer... they're intended to be fake antlers attached to its bridle] I got a lot of work ahead of me too: - Paint the little fuckers - Make a Santa hat for the troll - Make stockings for the Shrine of Mork - Snowman-up the tied up Slayer (I'm thinking stick "arms", frozen bluish skin,and a heathly does of snow) - A light dusting of snow - Put together a pile of Skaven shields and random weaponry to comprise the Goblins' gift - Maybe try to make some bows - Maybe put an LED Throwie in the Shrine to make it a fireplace I should have started sooner...
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# ? Dec 10, 2009 01:57 |
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Yog-Sothoth posted:Apart from the metal and a drybrush on the cloaks, all these dudes were done 100% with washes over white primer Update to Pro today! Or reload them somewhere else so I can see them.
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# ? Dec 10, 2009 02:39 |
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MinionOfCthulhu posted:Update to Pro today! aw bloody hell there's gonna be a big trail of broken links now I've reupped a few to waffleimages
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# ? Dec 10, 2009 02:50 |
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Iron Squid posted:When I sprayed on the white primer, a good deal of the grey was showing through. Do I need to make it so that all of the grey is gone, or is it okay if little streaks are showing through? grey like the plastic color? it shouldnt show through. Get as much of hte model white as you can, but dont clog up details. you can always touch up white primer with some white paint if you missed some spots, which is pretty inevitable
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# ? Dec 10, 2009 03:13 |
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PaintVagrant posted:grey like the plastic color? it shouldnt show through. Get as much of hte model white as you can, but dont clog up details. Grey like the base color showing through the white. I think the primer I'm using isn't very good. It was some Krylon brand and I know the black primer required a lot of coats to cover it. I'm going to try a different brand next time and see how it comes out. Anything you recommend, PV?
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# ? Dec 10, 2009 03:37 |
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Iron Squid posted:Grey like the base color showing through the white. Armory white, its like 6 bux through the warstore. Ive also heard army painter (8 bux) is good, but havent used it myself
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# ? Dec 10, 2009 03:41 |
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Did these for Devlan Mud as a commission:
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# ? Dec 10, 2009 04:12 |
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Your work gets better every time I see it, PV. I cannot express how much envy/hatred I have towards you. Oh, wait, I can: NecronSchmecron, mixing paints isn't that bad--use a couple of eye-droppers and get a mix ratio down. For example, making a highlight for Snot Green by adding Scorpion Green into it, you could drop two drops of Snot and one of Scorpion. If you like how it looks once you mix it, just write down the formula. Doing it in small drops means you don't waste a lot of paint, and it also makes it far easier to keep track of your ratios.
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# ? Dec 10, 2009 05:11 |
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I got this cool sniper guy but am having a little issue. He comes in three parts; base, legs, torso - should I paint the figure and base separately, or assemble and paint? There are details on the base that look like will be lost if I put the whole thing together first. Problem is I want him to look like he is a bit camouflaged with the base, so my initial thought is to assemble first. Advice, you guys?
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# ? Dec 10, 2009 16:46 |
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Dr. Phildo posted:I got this cool sniper guy but am having a little issue. He comes in three parts; base, legs, torso - should I paint the figure and base separately, or assemble and paint? There are details on the base that look like will be lost if I put the whole thing together first.
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# ? Dec 10, 2009 19:38 |
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Thanks Sole.Sushi for the advice. My old roommate used an eyedropper before to mix paint ratios but he said he didn't like it too much. I think he was mixing ink now that I think about it. I kind of shied away from the dropper approach because of it. I'll give it a shot though. I've also become accustomed to the goblin green highlight. It's not so "in your face" as the scorpion green highlight I did for my tactical squads. However, I have a metric fuckton of other Salamanders to paint and I'm always open for experimentation. Now I know why some people strip their old models and start over again. jeez. Also, keeping up with contributions, here's a guy who I am definitely considering painting next. He was a blast to convert. Believe it or not, he doesn't have as many pins as my Necron Scythe classes do. He has 4 and the scythes have 7. If I built the full harness he DEFINITELY would have more.
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# ? Dec 10, 2009 20:21 |
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One thing I would suggest for your sallies, is that whatever color highlight you do, if youre just going to do one layer, make it THIN. I dont mean the paint constency, I mean the thickness of the actual line highlight. I think GWs studio models use a very light highlight, but the lines are very very thin so works.
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# ? Dec 10, 2009 20:30 |
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I have definitely noticed when I make the lines accidentally thin, they look perfect (in my eye). However, as I've said, this is accidental. My hands tend to shake, and although I've stopped it a lot over the past few years, smaller details like highlights and some text tends to get a little messy. How thin (consistancy wise) should the highlight color be? I currently do thin my paint but should the highlight color be thinner?
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# ? Dec 10, 2009 20:37 |
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NecronSchmecron posted:I have definitely noticed when I make the lines accidentally thin, they look perfect (in my eye). However, as I've said, this is accidental. My hands tend to shake, and although I've stopped it a lot over the past few years, smaller details like highlights and some text tends to get a little messy. As thin as you can get it, assuming 2 things: 1 - it doesnt drip 2 - its not so transparent that it lets the base color show through Its going to take some practice, but the "whole milk" consistency is probably about right. youll know if its too thick, because it wont apply smoothly and will look ragged. Brushes have a lot to do with it too, I always suggest that even if you use relatively cheap brushes, get a really nice sable 000 for your final highlights. Winsor and Newton series 7 are the standard
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# ? Dec 10, 2009 20:40 |
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I soaked some minis overnight (again) in Simple Green to take off the awful white priming job I did on them. There's still some black primer left on in the cracks and crevices that my toothbrush can't reach. Should I worry about that, and if so what tool do you use to remove that hard-to-reach primer?
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# ? Dec 10, 2009 21:37 |
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Iron Squid posted:I soaked some minis overnight (again) in Simple Green to take off the awful white priming job I did on them. There's still some black primer left on in the cracks and crevices that my toothbrush can't reach. Should I worry about that, and if so what tool do you use to remove that hard-to-reach primer? It really won't matter once you redo the primer.
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# ? Dec 10, 2009 21:50 |
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I've seen this in action. Someone at my shop stripped a whole army using this and an Xacto knife to pick out the little bits that got stuck in the cracks. I forgot what solvent they used but it wasn't one I remember reading about before. It sprayed on but it wasn't oven cleaner. And it was for metal only. I don't see a point in getting this to strip one model but he said it was totally worth it to strip a whole army. If your hands won't stop shaking, lay off the caffeine. If you can manage to quit completely, you will notice a dramatic decrease in shakiness. Unless you have some other medical problem.
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# ? Dec 11, 2009 04:15 |
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Shaky hand syndrome can be fixed by slowing down on the coffee, but if you drink coffee on a daily basis (I.E. have a caffeine addiction), don't stop suddenly or you'll get the shakes something fierce. While you paint, steady your arms by resting your elbows on a table, and steady your wrists by keeping your hands close together. Having your wrists touch while you hold a model in one hand and paint with the other is nice, but really you just need to keep both your hands in your field of vision. Some kind of "I see it, I know it's there" psychological bullshit, but hey, it works for me. Lastly, before you begin to paint, and while you paint, take deep, slow breaths to calm your nerves and lessen your jitters. A little zen goes a long way. Again, I know it sounds like bullshit, but it does work. Some people just have naturally jittery hands, and if you find that it gets in the way of your painting, bite the bullet and keep at it. The more you do it, the more accustomed your body is to keeping your hands steady, and over time they will naturally set into that position. If you have some kind of medical condition that causes your hands to shake, twitch or jerk, repeat this mantra: Midgard Models ain't got poo poo on me. Trust me, you may end up with Picasso Marines, but it will still look a ton better than their crap.
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# ? Dec 11, 2009 05:15 |
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Cutting the caffeine helped me a ton. Plus I guess it's healthier.
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# ? Dec 11, 2009 05:35 |
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Some of the things mentioned I do already and definitely helps. I've tried putting my wrists together but it's just awkward to me. I just try to rest my elbows. I didn't think about it before, but I do try to keep my hands in my field of vision. I didn't think about it until you guys mentioned it, but it is probably the caffeine. I need it to get through my job. Don't think I can get rid of it completely but I can certainly cut down. Also, it is just SLIGHT shaking. It's not full blown Michael J. Fox. (ba-zing!)
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# ? Dec 11, 2009 06:06 |
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GoodBee posted:I've seen this in action. Someone at my shop stripped a whole army using this and an Xacto knife to pick out the little bits that got stuck in the cracks. I forgot what solvent they used but it wasn't one I remember reading about before. It sprayed on but it wasn't oven cleaner. And it was for metal only. I don't see a point in getting this to strip one model but he said it was totally worth it to strip a whole army. Looks like one of those cheap toothbrushes.
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# ? Dec 11, 2009 06:24 |
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What do you chaps think of doing this to represent Wild Riders ? (Picture not mine) I think it looks pretty cool, and I was trying to think of a way to make centaur-like WR. Also it has the bonus of being a lot cheaper than buying the Metals. The Wild Rider models are really awesome but SO expensive
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# ? Dec 11, 2009 14:02 |
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PV, post all your Trollbloods for me.
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# ? Dec 11, 2009 19:02 |
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MinionOfCthulhu posted:PV, post all your Trollbloods for me. http://s49.photobucket.com/albums/f281/BBivona/Miniature%20Painting/Trollbloods/
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# ? Dec 11, 2009 19:22 |
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Where can I find a good set of micro files?
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# ? Dec 11, 2009 19:57 |
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GF9 makes a set that I'm pretty happy with. The Warstore probably carries them, or your LGS if they stock GF9 stuff.
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# ? Dec 11, 2009 20:03 |
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Zarkov Cortez posted:Where can I find a good set of micro files? Good: hardware store or GF9 Adequate: pound store You can clean files with a toothbrush, if they're getting less effective.
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# ? Dec 11, 2009 20:55 |
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Zarkov Cortez posted:Where can I find a good set of micro files? Will these do? http://www.princessauto.com/tools/hand-tools/files/2921823-10-pc-5-1/2-needle-file-set?keyword=file
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# ? Dec 11, 2009 21:09 |
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Gah I need to get a god drat airbrush. Basecoating is taking forever and I still have 9 terminators left > Stupid Christmas and saving up for other stuff. Has anyone here used that cheap setup from harbor freight? Is it good enough for basecoating? 80 bucks for this compressor and this brush kit seems like a good price since I'm not planning on doing anything detailed with it.
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# ? Dec 11, 2009 21:20 |
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I ended up randomly looking at dremels on Amazon today after one of their eerily prescient recommendations emails linked to one. I'm pretty sure the closest thing to hobby stuff they know I have is Dawn of War... Anyway, I ended up looking at this Silverline hobby tool because it's a poo poo load cheaper than a dremel, and I figure I will want to be magnetising Tyranids in the near future. Has anyone used one? Also, as a PSA I should mention that the Warhammer thread is now in TG if you are looking for it. Yes, TG, not TGD, although presumably that will get fixed.
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# ? Dec 11, 2009 21:26 |
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Angryboot posted:Gah I need to get a god drat airbrush. Basecoating is taking forever and I still have 9 terminators left > Stupid Christmas and saving up for other stuff. That's exactly what I bought, and why I bought it. It's great for basecoating. Just be prepared to have to clean the brush often, as it gets clogged easily. I basecoated a Vindicator, Predator, LR Redeemer, ~20 infantry, a Dreadnaught, and 3 droppods in about 20 minutes. Took me longer to set up the brush and tear it back down/clean it, in fact. Picture whoring:
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# ? Dec 11, 2009 21:28 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 10:53 |
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EDIT: /\/\/\ thanks homie /\/\/\Shallow posted:I ended up randomly looking at dremels on Amazon today after one of their eerily prescient recommendations emails linked to one. I'm pretty sure the closest thing to hobby stuff they know I have is Dawn of War... I bought a 20 dollar black & decker rotary tool instead of getting a 60 dollar Dremel (TM) and that thing finally died after grinding steel sheets for like 4 years. Think that silverline will work just fine on soft metal and plastic minis.
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# ? Dec 11, 2009 21:34 |