|
Angryboot posted:Gah I need to get a god drat airbrush. Basecoating is taking forever and I still have 9 terminators left > Stupid Christmas and saving up for other stuff. There's a version of that compressor with a reserve tank for slightly more which I got, the one you linked will be OK but I think you might regret not coughing up a few more bucks for a tank if you end up doing more than basecoating. You can get a bit of a "pulse" on the spray if you run straight off the compressor. Plus it is bigger and therefore superior Similarly, the brush is single action. Fine for basecoats but again, if you think you'll be experimenting with other techniques, get a double action one - they can do everything one that will and more. Also, buy more than one brush when you get your kit, you'll almost certainly gently caress up one brush before you learn to clean them properly.
|
# ? Dec 11, 2009 21:35 |
|
|
# ? Apr 23, 2024 14:48 |
|
Should I get the 100 PSI package instead or should I stay with the 30-40 PSI models?
|
# ? Dec 11, 2009 21:43 |
|
Zarkov Cortez posted:Looks like one of those cheap toothbrushes. It is except it is bigger, about the size of a quarter in diameter maybe and has firmer bristles than a toothbrush but they're still soft enough not to score the metal like wire bristles.
|
# ? Dec 11, 2009 21:59 |
|
Angryboot posted:Should I get the 100 PSI package instead or should I stay with the 30-40 PSI models? The bigger ones are for heavy duty spraying of cars and stuff and will make one hell of a din, so definitely not. Stay with the small ones. Had a quick look at the HF site and I don't think they have the tank-included version I'm on about. I can't suggest another vendor as I'm in the UK, so obviously bought mine from a place over here. I'm possibly being overcautious, you ought to be able to buy a tank separately later if you want. Sounds like the silverline tool may be worth a look, cheers.
|
# ? Dec 11, 2009 22:09 |
|
So I reprimed my minis, and the primer is STILL coming on thicker than I want. I used short burst of paint to try and minimize excess paint, but... I've noticed the primer seems really, really thin when it comes out, almost like a wash. Is this normal?
|
# ? Dec 11, 2009 22:11 |
|
It looks like you're holding the can way too close to me.
|
# ? Dec 11, 2009 22:13 |
|
Iron Squid posted:So I reprimed my minis, and the primer is STILL coming on thicker than I want. I used short burst of paint to try and minimize excess paint, but...
|
# ? Dec 11, 2009 22:14 |
|
Stick your models down onto something with blu-tack/white-tack, it looks like you're holding them to prime. Lots of people use box lids, I prefer 1" cross-sectioned bits of wood because you can arrange the guys in a line that's nice and even for spraying over. The primer has pooled quite a bit, as well as the other things people have mentioned that might be from holding the spray on the mini. Don't point the can at the model and press, start spraying off the minis and then move the spray fairly quickly across the group of models.
|
# ? Dec 11, 2009 22:33 |
|
berzerkmonkey posted:What kind of paint are you using? Are you shaking the can for a couple of minutes before spraying? How close are you to the model? Numerous light coats are better than one heavy coat, which looks like what you're doing. Seems to me that you're too close spraying too much paint. You want to make it look like you're dusting the model, rather than slathering it. Also, judging by the fact that the paint has come off the chin and base, it looks like you didn't let the front dry completely before flipping it over and priming the back. I'm using Krylon indoor/outdoor primer. I'm definitely shaking the can a bit before spraying, and I'm spraying from about, oh, 18" away from the model. I think this mini is one that tipped over and got picked up, thus the missing paint on the chin. I held it by the base, which I don't usually do, just to get them done before I went to work. It seems that the primer is really thin, thinner than most paints. Is that something with this brand, or is most primer kinda thin?
|
# ? Dec 11, 2009 22:59 |
|
Don't use the krylon primer use the paint
|
# ? Dec 11, 2009 23:17 |
|
crime fighting hog posted:Don't use the krylon primer use the paint White Krylon paint?
|
# ? Dec 11, 2009 23:50 |
|
Yes. At least I'm sure it exists because I have a can of it somewhere around here. Primer never worked for me, came out clear and hosed things up no matter how much I shook.
|
# ? Dec 11, 2009 23:57 |
|
Zarkov Cortez posted:Where can I find a good set of micro files? People have mentioned the GF9 micro files, I got a set of the "diamond" ones and quite frankly I don't like them.
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 00:47 |
|
I have this file set and it works fine for me. I haven't used them a huge amount--maybe filing 20-30 metal models and a few plastic ones.
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 01:01 |
|
Looking to get back into the hobby and I have a bunch of WFB high elves to paint. I'm definitely a novice painter but I've got a good idea / read some good guides on getting started on spearmen, archers and most of the other things I have. Having some problems with white lion pelts though, I can't find anything that doesn't look like utter poo poo (it looks flat and any colour / colour mix just doesn't look right). They were primed white if that is relevant. Any basic advice that could help? Cheers
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 01:02 |
|
I'm going to check out princess auto sometime next week and see if they have any.
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 01:33 |
|
crime fighting hog posted:Yes. At least I'm sure it exists because I have a can of it somewhere around here. Primer never worked for me, came out clear and hosed things up no matter how much I shook. Confirmed on this. That poo poo is chalky.
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 01:57 |
|
Iron Squid posted:White Krylon paint? Now, there are specific miniature primers that have a much finer texture than the standard type of spray paint primer (such as Krylon) and you can use those on a miniature with no issues. In other words, if the can says Primer, make sure it is made specifically for miniatures. Otherwise, just use regular matte spray paint.
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 02:04 |
|
Zarkov Cortez posted:I'm going to check out princess auto sometime next week and see if they have any. They also have tiny drill bit sets and other useful gamer stuff, have a look around when you go.
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 02:09 |
|
Nice, I found out that Games of Berkeley sells W&N series 7 brushes of all sizes and the GW washes so I can do those washes like PaintVargant does I'm wondering - what are good models to practice painting on? Like, in order to help develop techniques without worry too much about getting mistakes you can't redo, are there certain kinds of minis that are good for just kind of getting paint onto to see how it turns out without shelling a lot of cash?
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 02:34 |
|
File sets are a rip because you never really need more than a triangle and a round. Maybe a half round. But any more than that is a waste of money.
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 03:23 |
|
I bought a set like this: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2719767&CAWELAID=124140752 It works well and the files store inside the handle (maybe not on this particular model, though).
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 03:26 |
|
aldantefax posted:Nice, I found out that Games of Berkeley sells W&N series 7 brushes of all sizes and the GW washes so I can do those washes like PaintVargant does
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 03:47 |
|
aldantefax posted:I'm wondering - what are good models to practice painting on? Like, in order to help develop techniques without worry too much about getting mistakes you can't redo, are there certain kinds of minis that are good for just kind of getting paint onto to see how it turns out without shelling a lot of cash? The completely basic GW space marines are probably the easiest models to just gently caress around with in the entire hobby. Large swaths of paintable space, easy to work out highlighting/shading, some metallic stuff, and all in simple-to-assemble plastic bits. $16 at the warstore for 5 of the things (most brick and mortar game shops have similar discounts on GW products), so they're pretty cheap for things you're just going to abuse/practice on. On the other hand, it's not going to get you much practice painting cloth, skin, leather, or eyes, which tends to be helpful on character models/everything from WHFB/Warmachine/Hordes/Malifaux/et al. You can pick up a box of 6 (Warmachine) Cygnar gunmages from the warstore for around $19 if you're focused on that. They're each just a single piece of solid metal (+plastic base). I'm sure people more knowledgable than me have better suggestions, but that's at least a jumping off point, I guess.
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 03:47 |
|
berzerkmonkey posted:Yeah. Remember, primer has a different consistency due to the fact that is is made specifically for providing a base for paint to adhere to. While this sounds like exactly what you need, on something this small, the texture and makeup of the paint will not provide the smooth base you need. I'll go the the game store and pay a few extra bucks for GW Primer, then. aldantefax posted:Nice, I found out that Games of Berkeley sells W&N series 7 brushes of all sizes and the GW washes so I can do those washes like PaintVargant does 'sup fellow Berkeley goon! Endgames in Downtown Oakland has a better supply of brushes than GoB has. Plus the guys who work there are really helpful when it comes to painting minis, and have none of the semi-aspergers that the GoB staff seems to have.
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 04:06 |
|
Devlan Mud posted:File sets are a rip because you never really need more than a triangle and a round. Maybe a half round. But any more than that is a waste of money. I use my flat lots
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 04:40 |
|
In the past I've used metal fingernail files that you get in the beauty section of the drug store. I've found they are finer than the GW ones. I haven't tried the other brands since they look exactly the same.Nique posted:Having some problems with white lion pelts though, I can't find anything that doesn't look like utter poo poo (it looks flat and any colour / colour mix just doesn't look right). They were primed white if that is relevant. Any basic advice that could help? White Lion pelts sound easy. Seams like you would start with a light yellowish-brown and dry brush up to an off-white or white. aldantefax posted:I'm wondering - what are good models to practice painting on? Like, in order to help develop techniques without worry too much about getting mistakes you can't redo, are there certain kinds of minis that are good for just kind of getting paint onto to see how it turns out without shelling a lot of cash? Check out some local game stores and see if they have any minis for cheap. I've got ton of minis at my store that are not for any of the big games that would be great at practicing painting on. I'm talking cheap like $1 a mini. PM me if you are interested in a deal.
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 04:52 |
|
You can ebay AOBR space marines or orks for dirty cheap...same with the fantasy equivalents.
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 06:46 |
|
Off topic in a sense, but has the Warhammer thread moved or something? I cannot seem to find it.
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 06:49 |
|
Sole.Sushi posted:Off topic in a sense, but has the Warhammer thread moved or something? I cannot seem to find it. its in TG
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 06:50 |
|
Wasted some time skimming the painting section of warseer and B&C, and it seems like everyone is doing black base rims all of a sudden, instead of graveyard earth or whatever. I might be biased but I think that's actually a pretty cool trend- the black really helps a base pop in my opinion.
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 07:23 |
|
Fyrbrand posted:Wasted some time skimming the painting section of warseer and B&C, and it seems like everyone is doing black base rims all of a sudden, instead of graveyard earth or whatever. I might be biased but I think that's actually a pretty cool trend- the black really helps a base pop in my opinion. Ive always been a big fan
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 07:42 |
|
I have always done black rims. Anything else looks odd to me, especially old school goblin green.
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 08:14 |
|
I just did a bunch of bases in graveyard earth, now it's not cool???
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 08:27 |
|
I remember years ago doing Black Bases when it was still standard to do Goblin Green. Now that it's 'in' I'm going to have to find something else
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 14:59 |
|
ineptmule posted:I remember years ago doing Black Bases when it was still standard to do Goblin Green. Tentacle Pink bases, clearly.
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 16:18 |
|
I'm gonna base all my Skaven with Ice Blue.
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 17:32 |
|
Aranan posted:Tentacle Pink bases, clearly. Considering how absurdly protective the 'hams at my local GW are over their OOP RARE TENTACLE PINK they'd probably murder me for my two pots if they had any inkling I had them.
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 18:46 |
|
From what I recall of skaven fluff, Im really surprised more people dont base them in a jungle style, since all they do is fight lizardmen in lustria or whatever.
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 18:50 |
|
|
# ? Apr 23, 2024 14:48 |
|
PaintVagrant posted:From what I recall of skaven fluff, Im really surprised more people dont base them in a jungle style, since all they do is fight lizardmen in lustria or whatever. There aren't that many Skaven in Lustria. Well, non-Pestilens Skaven, anyway. Lustria is where a clan of Skaven got lost and became Clan Pestilens. For the most part Skaven
|
# ? Dec 12, 2009 19:52 |