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I've just moved house and have no drat internets, but that means I've been able to paint some at least. My primer and screaming bell are both still boxed (I'll probably move them over tonight) but in the meantime I've been working on some gutter runners, 4 completed and another 4 half done, hopefully I'll get a chance to finish them off and base them tonight, I'll bring some photos on a usb to upload at work tomorrow. Then back to work on my bell  . My wife works at an art supply shop and I think I'm getting some series 7s for christmas so I'll be keeping busy on my skaven over the holidays, trying to resist buying more stuff at the moment, painting up all my old dudes first. Think I'm gonna have to cave and get (mostly) new clanrats though, i guess half of the 100 or so old ones i've got can be slaves. Much as I like the new stormvermin i'll probably end up sticking with my current metals at least until everything else is bought and painted, and I need to start working on a model for my hellpit abomination..
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Dec 17, 2009 05:16
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I wanted to post this into the General Warhams thread, but all I see there are photos of dogs and cocks, so I thought I'd better not. Finally finished these suckers. I swear I've wasted more of my time making these things than I have any other model.  Click here for the full 800x644 image.  Click here for the full 640x1632 image.  Click here for the full 800x1442 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. Size comparison with some PP, Infinity and GW stuff.  Click here for the full 800x611 image. Head height 5.5cm, fits on a 40mm base. Comes in 9 parts +2/1 guns. Hopefully will cost GBP10.00 or thereabouts. Works with most GW-sized weaponry. Comments welcomed. Edit: I had so many problems coming up with a nice urban base for the painted one.  If anyone knows of any good tutorials for them I would be grateful for links.Edit 2: Got rid of the stupid smiley. Boy do I hate --> Edit 3: If anyone has any good weathering tips for this type of model, do share them. I used some pastels for the gun barrels, feet and base, but the rest of the model looks a little too pristine for me. Trouble is I'm not sure how well the regular paint-chip weathering will work with rounded surfaces. Edit 4: Gah, forgot to add a webpage address (for future updates, nothing there now about the battlesuit) http://z4miniatures.blogspot.com Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Dec 17, 2009 |
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Dec 17, 2009 05:38
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I sort of want one, but I bet its gonna be like 30$ to get it to the US.
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Dec 17, 2009 05:47
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!amicable posted:I sort of want one, but I bet its gonna be like 30$ to get it to the US. $19.20 shipped if the cost is GBP10.00. My shipping rates are pretty low, and if the USD holds at it's current rate for the next few months, it shouldn't go as high as $30. I know $19.20 isn't really that great either, but v  v.
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Dec 17, 2009 05:54
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Zandris, try light sponge-ed on weathering at the edges, and add some scratches/ paint damage on the rounded areas as well. Standard "weathering + bottom edge highlight" type stuff. I usually use scorched brown, but it depends on the color youre working on.
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Dec 17, 2009 05:55
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!amicable posted:Awesome work dude. MinionOfCthulhu posted:Albino skinks look boring. Do these. Do them all like this. Thanks!  Savage, dirt worshiping, hoople heads it is!
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Dec 17, 2009 06:10
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argh no more lizardmen so tempted ughhhh
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Dec 17, 2009 06:13
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NecronSchmecron posted:LewdMonocle posted:Then I did this guy: These dudes loving own.
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Dec 17, 2009 06:16
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Crossposting from the Warhammer thread.     I used to play necrons, and I got really sick of the same pose over and over. They aren't done 100%, still need epoxy to fill in the joints, but they will likely never, ever get done.
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Dec 17, 2009 07:25
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How does infinity play as a game? The miniatures look spectacular.
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Dec 17, 2009 07:36
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LewdMonocle posted:Then I did this guy: Green lizards with tribal tatoos and a Baron Samedi feel to them are drat cool and I've never seen anything like it before.
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Dec 17, 2009 08:12
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The Dark Project posted:How does infinity play as a game? The miniatures look spectacular. Small scale skirmish, VERY lethal shooting, much more realistic "firefight" type of game. Cool sci fi pew pew type stuff, mechs, optic camo, etc. Its sort of like playing a miniature battle version of ghost in the shell.
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Dec 17, 2009 08:18
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Goddammit... I really don't want to get into another game. Especially if none of my friends play. But the Ariadna look awesome...
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Dec 17, 2009 08:22
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The Dark Project posted:Goddammit... I really don't want to get into another game. Especially if none of my friends play. I have a local community who plays it, and its pretty much inevitable that Ill buy some at some point 
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Dec 17, 2009 08:24
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PaintVagrant posted:Small scale skirmish, VERY lethal shooting, much more realistic "firefight" type of game. Cool sci fi pew pew type stuff, mechs, optic camo, etc. Did they get the hax in as well? I remember reading something in one version of the rules where the hackers could do funky stuff like cut power to the enemy's battle armor, or mess with their dropships so their "deepstrike" would go way, way off target. Edit: Thanks for the advice on weathering. Does that technique work only for mud/dust, or does it work for paint chips as well? Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 08:47 on Dec 17, 2009 |
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Dec 17, 2009 08:44
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The Infinity rules are available for download.
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Dec 17, 2009 08:55
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Z the IVth posted:Did they get the hax in as well? I remember reading something in one version of the rules where the hackers could do funky stuff like cut power to the enemy's battle armor, or mess with their dropships so their "deepstrike" would go way, way off target. Its pretty much only for worn paint. Mud/dust are more about feathering layers of a dull color over the top of the main color. Example of quick sponge weathering:  
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Dec 17, 2009 09:01
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Fix posted:The Infinity rules are available for download. Oh you evil, evil man.
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Dec 17, 2009 09:03
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The Dark Project posted:Oh you evil, evil man. Here is a flash-based army builder. You can get a starter kit, which is apparently about 120 points worth of stuff (6 figures), for about $40 from TheWarstore. Games range from 150 points (small) to 600 points. I'm totally down to buy some Haqqislam. You could slide a unit of those right into a guard army no problem.
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Dec 17, 2009 09:15
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When greenstuff dries, should it still be somewhat elastic or should it be rock hard? Because I rolled som scrap bits into a ball, flatened it to a brick, and after more than 12 hours I can still bend it. It eventually unbends to its original shape, but it's supposed to become super hard right?
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Dec 17, 2009 09:23
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Depends on your mix of yellow to green stuff. More yellow means slower dry, if I remember right, maybe even just ends up rubbery.
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Dec 17, 2009 09:29
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Z the IVth posted:Size comparison with some PP, Infinity and GW stuff. What was your process for the urban base you ended up with? Love the shattered pavement and the effect as a whole.
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Dec 17, 2009 09:37
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Fix posted:Here is a flash-based army builder. Son of a bitch that is awesome
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Dec 17, 2009 09:42
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Yeah, too bad the unit purchase rules are so goddamn obtuse. They could really use someone to reorganize their book.
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Dec 17, 2009 09:47
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Fix posted:Yeah, too bad the unit purchase rules are so goddamn obtuse. They could really use someone to reorganize their book. Do you have the 2nd ed book? I remember the first ed book needing a serious editor, but it was still playable 
PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 09:51 on Dec 17, 2009 |
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Dec 17, 2009 09:49
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Fix posted:Depends on your mix of yellow to green stuff. More yellow means slower dry, if I remember right, maybe even just ends up rubbery. It's also like 4 years old, does kneadite have an "expiration date" of sorts?
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Dec 17, 2009 09:52
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It's at that link I posted. But I'm going to stop derailing your thread.
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Dec 17, 2009 09:53
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Fix posted:It's at that link I posted. Start and infinity thread and we can all post in it and wish we had people to play against
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Dec 17, 2009 09:54
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Dr. Lenin posted:When greenstuff dries, should it still be somewhat elastic or should it be rock hard? Because I rolled som scrap bits into a ball, flatened it to a brick, and after more than 12 hours I can still bend it. It eventually unbends to its original shape, but it's supposed to become super hard right? There will always be some elasticity to green stuff, even after a full cure. It's not going to be a rock-hard product no matter what you do to it. As far as I know, only epoxies that have actual metal in them (like JB Weld) cure to anything of significant hardness. If you want something that will air-dry into a solid, non-flexible brick, good ol' play-dough will do that. It shrinks considerably, however. There are more expensive alternatives with non-bake clay polymer products, many of which shrink very little. EDIT: as far as I am aware, epoxies have no true shelf-life limitation. So long as the components are separate, they should last indefinitely. Sole.Sushi fucked around with this message at 10:01 on Dec 17, 2009 |
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Dec 17, 2009 09:57
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lawl. Maybe after I've gotten into it a bit. Infinity is still pretty much a wishlist item for me. I've had a set of Viral snipers hovering in my shopping cart for Eldar Pathfinders for a while now. There's actually four or five guys here who have starter sets. I'll have to see if I can arrange a training game or something.
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Dec 17, 2009 09:59
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Sole.Sushi posted:There will always be some elasticity to green stuff, even after a full cure. It's not going to be a rock-hard product no matter what you do to it. As far as I know, only epoxies that have actual metal in them (like JB Weld) cure to anything of significant hardness. Thanks for the info, and same to you Fix. Just remembered I picked up some "Mix -n- Fix" epoxy putty from a hardware store a few weeks ago, I got 3 4oz tubes for $5. Hardens in 20 min, and is great for a base for larger hand sculpted minis / conversions, like my slug spawn (nicknamed Sluggo) that I made awhile back:  Not the best sculpt, but its a start and its just a lousy spawn anyways. I might hand build a Greater Demon with this stuff, I'm reserving the actual greenstuff for smaller minis as the Mix-n-Fix tends to stick to my hands all the time when trying to make smaller parts. Edit: I'm addicted to greenstuff now, making models extra nurgly is fun and easy. Fake James fucked around with this message at 12:10 on Dec 17, 2009 |
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Dec 17, 2009 10:12
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Things I should not do: buy minis for every wargames ruleset that is interesting or good. Anybody want to buy my War of the Rings and Flames of War armies?
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Dec 17, 2009 10:17
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How do epoxy putties like greenstuff react to polystyrene? Badly? EDIT: And what are the rough dimensions of a drop pod? EDIT 2: I meant expanded polystyrene, like packing materials. Thinking about it, I'm sure it'll be okay, but I had a vague worry that it would melt it at least slightly. Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 12:12 on Dec 17, 2009 |
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Dec 17, 2009 12:05
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I think the plastic used in Warhammer models is polystyrene.
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Dec 17, 2009 12:07
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PaintVagrant posted:nws that poo poo, man
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Dec 17, 2009 12:39
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Kestral posted:What was your process for the urban base you ended up with? Love the shattered pavement and the effect as a whole. I used some fimo, flattened it into a 1.5mm thick sheet and baked it. Then I broke it apart into pieces, glued them onto the base, and started attacking it with my knife. The small bits of rubble are made of sand mixed with PVA glue and applied lightly to the base. Edit: You can probably substitute Fimo with spackle/wall filler, Milliput, Magic Sculpt or any other hard epoxy putty (don't use Greenstuff, it won't chip nicely), but I think Fimo is probably the best as it chips and flakes quite easily.
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Dec 17, 2009 15:04
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Fyrbrand posted:
I'd do the trims in silver. I think it'll look better than black considering there are rivets in it.
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Dec 17, 2009 15:14
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What's the difference between the silvery metallic paints, anyway? I look at them in the jars sometimes but I don't really see much difference in colour.
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Dec 17, 2009 15:33
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:What's the difference between the silvery metallic paints, anyway? I look at them in the jars sometimes but I don't really see much difference in colour. If you mean the difference between boltgun/chainmail/mithril it's basically just that the particular shades of silver are different on the model, I believe because they have more black paint pre-mixed in. Boltgun is noticeably darker than chainmail which is darker than mithril.
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Dec 17, 2009 16:21
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