|
Is it normal to have to put a couple of coats of Sunburst Yellow on top of white primer?
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2009 20:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 15:09 |
|
|
Yeah, I usually apply it in 2 thin coats. Yellow paint is very transparent
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2009 20:45
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:Yeah, I usually apply it in 2 thin coats. Yellow paint is very transparent I had a little drop of Karnifax Green land on the place I'm doing the yellow. Ugh, its almost impossible to paint over. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2009 20:46
|
|
|
Iron Squid posted:I had a little drop of Karnifax Green land on the place I'm doing the yellow. Ugh, its almost impossible to paint over. put spacewolf grey or iylladen darksun over the spot. then yellow over that.
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2009 20:58
|
|
|
FirstCongoWar posted:If you mean the difference between boltgun/chainmail/mithril it's basically just that the particular shades of silver are different on the model, I believe because they have more black paint pre-mixed in. Boltgun is noticeably darker than chainmail which is darker than mithril. Sweet, that helps. Now I guess I should buy some Chainmail. And am I using Tin Bitz wrong by painting it straight onto black? Even after shaking for a while, it's rather dark and transparent-looking on the model; should I be putting it over a silver metallic to fill it in, or is that how it's supposed to be?
|
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2009 21:51
|
|
|
Aranan posted:black man-o-wars from pages 13 and 14 I found where those pictures came from! http://www.jrn-works.dk/gallery/mini.php?range=Warmachine&model=Manowar It seems that the highlights themselves are done with both blues and greys, not just straight up greys and whites. I guess they're also glazed with reds and purples for added richness to the blacks and the highlights, but I have no idea about any of that stuff. Thanks once again for the minis, I will let you know when I receive them! edit: speak of the devil they arrived just today like an hour after I posted aldantefax fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Dec 17, 2009 |
|
#
?
Dec 17, 2009 22:46
|
|
|
aldantefax posted:I found where those pictures came from! Nice find! He says that the black is "glazed with thinned down red and purple inks" but I'm not really sure how that works. Wouldn't glazing black just result in wasting paint?
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 03:25
|
|
|
I dunno if he primes black. I would ASSUME he does, but if he primed another color, but that's the only way that'd make sense to glaze.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 03:28
|
|
|
Aetilus posted:put spacewolf grey or iylladen darksun over the spot. then yellow over that. Iyaden Darksun is a godsend when it comes to painting yellow. I still tend to use two coats of Golden Yellow over the Iyaden while working on my Boyz, but it works really well.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 03:47
|
|
|
To Dr. Lenin: For adding detail and fine work with a two-part epoxy, don't use one that hardens in 20 minutes. It will start to harden shortly after being mixed, which makes the adding of detail all the much harder, and thus takes more time, which means you might not get everything that you want out of it. Gale Force 9 makes green stuff in large tubes for a reasonable price if I'm not mistaken--I bought mine at least 5 years ago, and I have yet to go through half of them. Using the epoxy as you did, however, seems to work just fine, and would work for building a base to use green stuff to add detail later, and since it's cheap it's good to use if you want to try something new, creative and generally silly without having to worry about loss of product. To Gravitas Shortfall: Most two-part epoxies will not react with any kind of plastic, no matter what shape or form its in. In fact, it's non-reactive with most materials, so feel free to make a foam core for your Hellpit Abomination (or what-have-you) and give it a coat of green stuff for detail.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 04:08
|
|
|
The GF9 stuff is just rebadged Kneadatite. One of those big tubes'll run you $13 and last you essentially forever.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 05:22
|
|
|
Paint Vagrant, how'd you do those Imperial Fist Marines I saw a while back? I may want to start them.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 05:46
|
|
|
white primer sunburst sepia devlan in some recesses, sort of blend it with the side of a brush highlight sunburst+white weather
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 05:58
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:white primer Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 06:47
|
|
|
  I am really out of practice with my marines. Forcing myself to at least try doing basic edge highlights. Sloppy, but hopefully I'll get better.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 07:01
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:As much as I like the big ship, the 2 smaller classes look too alike and a lot of others have pointed out how the miniature range is quite samey. Yes I know that this was the case with BFG too, but the it was hidden better by their nature of being giant space cathedrals. The clean nature of that range makes it really stick out. I know some of it is done for ease of identification for similar groups of ships but for some reason the sizing down of an existing ship just irks me. (Those Grey Knights look good for just a coat of primer) Edit - Those medium ships look they are designed to fit additional broadside weapons, is this the case or not?
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 07:07
|
|
|
Nah, the terran cruisers are as-is. The GKS have a shade on top of the primer 
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 07:16
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:Nah, the terran cruisers are as-is. Pity, I think they should have more guns; everything needs more guns. PaintVagrant posted:The GKS have a shade on top of the primer Amazing 
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 07:21
|
|
|
Just finished what's hopefully my last carpet archers. Didn't have any more archers to convert, so I resorted to sculpting quite a bit of these myself. Did these just so I can field two units if I ever want to (but who am I kidding, I never play, I just paint), or just one huge unit. Pictures! Plastics and green stuff:  Click here for the full 802x538 image. All done:  aaaaand a groupshot of Mahmoud the Serpent's Flying Circus:  Click here for the full 1180x672 image. Yeah, a few bases to do still... Just two more units to finish; then I'll never have to paint a model for this army again.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 08:23
|
|
|
crosspost of my Bret progress from the other thread. sorry for the glare The whole set  My general up close  Errant on the left with general, KotR on the right with bsb  just finished these M@A  Archers and their lady (and her snail)  Peasant sampler, yeomen in back  one more group shot next: peg knights Aetilus fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Dec 18, 2009 |
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 09:09
|
|
|
Sole.Sushi posted:In fact, it's non-reactive with most materials, so feel free to make a foam core for your Hellpit Abomination Mycetic Spore Pod.  (actually just brainstorming ideas for it at the moment, found that I can get hollow polystyrene eggs). R.S. Gumby posted:
These are awesome, you're awesome.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 10:48
|
|
|
Aetilus posted:These are awesome but how come they are so glossy?
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 11:09
|
|
|
Aetilus posted:crosspost of my Bret progress from the other thread. sorry for the glare They look like they're coated in a thin layer of semen. Other than that they look fantastic.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 11:13
|
|
|
Sole.Sushi posted:To Dr. Lenin: Oh I know, I'm using it for creating a base to put detail over, kinda making an armature frame with it first. Greenstuffed details will go over that. Thanks for the recommendation of GF9, I was actually about to post asking where I can find more kneadite for cheap! On a side note, any advice on getting greenstuff to stick well to legs / sides of space marines? I've been using my knife and a pen to shape it, but it always peels off the plastic first with very little effort. Ends up taking a long time to get anything to stick. Fake James fucked around with this message at 12:25 on Dec 18, 2009 |
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 12:23
|
|
|
R.S. Gumby posted:Just finished what's hopefully my last carpet archers. Didn't have any more archers to convert, so I resorted to sculpting quite a bit of these myself. Did these just so I can field two units if I ever want to (but who am I kidding, I never play, I just paint), or just one huge unit. I just want to say that your army is beautiful and your sculpting/painting jobs really do the trick. I scrolled down from the painted minis to the greenstuff expecting you to have added a beard or a sash, but you did the whole drat thing. Wow.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 13:47
|
|
|
Hey everybody. My Salamanders have troops. Let's get them some space ships. I still need to build another strike cruiser. It took me forever to pin those frigates to the bases. The Firestorm classes were more of a pain in the rear end to assemble than the Battlebarge was. The second piece to the frigate was too thin on the edges to pin so that didn't help.  Too many frigates?  This is easily becoming my favorite flying castle. Painting coming soon.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 16:19
|
|
|
Fyrbrand posted:Come to south Florida and get people here to play. I need to go back down south eventually, good portion of my family lives there. But yeah I'm currently on vacation, and yes !amicable, I finnally found my camera. Yes, I've also placed in every tournament in the past 4 months. A solid 3rd of my army has come from tournament winnings. I've also resolved myself to paint the rest of the army within the next few months.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 17:26
|
|
|
Arkibus posted:These are awesome but how come they are so glossy? matte varnish looks like that when you take quick photos with the flash accidentally on and instead of a light box you put two desk lamps 10 inches above the models with no white/reflective surfaces to soften the glare.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 18:43
|
|
|
Ive started painting again, and Ive got a bit of a question. I've been painting over regal blue with enchanted as a highlight. I'm using the enchanted in really really thin coats attempting to get gradual highlights, but it looks pretty chalky. Is this just some quirk of the paint I have, or am I missing something? Cross posted from the warhamm thread
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 19:14
|
|
|
Dr. Lenin posted:On a side note, any advice on getting greenstuff to stick well to legs / sides of space marines? I've been using my knife and a pen to shape it, but it always peels off the plastic first with very little effort. Ends up taking a long time to get anything to stick. If you're working with green stuff, you'll have the bright yellow-green stuff, and the blue stuff that makes the wonderful dark green stuff we all know and love. If you want to make your green stuff more tacky so it will stick to a surface, add more of the yellow-green (60/40 mix works fine) and it will be considerably more adhesive. However, by doing this the final hardness of the green stuff can turn out to be far more flexible than you'll want. The other option is to take a hobby knife and score up the areas that you will be putting green stuff over, then take a file and further rough up the area. This will provide more surface area (tooth) for the green stuff to take to, which should prevent it from peeling. Additionally, I've seen people talk about using vaseline to coat their tools to prevent sticking. Considering out tenacious that vaseline is, I avoid it completely and simply use water. Once you get your ball of putty mixed up, dip it into a cup of clean water to keep it from sticking to your fingers and tools, apply it to your surface, then dip your sculpting tool in water before bringing it to the putty. Keep in mind, it doesn't need to be drenched, just wet enough to prevent adhesion. The only other thing I can think of is that your green stuff is getting too stiff to work with. I've been finding out while working on my latest project that green stuff will sometimes just not want to stick to anything. I just pitch that piece, or shape it into a rock to use on a base or something. EDIT: The project that I spoke of might be relevant to your interests. I can post some photos and a step-by-step if you'd like, as it involves adding green stuff to marines. Sole.Sushi fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Dec 18, 2009 |
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 19:19
|
|
|
Morning posted:Ive started painting again, and Ive got a bit of a question. I've been painting over regal blue with enchanted as a highlight. I'm using the enchanted in really really thin coats attempting to get gradual highlights, but it looks pretty chalky. Is this just some quirk of the paint I have, or am I missing something? Sometimes paint can be thinned too much, could that be the case? then the pigment seperates and you get sort of blotchiness. enchanted is a bitch mofo of a color to work with.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 19:20
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:
Maybe for you, sucka  j/k I just cheat with mine so it doesn't count.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 19:30
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:enchanted is a bitch mofo of a color to work with. Start with Necron Abyss.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 19:41
|
|
|
Broken Loose posted:Start with Necron Abyss. I did. Its necron abyss -> Royal Blue ->wash in crevasses -> Enchanted Blue highlights
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 20:16
|
|
|
Morning posted:I did. Its necron abyss -> Royal Blue ->wash in crevasses -> Enchanted Blue highlights Maybe do another light wash to blend the highlights in more?
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 21:02
|
|
|
Gravitas Shortfall posted:Maybe do another light wash to blend the highlights in more? You might have to make the final highlight a mix of enchanted and the base color, it sounds like it might be too big a jump
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 21:14
|
|
|
Broken Loose posted:Start with Necron Abyss. Necron Abyss: ruthless... Also my next project is this guy:  I'm gonna do the robes a bit darker than that but otherwise it's mostly the same. Any tips on making the book's pages look weathered to hell? I actually care how he looks cause he's for Dark Heresy. Cept I need to put a flamer on him somewhere.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 21:16
|
|
|
MWH + sepia!
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 21:37
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:MWH + sepia! JESUS CHRIST PV is it really the answer to everything?
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 21:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 15:09 |
|
|
Sole.Sushi posted:The project that I spoke of might be relevant to your interests. I can post some photos and a step-by-step if you'd like, as it involves adding green stuff to marines. This would be great. Thanks for all the advice so far, my method isn't so good when the small amount of work I've done has taken about 30 minutes per torso.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2009 21:51
|
|