|
Blade_of_tyshalle posted:Please tell me there are Basestar-looking ships in this range. http://www.spartangames.co.uk/images/firestorm/Directorate_Cut_Out_Fleet.jpg This is the closest they've come so far, I think the models come out in March.
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2009 18:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 02:58 |
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:I use GW foundations, washes, metallics, and a few colors, like enchanted blue, scorched brown, elf flesh, sunburst yellow and blood red. Hi PV, could you tell me what you use the matt medium for, I have only used it for the pigment sets from vallejo at this stage, what is it for?
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2009 19:29
|
|
|
Morning posted:http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=32050 If you want really thin or transparent layers of paint you'll want to use some glazing medium to hold it together. It'll cost $8-$11 USD at a paint or craft store. It's awesome stuff. It lets you get very thin or transparent colors without needing to worry about water marks or the paint breaking apart. Les shows how he uses it in one of his painting tutorials. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xm2MY_w2Dsg
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2009 19:40
|
|
|
Medium can do glazes like mentioned, as well as as breaking the surface tension of the paint a little bit, so if you put a bit of it in washes it flows into cracks and stuff better
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2009 19:52
|
|
|
great, thanks guys, i'll give it a whirl.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2009 20:15
|
|
|
Tanith posted:http://www.spartangames.co.uk/images/firestorm/Directorate_Cut_Out_Fleet.jpg Those look so awesome
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2009 23:51
|
|
|
Captain Invictus posted:Those look so awesome They remind me a lot of one of the factions from Gratuitous Space Battles.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 02:37
|
|
|
PV, how did you do your bone? I tried doing what I thought you did, but it doesnt seem to work out the way I want it to 
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 04:16
|
|
|
Yog-Sothoth posted:Magentizing the Screaming Bell/Plague Furnace Dude this kicks all kinds of rear end
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 04:26
|
|
|
Quick first attempt at a nid scheme. I'm quite pleased but I definately need to make the green more transparent if I get around to doing a proper model (forgot I had glaze medium in my forest of paints).
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 04:27
|
|
|
Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Quick first attempt at a nid scheme. I'm quite pleased but I definately need to make the green more transparent if I get around to doing a proper model (forgot I had glaze medium in my forest of paints). Holy gently caress that's good. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 05:12
|
|
|
Agreed.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 05:44
|
|
|
Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Quick first attempt at a nid scheme. I'm quite pleased but I definately need to make the green more transparent if I get around to doing a proper model (forgot I had glaze medium in my forest of paints). OK Dude that is easily the most dynamic and realistic nid color scheme of all time. Please make your 5th edition codex an elite force so that you don't burn out painting that. Seriously bravo.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 07:02
|
|
|
 
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 07:36
|
|
|
Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Quick first attempt at a nid scheme. I'm quite pleased but I definately need to make the green more transparent if I get around to doing a proper model (forgot I had glaze medium in my forest of paints). Holy poo poo man, I've been using a very similar color scheme but that is WAY better than my stuff.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 10:57
|
|
|
I recently attempted (and failed) at painting my first rhino. My first mistake: Allowing the super glue lines to show on the outer-most parts of the rhino. I guess I got glue-happy just trying to piece the bitch together. From then on it was just downhill
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 11:38
|
|
|
Anphrax posted:Allowing the super glue lines to show on the outer-most parts of the rhino. Why were you using Super Glue and not plastic cement?
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 14:33
|
|
|
Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Quick first attempt at a nid scheme. I'm quite pleased but I definately need to make the green more transparent if I get around to doing a proper model (forgot I had glaze medium in my forest of paints). No lie, that's probably the best paint scheme for Tyranids that I've seen. It looks less like a painted model and more like something you'd see on a full-page spread in National Geographic. Probably the "WE'RE hosed" issue.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 16:05
|
|
|
That little touch of purple/cool color under the warm colors really makes that nid pop. Is it a scheme thats going to be repeatable on the 5,422 gaunts you have to paint?
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 16:24
|
|
|
Thanks for the positive feedback everyone. I have a lot of trouble motivating myself to get on with painting and positive feedback is the best encouragement. PV: yeah I think so. I'd airbrush the basecoat, then shading is devlan mud all over followed by an overbrush (is that the right term ? It's drybrushing with a damp brush and not as much paint wiped off), and only then do I actually have to start being neat as I apply the black/green mix, purples and green. The carapace is pretty quick as well being quickly applied straight lines.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 16:58
|
|
|
Awesome. Get to painting. Also, pick a basing scheme that compliments the colors in the nid
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 17:09
|
|
|
I meant to ask for suggestions on basing actually, I don't think my usual earth rim and bestial-up-to-bone sand will really work. Edit: Maybe something closer to my CSM bases, scorched rims with industrial/urban grey bases. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Dec 23, 2009 |
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 17:11
|
|
|
I'm a big fan of overbrushing with scorched brown, then drybrushing up through 2-3 shades of grey. Does the job and never seems too overpowering.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 19:16
|
|
|
Id probably stay away from warm colors on the bases, so a blueish grayish urban wreckage would look cool
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 20:07
|
|
|
Gravitas Shortfall posted:Why were you using Super Glue and not plastic cement? I don't use any plastic-glue/cement/etc. I find that super glue works better for me. I've heard a lot of people complain that when they set down pieces that have been glued with super glue they can fall apart, but that has never been the case for me.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 21:09
|
|
|
cuz plastic cement sux super glue for life 
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 21:12
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:cuz plastic cement sux super glue for life seriously. Pro cement retards: "welp I just bough this expensive model, I guess I will now risk melting off the details and eliminating the possibility of disassembling it to make changes at future date." enlightened super glue (gel) user: "oh no, a piece has fallen off my model without sustaining any damage." applies one drop of glue and fixes it in 10 seconds.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 21:26
|
|
|
Well... I'm glad I'm not alone  I am still in the process of learning so I guess its a good thing I hosed up on a rhino instead of something more expensive... On another note.. has anyone taken the academy? And as a beginner is it a good idea? They changed some of the items you get at the end. You now get the "How to paint Citadel miniatures" book, the starter paint set including all the foundations, sand (I think), clippers, plastic glue, brush, etc. and a $30.00 box...
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 21:32
|
|
|
my main beef with plastic cement is that it takes too damned long and I have am wildly impatient and easily enraged
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 21:39
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:my main beef with plastic cement is that it takes too damned long and I have am wildly impatient and easily enraged I would have never guessed you to be impatient? How long are your painting stints? Do you only paint for a short time and then stop for awhile?
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 21:50
|
|
|
MasterSlowPoke posted:If you live in the US, go to a Dollar Tree and pick up a toothbrush and some "LA's Totally Awesome", it's piss yellow and in the cleaning supplies section. Let the dudes soak in the stuff for a day or two, then take them out and scrub under running water. The paint and most of the primer should come off, a little bit left behind isn't a big deal. Before:  After:  Bonus nurglesque action shot: 
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 22:11
|
|
|
I couldn't get to sleep on Sunday night and decided to finally get around to the babyphant conversion of a carnifex that I 'started' 3 years ago. 'Started' consisted of cutting off a single hoof on one of the fex's feet and putting everything back in the box. After a night of frenzied chopping, sawing and clipping I ended up with this at 5am. It was originally inspired by Moloch's babyphant on his website but I decided I wanted something more spindly. Here he is pre-greenstuff with a paint-test guant for scale. I'm pretty happy with him now, the breakthrough for me was when I decided that I needed to extend the first joint of his arms and the 2nd joint of his legs and then everything came together the way I envisioned it. What's left (aside from the obvious greenstuff in the joints) is to figure out how I am going to curve it's tail under the body and to create some ball sockets for the weapons closer to the underside of it's body. I might also do some work to it's head/neck so I can get it to point forward instead of down.    Simple Green is awesome... for metal models. Paint and primer slides right off. The primer on my plastic models stubbornly refuses to come off and I use my toothbrush so much that I am worried about wearing down the plastic
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 22:23
|
|
|
Leave it soaking for at least a week, it comes off great after a few weeks in the tank.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 22:48
|
|
|
I just finished up painting Nayl for my burgeoning Retribution army after leaving him half done for a couple of months. Now I just need to keep up the pace.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 22:51
|
|
|
Been busy for what used to be the GBS thread. Crossposting without remorse, since I'm pretty happy.    
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2009 23:52
|
|
|
Aetilus posted:Pro cement retards: Heh, guess someone just isn't pro enough to use big boy glue.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2009 01:22
|
|
|
Aetilus posted:seriously. I'm more bothered about superglue frosting the paint on a model I've spent an age painting than I am about melting details off. If you're using a totally retarded glue dispenser then yea, I can see your point.. but if you're using one of those needle applicators then it's all good, you can just put the glue wherever you need it, no more and no less. One other thing I've found over the years with plastic cement is to rough up the areas you're joining by marking lines in both sides of the plastic with a hobby knife, apply glue to both sides and give it 10 seconds to do its thing, then slap the bits together. Holds pretty instantly and there's not much chance of it slipping and frustrating you.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2009 01:24
|
|
|
Anphrax posted:I would have never guessed you to be impatient? How long are your painting stints? Do you only paint for a short time and then stop for awhile? I usually paint for about 2 hours, take a break, come back...on a long day Ill end up painting for like 8-10 hours over a 12 hour period
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2009 01:40
|
|
|
Would some of you guys (PV and Yog, I'm looking at you) post a tutorial on basic painting, say and Ork or Space Marine. My first model doesn't look very good, and I'd love to see the techniques you guys use to make models look so goddamn awesome.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2009 01:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 02:58 |
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:I usually paint for about 2 hours, take a break, come back...on a long day Ill end up painting for like 8-10 hours over a 12 hour period This is my preferred method, but since I have to use our dining room table it doesn't last that long. I choose to blame my slow output on this fact.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2009 01:48
|
|