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coq mixer posted:My E90 is having a rough Crimmus. It's abandoned on the highway where it got stuck in the blizzard, with fresh battle damage on the driver's side rear quarterpanel. I managed to Tokyo-driftu right into a state trooper while trying to make a turn. The 3-series is a perfect car for most of the year, but just leave it at home when there is ice on the roads. I was driving my E82 during the first big snow and I was sliding all over the place. I managed to go sideways for about 20 yards down the road after going over some railroad tracks at about 15 mph.
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Dec 26, 2009 11:16
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| # ? May 12, 2024 13:05 |
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I see that and raise you "almost sliding through the vice president's front gate during the opening stages of snOMG in DC"
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Dec 26, 2009 20:08
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doogle posted:I was driving my E82 during the first big snow and I was sliding all over the place. I managed to go sideways for about 20 yards down the road after going over some railroad tracks at about 15 mph. What tires were you guys running?
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Dec 26, 2009 21:04
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kimbo305 posted:What tires were you guys running? Blizzak LM-60 in 225/40R18 on all four.
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Dec 26, 2009 21:10
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Pilot Sport PS2 summer tires.  Driving in that poo poo was pretty much the scariest thing I have put myself through in a very long time. I have learned my lesson.
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Dec 26, 2009 21:38
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OrangeFurious posted:Would I see a comfort improvement by replacing them? Yes. I replaced the shocks on my E39 after 80k miles (bought it with 76k) and the difference was stunning. Much more comfortable and much better control and feel. BMW shocks (esp. on Sport Package models) are pretty much done at 50-60k unless you're driving on marble smooth roads all the time.
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Dec 26, 2009 22:55
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Hypothesis: Driving a car wearing summer tires on ice is dangerous. Experiment: coq mixer posted:...abandoned on the highway ... fresh battle damage on the driver's side rear quarterpanel ... right into a state trooper...just leave it at home when there is ice on the roads Conclusion: QED Sterndotstern fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Dec 26, 2009 |
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Dec 26, 2009 22:59
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i wonder if winter wheels on larger rims work any worse than smaller ones. i keep seeing all these 18 inch winter wheels and frankly its pretty surprising that they have winter wheels in that size. i'm used to winter wheels being 16" at most, maybe 17" if you have huge calipers or something.
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Dec 26, 2009 23:01
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I drove my E30 in some 7" snow on xmas day. The engine died from fuel starvation 3 times while trying to drive to work, I turned around for home after the first time. I finally got around to taking a look at the car today and it turns out the + wire to the fuel pump was barely making contact with the terminal on the pump and was arcing. That could have ended badly if there was a vapor leak down there...
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Dec 26, 2009 23:13
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flublandDrussiavelt posted:i wonder if winter wheels on larger rims work any worse than smaller ones. i keep seeing all these 18 inch winter wheels and frankly its pretty surprising that they have winter wheels in that size. i'm used to winter wheels being 16" at most, maybe 17" if you have huge calipers or something. What does the size matter? I figure just width would be the issue. Also, I am not sure how everyone equates BMW + summer tires = BMWs are bad in the snow. Summer tires are bad in the snow. BMWs are fine!
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Dec 26, 2009 23:16
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Brock Landers posted:Yes. I replaced the shocks on my E39 after 80k miles (bought it with 76k) and the difference was stunning. Much more comfortable and much better control and feel. BMW shocks (esp. on Sport Package models) are pretty much done at 50-60k unless you're driving on marble smooth roads all the time. Gotcha - new shocks it is. Any recommendations on a good place to buy 'em? I'm fearing what my suspension repairs are going to cost.
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Dec 26, 2009 23:28
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Dyscrasia posted:What does the size matter? I figure just width would be the issue. Taller tires are slightly better insurance against hitting something hidden in the snow. They might make the difference between a blown tire and a blown tire + bent rim.
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Dec 27, 2009 00:00
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kimbo305 posted:Taller tires are slightly better insurance against hitting something hidden in the snow. They might make the difference between a blown tire and a blown tire + bent rim. I did not think about that, and it does seem like winter tires tend to have more sidewall.
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Dec 27, 2009 00:26
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Dyscrasia posted:I did not think about that, and it does seem like winter tires tend to have more sidewall.
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Dec 27, 2009 00:55
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The wider a tire is, the more easily it'll slip over slush or hard snow, like a toboggan. A narrower tire will have an easier time sinking or cutting down to the ground, which hopefully will offer better grip. In terms of tire choice, if you normally run 205, there'd certainly be no problem downgrading to 195 (and appropriately matched sidewall). You're trading off a small amount of dry grip for snow grip, which should be fine unless you're keen to autocross in the dead of winter.
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Dec 27, 2009 01:03
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The deflating tire thing is like for the arctic top gear episode. They are trying to stay on top of extremely deep snow, so they deflate the tires to spread out the surface area. On regular snow you want the narrow contact patch as kimbo305 was saying.
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Dec 27, 2009 01:53
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two_beer_bishes posted:I drove my E30 in some 7" snow on xmas day. The engine died from fuel starvation 3 times while trying to drive to work, I turned around for home after the first time. Is this the same one that set itself on fire? Is this car ever going to stop trying to kill you?
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Dec 27, 2009 02:20
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Jorsh posted:Is this the same one that set itself on fire? Is this car ever going to stop trying to kill you? Same car! Edit: 2 fires, a sparking fuel pump, and a tie rod that broke while going around a cloverleaf... two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Dec 27, 2009 |
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Dec 27, 2009 02:37
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PSA: If you ever need to take the nav monitor out of an e46, it might be worth it to spend the $15 for the special tool. First you have to rip out the center A/C vent, which takes way more force than you think. I had to keep stopping because I was afraid it was going to break. Then you have to wedge the special tool (or two metal nail files if you're cheap) under these little metal clips that are only visible for 15 seconds at a time when the screen tilts. Without the special tool you have to guess at the alignment somewhat, which makes it tricky. It wasn't much fun, but now I have a nice aux in.
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Dec 27, 2009 05:46
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OrangeFurious posted:Gotcha - new shocks it is. Any recommendations on a good place to buy 'em? I'm fearing what my suspension repairs are going to cost. I bought my stuff from Steve Haygood (https://www.stevehaygood.com but it's down, ATM). He's just a guy working out of his house, but he has some connections in the BMW parts world and usually has great prices on lots of parts. He's not 100% consistent with orders though and a couple times it's taken some back and forth to get things right. He's good 90% of the time and always makes it right. He was in the hospital this summer and I don't know if he's back in business or not. Since his website is down, that might mean he's not taking order anymore. My backups are https://www.pelicanparts.com and https://www.oembimmerparts.com though that second one doesn't have everything.
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Dec 27, 2009 18:14
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I was able to retrieve my car a few minutes ago. Here is a picture of the damage. You can also see how it was plowed under. Anyone want to give a rough estimate of what a competent bodyshop will charge to fix it so it doesn't look like poo poo?
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Dec 27, 2009 18:24
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My right rear brake caliper is making noise, apparently knocking against the rotor. Both caliper bolts are tight and the slides are clean and the pad/caliper mating surfaces are greased (but not the slides). Hard braking makes the noise go away for a while but it quickly comes back. There are not any kind of retaining clips on the caliper, I'm not sure if there are supposed to be or not. Any ideas on what's causing this noise?
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Dec 29, 2009 04:39
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revmoo posted:My right rear brake caliper is making noise, apparently knocking against the rotor. Both caliper bolts are tight and the slides are clean and the pad/caliper mating surfaces are greased (but not the slides). Hard braking makes the noise go away for a while but it quickly comes back. There are not any kind of retaining clips on the caliper, I'm not sure if there are supposed to be or not. Any ideas on what's causing this noise? --
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Dec 29, 2009 05:25
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SiGmA_X posted:First, get the retaining clips. My friends car didn't have them when he bought it, for ~$8-12ea (I think, its been 3yrs) he replaced them just because. I could see the lack of a clip making additional noise. Second, check your caliper piston, does it slide back smoothly when you use "a tool" (big screwdriver typically). Third, take the caliper off and check the bushings, mostly to ensure that they move easily and not have a lot of play. They should have some play, but not too much. If you've played with them before you'd know how they ought to feel. Ok, well it's probably the lack of retaining clips, as there is nothing on there but the pads themselves. I'll go ahead and get those ordered and try that as my first order of business. When you say the bushings, do you mean the tubes that the caliper bolts sit in? Thanks for the help.
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Dec 29, 2009 16:35
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I had a long start today (~10 second crank) with my n54 engine. Is this the beginning of the end or just a fluke? I only have ~3000 miles on it 
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Dec 29, 2009 18:16
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By the way, what the hell is this thing: It was dangling somewhere in the front end of the car. (92 325i)
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Dec 29, 2009 18:26
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Outdoor temperature sensor
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Dec 29, 2009 18:30
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hitze posted:Outdoor temperature sensor Cool, is there somewhere it's supposed to sit? I've got it chilling up by the airbox but it seems like it should clip in somewhere.
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Dec 29, 2009 18:36
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revmoo posted:Cool, is there somewhere it's supposed to sit? I've got it chilling up by the airbox but it seems like it should clip in somewhere. I don't know if it's the same, but on an e34 you can see a little hole in the front bumper near the driver's side fog light that it slides into from the back.
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Dec 29, 2009 20:51
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That's the general area it was dangling so I'll have a look. Thanks for the help folks!
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Dec 29, 2009 21:17
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It should mount within the brake duct.
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Dec 29, 2009 21:39
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*sigh* I'm thinking about selling the Shark. ('87 5 speed 635csi). She's gonna need a new clutch pretty soon, and I'm tired of the fiddly electrics, and if there's one thing I absolutely do NOT know, its car electrics. I'm thinking I could get a great-shape '99 SLK 230 Kompressor for $8k. And the shark is worth easily 6,500 - $7,000, or maybe something else as reliable, newer, fun and unique. I'm just thinking, if I'm gonna cut her loose, I should do it before she flips 100k. What would YOU do?
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Dec 29, 2009 22:15
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I had an `83 633CSi (automatic - boo) and had to sell it before its time (moved across country and would not subject it to Ontario winters). The upside is that during the time I had it very little went wrong so I remember it extremely fondly. Perhaps that is the better alternative than growing bitter/paranoid if and when stuff starts failing and costing you money. It's just a shame there isn't anything comparable in the BMW lineup from the mid-90s. Unless you want to count the 8 series which I've never been very fond of. Different segment and probably a lot more expensive to buy and maintain.
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Dec 29, 2009 22:24
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doogle posted:I had a long start today (~10 second crank) with my n54 engine. Is this the beginning of the end or just a fluke? I only have ~3000 miles on it Probably HPFP.
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Dec 29, 2009 22:32
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priznat posted:I had an `83 633CSi (automatic - boo) and had to sell it before its time (moved across country and would not subject it to Ontario winters). The upside is that during the time I had it very little went wrong so I remember it extremely fondly. I suppose I'm just stuck. I'm sure with another $2000 could get the car where I'm happy with it for another 50 - 100k miles, but on the other hand, at this point the car is at peak value, unless I were to spring for new paint, ding removal and get it to 100% immaculate condition, and even then 8-10k is max value. Of course, it's this line of thinking that makes all of us Bimmer owners the bane of our bank accounts and significant others. I've dreamed about owning this car for years, and now that I own it, I dream about the day when I don't have to think "well, it's a long trip, maybe I should take the Honda instead."
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Dec 29, 2009 23:52
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Clockwork Sputnik posted:I suppose I'm just stuck. I'm sure with another $2000 could get the car where I'm happy with it for another 50 - 100k miles, but on the other hand, at this point the car is at peak value, unless I were to spring for new paint, ding removal and get it to 100% immaculate condition, and even then 8-10k is max value. I think a lot would have to do with the type of driving you do. If you're doing a lot of highway stuff, preferably on some fun, swoopy roads, the extra $2k investment into the shark would be money well spent. You would not be able to get a newer car that would be as nice to drive for lengthy periods of time. Even when I'm driving my 325iT I often think how enjoyable it is and how any minor pain in repairs etc is worth it, and the 6 series is a much nicer drive. Guess it comes down to if the enjoyment you get out of driving/owning it is greater or equal to the annoyance of paying for/fixing any issues that pop up. It's a really tough call, I know! However if you're doubting the fitness of the car to take on an extended trip that's not good. Even if it has been tuned up there will probably be a seed of doubt. I had that when I dabbled in the dark side (audi) and the piece of crap had the engine seize up when the water pump went. I got the car fixed but ever since I was nervous about it konking out again so it was a huge relief when I managed to dump it.
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Dec 30, 2009 00:22
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I had a pretty scary experience with my E34 last night..1994 530i Recently my grandpa and I have been working on getting the heating fixed. The car is running, but the heat still isn't working. Last night I needed to get a haircut and pick up some groceries, so I took the car out. Drove to the haircut place, Best Buy, Meijer, then finally stopped to pick up a bite to eat at the Burger King. When I came back out, the car wouldn't start up. When I put the key in and turned it, the dash lights and everything would come up, air would blow, etc..but when I turned the key enough to try and start the car everything would die. I called my Aunt, figuring it was a battery problem, and she came out to pick me up. When she got there, I hooked up jumper cables, and got the car jumped after a little bit. However, when we started to drive back, with me following her, the car basically shat itself. I got a few hundred yards, and the check engine light popped up, followed by the SRS light and ABS light, then the Brake Fluid light. Then all the lights on the dash started to dim, and the car completely shut off. I couldn't steer, the breaks were non-responsive, and none of the in-car lights would work. Thank goodness we weren't on a major road or a freeway.. We got the car towed back to the house, and it's currently sitting in the driveway. Prior to this, I'd noticed that recently, when playing my Sirius radio (powered through the cigarette lighter) the sound would cut out if I turned on the rear defroster, or used the windshield wipers. Any suggestions on where to go from here?
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Dec 30, 2009 18:55
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GobiasIndustries posted:Any suggestions on where to go from here? Battery or alternator. I would put my money on alternator. Yank it and have Autozone check it with their fancy piece of equipment. It is possible for it to test good and still be bad, but it's worth a shot anyway. Any decent autoparts store should have some Bosch remans on hand that will work for you, or if you have some extra time to wait, buy a reman or new one online from Turner/Bimmerworld/RMEuropean/Pelican/etc., they're usually better quality. If you have a similar battery in known good working condition, or can borrow one, I'd throw it in first before I pull the alternator, just to be sure it isn't a faulty battery that won't charge.
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Dec 30, 2009 19:17
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revmoo posted:Cool, is there somewhere it's supposed to sit? I've got it chilling up by the airbox but it seems like it should clip in somewhere.
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Dec 30, 2009 22:32
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I went and got an estimate to fix the damage from the state trooper incident. 
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Dec 31, 2009 04:15
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