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I've heard good things about using Colour Shapers for sculpting green stuff. Apparently the rubbery tips of these things don't stick to green stuff, so you can sculpt without having to worry about water/petroleum jelly/nose grease. As for sealing your painted models, I'd probably wait to do any static grass additions to the base until after sealing. I'm not sure if the grass would just fall down if you hit it with gloss/matte sealant.
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Dec 26, 2009 21:19
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Little update on my dragon. Been painting all day and gonna have to call it a night here now as the light has gone to poo poo and i cant see straight anymore. Here's some WIP shots though, i'm liking the glowy effect i got going and amazed myself with the top of the wings.  Mud wash is still wet in this picture (stuff takes FOREVER to dry)  Undercoat: Chaos Black Basecoat: Ice Blue Wash: Asureman Blue Wash: Badab Black Drybrush: Mordlan Blue Highlight: Ice Blue + Space Wolves Grey 1:1 Extreme Highlight: as above but 1:2
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Dec 26, 2009 21:27
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Nice looking dragon. While I wait for the FW Nurgle Prince to arrive I've been thinking about how to paint him. I'm inclined towards essentially making him a walking turd with a vat of infected, blood streaked, semen on his back, who goes around spraying AIDS into the faces of his enemies. Have I gone wrong ?
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Dec 26, 2009 21:35
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Sole.Sushi posted:I have never personally used milliput products for any epoxy work, so I couldn't comment on them. How does it react to water? I have a box of Milliput yellow/grey. It's basically the same thing as green stuff, but takes a little longer to set, and is VERY crumbly the first 10 minutes or so. It's super cheap, though, so it's good for filling in spaces before putting green stuff details on top. I've also heard good things about using milliput/green stuff in a 1:1 ratio but I haven't tried that yet.
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Dec 26, 2009 21:44
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Sole.Sushi posted:There are several ways besides water, but water by far works the best--it doesn't react with the product, and it will air dry completely without any sort of work from your end. If you don't mind a bit of scrubbing after you're done, you can use petroleum jelly (Vaseline, etc.) to apply a very thin coat to your tools. I dislike doing this as I have accidentally removed detail while trying to get the jelly out of the green stuff. Just a suggestion here- never done any sculpting myself. Why not use some thing water soluble like KY jelly? Just rinse the stuff off when everything has dried.
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Dec 26, 2009 21:59
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Vaseline is pretty popular.
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Dec 26, 2009 22:02
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Nice looking dragon. Only in your pathology. AIDS is the disease, HIV is the causative agent. I could not comment on your own psychiatric pathology. Contact your GP or Family Doctor. asbo subject fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Dec 26, 2009 |
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Dec 26, 2009 22:04
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Sole.Sushi posted:I have never personally used milliput products for any epoxy work, so I couldn't comment on them. How does it react to water? Messily! It seems almost water soluble when not cured, putting it on there produces a kind of milky liquid that just gets in the way. It'd be useful for large-scale stuff because of how bloody hard it dries I think (plus it's a lot cheaper!), but I can't see myself using it for anything even approaching detail work. Mind you, I've only used Milliput super-fine for filling gaps on tanks because it sands well, so I can't speak for their other products.
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Dec 26, 2009 22:15
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Aranan posted:I've heard good things about using Colour Shapers for sculpting green stuff. Apparently the rubbery tips of these things don't stick to green stuff, so you can sculpt without having to worry about water/petroleum jelly/nose grease. They are awesome, but you should still use water or other lubrication, you just don't need to rely on it so much though. small bits can still sometimes stick to the silicone rubber.
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Dec 26, 2009 23:16
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dpack_1 posted:
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Dec 26, 2009 23:42
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Aranan posted:That looks really well done. Did you do all that just today? Yeah, a good 6-8 hours worth today, still nowhere near finished, need to wash and highlight the underside, pick out the difference between rock and finished stone in the base, want to do more to the scales, haven't touched the mouth and tongue yet and not even started on the riders so i'll probably be at it all day tomorrow too.
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Dec 27, 2009 00:01
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So about a month ago in the main Warham thread !amicable posted this picture. This is the first Eldar paint scheme that I've really liked. Anyone know what paints these are? Tips on how to do the jewels? Would I use white or black primer here?
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Dec 27, 2009 01:44
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Myopic posted:Messily! It seems almost water soluble when not cured, putting it on there produces a kind of milky liquid that just gets in the way. It'd be useful for large-scale stuff because of how bloody hard it dries I think (plus it's a lot cheaper!), but I can't see myself using it for anything even approaching detail work. Mind you, I've only used Milliput super-fine for filling gaps on tanks because it sands well, so I can't speak for their other products. Yeah this is what I've used as well, you get two white "sticks" that are in different colour wrapping to mix together. It's very messy when you add water, but once you've got a blob on a miniature, it doesn't tend to peel off as easily as greenstuff seems to. I use it for gap filling around figure arms/wrists etc where you've had to cut/file to change the angle.
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Dec 27, 2009 01:59
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TotallyGreen posted:So about a month ago in the main Warham thread !amicable posted this picture. This is the first Eldar paint scheme that I've really liked. Anyone know what paints these are? Tips on how to do the jewels? Would I use white or black primer here? I'd say black primer various shades of grey for highlights/gun (might be basecoated deneb stone?)3 There might be a hint of commando khaki in the mix on some of the highlights blue gems- maybe necron abyss or another blue tinted with some black, then a enchanted blue with ice blue highlights Other gems-something maybe dark green leading up to khaki or bleached bone, I cant really tell.
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Dec 27, 2009 02:17
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The lighter grey is codex gray. The armor seems to be charadon granite with dheneb stone hightlights.
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Dec 27, 2009 02:44
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asbo subject posted:Just a suggestion here- never done any sculpting myself. Why not use some thing water soluble like KY jelly? Just rinse the stuff off when everything has dried. Biggest reason is that water will dry 100% when left out in air. Water essentially cleans itself up, and it will do so without any problems. It's also abundant, cheap and absolutely everyone knows how water behaves, which is why I recommend it to everyone. With other lubricants, if you miss cleaning a spot, even a water-soluble product, your primer and paint will not stick. In other words, I'm afraid I'll screw up a model by missing a spot with other lubricants  Using a water-soluble lubricant is a great idea though. I probably wouldn't use KY specifically, but it's certainly worth a try.
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Dec 27, 2009 05:31
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What exactly is in green stuff? My fingertips are all cracked and dried from where I touched it, and I dont remember it doing this before.
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Dec 27, 2009 05:54
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Air brushing, I know it has been posted about before but I can't find those posts in the other thread so I'll ask here. Gravity fed or siphoned? Has anyone tried spraying primer? If so where do you get liquid primer and what type? I have the compressor but need to know about the airbrushes so I buy the best unit for hobby painting. Thanks.
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Dec 27, 2009 06:30
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As I understand it gravity feed is generally regarded as the best.
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Dec 27, 2009 06:52
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To summarize: gravity fed, double action, multiple tips, airbrushed primer is fine - any acrylic primer in a bottle, properly thinned, should work. Buy an Iwata HP-C unless you want to drop $300 on a Paasche AB of some sort (no idea about cheap options)
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Dec 27, 2009 07:31
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Morning posted:What exactly is in green stuff? My fingertips are all cracked and dried from where I touched it, and I dont remember it doing this before. Each manufacturer has a specific blend of materials inside their two-part epoxies. While all are safe for handling with bare skin, not everyone's skin is so forgiving. Sometimes there will be chemicals inside the epoxy that cause irritation and dry skin. Just moisturize beforehand, and you should be okay. As a note: if your fingertips get so bad that it hurts or gets really uncomfortable, congratulations! You are likely allergic to a chemical inside the epoxy!  Never fear, though. Simply wear powder-free latex gloves, keep a bit of water on your fingers, and you'll be fine. Also: Indolent Bastard, gesso is an acrylic primer that can be thinned and airbrushed onto a surface. Beware, as it shrinks considerably. You may need to spray it twice to get full coverage. Many goons love gesso, while others hate it with a passion. Try it and see if you like it, it's cheap enough that if you don't like it, you won't regret the purchase.
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Dec 27, 2009 08:13
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Painted this up rather quick.  drat, now I do want to make more of these. Gonna have to try to scavenge some bitz from friends. Just in case, anyone know a good site to buy warhammer plastic bitz? \/ I'm in Sweden R.S. Gumby fucked around with this message at 14:21 on Dec 27, 2009 |
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Dec 27, 2009 13:58
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What country are you in?
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Dec 27, 2009 14:15
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Update on my WIP High Elf Dragon:    Didn't spend that much time on it today, just sorted out the rock and stone finishes on the scenery, touched up the armour a bit more and did a lot of work on the head and mouth. Still need to do the underside body and wings, highlight the scales, finish up the reigns, touch up the feet and claws and then work on the riders. Urgh this is one hell of a big, detail heavy model.
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Dec 27, 2009 19:55
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That dragon is really looking great man, keep it up! In other news:   
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Dec 27, 2009 21:52
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Here is a Goblin Pirate from Reaper I painted as a birthday gift for a coworker. The peacock feather didn't turn out quite as nicely as I would like. 
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Dec 27, 2009 21:57
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Fyrbrand posted:That dragon is really looking great man, keep it up! You got what I wanted for Christmas. Good thing the birthday is 'round the corner! 
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Dec 28, 2009 00:31
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Does anyone have experience with Pig Iron heads? There's a squad painting competition at my FLGS coming up and I want to use some to make a traitor guard unit.
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Dec 28, 2009 02:26
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 C&C the freehand if you may! The rest of the paint is a little thick but I think the freehand turned out pretty well. Needs another coat of thin white!
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Dec 28, 2009 08:18
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Remember when I said I would paint some slaves first? I lied   
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Dec 28, 2009 08:46
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FirstCongoWar posted:Does anyone have experience with Pig Iron heads? There's a squad painting competition at my FLGS coming up and I want to use some to make a traitor guard unit. They're great. You just need to file down the neck a bit and they sit perfectly on cadian bodies.
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Dec 28, 2009 11:04
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Combaticus posted:They are awesome, but you should still use water or other lubrication, you just don't need to rely on it so much though. small bits can still sometimes stick to the silicone rubber. Sometimes you need it and other times you don't. One of the best things to learn about greenstuff is how to take advantage of the fact that it's more like sculpting with chewing gum than with clay. The fact that it is so tacky can be useful, sometimes. Also color shapers are awesome, but you will still want to have a hard edged tool on hand.
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Dec 28, 2009 12:26
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Sneak peak of 10 slaves I knocked out this afternoon, need a wash on the fur, eyes and teeth/nails done and the bases finished but most of the work is done on this. Not doing them to too fancy a degree since I'll have dozens of them to do and they'll be in big ranked blocks anyway but I think it's going to end up a decent tabletop standard. I've not spent very much worktime on these and they're already looking quite servicable. After I finish these and another 10 slaves to round out the unit I might start on converting a hellpit abomination 
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Dec 28, 2009 12:42
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Anphrax posted:
Dig it, after the last coat of white, thin out some of the purple and use it to clean up the edges a bit
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Dec 28, 2009 17:00
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The day's update on the dragon Got the saddle and belts done, the underside of the wings and highlighted the fleshy body parts and brightened up the scales some what. Pretty much all that's left is the reigns and claws. And i'm thinking of going for a sand and static grass base.    What's this i hear about painting sand? any tips on doing that before i glue everything in place?
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Dec 28, 2009 18:32
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dpack_1 posted:The day's update on the dragon All I can say is that it looks great. A friend of mine used to base his Dark Angels by putting down ballast and priming it with the rest of the model and dry brushing it red/washing it black and dry brushing it red again. I imagine sand isn't hard, just find some or buy some that the train modelers use
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Dec 28, 2009 18:53
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I use woodland scenics ballast, I mix the small and medium together so I get a variety of consistency. The trick is to use good white glue, slightly dilluted, and glue the sand down to the base.  then dont loving touch it for like 5 hours That glue has to be very, very dry for you to paint the sand. Paint it with a thinned dark color and after that is dry, drybrush with a lighter color.
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Dec 28, 2009 19:04
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PaintVagrant posted:Dig it, after the last coat of white, thin out some of the purple and use it to clean up the edges a bit You have no idea how much this means to me  Though... this picture was taken before I cleaned up the edges. I'll post a final picture when I do another coat of white. Any tips for gloss and matte coats to keep it safe?
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Dec 28, 2009 19:30
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Anphrax posted:You have no idea how much this means to me gloss spray, let it dry a day, a couple of coats of matte. If youre worried about shine, just do a couple of coats of matte, but I like using the gloss...it makes the model pretty hard to damage
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Dec 28, 2009 19:58
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PaintVagrant posted:gloss spray, let it dry a day, a couple of coats of matte. If youre worried about shine, just do a couple of coats of matte, but I like using the gloss...it makes the model pretty hard to damage A couple months ago I heard that just matte might look bad.. any input on that?
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Dec 28, 2009 20:24
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