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it would also look way better with some smoother coats, sorry bro (still drat good considering)
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Dec 29, 2009 23:58
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Some paints are thin enough consistency to paint out of the pot, but typically what happens is it glomps on your brush and dries too fast to use that way for any extended period...so at first its fine but then you start getting brush marks and poo poo. And yeah, while you CAN paint that way, there is literally no reason to not use a palette...it saves you paint, saves your brushes, and means your paint consistency will be smoother
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Dec 30, 2009 00:01
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Bhyo posted:unthinned stuff Also the foundation paints in particular are awful out of the pot and dry really really fast. I can't see how you could do a large smooth surface without thinning them.
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Dec 30, 2009 00:07
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That isn't a casting error. Seriously there is no excuse for not thinning paints especially when it is clear that you have talent. If you had thinned your paints that model would be pristine and it wouldn't like house paint bubbling off the wall.
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Dec 30, 2009 00:15
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If you have that much skill to do that with unthinned paints, stop being retarded and thin them.
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Dec 30, 2009 01:24
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If it makes anyone feel better, my un-thinned Mecharite Red Foundation Paint took two coats over white primer to look non-splotchy. Also, going to use cold water from now on. Is it good enough to clean them by swishing them around said water, then drying them on a paper towel until no more paint comes off?
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Dec 30, 2009 01:45
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Iron Squid posted:If it makes anyone feel better, my un-thinned Mecharite Red Foundation Paint took two coats over white primer to look non-splotchy. yeah, sort of spin the brush in your hand as you drag it across the paper towel so you keep the point together. Never use unthinned foundation paints!
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Dec 30, 2009 02:24
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Also, clean your brushes every few minutes while painting. If you're just using one color on a bunch of guys and go 20 minutes between cleaning your brush, Bad Things could happen.
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Dec 30, 2009 02:45
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PaintVagrant posted:yeah, sort of spin the brush in your hand as you drag it across the paper towel so you keep the point together. gently caress me, that's all I've been using! Should I thin them out 1:1 with water?
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Dec 30, 2009 02:49
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Iron Squid posted:gently caress me, that's all I've been using! Should I thin them out 1:1 with water? put them on the palette, thin til they are about the consistency of cream or whole milk. Question: are you using a palette with dimples? If youre using just a flat palette with no convex areas, foundation paint will dry out VERY fast. All paints will dry out super fast, but foundation in particular
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Dec 30, 2009 02:54
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PaintVagrant posted:put them on the palette, thin til they are about the consistency of cream or whole milk. Well, what I have is a white plastic thing that has six quarter-sized depressions in it, like something you would rest a half-dozen eggs in. Is this what you're talking about?
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Dec 30, 2009 04:10
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Iron Squid posted:Well, what I have is a white plastic thing that has six quarter-sized depressions in it, like something you would rest a half-dozen eggs in. Is this what you're talking about? yup, thats it. Because the paint pools it doesnt dry nearly as fast, which is awesome.
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Dec 30, 2009 04:11
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PaintVagrant posted:yup, thats it. Because the paint pools it doesnt dry nearly as fast, which is awesome. Cool. I will try that when I get home tonite. Should I also thin out my Chaos Black? Also, does anyone have any good tips for painting the chainsword/gun? Preferably with photos so I can see if I like the look. 
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Dec 30, 2009 04:43
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Was this PV's? It's been so long since I've followed the thread but I think this deserves OP attention... Click here for the full 612x612 image.  Click here for the full 612x612 image.  Click here for the full 612x612 image.  Click here for the full 612x612 image. On another note... I am going to start a Chaos Space Marine army. Should I get the Battleforce or Renegade Strike Force? Which one will gain me more in the long run? edit: and I would love to see some sexy chaos sm ideas thrown around... if anyone has any sweet links that would be cool 
Red Robin Hood fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Dec 30, 2009 |
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Dec 30, 2009 04:45
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PaintVagrant made that.
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Dec 30, 2009 05:51
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Anphrax posted:Was this PV's? It's been so long since I've followed the thread but I think this deserves OP attention... Broken Loose posted:PaintVagrant made that. I can't tell if you're trying to make me look like a liar... but. Also: PV = PaintVagrant. And in my OP I misspelled PV as PA. Fixed and hosed.
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Dec 30, 2009 05:54
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Anphrax posted:I can't tell if you're trying to make me look like a liar... but. He was confirming your guess.
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Dec 30, 2009 05:55
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MasterSlowPoke posted:He was confirming your guess. Sorry Broken. I've had to defend myself against the vicious Modern Warfare goons in the chat lately so I'm a bit defensive. /defensive position
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Dec 30, 2009 05:57
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Sole.Sushi posted:Using a water-soluble lubricant is a great idea though. I probably wouldn't use KY specifically, but it's certainly worth a try. I use Nivea skin moisturiser (the bog-standard one) and it works very well for lubricating Greenstuff, Milliput, Magic Sculpt and even Mr. Strong Putty (Japanese brand). It air-dries in about 30 mins or so if you use it sparingly, and is easily washed off with a little soap and water. I hate using water to lubricate because surface tension means it likes to congeal as little droplets rather than actually wetting the tools and greenstuff. Also to add to your previous description of putties, I'll add a few that I've used and found useful: Milliput PROS: Cheap, rock hard when cured. CONS: Difficult to sculpt into fine details. Rock hard when cured means that it isn't really suitable for fine work as your tools will have a hard time with it. Also leaves a lot of residue which gunks up your files/sandpaper. Magic Sculpt (UK brand name) PROS: Cheap(er) than greenstuff. Cures hard, and holds sharp edges well. Light and is easily sanded, drilled and cut, can be sanded to a very smooth finish. CONS: Can be brittle when dry, especially if thin (~1mm), be careful when tooling. No flex at all. Can be difficult to sculpt when it's not cured as it has a more paste-like consistency compared to greenstuff. Mr. Strong Putty (produced by Gunze Sangyo - Japan) PROS: Very light, very easy to sculpt, isn't very sticky during it's working time. Cures hard, very easy to sand, drill and cut. CONS: Crazy expensive (GW greenstuff prices) and difficult to find if you're not in the Far East. Magic Sculpt is only very slightly inferior, and probably costs about 1/5 the price. Edit: Also regarding Brownstuff, I was wondering if it had any flex to it at all like Greenstuff, or is it more similar to the putties I've described above? Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Dec 30, 2009 |
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Dec 30, 2009 06:00
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Z the IVth posted:Also regarding Brownstuff, I was wondering if it had any flex to it at all like Greenstuff, or is it more similar to the putties I've described above? It doesn't have much unless you purposely sculpt it to be flexible-ish, like a banner or something. Otherwise, it's pretty rigid.
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Dec 30, 2009 06:36
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Anphrax posted:Was this PV's? It's been so long since I've followed the thread but I think this deserves OP attention... This is awesome. I too would like more info on Chaos Space Marines!
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Dec 30, 2009 07:13
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Yeah taht thing was mine...its pretty easy to make if you can find the basic "coloring book" version of the picture. I just roughed it out in photoshop
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Dec 30, 2009 07:33
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Finally all based properly, added a few highlights i realised i'd missed in the model such as the jewels on the reigns and what not. Not half bad for the first model i've painted that wasnt a genestealer in the past 15 years even if i do say so myself!     
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Dec 30, 2009 10:00
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I really like the obelisk thing and the stonework. Great jorb!
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Dec 30, 2009 10:12
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PaintVagrant posted:On another note... I am going to start a Chaos Space Marine army. Should I get the Battleforce or Renegade Strike Force? Which one will gain me more in the long run? If I was an SDW regular, I would tell you to do Slaanesh. You should still do Slaanesh though.
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Dec 30, 2009 11:07
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Bobx66 posted:That isn't a casting error. Seriously there is no excuse for not thinning paints especially when it is clear that you have talent. If you had thinned your paints that model would be pristine and it wouldn't like house paint bubbling off the wall. That was a casting error on the right part actually. It was a hole I filled quite roughly with green stuff. The whole model was full of errors, particularly on the wraithbone parts, most noticeably on the shoulder guard. My whole point was its possible to paint out of the pot if you really want to, and if I hadnt said anything about using unthinned paints no-one would have noticed. But if you had read you would have seen I said this was the last model I did without thinning paints because it was the first one I had done that looked good. So have some of my better work.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. This one got frosted by a bad coat of spray varnish, which really annoyed me at the time but a 2nd coat almost fixed it so its not that bad now.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Waffleimages is being a bit poo poo and only loading half the pictures I try and upload so I'll stop now.
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Dec 30, 2009 11:32
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I used to paint straight from the pot when I didn't know any better. It's not so bad when you open a fresh pot but the longer you paint straight from the pot, the thicker the paint gets. I used to pour water directly into the pots when I noticed them getting thick and thin my paint that way. Now I paint like a normal person.
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Dec 30, 2009 12:05
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Sole.Sushi posted:It doesn't have much unless you purposely sculpt it to be flexible-ish, like a banner or something. Otherwise, it's pretty rigid. Even while you're working with it it has a kind of plasticine-ish consistency, much less rubbery/springy than green stuff -- really easy to get a sharp edge out of it. Makes it perfect for armour, weapons and other non-organic stuff. Much easier to file or carve after it's cured too.
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Dec 30, 2009 13:20
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GoodBee posted:I used to paint straight from the pot when I didn't know any better. It's not so bad when you open a fresh pot but the longer you paint straight from the pot, the thicker the paint gets. I used to pour water directly into the pots when I noticed them getting thick and thin my paint that way. Now I paint like a normal person. One of the guys who worked at my local GW used to thin his paints in the pot. Used to say it had just enough room to thin the paints right. I never really tried it to know. I'm terrible though and used to use paints straight from the pot. Though with my warmachine stuff I was particularly careful about making sure it looked good, I'll need to pull it out and see if I can find anything wrong with them. But my Warhammer necrons were all dry brushed. . . does it make a difference then?
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Dec 30, 2009 18:00
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A Powerful Cream posted:If I was an SDW regular, I would tell you to do Slaanesh. when the heck did i post that
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Dec 30, 2009 18:01
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PaintVagrant posted:when the heck did i post that Anphrax posted it, dunno where he got your username from.
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Dec 30, 2009 18:24
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I'm pretty sure metallic paints are made from axle grease, pan scourers, and the snot of demonically possessed elephants. I've just painted the metals on 7 of the 8 stormboyz on my desk, and it's going to take a while to summon the will to do the last one. After that, I get to do all the fiddly straps and tubes, hooray.
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Dec 30, 2009 19:28
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I have a few questions about spray-on sealers. A friend of mine just got some models in that he sent off to get painted. The guy said he sealed them, but a model is showing signs of chipping (from where the metal tab at the end of the tape measurer hit it). Would that have happened if it was sealed? I felt the models and they didn't feel how I imagine something that had been hardcote'd or whatever would feel, they just felt like normal painted models. Happily, I have a spray can of dullcote and hardcote coming, so I can lend it to him if needed. What's the best way to use them though? One go with the glossy hardcote and then a few quick, thin layers of dullcote is what I heard.
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Dec 30, 2009 19:28
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MinionOfCthulhu posted:I have a few questions about spray-on sealers. A friend of mine just got some models in that he sent off to get painted. The guy said he sealed them, but a model is showing signs of chipping (from where the metal tab at the end of the tape measurer hit it). Would that have happened if it was sealed? I felt the models and they didn't feel how I imagine something that had been hardcote'd or whatever would feel, they just felt like normal painted models. If the model has enough sharp edges and is sufficiently heavy, then anything but the gentlest of touches will cause the paint to wear down regardless of sealing. This is especially bad with the larger Privateer Press Miniatures. Alternatively poor washing pre-primer can cause the paint to rub off over time as well. However, hitting a miniature with the metal end of a tape measure will almost certainly chip it, regardless of how much varnish has gone on it. That is fairly serious abuse for a paint job to receive tbh.
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Dec 30, 2009 19:50
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How can I make the chainsword and bolter on my Chaos SM look good?
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Dec 30, 2009 19:51
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Iron Squid posted:How can I make the chainsword and bolter on my Chaos SM look good? What's your paint scheme?
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Dec 30, 2009 19:55
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Iron Squid posted:How can I make the chainsword and bolter on my Chaos SM look good? Basecoat tin bitz, drybrush boltgun metal, wash with badab black, thin some orangey brown colour and dab that on as rust streaks then highlight with boltgun metal. Or use PaintVagrants Patented Rust Recipe that I can't remember right now, but he is doubtless copy pasting right now Edit: Wait, if your guys aren't plague marines, they might not have old rusted weapons. Your guys are plague marines, right?
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Dec 30, 2009 20:30
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Danger - Octopus! posted:Basecoat tin bitz, drybrush boltgun metal, wash with badab black, thin some orangey brown colour and dab that on as rust streaks then highlight with boltgun metal. That recipe sounds pretty good. And no, my guys aren't plague marines. Just red/black/gold Chaos Marines. I will probably be getting some plague marines really, really soon, though.
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Dec 30, 2009 20:39
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Iron Squid posted:That recipe sounds pretty good. Weapons that were a nice brass colour would go well with that.
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Dec 30, 2009 21:35
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Iron Squid posted:That recipe sounds pretty good. Teeth and metal bits on chainsword: chainmail Housing or whatever: The same red color that you use Wash the metal in baal red
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Dec 30, 2009 21:38
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