Miniature Painting/Sculpting/Modelling Megathread (Shut up and use Simple Green)

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PaintVagrant: Apr 13, 2007; ~ the ultimate driving machine ~

these are pretty rad

http://www.mercsminis.com/Store.php

# ? Dec 30, 2009 21:43

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# ? Apr 25, 2024 06:13

Fix: Jul 26, 2005; NEWT THE MOON

Those would slide into Infinity real nice.

# ? Dec 30, 2009 23:58

PaintVagrant: Apr 13, 2007; ~ the ultimate driving machine ~

e: a bunch of wrong poo poo that I thought about those models

PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Dec 31, 2009

# ? Dec 31, 2009 00:30

Morham: Jun 4, 2007

I have been slowly chipping my way into a unit of brettonian knights, my plan for the army is to make it actually look rag tag and questy, rather than pristine and shiney. To that end I have been combining the knights with men at arms, plus I love the men at arms shield and heads...my results? well I only have one photo at the moment but I will add more later!

The entire unit will be blue with the gold cross, sort of their family/brotherhood/"knight tutor group" symbol tying them all together but each has its own heraldry, this guy has a bad rear end hammer cos he's a bad rear end. Yes I am hand painting my heraldry and yes I want to kill myself already...and sorry for mold lines I'm just a bad person I guess. I have almost finished 2 others, and needless to say I am the slowest painter in the universe, one day = one knight...just.

Now I have a digital camera, expect more photos

EDIT - Also I don't really like the damsel models, so I have been toying with the idea of using friars/priests...the musicians from the men at arms kit would be its base, is this a dumb idea?...anyway expect photos. Also I have no light box so I just did the best I could!

Morham fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Dec 31, 2009

# ? Dec 31, 2009 00:57

MinionOfCthulhu: Oct 28, 2005; I got this title for free due to my proximity to an idiot who wanted to save $5 on an avatar by having someone else spend $9.95 instead.

Z the IVth posted:

If the model has enough sharp edges and is sufficiently heavy, then anything but the gentlest of touches will cause the paint to wear down regardless of sealing. This is especially bad with the larger Privateer Press Miniatures. Alternatively poor washing pre-primer can cause the paint to rub off over time as well.

However, hitting a miniature with the metal end of a tape measure will almost certainly chip it, regardless of how much varnish has gone on it. That is fairly serious abuse for a paint job to receive tbh.

Oh, okay. I thought the reason for the sealing was to protect the paint job. It doesn't sound like it does a very good job.

# ? Dec 31, 2009 02:24

Aranan: May 21, 2007; Release the Kraken

MinionOfCthulhu posted:

Oh, okay. I thought the reason for the sealing was to protect the paint job. It doesn't sound like it does a very good job.

It does protect the paint job, but it's more like protecting it from just normal gameplay. If you drop models or rub protrusions (heh) then the paint is going to come off no matter what.

[edit] I came across an explanation of the "two brush" painting method. I'll just edit the format a bit, because otherwise it's a massive wall of text. It's by Matt DiPietro; he's a painter (apparently the only painter) on Privateer Press's staff.

Matt DiPietro posted:

Hey guys, thought I'd poke my head in here with some advice. There are a two common misconceptions that will cause people problems the first has to do with paint consistency. When two-brushing I use paint only slightly thinned with water to break the surface tension and no medium is used 95% of the time. We think that since paint that is highly diluted has a lot of water in it that it will dry more slowly which is why we tend to add lots of water when first trying to two-brush but in fact the very wet paint will dry almost instantly around the edge when applied while drying slowly in the middle (this has to do with surface tension) causing the frustrating bathtub rings that tend to stump two-brush neophytes.

When applying the paint do not apply the paint in a thin layer as you may be used to doing from other blending methods, instead paint should be quickly applied to an area in a "dot" or "dab" and then a large (#3) saliva wetted brush is used to blend the paint. Imagine the paint on the model before blending as having a slight 3-dimensionality or bubble to it this will solve your quick drying problem once you get that second brush on the model and start blending you can generally push the paint around for a very long time without it drying.

Lastly I would encourage painters who use small brushes like the W&N mini series brushes to use larger brushes like #1 & #2 from the regular windsor and newton line since this will facilitate getting that "bubble" of paint that is easy to blend. While the two-brush technique is the technique is the one I use the most often I also use other professional blending techniques like juicing and Wet blending; while each of these techniques has it's stengths and limitations I'd say that the end results of each are equal in smoothness of blend and that no one technique is better than any other. If you find that one is smoother than another this is only a difference of skill not in technique at least that is my experience. Hope that helps you guys

Your faithful studio painter,
Matt DiPietro

another post made later

First of all the layering method of blending in which very thin layers of of paint are built up gradually to create blends can look really great, as is evidenced by your paint jobs JTY, and is used by many award winning painters. So if thats what you know and enjoy you should stick with it since there is nothing inferior about it when it comes to the results.

The juicing method of blending bears similarities to layering method and also uses paint diluted to the same consistency. I'll explain it but it may be even harder to visualize than two-brush! Ok so start with very diluted paint and a small brush (W&N mini series or regular W&N 1 or smaller P3 studio brushes are a good low cost alternative as well) make sure that your brush is only partially loaded with paint by wiping the brush on palette etc this is essential.

Now the hard part- juicing is all in careful application of paint and is based on the idea that when a brush stroke is applied the point where the brush leaves the model has a higher concentration of paint than where the brush first touched the model. So if highlighting your paint is applied with a series of quick strokes that move towards the highlight. Usually each stroke covers a large portion of the surface painted but most of the surface is only tinted because the concentration of paint is so low. These translucent layers can do the job of many many layers of paint applied in the layering method of blending which is why many painters switch once they are exposed to and master this technique the same is true for two-brushing.

For example I've heard of master painters of the layering method applying 20+ layers to achieve the desired blend while most blends I do for studio level painting are 5 layers including the base coat and since the layers take only a bit longer to apply this in theory means your saving time which can be spent adding freehand, effects, or just moving on to something else. Some other reasons to two-brush include how easy it is to instantly fix mistakes as they happen so if you accidentally dab an area you didn't mean to hit, a quick swipe of the blending brush can fix the mistake before it dries! This is sometimes used to paint hard to get to areas without any fear of messing up finished areas which in turn allows you to assemble most models completely before painting saving a lot of time!

That last part about using the two brush method to paint hard to reach areas on assembled models sounds pretty cool. Has anyone tried doing that?

Aranan fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Dec 31, 2009

# ? Dec 31, 2009 02:29

Feeple: Jul 17, 2004; My favorite part of this hobby is the rules arguments.

PaintVagrant posted:

these are pretty rad

http://www.mercsminis.com/Store.php

Holy gently caress do I want those. I don't even know what I'd use them for. May I could paint them up as Clone Troopers and have people play a Star Wars Republic Commando game, or something... :swoon:

EDIT: I forgot I had some Paypal left over from an old deal! THESE BAD BOYS ARE ON THE WAY

Feeple fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Dec 31, 2009

# ? Dec 31, 2009 04:14

Captain Scurvy: May 29, 2009

so i got bored painting my last honorguard and decided i wanted to do some converting. Im doing a space wolves army and really love the story for Bjorn the Fel-handed. After a whole night of converting and assembling i submit for approval
Eldest, Trueclaw, Last of the company of Russ Bjorn the fel-handed!

# ? Dec 31, 2009 04:59

crime fighting hog: Jun 29, 2006; I only pray, Heaven knows when to lift you out

Captain Scurvy posted:

so i got bored painting my last honorguard and decided i wanted to do some converting. Im doing a space wolves army and really love the story for Bjorn the Fel-handed. After a whole night of converting and assembling i submit for approval
Eldest, Trueclaw, Last of the company of Russ Bjorn the fel-handed!

I like it so far but I'd lose one of the wolf pelts on the front. I can dig the whole wolf motif but a little bit goes a wrong way. Just my opinion though.

# ? Dec 31, 2009 05:35

Sole.Sushi: Feb 19, 2008; Seaweed!? Get the fuck out!

crime fighting hog posted:

...a little bit goes a wrong way. Just my opinion though.

I agree. A little bit goes a long way. Less is more, and whatnot. But, I've always been attracted to minimalism as a design style and an artistic expression.

# ? Dec 31, 2009 05:46

Fyrbrand: Dec 30, 2002; Grimey Drawer

crime fighting hog posted:

I like it so far but I'd lose one of the wolf pelts on the front. I can dig the whole wolf motif but a little bit goes a wrong way. Just my opinion though.

Thirding this. I think if you got rid of one of the pairs of wolf tails or whatever you'd be good. I'd suggest removing the pair on the chassis over the pair on the banner. I'm not crazy about the claws on the powerfist but I get why you did it.

# ? Dec 31, 2009 06:23

Iron Squid: Nov 23, 2005; by Ozmaugh

Anyone have some decent images of Red Corsair Chaos Space Marines? I want to use that color scheme in painting my CSM but the images in the Codex aren't as good as I'd like.

# ? Dec 31, 2009 07:24

Morning: Aug 10, 2008

Iron Squid posted:

Anyone have some decent images of Red Corsair Chaos Space Marines? I want to use that color scheme in painting my CSM but the images in the Codex aren't as good as I'd like.

I messed around with them before, so here are some links
http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=227346
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.php?showtopic=129690&pid=1494244&mode=threaded&start=#entry1494244
http://www.40konline.com/community/index.php?topic=165114.0 (this one is the best by far. One of his previous threads had some really nice stuff, but you now have to register to see it and I can be bothered)

# ? Dec 31, 2009 08:02

Iron Squid: Nov 23, 2005; by Ozmaugh

Morning posted:

I messed around with them before, so here are some links
http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=227346
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.php?showtopic=129690&pid=1494244&mode=threaded&start=#entry1494244
http://www.40konline.com/community/index.php?topic=165114.0 (this one is the best by far. One of his previous threads had some really nice stuff, but you now have to register to see it and I can be bothered)

Awesome! Thank for those.

Oh, should I thin out my gold paint, too?

Iron Squid fucked around with this message at 08:59 on Dec 31, 2009

# ? Dec 31, 2009 08:38

Morning: Aug 10, 2008

Iron Squid posted:

Awesome! Thank for those.

Oh, should I thin out my gold paint, too?

Always thin your paints :colbert:

Except maybe the very lightest shade of gold, that one came at about the right consistency twice now, so it may be the paint itself.

# ? Dec 31, 2009 10:04

CyberLord XP: Oct 18, 2005; Goldie...She says her name is Goldie

Can someone repost the vid of the guy using an airbrushed metal paint with polishing powder to give a nice shiny metallic effect. I'm trying to find the stuff and I jsut can't find where it was mentioned.

# ? Dec 31, 2009 15:06

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

Has anyone used the P3 brushes? I ordered the W&N Series 7 miniature brushes, but I think I should have also picked up some regular #1 and #2 Series 7 brushes. I was wondering if the P3 brushes are any good, or if they are the normal cheap brushes everyone else offers.

# ? Dec 31, 2009 16:12

stabbington: Sep 1, 2007; It doesn't feel right to kill an unarmed man... but I'll get over it.

They're not anything special.

# ? Dec 31, 2009 16:14

TTerrible: Jul 15, 2005

CyberLord XP posted:

Can someone repost the vid of the guy using an airbrushed metal paint with polishing powder to give a nice shiny metallic effect. I'm trying to find the stuff and I jsut can't find where it was mentioned.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXTqlEsvXRA

I can't help but think I'd make such a terrible, terrible mess if I ever tried this.

# ? Dec 31, 2009 16:34

CyberLord XP: Oct 18, 2005; Goldie...She says her name is Goldie

Vondizimo posted:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXTqlEsvXRA

I can't help but think I'd make such a terrible, terrible mess if I ever tried this.

Thanks a bunch!

# ? Dec 31, 2009 16:48

PaintVagrant: Apr 13, 2007; ~ the ultimate driving machine ~

Captain Scurvy posted:

so i got bored painting my last honorguard and decided i wanted to do some converting. Im doing a space wolves army and really love the story for Bjorn the Fel-handed. After a whole night of converting and assembling i submit for approval
Eldest, Trueclaw, Last of the company of Russ Bjorn the fel-handed!

I think it looks pretty close to the old bjorn model, but Id redo the claws...maybe get some plasticard and just build the long lightning claws. Otherwise it seems pretty dead on

# ? Dec 31, 2009 16:50

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

stabbington posted:

They're not anything special.

Hmm. Well, I guess I'll drop the $6.95 shipping and get the W&N brushes just to be on the safe side.

ALSO: Extra 5% off today at the Warstore, just in case you missed the Black Friday sale.

berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Dec 31, 2009

# ? Dec 31, 2009 16:53

Combaticus: Jan 14, 2008; Perfection

Dominance

Ultimate

Fighting

Biotechnology

PaintVagrant posted:

Theyre too big, they are almost 40mm from what I understand. They might remind you of infinity for another reason, they are painted by the same guy who paints all of infinity's studio models

Nuh uh � I'm thinking they'd make a pretty good Van Saar gang.

# ? Dec 31, 2009 19:02

PaintVagrant: Apr 13, 2007; ~ the ultimate driving machine ~

Combaticus posted:

Nuh uh � I'm thinking they'd make a pretty good Van Saar gang.

Wow I couldnt have been more wrong, I swore I read somewhere that they were huge

# ? Dec 31, 2009 19:05

Dead Cow: Nov 4, 2009; Passion makes the world go round.
Love just makes it a safer place.

Does anyone have and good tips or tutorials for removing flash and mold lines without losing detail? I use an xacto knife and small hobby file, however I received a bunch of (pewter) minis for Christmas, and I'm having difficulty getting rid of all the mold lines without losing fine detail.

Thank you.

# ? Dec 31, 2009 19:26

Combaticus: Jan 14, 2008; Perfection

Dominance

Ultimate

Fighting

Biotechnology

Other than some extra plating for some stuff, and a little robot arm for an ork, this is my first real go at plasticard, I figured making a trukk would be the best way to hide my gently caress ups.

Things I've learned, plasticard rods, can be a bitch to cut, next time use some sort of guide for the build and I need more glue.

# ? Dec 31, 2009 20:14

berzerkmonkey: Jul 23, 2003

PV or anyone else for that matter - any tips on painting Blood Angels red? I was looking at a base of Blood Red, followed by a Flesh Wash, but I'm concerned I'm going to need a million coats of BR to cover white primer. I know I could do a Foundation red base, but I really want to do as few steps as possible.

Also, has anyone tried the Army Painter Red? I was wondering if it was similar to any existing GW or Vallejo paints.

berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Dec 31, 2009

# ? Dec 31, 2009 20:46

dpack_1: Mar 23, 2009; Let another's wounds be your warning

berzerkmonkey posted:

PV or anyone else for that matter - any tips on painting Blood Angels red? I was looking at a base of Blood Red, followed by a Flesh Wash, but I'm concerned I'm going to need a million coats of BR to cover white primer. I know I could do a Foundation red base, but I really want to do as few steps as possible.

Also, has anyone tried the Army Painter Red? I was wondering if it was similar to any existing GW or Vallejo paints.

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?categoryId=&pIndex=1&aId=400007a&start=2

I used that for painting my genestealers and they came out pretty much identical to the guide so i'm gonna go ahead and assume it's good for the BA's too.

# ? Dec 31, 2009 20:57

MasterSlowPoke: Oct 9, 2005; Our courage will pull us through

One coat of Red Gore over white primer followed by a coat of Blood Red works wonders for me.

# ? Dec 31, 2009 21:03

PaintVagrant: Apr 13, 2007; ~ the ultimate driving machine ~

I do a couple of thinned coats of blood red over white primer, then I shade it with thinned brown ink (old GW) in the recesses only, not a wash.

Then highlight with a touch of yellow and white mixed into the red.

Like dis:

# ? Dec 31, 2009 21:03

Kestral: Nov 24, 2000; Forum Veteran

My Warstore order finally arrived after being lost in the mail since Thanksgiving, bringing me a Hive Tyrant and Lictor kit. I've never worked with metal before, so I thought I'd inquire here before I get to work: is there anything I should know about modeling / painting metal as opposed to plastic?

# ? Dec 31, 2009 21:29

Aranan: May 21, 2007; Release the Kraken

Kestral posted:

My Warstore order finally arrived after being lost in the mail since Thanksgiving, bringing me a Hive Tyrant and Lictor kit. I've never worked with metal before, so I thought I'd inquire here before I get to work: is there anything I should know about modeling / painting metal as opposed to plastic?

I don't know those two models specifically, but you might need to do some pinning. I posted something about pinning a few pages back on this thread.

[edit]

Aranan posted:

http://archive.brushthralls.com/modelling/pinning.html
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/239928.page

I use the Citadel Hobby Drill, but that's certainly not the only option. In fact, it looks like PP sells a similar drill that comes with a bunch of brass rod that matches the drill bits for less than what GW asks.

You can use a bunch of different stuff for pinning materials. Brass rod, paperclips, floral wire, steel wire, etc. I know I'm a P3 whore, but they also sell little packs of brass rod and matching drill bits so you don't have to search for the perfect sized paperclip.

# ? Dec 31, 2009 21:40

Fyrbrand: Dec 30, 2002; Grimey Drawer

White primer can go to hell.

# ? Jan 1, 2010 04:59

Iron Squid: Nov 23, 2005; by Ozmaugh

Fyrbrand posted:

White primer can go to hell.

Thinking about going grey myself, because I always seem to have the wrong color.

# ? Jan 1, 2010 05:07

Blade_of_tyshalle: Jul 12, 2009; If you think that, along the way, you're not going to fail... you're blind.

There's no one I've ever met, no matter how successful they are, who hasn't said they had their failures along the way.

Just be mindful of how grey the primer is, and what you've primed already. Some brands are fairly similar to the plastic colour, so it can be tricky to tell how well you've covered.

# ? Jan 1, 2010 05:15

bhsman: Feb 10, 2008; by exmarx

Grey primer (gesso) + 2 coats of Blood Red was usually good enough for me.

# ? Jan 1, 2010 05:54

PaintVagrant: Apr 13, 2007; ~ the ultimate driving machine ~

Fyrbrand posted:

White primer can go to hell.

did you ever get that worked out? did you shake then stir?

# ? Jan 1, 2010 08:27

Morham: Jun 4, 2007

Took a couple more photos, I'm a pretty bad photographer but I guess practice makes perfect so I'm sure I'll get better. This is the same knight from before but I took the other side and a close up of the face. I've noticed some little splodges of paint that shouldn't be there since I took these, and also the fact that my models are covered in dust.

But enough excuses, I'm pretty happy with this guy IRL, but my painting has definately improved since I did him. Its pretty sunny today so I could probably take some more pictures later...anyway thoughts?

# ? Jan 1, 2010 14:46

Fyrbrand: Dec 30, 2002; Grimey Drawer

PaintVagrant posted:

did you ever get that worked out? did you shake then stir?

I did shake30/stir30 for about 3 minutes, waited until it was a little cooler, and sprayed lighter coats from a little farther. Still totally skunked. I guess I got a bad can. It's not old though- the lgs just started stocking the stuff.

# ? Jan 1, 2010 15:58

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# ? Apr 25, 2024 06:13

GoodBee: Apr 8, 2004

berzerkmonkey posted:

Has anyone used the P3 brushes? I ordered the W&N Series 7 miniature brushes, but I think I should have also picked up some regular #1 and #2 Series 7 brushes. I was wondering if the P3 brushes are any good, or if they are the normal cheap brushes everyone else offers.

I like the P3 brushes better than the similar priced brushes I can get at an art store. I hate the Army Painter brushes for the most part. I think they make a good tank brush, but I don't paint tanks so I'm not positive. I picked up some W&N Series 7 miniature brushes a while back, planning to use them when my cheaper brushes wore out but I've gotten used to using bigger brush for everything. It's really just the point of the brush that matters.

berzerkmonkey posted:

Also, has anyone tried the Army Painter Red? I was wondering if it was similar to any existing GW or Vallejo paints.

I haven't worked with it but I've seen it in use. All of the Army Painter sprays match a GW color pretty much exactly. They seem to match about as well as any two pots of GW match each other. I think the Red is either Blood Red or a step darker. I'm not remembering my GW reds right now.

I know the Greenskin Green matches GW Snot Green. If you want me to double check what color the Red matches, I can.

# ? Jan 1, 2010 16:30

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Miniature Painting/Sculpting/Modelling Megathread (Shut up and use Simple Green)

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