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CyberLord XP posted:Just got a bunch of VGC inks. Do I need to water them down at all? They are basically extra heavy washes right? Where do you guys tend to use them? I tend to use them 1:1 with water, replacing one drop of water for future floor polish but even then that's still a pretty strong wash. Give it a whizz and try a few testers out before you dive into painting anything worth $$$. I used the dark green ink and then sepia ink, straight from the bottle, on a white undercoat as a base to paint deathguard and they came out fairly grungy looking. edit: hurr, just checked the thread in question on EOW and I already posted pics of the deathguard I painted on there 
enri fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Jan 3, 2010 |
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Jan 3, 2010 01:04
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 04:28 |
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Lazy EOW crosspost of completed stormboy mob. These three were finished a few weeks back but never got posted:  These have been done over the past few days:   This is the whole mob: 
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Jan 3, 2010 01:53
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Hmm, just tried that out and the sepia ink completely covered over the dark green. I think I'll try another model using the GW sepia wash or a watered down vgc wash. The vgc one was really heavy.
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Jan 3, 2010 01:56
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LewdMonocle posted:Morham, as fluff goes, your model REALLY upsets me. He looks down-trodden, demoralized, and ragged. A breat knight would never go to battle in that condition. (or maybe he's on his final charge?) I love bretonnians, I hate their fluff. Their knights in the fluff are up themselves...I want my knights to be gritty. You can't go crusading and expect to keep your armour and equipment pristine, he has a men at arms shield probably cos his broke and he just got someone to paint his insignia on it... The theme I was going for was a crusade, like the one's into the border princes and khemri (I think) mentioned in the book. An army that has no home, but spear fronts attacks into hostile land...knights on the frontier and beyond. Knights who won't charge an enemy because their barding might get dirty have no place in my army....they are without honour or courage! [end mighty speech] and I will take your advice and chop that bit of grass off...I have nothing to base them with at the moment but I'll probably go for a sort of gravel, grassy tuft look or something. (your point about a final charge might be valid my knights die alot against my dads Warriors of Chaos  )
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Jan 3, 2010 02:12
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I was going to use them for https://www.mercsminis.com and an Inquistor model. I'm in the US, if that's a deal breaker, that's cool.
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Jan 3, 2010 03:13
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people posted:Sit up straighter! Did this. It worked, managed to sit through fifteen white robes in one shot. I feel retarded for not just sitting up straight. Thanks, SA/D/G/TG/TGD! 
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Jan 3, 2010 04:41
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Shallow your orks are pretty much much my favorite but if I could offer some criticism it would be that your bases are a bit bland for those awesome models. I think you need to start with a darker base coat and use more contrasting colors when your drybrush. I'd also suggest static grass for some color but that probably wouldn't fit the urban scheme you seem to have there. Edit: Anyone here care to recommend a white primer other than Army Painter? Waste of  that was.
Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Jan 3, 2010 |
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Jan 3, 2010 05:09
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Duplicolor Sandable White Auto Primer is what I use. Here's a range of opinions on it, ranging from the great satan to aerosol sex: http://www.privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?t=915 MasterSlowPoke fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Jan 3, 2010 |
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Jan 3, 2010 05:59
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Thats a bummer it didnt work out, my colored army painter sprays never skunked once. Did you stir the can and all that jazz?
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Jan 3, 2010 06:01
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Yeah I stirred the poo poo out of it all three times I tried it, no dice. I've gotten pretty pro at priming in this lovely humidity down here so I'm gonna tell myself it's the paint, not me. MSP, I'll give that a shot, thanks. I really don't want to resort to buying GW's stuff if I can help it.
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Jan 3, 2010 06:47
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I'm borrowing a buddy's GW sand, but it really feels to me like they grains of sand are too large. Does The Home Depot have sand I can use?
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Jan 3, 2010 07:43
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Anphrax posted:I'm borrowing a buddy's GW sand, but it really feels to me like they grains of sand are too large. Does The Home Depot have sand I can use? Salt.
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Jan 3, 2010 09:40
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LewdMonocle posted:Combaticus, can you expand more on your trukk project? i.e. what thickness plasticard, what type of glue, was it freehand, how did you make the wheels? More, more, more! The trukk is for a GorkaMorka gang. It's freehand, the only thing I've sketched out for it so far were the front, to make sure the wheel-holes and the angle of the hood were right. The card varies between 0.5 mm, 1.0 mm and 1.5 mm. I've cheated with the wheels and used caps from juice boxes. And it's all glued together with loctite super attak glue. Don't really know what else to tell you, like I said it's for GorkaMorka, so it's not really as big as the new ork trukks from gw, it's about the size of an ork buggy. I started building it because I wanted to see what I could do with plasticard.
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Jan 3, 2010 10:30
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Broken Loose posted:Salt. Have you used salt before? The things warhams come up with... I would have never thought about using salt! Bah! Thank you  I did try the GW sand, and it didn't come out too bad 
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Jan 3, 2010 10:36
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Fyrbrand posted:Shallow your orks are pretty much much my favorite but if I could offer some criticism it would be that your bases are a bit bland for those awesome models. I think you need to start with a darker base coat and use more contrasting colors when your drybrush. I'd also suggest static grass for some color but that probably wouldn't fit the urban scheme you seem to have there. I think you're probably right and there's two main areas I'm going wrong in. The base coat is Adeptus Battlegrey, which is the darkest shade GW do. It's the colour I used when I started the army, and has been used throughout for consistency. A few of my more recent models have ended up randomly using VMC Black Grey which is a touch darker, and those do look better. When I can face repainting 60-odd bases it I should probably go back and try a thickish wash of that and redrybrushing. The other main issue is that I don't do enough to pick out the 'hero' rocks and rubble on most bases (compared to the rusty debris which I'm generally very happy with). Usually a put a very subtle greenish/brownish-grey wash on them so they're a different colour to the surrounds, and I think those need to be stronger in colour and density because I do it before the drybrushing so the colour gets dulled even more. I probably should do some grass, some of the bases for my (still) incomplete deffkoptas use grass so it would fit in fine with the overall scheme.
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Jan 3, 2010 14:43
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Good thing these clown pants don't have a zipper. Check out my sweet tat. I got it coz I love my job: executing "criminals" for the Guild.  Wearing a pot-bellied stove is kind of tiring, though. 
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Jan 3, 2010 14:53
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Anphrax posted:Have you used salt before? The things warhams come up with... I would have never thought about using salt! Bah! Thank you I use my leftover salt I had from when I salt-dipped my termagants' tails back in 2008. It's not like I'm going to eat it with the burns and melted plastic and all.
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Jan 3, 2010 15:20
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Cakefool posted:Well I'd have to buy some 30mm, I don't have any standing by. I'm in the UK for p&p, they could go large letter so 50p upwards. Say £5 + p&p? Do you have any particular models in mind for them? e.g. are perfectly flat bases a requirement? Feeple, I think this got lost at the end of the last page - still interested? Another Goon has got in touch so I was going to order some bases & get started.
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Jan 3, 2010 15:26
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CyberLord XP posted:Hmm, just tried that out and the sepia ink completely covered over the dark green. I think I'll try another model using the GW sepia wash or a watered down vgc wash. The vgc one was really heavy. 2x washes of black green ink then a coat of GW sepia worked well. I may try the VGC sepia after a double coat of black green later.
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Jan 3, 2010 15:47
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Cakefool posted:I'd have to make new ones with an eye to casting them, these are basically composed of voids & undercuts. I could knock out about 5 an hour this way if I didn't mind them being a little repetitive. A bit late, but the ones you have now can be altered. All you have to do is put in caps to the empty spaces, something like green stuff or Apoxie Sculpt would work. My only concern with doing this is that it might ruin some of the effect of depth that the bases have.
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Jan 3, 2010 19:56
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Ok, so i'm not as happy with the rider as i was with the dragon, its harder to do more intricate details and what not. Still need to do some highlights and what not but its not 'that' bad is it?    Also, the paint is thinned, just looks thick with the flash, i'll get some real pictures done once it's all finished.
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Jan 3, 2010 20:15
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Sole.Sushi posted:A bit late, but the ones you have now can be altered. All you have to do is put in caps to the empty spaces, something like green stuff or Apoxie Sculpt would work. My only concern with doing this is that it might ruin some of the effect of depth that the bases have. I thought that might be a viable idea, I've no experience with casting however & was uncertain how deep an undercut I could get away with. A goon is paying me to make 32 bases and honestly I think I can knock the lot out pretty quickly.
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Jan 3, 2010 20:19
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dpack_1 posted:Ok, so i'm not as happy with the rider as i was with the dragon, its harder to do more intricate details and what not.
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Jan 3, 2010 22:53
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I've been wanting to try and airbrush the base coat on my models but seem to have run into a small problem. Got a decent new compressor for cheap and grabbed the citadel spray gun, but I can't seem to find a water filter anywhere in town. Michaels had some air brush supplies but no filter (At least I got 2 pounds of modeling sand for less than 5 bucks and a few other basing tools), and Canadian Tire's section was raped beyond help when I went down. Going to try a few other places but don't feel too lucky at this point, so I might just have to find one online. I don't have any experience with airbrushing yet, but if I try to just do a base coat without a filter can I expect it to be FUBARed?
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Jan 3, 2010 23:56
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Do I need to thin out gold paint, as well?
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Jan 4, 2010 05:32
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Cakefool posted:I thought that might be a viable idea, I've no experience with casting however & was uncertain how deep an undercut I could get away with. A goon is paying me to make 32 bases and honestly I think I can knock the lot out pretty quickly. If the idea still strikes you, whenever I get around to it, I intend to make resin casts of some of my slate bases. I'll do a photo tutorial about it, for the benefit of everyone that has been curious about resin casting.
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Jan 4, 2010 06:34
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Please do, I was thinking of starting a thread on EoW but it would have been a "Tell me about..." You should put these tutorials on the EoW Blog.
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Jan 4, 2010 07:05
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Meh. EoW has uses, but I'm an elitist prick, so I'll keep them all here for now. Nah, I'm sure I'll end up putting them up there some time or another. I'm just lazy.
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Jan 4, 2010 10:23
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So this afternoon I visited every dollar store in my city and couldn't find any Simple Green or LA's apparently its non existent in central new york, could someone either post the ingredients or a third option? I'm getting paint this Friday and would like to have some of my mini's cleaned and ready to paint by then.
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Jan 4, 2010 21:55
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Not sure if there are any bigbox retail stores in your area, but target/walmart/kmart have simple green. If you cant find it in the cleaning dept., look in the auto area.
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Jan 4, 2010 21:57
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How do you guys do fine detail work without paint going everywhere? When I was doing the gold trim to my Chaos Space Marines, I would wind up with gold going onto the black or red of the armor. I would retouch these spots with the appropriate colors, only to discover I got some of this paint back onto the gold. Repeat.
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Jan 4, 2010 22:16
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Iron Squid posted:How do you guys do fine detail work without paint going everywhere? When I was doing the gold trim to my Chaos Space Marines, I would wind up with gold going onto the black or red of the armor. I would retouch these spots with the appropriate colors, only to discover I got some of this paint back onto the gold. Practice. Also I think I read it here or maybe it's a quote I saw in some GW publication, but the gist of it was that mini painting is more about an ability to recognize and fix your mistakes rather than an natural talent or whatever (although obviously that helps). Maybe someone without a lovely memory can provide said quote.
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Jan 4, 2010 22:55
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Practice, drink far less caffeinated drinks, practice, relax and breathe slowly, practice, sit comfortably, practice, brace your hands against each other and the table or your chest, practice. If you haven't painted for a while, give it a day or so to get your brush control back before you do anything fiddly. Also you can sometimes get a fresh paint splurge off with a damp brush if you deal with it Right loving Now when it's wet, I use a flat hog bristle brush for it an it works maybe half the time, but be careful you don't take existing dry layers off, especially on metal minis! Prevention is better than cure though.
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Jan 4, 2010 23:47
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Practice, as everyone said, and accept that your results wont be amazing for a while. Also, make sure your brushes are in good shape and you are using a size that works for what youre trying to do...a number 1 or 0 is a good brush to use for basecoating/basic blocking in. That same number 1 is a bit too large for really tiny highlights or details, however.
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Jan 5, 2010 00:14
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MSP: (Or anyone else for that matter) Is your duplicolor white spray a little "runny" and/or come out very thin at first? I picked some up and just tried it. My usual quick sprays back and forth weren't really doing anything, and the only way to really get any paint on there was to spray it directly for a second or two. Also the paint that did get on there was sort of runny and pooling in places. The black duplicolor I got did none of those things, and actually worked pretty well. I'm also priming in much colder weather than I'm used to, as in below 60F, so maybe that's playing a role?
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Jan 5, 2010 00:19
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Shallow posted:drink far less caffeinated drinks As an added bonus, you won't dip your brush in the coffee mug right beside your water jar. (Every loving time!)
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Jan 5, 2010 00:43
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Duplicolor white goes on really thin. I usually just do a quick spray or two. It's not going to give perfect coverage, but when does white ever?
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Jan 5, 2010 00:53
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Jonny Nox posted:As an added bonus, you won't dip your brush in the coffee mug right beside your water jar. (Every loving time!) You ask for this by merely placing your rinse and your drink anywhere close to each other, dude. I keep my refreshments as far away on my desk as I can, in tall glasses. I had a cat years ago who drank my rinse water. He loved the taste of Citadel Colour so much, he'd lick the paint residue out of the dish if I forgot to dump it and let it evaporate.  He died of kidney failure. I really hope it wasn't related.
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Jan 5, 2010 01:24
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I put my rinse water in a dish instead of a cup and have never had a problem not drinking it!
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Jan 5, 2010 01:27
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 04:28 |
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No one asked for it, but you're gonna get it anyways!  A photo tutorial for doing heavy cloth--things like burlap and leather, as well as some technique for getting smooth finishes with your green stuff, something I stumbled upon quite by accident.  This is the model I intend to put a cloak on. It's the Black Templar's Emperor's Champion model, but with a combi-melta rather than a sword; I'll be using him as a sternguard. As I was cutting down one of the black ark corsair cloaks to fit onto the model, I realized that it wasn't going to fit, so I decided to do a green stuff cloak instead.  Another photo from another angle. Now, some of you who know me will ask why I'm using green stuff over ProCreate for this application, and for one simple reason: Green stuff has a habit of remaining thicker, and stiffer, while being worked and cured. For the exact same reason it doesn't take to fine details as readily as ProCreate, it works perfectly for this project.  In order to make the cloak, I needed a flat, smooth piece of green stuff. By accident, I discovered that a plastic zip-top bag (zip-loc, etc.) doesn't stick to epoxy for whatever reason. What I did here was cut the bag apart, added a bit of water, and folded the plastic over the green stuff. Pressing down with just my fingers, I pressed out the green stuff into a flat, perfectly smooth section.  Here, I've affixed the green stuff to the model, moving across the shoulder of the right arm, and wrapping it about to the left arm. I've let the cloak fall naturally at first, then pulled back the bottom half a bit to give it a more dynamic look.  Here is the view from the front. I decided to mold the cloak into the hand of the model, as if he were grabbing it, adding another dynamic touch. I was careful to keep the thumb of the model exposed, as one would naturally grip cloth with the thumb on top.  Here is the cloak once it cured. As you can see, it's still really quite smooth. You can also see the bend I put into it along the right side, to act as a guide for the folds I added later.  Another angle, which shows off the bend in the cloak rather well. I achieved this by letting the green stuff cure atop a rounded surface, with a sheet of zip-top bag between the green stuff and the prop.  A different sternguard model that I finished. If you look at the cloak, you'll notice the edges aren't rounded, but jagged and torn, so to replicate that...  ... I took a sharp hobby knife and cut in some jagged edges. I first used a hand drill to carefully punch holes into the cloak and basically connected the dots. If you look at the pre-made cloak once more, you'll see more dramatic and jagged folds along the top, which I wanted to replicate.  To do so, what I did was added a thin line of green stuff, flattened it out, and sort of pulled sections of it down and out to make jagged edges. I then worked a bladed tool to emphasize the lines. I also filled out the cloak a bit around the back, adding green stuff and blending it into the cured product. You'll notice the edges of the folds aren't as crisp, and that I lost a bit of the smooth finish. Once the folds cure, I'll cut into them as I did with the bottom of the cloak, and as I will be putting scales onto the cloak later, I actually don't want too much smooth surface. That's about all that I have for now, as the epoxy is still curing. But, once I'm done I'll post photos of the finished product. Coming Soon: mold making and resin casting!
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Jan 5, 2010 01:30
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