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Kenshin posted:I'm going to give it a few days to make sure it's not residue, but I did drive it 400 miles yesterday and it was still smelling and there was oil smoke when I opened up the hood at the end of the drive (though not as strongly as before I first did the gasket swap). Thinking about it, the M52 valve cover is designed like that, the M50 isn't, my mistake. (I'm used to my M50). When I put mine back on I put all the nuts on finger tight at first. Then, I'll try to shake the valve cover a little bit, just to see how it's moving and try to position it/make it sit better. Then I tighten the middle nut down to maybe 3-5 ft-lb (I don't use a torque wrench for this as I've done it enough in the past to just go by feel, you SHOULD use one, it is tough to guess what the torque is with those little rubber donuts on there, get a 1/4" torque wrench that goes from 0-20 foot pounds or so, just for this job). Do the same to each nut starting in the center and going out in a criss-cross pattern alternating from intake to exhaust side. I would make an MSPaint to illustrate, but Windows 7 seems to have made Paint more advanced and now I have no idea how to work it and no desire to learn. The only places, on a good head, where you need RTV are in those little half moon things and where front timing cover bolts to the head. You can put a bead of RTV all the way around as a ghetto stop gap (or really just on the exhaust side, that's the side that leaks). It will work for a while, but it is by no means a permanent solution. If the head is warped you'll need to source a good head or get yours machined. If I were you, and the oil leak isn't that bad, I would take it apart once more and put it back together. Make sure you get all oil residue off the mating surfaces. Try to clean the gasket off, too, otherwise the oil residue on it will not play well with the RTV and you'll get leaks. Just take your time, make sure everything is clean and torqued properly. If it leaks after that, personally, I'd just live with it. If you have the cash for headwork, and that turns out to be the issue, then have at it, but it is not a fault that will keep you from driving the car. Honestly, more BMW I6s leak oil from the exhaust side than don't, so, yeah...
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Jan 4, 2010 20:27
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Come to think of it, all of the bmws I and my family has (my dad bought his recent cars on my recommendation) all consume oil despite being relatively new and having around 110k, it goes at about a quart every 2-3 months or so, i don't know if it's just bad luck or whether the m52/54s are prone to oil consumption (they shouldn't be).
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Jan 4, 2010 20:30
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My E30 started overheating last week. While stopped, the gauge would slowly creep up to just above 1/2 mark (which is the normal level). While moving it doesn't go up anymore (and will go back to 1/2 as long as the heater was on full). Yesterday I let it run up to normal temp while sitting in the garage and it would not overheat! If I cranked the heat on full it would actually go below 1/2 mark. The fan clutch/thermostat/water pump are all less than 2yr old. The hose circled here was ice cold for what seemed like a very long time after getting to operating temp (5min maybe?)  Also, this piece was tilted up a bit enough that I could hear hissing until I put it back into place. Could that have anything to do with this? I took that screw sticking out from another manifold I have but that's as far as it will go in, def not the correct length... 
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Jan 4, 2010 20:48
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Have you tried replacing the gauge temp sensor? The last time I thought I was overheating it turned out to be that. Keep in mind there's two different temp sensors there -- if I remember correctly the blue/two prong one feeds to the ECU, the brown one prong connector should feed to the temp gauge. Should be part #12 62 1 710 512
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Jan 4, 2010 21:03
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:The only places, on a good head, where you need RTV are in those little half moon things and where front timing cover bolts to the head. You can put a bead of RTV all the way around as a ghetto stop gap (or really just on the exhaust side, that's the side that leaks). It will work for a while, but it is by no means a permanent solution. I really want to get this figured out, because though it's minor enough now that it won't be a huge deal during the summer with the top down, it's kinda embarrassing when I have girls I'm dating in the car having it smell like burnt oil at stoplights 
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Jan 4, 2010 21:04
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Jorsh posted:Have you tried replacing the gauge temp sensor? The last time I thought I was overheating it turned out to be that. Keep in mind there's two different temp sensors there -- if I remember correctly the blue/two prong one feeds to the ECU, the brown one prong connector should feed to the temp gauge. Should be part #12 62 1 710 512 I don't remember replacing that one, I might have a spare sitting around from the spare engine...thanks for the idea, I'll give that a shot!
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Jan 4, 2010 21:11
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Kenshin posted:Whoa whoa, wait a moment--do I need to put RTV all the way around the half-moon things? I put a thin even layer of RTV with my fingers on every mating surface when I did mine and it doesn't leak a bit. Sounds like it could help.
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Jan 4, 2010 23:27
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Kenshin posted:Whoa whoa, wait a moment--do I need to put RTV all the way around the half-moon things? My buddy thought it should only be on the sharp corners on them. Maybe that's what's doing it! I put a generous amount on my finger and rub it all up in those half moons. I use more around the sharp corners, but I still put a nice thin layer down in the trough. If for no other reason than it helps seat the gasket on the M50.
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Jan 4, 2010 23:41
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Lowclock posted:I put a thin even layer of RTV with my fingers on every mating surface when I did mine and it doesn't leak a bit. Sounds like it could help. Doctor Grape Ape posted:I put a generous amount on my finger and rub it all up in those half moons. I use more around the sharp corners, but I still put a nice thin layer down in the trough. If for no other reason than it helps seat the gasket on the M50.
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Jan 4, 2010 23:47
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As I was leaving a store a few minutes ago, I walked up to my 325i, and pressed the open button on my remote, and the doors didn't open. The key worked in the door, but once inside, the central lock button wouldn't open them. I could lock them, but not open them. I was about five minutes from the dealer, so I brought the car in. I did some research (google) when I got home and found: http://www.bmwtis.com/tsb/bulletins/bulletin_graphic_temp/B511907g.htm Interesting, seems to be a design flaw. Hopefully they can fix it tomorrow. Also, my squirters are not working, even though the tank is full. I hear the whirring of the motor, but no juice. I'll have them address that too. I love the "no service cost" thing.
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Jan 5, 2010 02:27
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What's your guys consensus on the styling of the new F10? I think it looks great personally (like a smaller 7) , but apparently that is the same reason so many people on the BMW boards hate it. I think the E60 looks dated in comparison. Not that the E60 is a bad looking car, though.
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Jan 5, 2010 17:11
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I'm installing a new blower motor in my E36, and the metal strap holding the motor in place won't go back on. I've tried pushing with just about everything, even resorted to hitting it with a hammer, and it just will not go on. How in the hell do I get this motor locked in? edit: Nvm, tried vice grips again and that worked. Vice grips are a gift of the gods. edit: Oh my god gently caress YOU PLASTIC COVERS! clredwolf fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Jan 5, 2010 |
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Jan 5, 2010 17:18
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clredwolf posted:edit: Nvm, tried vice grips again and that worked. Vice grips are a gift of the gods. Yes. I once got a lug lock removed with vice grips.
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Jan 5, 2010 17:54
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The Jizzer posted:What's your guys consensus on the styling of the new F10? I think it looks great personally (like a smaller 7) , but apparently that is the same reason so many people on the BMW boards hate it. I think the E60 looks dated in comparison. Not that the E60 is a bad looking car, though. I don't mind the E60, but the F10 is a notable improvement IMO. I can't explain really why, but it just seems more like what a BMW should be.
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Jan 5, 2010 21:31
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wolrah posted:I don't mind the E60, but the F10 is a notable improvement IMO. I can't explain really why, but it just seems more like what a BMW should be. I agree, I like how they toned down the headlights. It was too "dame-edna"ish before. It would be better if they went back to the kidney grilles being part of the hood like they were in the E39/E46, it kept the front looking really clean without a line across it. But I wouldn't be surprised if there was some actual reason for abandoning that design.
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Jan 5, 2010 21:42
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wolrah posted:I don't mind the E60, but the F10 is a notable improvement IMO. I can't explain really why, but it just seems more like what a BMW should be. I agree. All the pictures I've seen make it look fantastic. I still don't like the interiors of modern BMWs, though. not enough buttons I think. drat idrive. The hood's got some weird-rear end crap going on though. Like a flamboyant double-ridge or something. Not sure if I like that, but I'd have to see one in person.
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Jan 5, 2010 21:46
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I drove my car for a bit today and it wouldn't overheat! The only two problems I still have are the gauge going down when I turn the heat on full, and the coolant hose (seen in my other post above) was still ice cold when I parked my car after driving. Thermostat maybe?
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Jan 5, 2010 21:55
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I am looking at picking up an E30 fairly soon but I don't like the look of the stock ride height. I would love to lower it but the sidewalk leading into my driveway is an issue. My house is on a hill and my garage and house sits below the sidewalk elevation. When pulling into my driveway, it immediately pitches downward in order to allow access to the garage. Cars that are too low to the ground will easy scrape the bottom of their cars on the sidewalk (which is the highest point) when pulling into my driveway. I did some measuring last night on my wife's 135i with stock suspension. She doesn't scrape the sidewalk when she drives straight in, but does scrape when I am in the car. The stock ride height on the 135 is 5" and from the research I did last night, it matches the E30 stock ride height. The E30 wheelbase is shorter than the 135 by about 4 inches, but that only buys me a fraction of an inch when clearing the sidewalk. I am not a big fan of the stance of the car running stock, so does anyone have suggestions on a combination that will provide the car with an aggressive stance without lowering the ground clearance? I was thinking that I could get 16 or 17 inch wheels (the E30s stock rims are 14" and stock tires are 195/65/14) and something like a 215/40/16 or 17 tire and still be able to get over the sidewalk. Thoughts?
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Jan 5, 2010 23:05
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two_beer_bishes posted:I drove my car for a bit today and it wouldn't overheat! That cold hose circled is connected directly to the thermostat housing. After I mangled the radiator I replaced the thermostat housing and coolant temp. sensor at the same time. Once you drain the coolant (you'll have to drain it from the radiator AND the block for the temp. sensor) it is mabye 20 minutes work. Disconnect the hoses, pop off the 3 hex bolts holding the housing, remove+replace the thermostat (and o-ring) and put it back on. Temp. sensor is even more braindead of a repair. The worst part was draining the coolant from the block, that creates a ridiculous mess of the engine bay.
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Jan 5, 2010 23:10
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Crustashio posted:The worst part was draining the coolant from the block, that creates a ridiculous mess of the engine bay. This. Good luck doing it without getting a facefull of coolant.
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Jan 5, 2010 23:19
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I've done it a couple times before, I'm pretty good at dodging the stuff as it pours out...
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Jan 5, 2010 23:23
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Anyone have a decent pictoral on cleaning the ICV for the M50? All the guides I find online are for the 4-cyl or don't have pics. Also, what are those yellow boxes on either side of the engine bay? I thought they were headlight relays but they don't appear to go to the headlights (or be relays).
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Jan 5, 2010 23:45
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revmoo posted:Anyone have a decent pictoral on cleaning the ICV for the M50? All the guides I find online are for the 4-cyl or don't have pics. I'm curious about both of these as well.
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Jan 6, 2010 00:20
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Casper 29 posted:I am looking at picking up an E30 fairly soon but I don't like the look of the stock ride height. I would love to lower it but the sidewalk leading into my driveway is an issue. I sure hope you like cracked oil pans cause thats what you're gonna get if you lower it.
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Jan 6, 2010 01:17
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flublandDrussiavelt posted:I sure hope you like cracked oil pans cause thats what you're gonna get if you lower it. I don't want to lower it because of cracking the oil pan, or potentially dragging the middle of the car across the sidewalk, but I would like run something different than stock rims and tires. I am looking for guidance on a combination of rims and tire sizes that will keep the ride height at 5".
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Jan 6, 2010 01:28
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Casper 29 posted:I don't want to lower it because of cracking the oil pan, or potentially dragging the middle of the car across the sidewalk, but I would like run something different than stock rims and tires. I am looking for guidance on a combination of rims and tire sizes that will keep the ride height at 5". It doesn't quite work like that. New wheel/tire combos should not change in outer diameter, otherwise you will effectively change the gearing of the car (if only slightly). If you just want new wheels put the car into https://www.tirerack.com and pick your new wheels. Just lower the car and take your driveway at an angle. The M20 doesn't seem to crack its pan as much as the M42, more reason to get a 6cyl car.
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Jan 6, 2010 01:48
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Just lower the car and take your driveway at an angle. Werd. Also, consider making wood ramps that fit your driveway angle. Seriously, it's a jigsaw, some plywood, and a sunny winter afternoon. These can also serve as concrete forms should you decide to make them permanent. Sterndotstern fucked around with this message at 14:34 on Jan 6, 2010 |
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Jan 6, 2010 02:19
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Buy a skidpan and an extra iS lip.
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Jan 6, 2010 02:45
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Comedy option - airbag suspension
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Jan 6, 2010 02:58
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Casper 29 posted:I don't want to lower it because of cracking the oil pan, or potentially dragging the middle of the car across the sidewalk, but I would like run something different than stock rims and tires. I am looking for guidance on a combination of rims and tire sizes that will keep the ride height at 5". My friend bought some alpina springs and shocks for his 318is which is about as quality as you're going to get with lowering kits and regretted it because the car couldn't handle even small bumps on the road and had that lowered suspension jitter. The stance looked pretty good though, personally I don't see anything wrong with the stock ride height, it looks dignified to me, e30s were never a low slung sports car anyway.
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Jan 6, 2010 03:07
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E30 M3 springs + Bilstein HD's and don't put 17's on it you goon.
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Jan 6, 2010 04:11
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Sterndotstern posted:Werd. Also, consider making wood ramps that fit your driveway angle. Seriously, it's a jigsaw, some plywood, and a sunny winter afternoon. I just might do that. When I bring it home I am going to take my time on the drive to see if I can angle it over. If not, it's time to build a ramp. Jorsh posted:E30 M3 springs + Bilstein HD's and don't put 17's on it you goon. Aye aye captain.
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Jan 6, 2010 05:17
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New to the club here. I just bought a 2001 330ci and am so far quite happy with it. Unfortunately, its stereo head unit (Business CD) display is very screwed up. There is a lot of pixelation, making the display unreadable. I've been searching online and haven't found much info on this. If anyone knows of a solution to this, please let me know. If replacing the unit is the only option, where should I look to buy one? eBay? I'd prefer to keep the stock look, but may end up with an aftermarket solution if I can't find a decent price on an OEM unit. Any advice?
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Jan 6, 2010 08:10
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cendien posted:New to the club here. I just bought a 2001 330ci and am so far quite happy with it. Unfortunately, its stereo head unit (Business CD) display is very screwed up. There is a lot of pixelation, making the display unreadable. I've been searching online and haven't found much info on this.
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Jan 6, 2010 16:46
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I'm going to order my 120d M sport coupe tomorrow. Are there any specific addons I should get? I was thinking bump up to 18" alloys and get a leather interior purely for vanity. I also can't decide between Alpine White, Black Sapphire or Sedona Red. Black seems the easy option of the three.
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Jan 6, 2010 23:14
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Palace of Lies posted:I'm going to order my 120d M sport coupe tomorrow. Are there any specific addons I should get? I was thinking bump up to 18" alloys and get a leather interior purely for vanity. I also can't decide between Alpine White, Black Sapphire or Sedona Red. Black seems the easy option of the three. BMW's white is great, but I think the bigger cars look better with that color (e.g. X5). There's never anything bad to say about black. Except that it's impossible to keep clean / avoid scratches. Found a thread full of Sedona Red 1-series. That isn't bad either. I'd narrow it down to black or red.
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Jan 7, 2010 00:42
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wow, the red is looking really eye catching there. They don't have red at the dealership I'm going to so I can't even see it in person. Red is at cost though, black is free 
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Jan 7, 2010 01:04
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I just did a little reading on the 1 series. What makes this car rather popular to some of you? It has grown on me a little bit but the styling is pretty different. Sort of resembles an E46 with big headlights. I'm not picking on anyone's taste or trying to offend, They're nice. Is it just their size and weight distribution? Or is it sort of like people who like Volvo wagons, it's just a preference for some people? When it first came out I was ignorant and just thought it was BMW just trying to sell BMW badges to people but the price is close to a 3 series. After a little research I noticed you can get them with 300hp... seems like a quality fast car for the price that could track well. Realistically I'm probably asking "Why do some people like ketchup and some like mustard?" VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Jan 7, 2010 |
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Jan 7, 2010 01:52
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It is smaller, lighter, faster, and sportier than a 3 series. Much like how a 3 series is smaller, lighter, faster, and sportier than a 5 series. Price wise, the most expensive 1 series is more expensive than the cheapest 3, the most expensive 3 series is more expensive than the cheapest 5 series. The cars basically up sell themselves. You can also just find the balance of "class" and performance that is right for you.... and you'll most certainly find it because they offer every combination. For most of their customers: Want the sportiest BMW under $50k? 135i Want the most up scale/luxury BMW under $50k? 528i Something in between? The entire 3 series range can accommodate you. Then they get a bunch of new feet in the door with the 128i, and offer a lot more luxury and prestige above $50k.
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Jan 7, 2010 06:33
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Casper 29 posted:the car with an aggressive stance without lowering the ground clearance? Just out of curiosity, what exactly does "stance" mean? Is it talking about the angle the chassis is at compared to horizontal? Or the height of the chassis above the ground? Or the styling of the headlamps? or the styling of the rims? or the size of the rims? And what kind of a stance is "aggressive"? i.e. higher? lower? more tilted forwards? more tilted back? slanted headlamps? big rims? Or is "aggressive" a purely subjective term, where you look at a car and the first thing that comes into your mind is that car is a tank that probably eats smaller cars for breakfast? ljw1004 fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Jan 7, 2010 |
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Jan 7, 2010 20:54
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