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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:I had a cat years ago who drank my rinse water. He loved the taste of Citadel Colour so much, he'd lick the paint residue out of the dish if I forgot to dump it and let it evaporate. I have some very bad news for you.
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Jan 5, 2010 03:32
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Broken Loose posted:I have some very bad news for you. 
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Jan 5, 2010 04:11
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Sole, I love the tutorials you post. Thanks.
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Jan 5, 2010 05:22
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^^^^ No problem. I'll keep 'em coming. wildfire1 posted:You have to be kidding Chances are, no. Acrylics are mostly non-toxic, but what is non-toxic to a human doesn't mean it's non-toxic to animals. Add to the fact that cats have smaller kidneys, shorter life-spans and faster blood circulation... Well, uh. 
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Jan 5, 2010 05:56
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Sole.Sushi posted:Chances are, no. Acrylics are mostly non-toxic, but what is non-toxic to a human doesn't mean it's non-toxic to animals. Add to the fact that cats have smaller kidneys, shorter life-spans and faster blood circulation... Well, uh. I actually emailed GW when I started back up last year and got the MSDS for their paint, but never bothered to take it to a vet. I just keep my current cat as far away as possible, to be safe. I instead have to worry about current kitty stealing the Skaven off my desk. v  v
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Jan 5, 2010 13:46
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Jonny Nox posted:As an added bonus, you won't dip your brush in the coffee mug right beside your water jar. (Every loving time!) I've never managed to do this, I have on occasion almost drunk from my water pot though. Although given the fact that I use a pint glass as my water pot, I guess it serves me right for being stupid enough to put another pint glass right next to it with my drink in it.
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Jan 5, 2010 15:35
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Just for the record: Acrylics are mostly safe to inhale...they dont have nasty fumes like solvent based paints/etc. That being said, they use the same pigments that oils use, and cadmium/cobalt/etc. are just as poisonous in an acrylic as they are in any other type of paint...so dont ingest them. Safe: spiling them on your skin, not wearing a mask/gloves Not safe: spraying them w/ an airbrush and no mask, ingesting
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Jan 5, 2010 18:04
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Awesome. 
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Jan 5, 2010 18:23
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The good news is that most of the really toxic pigments are also really expensive, so chances are their isnt actual cadmium in GWs reds, for example. A 3 inch long tube of real cad red is like $15+ dollars, usually more (in terms of art paints) There are real metals in GWs metallics, and ingesting metals is never good
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Jan 5, 2010 18:42
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Sole.Sushi posted:Now, some of you who know me will ask why I'm using green stuff over ProCreate for this application, and for one simple reason: Green stuff has a habit of remaining thicker, and stiffer, while being worked and cured. For the exact same reason it doesn't take to fine details as readily as ProCreate, it works perfectly for this project. This is a really useful piece of information. I read your and someone elses earlier posts about the other types too. Now, if someone is just looking for a putty to fill gaps and not do any sculpting then you can't really go wrong with any of the putties?
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Jan 5, 2010 19:13
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Exemplar Cinerators Emboldened from the wounds inflicted by the impure, Exemplar Cinerators move ahead of their brothers in arms, the Bastions, to breach enemy ranks with flame and steel. Cinerators channel the agony of their wounds into holy rage and are armed with ancient blades and shields passed down from fallen Knights through the centuries. An unquenchable flame flickers across the blade, blazing white-hot when wielded in battle. Looks like actually useful Bastions 
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Jan 5, 2010 19:42
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I R SMART LIKE ROCK posted:Exemplar Cinerators hooooooly poo poo the new PP stuff is cool
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Jan 5, 2010 19:48
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I R SMART LIKE ROCK posted:Exemplar Cinerators And people laugh at 40K shoulder pads, yikes!
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Jan 5, 2010 20:15
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Indolent Bastard posted:And people laugh at 40K shoulder pads, yikes! Anyone who thinks 40k shoulder pads are bad has never seen Vlad's models.
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Jan 5, 2010 20:35
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I have a very old metallic blue citadel paint - I really, really like it and I want some more. But it turns out that GW don't do non-metal metalic paints anymore. What's the best way to make metallic colours now?
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Jan 5, 2010 20:47
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Furret Basket posted:But it turns out that GW don't do non-metal metalic paints anymore. What's the best way to make metallic colours now? Boltgun metal paint. Wash over the top with the relevant colours. I remember when they released those metallics back in the day - the purple one was awesome.
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Jan 5, 2010 20:50
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mithril silver basecoat 2 x (insert wash name here)
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Jan 5, 2010 20:58
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PV I tried your gold method and even with 3 washes of sepia it still didn't look right. Do you thin your washes or anything?
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Jan 5, 2010 21:01
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Rambling irrelevant grampa story follows. All this POISON PAINT stuff reminds me of why I moved from enamels to acrylics back in the day. This was some time in the 80s, when most people used enamels because all the minis were tin-lead alloy so even unsuitable types wouldn't melt them, reasonable brands like Airfix and Humbrol were available in pretty much every toy shop, and what the hell were acrylics anyway? There were no acrylics aimed at mini painters. So the young me (I guess around 10) is sat up in his bedroom dabbing away on orcs and knights from a collection of random manufacturers (Citadel, Ral Partha, Essex, Prince August...) with a collection of equally random matt and gloss paints, without using undercoats, and cleaning my brushes in an old jam jar full of turps or white spirit. This became increasingly murky until it got replaced after about 3 months when I could finally persuade mum or dad to get me a new bottle from the DIY shop. When the lid was on the turps jar I was probably harming myself by filing bases flat and inhaling powdered lead instead. I'd got into D&D and miniatures because of my cousin. A year older than me, he was an excellent mini painter and all round artist (he went on to art school and eventually became a tattoo artist at an acclaimed London studio). Anyway, sometime in our enamel painting heyday, my cousin had to have a horrible scouring and adenoid removal operation done to his nasal passages because of a chronic allergy to cat hair. Naturally, they gave away all their cats, and the specialists asked if there were any other potential irritants he was exposed to; Apparently, if you're allergic to anything, huffing white spirit is a bad idea. After very little research my aunt and uncle replaced all his enamels with Tamiya model paints. This started a kind of whirlwind of paint replacement by the parents of all the D&D kids in our area, because every single nerdy kid has to have some kind of sniffly allergy or other. Mine was household dust. Every D&D kid in the three main schools near our town suddenly went from years worth of accumulated enamel shades to a bare minimum set of unsuitable acrylics (primaries, black, white, green, brown, and metallics if you were lucky), and screw you if you wanted more colours, obviously you don't need them because the Tamiya pots are MUCH bigger. It did suck since Tamiya paint is really lovely to use on 25mm minis when there's no internet to shout at you about thinning. In retrospect it's also pretty hilarious since I think most Tamiya acrylic is in an alcohol-based medium anyway. If they'd really thought about it they should have got us off the lead-based minis too. Fortunately we got the first Citadel Colour releases a while after that, and Humbrol started doing their acrylics. Then Citadel started their plastics so I got to inhale glue fumes all the time. Awesome!
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Jan 5, 2010 21:15
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Danger - Octopus! posted:Boltgun metal paint. Wash over the top with the relevant colours. PaintVagrant posted:mithril silver basecoat Makes sense. Thanks.
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Jan 5, 2010 21:28
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Vallejo also has a 'gunmetal blue' in their model color line, which may or may not be similar to what you are looking for.
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Jan 5, 2010 21:51
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I can't believe how many Vallejo paints there are. What are they like compared to GW paints, since that's what I'm used to?
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Jan 5, 2010 22:24
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How can I make the horns on my Chaos Space Marines look good? I put down a coat of Bleached Bone, and was thinking of washing them with Devlan Mud, but I want to get some thoughts first.
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Jan 5, 2010 22:27
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Hey I finally got a camera so I was wondering if I could get some CC on my lizards. First here's what used to be a skink that I couldn't find a spare non-javelin arm for, but is now being used as a skink chief with cloak of feathers. It's my first real sculpting project, but I think I'm pretty satisfied with it I guess. It basically used the guide earlier in this thread, except I messed up and got really sloppy. I still have no idea how to paint this thing though. My skinks are black with yellow eyes and scales, and this guy is going to have a red crest, but I don't know what to do with his cloak. Any ideas?   Also, here are a few saurus I painted a while back. I know thin your paints, mold lines, drill your barrels or whatever...  A group shot.  I'm mostly satisfied with this one, but I think the eye needs a little something more.  Standard bearers are very top heavy. I really need to invest in some lead fishing weights.  I have no good excuse for this one. The eye is sloppy and as it turns out no amount of shining gold can hide a mechrite red slip-up.  I decided to make my champion stand out by just giving him a sword and giving his shield the same coloring as the scar-vet that will actually be leading them. Iyanden Darksun makes painting yellow worlds easier. No idea why his close leg looks so shiny. It's as dull as anything else and my webcam doesn't have flash. EDIT!: I'm not sure if I asked this in this thread or in the warhams thread, but does anybody know a good way to use the Lizardmen Stegadon kit to convert back and worth between an engine and skink chief on ancient? I have a feeling it will involve a lot of magnets, but it doesn't need to be a perfect conversion. If I can have an Engine of the gods and a kinda funny looking ancient stegadon, that works for me. Banannana fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Jan 5, 2010 |
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Jan 5, 2010 22:46
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Iron Squid posted:How can I make the horns on my Chaos Space Marines look good? I put down a coat of Bleached Bone, and was thinking of washing them with Devlan Mud, but I want to get some thoughts first. Black primer -> Denab Stone -> Devlan Mud wash -> Bleached Bone except in the recesses -> Skull White highlights. It feels like loving cheating, it's so easy. EDIT: Maybe take it easy on the Bone/White layers, depending on whether you want gritty/dirty horns or, well, bleached bones. Either way, Devlan Mud the poo poo out of those bad boys.
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Jan 5, 2010 23:03
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Bah, one last question. So I've been a gesso fangirl through and through for my priming needs, but as it turns out priming upwards of 40 skinks by hand is becoming less and less appealing. Basically, for reasons that are probably legal I have a lot of spray paint in my garage. Is this stuff any good for priming black, or should I dig through and see what other blacks I have? 
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Jan 5, 2010 23:10
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ANAmal.net posted:Black primer -> Denab Stone -> Devlan Mud wash -> Bleached Bone except in the recesses -> Skull White highlights. The horns are perfectly smooth, so there really aren't any places to highlight/recess. I've seen some horns where the base of the horns were a darker color than the rest, kinda faded into the rest of the horn. Any idea how this effect was achieved? Edit: Also I think I might wanna use red primer for the rest of my Chaos Space Marines. Anyone have a recommendation for red primer?
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Jan 5, 2010 23:14
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Fyrbrand posted:PV I tried your gold method and even with 3 washes of sepia it still didn't look right. Do you thin your washes or anything? Nope. What were you using it on? It works much better on smaller areas than large flat ones
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Jan 5, 2010 23:14
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That works great, thats the same krylon flat black everyone uses
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Jan 5, 2010 23:16
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Iron Squid posted:
Duplicolor has a rust red primer that may or may not work depending on how bright a red you're going for. PaintVagrant posted:Nope. What were you using it on? It works much better on smaller areas than large flat ones I tried it on the detailing near the blade on a saurus spear as well as the little bracelet thing on its spear arm. I'll see if I can get a pic of it later.
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Jan 5, 2010 23:19
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Army painter probably has a red, or you can try that montana art spray paint, which has a gorgeous red. Note that I havent tried the montana stuff on miniatures, but Ive used it on art poo poo like this:   
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Jan 5, 2010 23:22
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PaintVagrant posted:Not sure if there are any bigbox retail stores in your area, but target/walmart/kmart have simple green. If you cant find it in the cleaning dept., look in the auto area. Good call, Just as you said they had it in the automotive section of Walmart. Just got done sending my smurfs into Nurgles bubble bath. Hopefully by this weekend they will be ready to get repainted. I used the concentrated stuff as is out of the bottle, I vaguely recall this is the suggested procedure but could someone just confirm this for me?
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Jan 5, 2010 23:30
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PaintVagrant posted:Army painter probably has a red, or you can try that montana art spray paint, which has a gorgeous red. You mean something like this: http://www.thewarstore.com/product39111.html
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Jan 5, 2010 23:31
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Ezekiel_980 posted:Good call, Just as you said they had it in the automotive section of Walmart. Just got done sending my smurfs into Nurgles bubble bath. Hopefully by this weekend they will be ready to get repainted. You got it man. No need to dilute it.
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Jan 6, 2010 00:05
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Iron Squid posted:You mean something like this: http://www.thewarstore.com/product39111.html Yeah. I havent used their red, but their blue and "platemail" are nice. Bear in mind, while they ARE primers, they dont have quite as much tooth as regular primers, so you may find that washes and certain thinned paints want to "bead up" a little on its surface. I found for the most part I didnt run into that issue, but I had to keep my paint a touch thicker than I usually keep it to make sure I was getting good coverage. I painted these GKTS and this cygnar warjack using army painter sprays:  
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Jan 6, 2010 00:53
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GoodBee posted:This is a really useful piece of information. I read your and someone elses earlier posts about the other types too. Now, if someone is just looking for a putty to fill gaps and not do any sculpting then you can't really go wrong with any of the putties? Filling gaps can be done with pretty much any putty, but if I had to make a recommendation, I'd go with green stuff or brown stuff. Either is good for adding some detail to a gap, like if you needed to fill a gap between two sections of model that have hair on both, but if the gap is on a flat surface (like on a tank or whatnot), I'd go with brown stuff, as it sands better. Others have recommended milliput to fill gaps, and if it sands smoother, you may wish to try that, though I have not personally done so. 
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Jan 6, 2010 01:24
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Furret Basket posted:I can't believe how many Vallejo paints there are. What are they like compared to GW paints, since that's what I'm used to? The Vallejo Game Colour stuff is pretty much the same, maybe slightly better coverage. The metallics are worse since the little metal particle bits aren't as fine as the Citadel stuff. The Model Colour stuff has loads of awesome muted/realistic shades that the Citadel stuff doesn't cover, plus the coverage is goddamn amazing. It's not very robust though, you'll have to varnish your models well. Oh and re: the old Citadel metallic colours, Cote d'Arms still make them and they were the original manufacturer. Ink and plain old silver metallic paint works perfectly well though, as has been said. Sole.Sushi posted:Others have recommended milliput to fill gaps, and if it sands smoother, you may wish to try that, though I have not personally done so. In addition to curing harder, it's also easier to smooth when still 'active', at least if you're using water (in fact, almost too easy, since it practically dissolves). Myopic fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Jan 6, 2010 |
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Jan 6, 2010 04:29
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Crossposting from the Warhams thread. I painted a lizardmen salamander hunting pack today. Any advice? The whole pack.  Just the salamander.  And some one-piece metal skinks. 
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Jan 6, 2010 06:53
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Furret Basket posted:I can't believe how many Vallejo paints there are. What are they like compared to GW paints, since that's what I'm used to? Maybe someone else might have a solution for this, but, look at the bottles before you buy them. Some (bleached bone I think) have two colors that you have to mix together real well before using. And they seperate every loving time. The metallics suck as somebody said above, and if you don't, I don't know... use medical tools to clean the inside of the nozzle, it will get clogged and crack the nozzle (this happened to my white).
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Jan 6, 2010 07:40
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Whoops. I just primed all the bases for my Chaos Space Marines, but forgot to leave an unpainted space to glue my minis. If I put glue down on top of the paint, will the mini stick?
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Jan 6, 2010 08:31
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