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bladernr posted:
Has anyone else used these before? Looks like a great deal, but I'm just fishing for another opinion before I hit the order button.
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Jan 5, 2010 19:32
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Phone posted:The high-beams worked just fine, I'm guessing just a bit of a bad connection. Well.. and what if you upgrade to 15" or 16" wheels? Edit: looks like the RS-2 was only made in 16"+?? 
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Jan 5, 2010 21:17
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The R-S2 has been discontinued since the R-S3 is out. 15" wheels gets you Star Specs, RE11s, R-S3s, etc.
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Jan 5, 2010 21:37
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Blaise posted:Edit: looks like the RS-2 was only made in 16"+?? It certainly used to exist in 195/60R14, I have a set and a spare pair. I think that was one of the first sizes to sell out when production ended. I gotta say I love the RS2 just as much in 225/40R18 on the MS3. Awesome goddamn tires, especially when I snagged them cheap.
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Jan 5, 2010 22:06
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I have a set of anco one-piece blades on my miata, They worked wonderfully for the first few months then they started to chatter on the up stroke. They still work just fine, they just make noise on the way up because the rubber has set in the position from the downward swing. Is there anything that can be done to prevent that?
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Jan 6, 2010 02:18
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Granite Octopus posted:the gently caress? this has annoyed me greatly with my '99, but christ, a car built in 2009 without intermittent wipers? They're intermittent...they're just not variable intermittent.
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Jan 6, 2010 03:31
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I bought a 2007 Miata this Saturday and so far I love it. The only problems are a lot of road noise (I expected that though) and a noise coming from what seems to be the rear axle area. A mechanic friend said he thinks its just the differential or LSD doing its thing, and to not worry about it. The car drives absolutely fine and there are no other noises, everything works! As for the road noise, there are two empty cubbies behind the seats right in front of the rear wheel wells, would filling that with a cutout of rubber foam do anything for the road noise? When you are driving do you let the clutch slip for more than a few seconds when starting from 0mph and going into 1st gear? Is it bad for the transmission? I know I am wearing out the clutch, but I am getting better at driving a stickshift car. EDIT: This guy may have a similar problem: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=269463 pacheco fucked around with this message at 08:19 on Jan 6, 2010 |
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Jan 6, 2010 08:16
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As a rule you want the clutch to slip as little as possible. My starts are usually about 1-1.5 seconds of slip on level ground, which I always worry is too much.
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Jan 6, 2010 09:45
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Tactical Bonnet posted:I have a set of anco one-piece blades on my miata, They worked wonderfully for the first few months then they started to chatter on the up stroke. They still work just fine, they just make noise on the way up because the rubber has set in the position from the downward swing. I've never done this myself, but from what I've heard, very careful application of vaseline to the rubber on occasion (by very careful, I mean just enough to coat with a very thin film, wiping off ALL excess) will keep the rubber pliable and help prevent it from doing that... BUT, like I said, I've never done so myself... I just replace the blades when it happens and go on with life... as far as buying constantly breaking parts goes, wiper blades are almost a non-expense.
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Jan 6, 2010 19:01
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I'm taking my 99 to a track day next month and I need to get a few things for it before I go. It's stock right now with a rollbar at 70k miles. I'm going to run DOT race tires I have on my VW rims(14" Ecsta V700) First of all the stock brakes on there as garbage. They're brand new but I can tell they're the cheap $14.99 autozone specials that have zero bite. I usually go with a nice set of Ferodo fast-road pads. What's a common upgrade for Miata pads? The alignment is off so I want to get a good set of springs and shocks. then get a good alignment. I usually go with something like a set of H&R race springs for a 1-2" drop and some Bilstein Sports. What's the equivalent in Miata-land. I'm so not used to the strength of the Miata aftermarket. When looking up parts for my VW or Porsche there's one or maybe 2 choices for a particular part. For the Miata there 6 or 8 different choices. It's completely paralysing 
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Jan 8, 2010 03:08
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If you don't mind buying new rotors (or resurfacing), Carbotech makes some excellent pads.
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Jan 8, 2010 04:44
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Pads: Hawk HPS/HP+, Axxis Ultimates, and Carbotech XP8 or XP12 are popular among miata folks. Carbotechs are pretty expensive though. Definitely replace your brake fluid with ATE Super Blue Flyin Miata Springs with Tokico Illuminas is a popular setup. If you feel like spending more and are set on Bilsteins, talk to Shaikh at Fat Cat Motorsports. I got a set of custom-valved Bilsteins and complete coilovers with NB top-hats and custom bushings for ~$1700. If nothing else, you'll want to get his bushings. As much as we like to rag on miata.net, there's a lot of info in the Suspension/Brakes forum.
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Jan 8, 2010 04:47
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HPS is street oriented. Go with HP+ or more.
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Jan 8, 2010 23:29
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pacheco posted:I bought a 2007 Miata this Saturday and so far I love it. The only problems are a lot of road noise (I expected that though) and a noise coming from what seems to be the rear axle area. Pretty sure I got these exact noises and my dad's car does too. Does it get really loud when you're at low RPM in 1st and 2nd? I noticed that if you listen closely, you can hear it at idle and if you clutch in, it disappears, so I think it's transmission noise. I was thinking maybe a fluid change might make a difference?
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Jan 9, 2010 18:20
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GoblinBomb posted:Pretty sure I got these exact noises and my dad's car does too. Does it get really loud when you're at low RPM in 1st and 2nd? I noticed that if you listen closely, you can hear it at idle and if you clutch in, it disappears, so I think it's transmission noise. Sounds like a TOB or pilot bearing. Cheap to fix, but a pain in the rear end to get to since you have to drop the trans. I'm only referring to the fact that the noise goes away when you depress the clutch. Can you describe what it sounds like in 1st in 2nd at low rpm?
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Jan 9, 2010 21:11
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What's the best way to clean the plastic rear window? Mine got some muddy rain on it and I can't see poo poo out of it, which is bad when it's too cold to put the top down.
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Jan 9, 2010 21:24
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Anybody in the SF bay area interested in a hardtop? I've got a black one for sale: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2400145&pagenumber=17#post370878837
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Jan 11, 2010 07:40
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DreamOn13 posted:Sounds like a TOB or pilot bearing. Cheap to fix, but a pain in the rear end to get to since you have to drop the trans. I'm only referring to the fact that the noise goes away when you depress the clutch. Can you describe what it sounds like in 1st in 2nd at low rpm? For me it happens when its not in gear as well, seems that overall speed has more to do with it than the actual gear. It happens behind the passenger's seat, however, the passenger's can't hear it unless you really try to squeeze your head behind the seat. I have had several other people drive the car, and nobody's noticed the noise. I noticed it the very first day. As for how it sounds, imagine a very light metallic grinding noise that changes with speed. I know what a grinding brake pad sounds like, and it's not that, there's no squeal either. When I go to work tomorrow I will try to put the noise into words properly.
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Jan 11, 2010 09:19
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Tactical Bonnet posted:What's the best way to clean the plastic rear window? Mine got some muddy rain on it and I can't see poo poo out of it, which is bad when it's too cold to put the top down. a soft cloth and gentle cleaner or just plain water. If mines gotten really mucky, I'll use a glass cleaner, but always with a soft cloth, not paper towels. I've seen cases where cheap paper towels can scratch up the plastic and that just annoys me to no ends. Just don't hit the window with a bristle brush or anything abrasive at all. Also, if you don't have one, get one of these. They do a great job of keeping the plastic window scratch free when you've got the top down. Without using this, or a bath towel or something, eventually the top will wear a nicely defined line of abrasions into the window where the top material sits on it while the top is down.
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Jan 11, 2010 17:32
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Where can I find a full set of rear brakes cheap for a 94? My rear brakes went out pretty much without warning, and my mechanic says that not only did the pads eat through the rotors but the calipers are seized and the brackets and everything else are damaged and the entire setup needs replacing. He wants to charge me 530 for this, saying that "mazda parts are expensive". Please tell me I can do better than that.
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Jan 12, 2010 20:49
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Well, new pads/rotors/calipers are over 400 for the parts alone, so that sounds like a pretty good deal... http://finishlineperformance.com/store/home.php?cat=303
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Jan 12, 2010 20:56
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bladernr posted:Just don't hit the window with a bristle brush or anything abrasive at all. Also, if you don't have one, get one of these. They do a great job of keeping the plastic window scratch free when you've got the top down. Without using this, or a bath towel or something, eventually the top will wear a nicely defined line of abrasions into the window where the top material sits on it while the top is down. Is there any reason why I couldn't just lay microfiber towels down instead? I have a ton of those and the window as just going to lay back there all summer once it warms up anyway.
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Jan 12, 2010 21:05
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The Third Man posted:Well, new pads/rotors/calipers are over 400 for the parts alone, so that sounds like a pretty good deal... And there's nowhere else that sells them cheaper? I'm pretty much hosed then.
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Jan 12, 2010 21:12
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mobn posted:And there's nowhere else that sells them cheaper? I'm pretty much hosed then. I'd buy junkyard calipers (car-part.com) and buy new rotors and pads. Should be about $20 per new rotor, $20 for lovely autozone pads, and about 20-30 per used caliper I'd guess.
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Jan 12, 2010 22:50
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Tactical Bonnet posted:Is there any reason why I couldn't just lay microfiber towels down instead? I have a ton of those and the window as just going to lay back there all summer once it warms up anyway. No reason at all... some people use those, or even soft bath towels. The cover I mentioned only because I have one, and it snaps down and doesn't go anywhere... The reality is that the cover is just two pieces of vinyl with a felt liner. The point is just to have something non-abrasive covering the plastic to keep it from getting scratched up. It also protects the part that sticks out from under the top when it's folded from direct sunlight...
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Jan 12, 2010 23:05
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DreamOn13 posted:I'd buy junkyard calipers (car-part.com) and buy new rotors and pads. Should be about $20 per new rotor, $20 for lovely autozone pads, and about 20-30 per used caliper I'd guess. Thanks. I ended up haggling with him and he dropped the price 100 bucks, so I let him fix it.
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Jan 12, 2010 23:30
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I just picked up my first Miata. I think I got a decent price, but I was tired of looking at beat ones and decided that a very clean, high mileage example was worth it. I just paid $4500 for a decently clean '99 base model with 140K miles. It was from a dealer, and included proof and receipts that they had serviced all the brakes, did the timing belt, water pump, and all the accessory belts, put in a new battery, and put 4 absolutely lovely but new tires on. Did I do well? After the 250 mile drive home and a lot of idling, I got some slight belt squeal that had not been there in the beginning. Is this the belts breaking in? Do I need to check the tension to make sure it's right? Also, what maintenance is left to do before I hang on to it a while? Should I replace the transmission fluid with Redline as the miata.net guys say, or are they all douche bags? I only picked up such a high-mileage example because I have heard great things about Miatas. I'm willing to take the money and time to maintain it right, I would love it if this car could hit 250k miles. $4500 for a vehicle with 140k was scary, but just because I'm used to less reliable things. Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 06:26 on Jan 13, 2010 |
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Jan 13, 2010 05:56
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I think you did fine. $4500 for an NB with the timing and waterpump recently done is pretty good, regardless of the mileage.
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Jan 13, 2010 08:08
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Try to budget about 1k for misc repairs that might come up, including getting some Azenis for dirt cheap and attending a few autocrosses locally.
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Jan 13, 2010 08:20
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Phone posted:Try to budget about 1k for misc repairs that might come up, including getting some Azenis for dirt cheap and attending a few autocrosses locally. Will do. I've done one autocross in my life before, it was in a beat to poo poo 1990 Miata with a bad pulley that we sprayed WD-40 on between runs to make it stop making terrible noises. $1k is about what I had planned on for misc repairs / reconditioning, but right now it really seems like it won't need that much. The only noticeable problem is that the handbrake is loose, that should be something I can fix very easily though. What about the belts? Should new belts be squealing like this, and does this mean they are too tight or too loose? I need a service manual so I can see what the deflection spec on the accessory belts are. I've never driven a Miata with power steering before! Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 08:36 on Jan 13, 2010 |
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Jan 13, 2010 08:32
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well this is just annoying. When I bought my car, it came with a spare de-powered steering rack (miata.net method) and yesterday I decided "hey I should put that spare rack in" since I had been running the powered rack without the pump for the last few months. So I set out to do the swap, destroying a balljoint on the powered rack in the process. I finally got the old rack out, and the depowered rack in. Took it for a drive and it became very obvious very quick that the depowered one was *hosed* beyond use. So now I have to daily drive the RX7 while I find a replacement rack.
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Jan 13, 2010 08:46
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Weinertron posted:After the 250 mile drive home and a lot of idling, I got some slight belt squeal that had not been there in the beginning. Is this the belts breaking in? Do I need to check the tension to make sure it's right? Drive it for a bit and see, but you can at least pop the hood and check the accessory belts to see if they are loose or not, and if they're starting to shred ;-) Regarding Redline, I've got Redline in mine and I didn't notice any difference. OTOH, my 91 BRG also only has 87K on it. I've heard, stress the word heard, that Redline makes a difference in transmissions with more mileage, slop, noise, synchro issues, etc... If you don't have any records showing where the transmission and diff fluid was changed, it's worth it to go ahead and change them out now, since your car has 140K on it. One thing I WOULD keep an eye on, oil leaks from front and rear main seals and around the CAS (or whatever it's called in an NB). I've found that some people freak out and change the TB/Water pump/tensioners but never change those seals. Also, and this applies to ANY car I buy, regardless of history, I usually do the following myself within the first couple weeks: Oil/filter air filter PCV Spark plugs and wires But that's just me being a bit paranoid and wanting to have a good baseline mileage for basic maintenance items. Another annoyance to check out, remove the center console and upper shift cover. There are two rubber covers that go on the shifter and cover the turret, those tend to break down over time and shred. They should be replaced if torn. Not difficult to get into. And as for Miata.Net being all douchebags... M.net has probably the same signal to noise ratio that SA has. There are douchebags and there are some very helpful, nice and knowledgeable people there, not to mention a good bit of info in the Garage section, and in the various subforums.
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Jan 13, 2010 20:26
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I just bought a 2000 LS, 126k miles with all the maintenance records. Only modification seems to be an alarm and an alarmingly loud horn. Sorry for the horrid nighttime picture!
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Jan 14, 2010 01:19
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crutt posted:I just bought a 2000 LS, 126k miles with all the maintenance records. Awesome, congrats. Is that Evolution Orange? Weinertron posted:What about the belts? Should new belts be squealing like this, and does this mean they are too tight or too loose? Nope, they shouldn't. It's probably just loose, like bladernr said.
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Jan 14, 2010 04:29
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Yes it is! Also- it seems like the battery is kinda low on power (like a battery thats almost dead) when I start the car. I cant see the date on the battery but its an original mazda battery with the little hoses. How much is this to replace and do I have to go to the dealership?
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Jan 14, 2010 04:34
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bladernr posted:No reason at all... some people use those, or even soft bath towels. The cover I mentioned only because I have one, and it snaps down and doesn't go anywhere... The reality is that the cover is just two pieces of vinyl with a felt liner. My whole top is protected from the sun when it's down because I put the cover on it.
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Jan 14, 2010 06:05
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crutt posted:Yes it is! Also- it seems like the battery is kinda low on power (like a battery thats almost dead) when I start the car. I cant see the date on the battery but its an original mazda battery with the little hoses. How much is this to replace and do I have to go to the dealership? About $80 at Autozone. The old AZ batteries fit just like factory, the new ones have different ports for the hoses but they come with an adapter kit.
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Jan 14, 2010 06:14
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Alternately, just park on hills. It's what I did while I was waiting on pay day to replace my battery.
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Jan 14, 2010 06:23
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bladernr posted:Drive it for a bit and see, but you can at least pop the hood and check the accessory belts to see if they are loose or not, and if they're starting to shred ;-) Checked out the belts, theres been no squeal at all today and they don't look loose. I'll wait until I have a deflection spec before I tighten them unless they make a noise again. Are Miata batteries / starters just a little weaker in general? I have a new battery, but it's taking a full second of cranking to start where my last car always started on the first crank. If my starter is old / bad, is that a cheap fix? On the other hand, the Miata was outside in the cold last night and my last car was always in a garage where it was warm. Other possible reasons for slightly slow starts: The dealer put 10W-30 in it rather than 5W-30. The poor battery had been sitting for a while on the dealer lot, and may still not be completely charged. Or, the new battery may have been hosed by sitting on the dealer lot through the coldest winter Texas has had in years.
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Jan 14, 2010 06:59
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where can I get Miata service manuals? I decided the parts to get to upgrade for my stock 99's first track day: Porterfield R4S -STREET Front Racing Beat Rear Miata Sway Bar - Solid ALL years Racing Beat Sway Bar Brace Kit - Front Racing Beat Front Miata Sway Bar - Tubular 99-00 (the smaller one) H&R Race Springs Bilstein Sport shocks I think with that, some old DOT race tires and I'll weld a Magnaflo muffler in place of stock that it should be pretty fun and reliable. aventari fucked around with this message at 08:29 on Jan 14, 2010 |
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Jan 14, 2010 08:25
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