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Iron Squid posted:Whoops.
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Jan 6, 2010 08:37
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Anphrax posted:Maybe someone else might have a solution for this, but, look at the bottles before you buy them. Some (bleached bone I think) have two colors that you have to mix together real well before using. And they seperate every loving time. The metallics suck as somebody said above, and if you don't, I don't know... use medical tools to clean the inside of the nozzle, it will get clogged and crack the nozzle (this happened to my white). One tip I saw for vallejo paints was, other than to shake the pot really vigorously, was to slam the bottom of the bottle against something hard / the palm of your hand / etc. to dislodge any gunk that had settled. Works a treat for me, I have more trouble with foundation paints separating than I do vallejo. Speaking of which, I'm sure it's just me but every time I thin orkhide shade out it begins to separate, meaning I have to violently mix it up on the palette every time I go to load my brush, a double pain in the arse when mixed with black for my DA basecoats... and don't start me on painting vehicles with that mix either  Iron Squid posted:Whoops. for plastics, just scrape a bit of the paint away and rough it up with the tip of your modelling knife, do the same on the contact area of the feet and you should be fine.
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Jan 6, 2010 09:54
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Late night photography never turns out as well as it should. Here is a French line infantry battalion. Here is a closer shot of the command company sitting on my couch arm: 
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Jan 6, 2010 10:32
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why is he donking himself in the head?
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Jan 6, 2010 10:52
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He has been shot (this is why you don't stand at the front people).
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Jan 6, 2010 11:15
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MasterSlowPoke posted:why is he donking himself in the head? He suddenly realized that he left the oven on.
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Jan 6, 2010 14:38
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Myopic posted:The Vallejo Game Colour stuff is pretty much the same, maybe slightly better coverage. The metallics are worse since the little metal particle bits aren't as fine as the Citadel stuff. The Model Colour stuff has loads of awesome muted/realistic shades that the Citadel stuff doesn't cover, plus the coverage is goddamn amazing. It's not very robust though, you'll have to varnish your models well. Oh hey I think this might be it! Thanks Myopic!
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Jan 6, 2010 15:14
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On the subject of colored primers, there was a tutorial on painting Khador on BrushThralls a few years back where the guy painting used Duplicolor Sandable Primer. Here's the primed and final results of it: 
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Jan 6, 2010 15:45
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Iron Squid posted:Whoops. I usually gloss seal my models before I start basing. The models pop right back off when doing that. How I base: Glue the sealed model down and set the base up. Once the glue is dried, I pop the model off, prime it, paint it, and gloss seal it. While the gloss seal is still curing I scrape off the area of the footprint with a small file as best as I can (it doesn't have to be perfect, any decent amount of exposed plastic will do the trick). When the base is cured, I file the bottoms off the feet and the glue them to the base. Then I spray down the whole model with the only good Testors product, Dullcoat. After that I apply static grass and snow, or whatever else, and it's done. A bit labor intensive, but I don't have to worry about getting paint where I don't want it.
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Jan 6, 2010 17:32
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Aranan posted:On the subject of colored primers, there was a tutorial on painting Khador on BrushThralls a few years back where the guy painting used Duplicolor Sandable Primer. Here's the primed and final results of it: I'd love to see that tutorial. Also, for my Chaos Space Marines, I've assembled the torsos and the legs but everything else I feel like I want to paint separately. If I assemble it now, its going to have pieces too close to other pieces for me to paint properly.
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Jan 6, 2010 18:58
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Iron Squid posted:Also, for my Chaos Space Marines, I've assembled the torsos and the legs but everything else I feel like I want to paint separately. If I assemble it now, its going to have pieces too close to other pieces for me to paint properly. That's how I paint marines in general, legs and torso together... then arms, shoulder pads and weapons get assembled separately... heads and backpacks stay separate as well. I'd post a pic but I'm too lazy to re-host (it's on imagesh4ck  )
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Jan 6, 2010 22:32
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Crossposting in the Warhams thread. Just got back into some painting and my new webcam demands that I take pictures. Here's a Kroxigor I've been working on (still incomplete. Needs his washes and a proper base). I also got my salamander crew and WIP flying skink chief in the pic. CC anybody? Apologies for the blur, my camera doesn't like close-ups.  For the skink's cloak (and shields on my skink cohort) I was thinking a nice dark blue with some extreme highlights. Sort of a Crimson Fist color. What's a good way to get that? Edit: Full army shot at 1000 points, just because I felt like it. Oh the sea of black, this might take a while to paint up at my rate. 
Banannana fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Jan 6, 2010 |
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Jan 6, 2010 23:30
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Iron Squid posted:I'd love to see that tutorial. http://archive.brushthralls.com/model-walkthroughs/faction-box-in-10-days-khador.html
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Jan 6, 2010 23:38
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MarionetteOwl posted:Crossposting in the Warhams thread. I really wish you'd use or get a better camera.
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Jan 6, 2010 23:49
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MinionOfCthulhu posted:I really wish you'd use or get a better camera. As do I. All I have is a lovely webcam and my dad's old camera which picks out details even worse.
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Jan 7, 2010 00:00
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Aranan posted:http://archive.brushthralls.com/model-walkthroughs/faction-box-in-10-days-khador.html A tip of the hat, good sir. enri posted:That's how I paint marines in general, legs and torso together... then arms, shoulder pads and weapons get assembled separately... heads and backpacks stay separate as well. When you do that, do you put anything protective over the area of the mini that you're going to paint (ie: where the arms attach?) Or else do you just prime the whole thing and put glue on over the primer? Edit: Also should I attach the mini to the base before or after painting? Iron Squid fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Jan 7, 2010 |
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Jan 7, 2010 00:55
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Furret Basket posted:Oh hey I think this might be it! Thanks Myopic! Cheap too, compared to Citadel or Vallejo. If it turns out it's not the right shade or whatever I have a pot of the original Polished Blue sitting around collecting dust. No way I'm going to use it, I've never had good results with the old coloured metallics (in hindsight, painting an entire Leman Russ metallic purple was a really bad idea). Iron Squid posted:When you do that, do you put anything protective over the area of the mini that you're going to paint (ie: where the arms attach?) Or else do you just prime the whole thing and put glue on over the primer? I do the same with most miniatures and when it comes to the final assembly I just scrape the paint off with a knife. Also, it's usually better to attach the model and paint the base first. It's easier to avoid getting paint on your base than it is to avoid getting paint on your model when you're drybrushing the sand or whatever you're using. Myopic fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Jan 7, 2010 |
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Jan 7, 2010 01:24
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Aranan posted:http://archive.brushthralls.com/model-walkthroughs/faction-box-in-10-days-khador.html Just a warning about brushthralls painting tutorials: their painters like to make things really complicated for no reason. That khador boxed set is painted to a decent TT standard, and the amount of layers/glazes/complicated poo poo the guy does to get to that standard is pretty absurd.
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Jan 7, 2010 01:32
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I just flipped through it, lol @ 8 layers on that red e: actually 11  gently caress that stupid tutorial
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Jan 7, 2010 01:36
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To be fair, I imagine it looks pretty spectacular, though subdued under normal lighting. It is a mistake I commonly make. I tend to make things kind of gentle and gradual, but you really have to go overboard with highlighting and shading on minis to make them look interesting. Reading tips here and on EOW has not only made my stuff pop a lot more, but I have been able to get stuff cranked out considerably faster.
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Jan 7, 2010 02:04
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jigokuman posted:It is a mistake I commonly make. I tend to make things kind of gentle and gradual, but you really have to go overboard with highlighting and shading on minis to make them look interesting. 'sup underhighlighting buddy. I do this every drat time I start a new army off and work out a nice method of painting, but of course being a stickler for keeping everything identical, means I can't then go and change my technique without feeling obliged to re-visit a bunch of poo poo when I realise that my highlights are barely noticeable under anything but a daylight lamp  Iron Squid posted:When you do that, do you put anything protective over the area of the mini that you're going to paint (ie: where the arms attach?) Or else do you just prime the whole thing and put glue on over the primer? I do my basing before priming so the base gets attached, gets a covering of sand etc. and gets undercoated with the rest. As for masking areas off, in a nutshell... no. But with plastics, I scrape the paint away on the contact points before gluing (easily done with marines because most of the contact points are hidden away.. I wouldn't fancy doing the same with the arms on an ork for example) In some instances, I actually glue some parts to spare pieces of sprue via those contact points (usually on those little nobbly pokey out bits that you see on sprues) Bugger it, I'll re-host that pic, it'll make more sense if you can see it:  This is post-basecoat, you can see that I paint the bases before I do anything else to save me from drybrushing all sorts of weird and wonderful greys and browns onto the model itself. You can see a row of helmets still glued to their sprue too. If I wasn't so lazy, I'd have fitted the jump packs to spare sprue too, just to make life easier but... I didn't... so life is hard. Just finished giving those guys their first wash 
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Jan 7, 2010 02:10
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jigokuman posted:To be fair, I imagine it looks pretty spectacular, though subdued under normal lighting. Yeah, theres nothing wrong with 11 layers, but there is something wrong with 11 layers to end up with a result that looks like 3 layers and a glaze.
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Jan 7, 2010 02:28
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Hey, I am working on a third soulgrinder. I need some input though: Which leg/torso layout looks best? 1.  2.  or 3.  In 1&2 the legs are "upright" but the rotation of the torso varies. In version 3, the legs are backward bending. The torso also has one cannon arm built. I am not sure if I want the other arm to be a CC weapon or another big fuckoff cannon. !amicable fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Jan 7, 2010 |
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Jan 7, 2010 03:11
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I felt like I was in elementary trying to guess the difference between the two top images. I could see no difference. But.. I'm a retard, soo...
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Jan 7, 2010 03:23
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Nah, I hosed up. I think it ought to be fixed now?
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Jan 7, 2010 03:24
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#2 I guess. But now I just think I'm on an acid trip 
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Jan 7, 2010 03:38
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Just broke down and ordered some Series 7s because I can't deal with these lovely local art store brushes anymore fukkkkk
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Jan 7, 2010 04:29
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PaintVagrant posted:This isn't one of their more impressive ones.
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Jan 7, 2010 04:41
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Aranan posted:A lot of the brushthralls tutorials wind up with pretty nice results. Agreed, that particular tut is just way too many steps to get to a very basic looking result. amicable: 3
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Jan 7, 2010 06:16
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PaintVagrant posted:Agreed, that particular tut is just way too many steps to get to a very basic looking result. Can you recommend a better tut for basic stuff?
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Jan 7, 2010 06:17
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For beginners, definitely check out GWs tutorials on their website. Better yet, just pop by a GW store and ask them to help you
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Jan 7, 2010 06:19
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PaintVagrant posted:For beginners, definitely check out GWs tutorials on their website. Better yet, just pop by a GW store and ask them to help you I'm going to be trying that tomorrow. Thanks!
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Jan 7, 2010 06:32
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Started working on some bases and wanted to do a 'rocky desert near ruins' theme but none of the tutorials I found had a colour scheme I really liked since most were too red. Edit: Finally think I found what I was looking for thiswayliesmadness fucked around with this message at 09:31 on Jan 7, 2010 |
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Jan 7, 2010 06:36
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It figures that as soon as I need to spraypaint something, the weather drops to 40 degrees. In Miami! See, this is why people like gesso.
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Jan 7, 2010 06:39
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Pfft, weather. I just spray prime indoors. My cat has lung disease. I hope it isn't related!
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Jan 7, 2010 06:45
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I spray my primer in the basement, then crack a window. I worry that I'm awfully near to the pilot light of the hot water heater, though.
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Jan 7, 2010 07:23
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Iron Squid posted:I spray my primer in the basement, then crack a window. Does it have that cool sticker that shows a little stick figure guy blowing himself up with fumes?
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Jan 7, 2010 07:34
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Jan 7, 2010 07:46
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:My cat has lung disease. I hope it isn't related! Stop killing your cats. 
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Jan 7, 2010 07:48
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PV, how do you do your white on black? amicable. Had to google what a soulgrinder was, but... #1 Tinweasel's spray booth is the best spray booth: http://www.wideopenwest.com/~tinweasel/spray_booth.html My first  conversion:  Click here for the full 1000x563 image. other side. He's holding the Plaque of Tepok btw. These are day old. Added some detail to the staff and hat.
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Jan 7, 2010 07:59
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