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Sole.Sushi
Feb 19, 2008

Seaweed!? Get the fuck out!

!amicable posted:

Nope :)

I need to either pin it to a base or put some lead weights in the feet. It's just a bit tilty.

Ball bearings can work too, just got to glue them in place so they don't rattle. Put it inside the model, and hope that it shifts the center of gravity enough down and back that it stands.

Edit: Asked about it in the Warhammer thread, and I'm not entirely sure if it's kosher here, but does anyone need Carnifex parts for a conversion or whatnot? I'm quite literally giving them away if someone is willing to pick up the shipping and handling.

Sole.Sushi fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Jan 9, 2010

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Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

PROGRAM
A > - - -
LR > > - -
LL > - - -
Voting time!

I have quickled whittled out a couple sketches to exhibit my ideas:

Here, we have several bonesword concepts. The upper left is a basic outline of the original 2nd edition bonesword's general shape. The upper right are the possible heads of the blade ("spear," "flat," "curve," and "hook"). The bottom right are the possible hilts ("classic," "melded," "wolverine," and "living").

I've basically decided on the hilt, for a specific reason I will detail with the next image.


As you can see, this is a concept sketch of a warrior equipped with a bonesword with the "living" hilt to drive in the concept of, despite it looking like a sword, the sword is simply a bio-weapon bearing an eery resemblance to a human weapon. I altered the hilt of the left-handed bonesword to be a combination of the "wolverine" and "living" hilts.

The reasons I have a lesser bonesword (left hand) and a greater bonesword (right hand) are to match the right-handed nature of Tyranid bio-weapons, and because having a pair of matching swords doesn't account for the ingame effect of slightly increasing the instant death ability of a single sword. If it really were a pair of matching swords, they'd add more attacks, parry, or something else more drastic. I'm comfortable with this arrangement, although the final product will have the lesser bonesword located closer to the wrist (because it kind of looks stunted in my quick sketch).

The questions remain:
Which head(s) do I use for the blades? Both swords don't have to match.
Does the "different hands" concept make sense or look good? Should I just stick with 2 of the same weapon?
Failing the bio-weapon concept, which hilt should I use?


If you have a suggestion that isn't drawn out here, I'm all ears.

Fix
Jul 26, 2005

NEWT THE MOON

I'd like to hear what others do to break up painters' block. I haven't painted anything in nearly a month thanks to traveling, and looking at the unfinished project on my desk, I just can't bring myself to leap right back into it. It's all assembly line boring troops.

Do you tend to find it's better to muscle through and finish that goal, or do you have some way to get the juices flowing again?

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

PROGRAM
A > - - -
LR > > - -
LL > - - -

Fix posted:

I'd like to hear what others do to break up painters' block. I haven't painted anything in nearly a month thanks to traveling, and looking at the unfinished project on my desk, I just can't bring myself to leap right back into it. It's all assembly line boring troops.

Do you tend to find it's better to muscle through and finish that goal, or do you have some way to get the juices flowing again?

Just start painting, and eventually you'll get comfortable doing it. I know I'm in a bit of a funk at the moment, but once I get started working things tend to solve themselves. I get X block all the drat time, and that's the only advice I can offer that really works.



Continuing the "Tyranids without models" theme.


Our next exhibit is a collection of mycetic landing spores.

Let me try to explain what you're looking at...

(clockwise)

The black landing spore is lovingly known as the "Lavos Spawn" model, and is the exact type used in the Casavant Prime GD Toronto table:

(not mine)
I prefer the idea of Tyranids being crustacean (as opposed to insectoid) with the additions of skin, central nervous systems, closed circulatory systems, and whatnot. The clamshell design reinforces that theme, plus these are the exact paint scheme I'm going to use.

Design pros:
Easy to construct.

Aesthetically pleasing.
Huge, grants cover saves like whoa.

Design cons:
Done before.
Where the hell do I put the tentacles and bio-weapons? This is important, as I want to be WSIWYG with my landing spores.
Size borderlines on "abusive modelling for ingame benefit."


The blue landing spore is what I call the "rafflesia" model for its flowerlike structure.

The outer shell is basically a series of petals that unfurl upon landing. The outside of the petals is rough and heatshielded, the inside contains Tyranids and the actual landing spore creature.

The landing spore center houses a bulbous protrusion with a gigantic eye on top and 6 tentacles coming out (2 reasons: "tentacle" assault 6 shooting weapon with 6" range, and tyranids have 6 limbs). It will be just shy of a warrior in height, enabling enough space to accomodate a carnifex in the pod while keeping the size equivalent to an Imperial drop pod.

Design Pros:
loving disgusting.
WSIWYG.
Not terribly hard to construct in comparison to the next 2 models.

Design Cons:
When it's open, it really short. I've wasted an opportunity to make make a model that can grant helpful cover saves.
When it's open, it has a HUGE loving footprint unless I specifically mark off what portions count as the "body" for purposes of weapon range.
When it's halfway open (I have to model several pods, so each pod will be in differing states of open-close) it's borderline abusive in terms of model size.



The green landing spore is the "basic" model.
It's follows the same design principle as the Forgeworld Tyranid brood nest model.


Creatures rip out of the sides through the thin skin covering the various exits.

Design Pros:
Absurdly easy to make the basic shape.
Gets the point across.
Every possible one will grant a cover save.

Design Cons:
Honestly? It's kind of boring.
I basically have to make different pods for each individual species that each pod houses, because how the gently caress is a carnifex going to rip through a termagant hole?
Huge.
Where the HELL do I put the tentacles?
Forming the details are going to be a federal pain in the neck and also require precious other models.


And now, for my personal favorite, the red "Martian dreadclaw" design.

Before we continue, let me explain the dreadclaw and how it works.


The dreadclaw is a Chaos drop pod.


Unlike Imperial drop pods, the dreadclaw's exit is on the bottom of the model. How does this work?


Well, the dreadclaw has extending legs that stand up and allow the free motion of the disembarked CSM.



These 6 images depict the most disgusting landing spore concept I could conjure.

First, the landing spore has a powerful shock-absorbing shell on the bottom that also functions as a partial heat shield. Other heat shields are on the sides. Upon landing, the shell disconnects from the landing spore. The side-mounted heat shields fold open and long tentacles come out, raising the landing spore. Finally, the sphincter on the bottom of the spore (but protected by the shell at first) opens, dropping the contained models into the discarded shell, ready for battle.

The bottom left image depicts a doodled detail of the tentacle erected, the heat shield having folded down. I only included 3 standing tentacles, allowing me the freedom to include more tentacles for defensive purposes eventually. The final two images depict the opening of the sphincter on the bottom of the spore.

Design Pros:
ABSOLUTELY loving DISGUSTING.
Totally WSIWYG.
Can transport any model without trouble.
The various stages provide variety without providing varying levels of line-of-sight interference.

Design Cons:
I can't model these in clay unless I find a way to triple-reinforce the legs or the standing models will snap.



Cast your votes!

Broken Loose fucked around with this message at 09:19 on Jan 9, 2010

Sole.Sushi
Feb 19, 2008

Seaweed!? Get the fuck out!
Well, depending on how thin you want the legs, you could use electrical conduit, the flexible kind. It's pretty stiff to start with, and since it's hollow, you can fill it with either heavy-gauge wire or some kind of filler to make it solid.
I like number three. :dance:
Quick question though: Can these things move around the board? If so, this is certainly the way to go.

Dr. Phildo
Dec 8, 2003

Except the heaven had come so near,
So seemed to choose my door,The distance would not haunt me so

Soiled Meat
Yeah, I like that last one, Mr Loose. But I don't think it needs the "heat shield" shell part. The thought of this thing landing, taking a squat and crapping out nasty bugs pleases me.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe
Maybe you could try combining options 1&2 together for a sort of combo-pod. Have your pod consist of chitinous heatshield (like the lavos pod) which trails behind it a mass of gelatinous pods containing the creatures. When it hits, the whole gooey mass explodes to disspate the impact, then everything crawls out of it. Solves the originality and ease of construction problems, but it may be troublesome if you want some cover on your table unless you have the heatshield hit at an odd angle.

That or bug-crapper. I always thought the Dreadclaw was designed as it was because it was meant as a boarding pod as well, not just as a drop pod (re: Battlefleet Gothic). The pod would clamp onto the outside of its target, and the stuff at the bottom would cut through and disgorge its cargo into the target ship.

Danger - Octopus!
Apr 20, 2008


Nap Ghost

Fix posted:

I'd like to hear what others do to break up painters' block. I haven't painted anything in nearly a month thanks to traveling, and looking at the unfinished project on my desk, I just can't bring myself to leap right back into it. It's all assembly line boring troops.

Do you tend to find it's better to muscle through and finish that goal, or do you have some way to get the juices flowing again?

I just paint something else instead. I really can't face painting any of my Imperial Guard so am painting 6mm modern stuff instead.

CyberLord XP
Oct 18, 2005

Goldie...She says her name is Goldie

Broken Loose posted:

Design Cons:
I can't model these in clay unless I find a way to triple-reinforce the legs or the standing models will snap.

Can you not use a heavy piece of wire to provide a core for the legs, then model the clay around it?

bhsman
Feb 10, 2008

by exmarx

Fix posted:

I'd like to hear what others do to break up painters' block. I haven't painted anything in nearly a month thanks to traveling, and looking at the unfinished project on my desk, I just can't bring myself to leap right back into it. It's all assembly line boring troops.

Do you tend to find it's better to muscle through and finish that goal, or do you have some way to get the juices flowing again?

Some people buy a model to paint, like a character from another army, or start a new army and come back to the original one later. I convert v:shobon:v

Fix
Jul 26, 2005

NEWT THE MOON

I really want to move on to something else, but I'm like 9 models from finished with this big chunk of Sisters, and it's like work to get them done rather than hobby. But I'm worried that if I put them away before I at least finish these to tabletop+ quality I'm either going to forget the formula I've been following or just never get them done. I was in a real groove when I got started, but 40 models really take it out of you, especially when they're all static blah.

Still gotta figure out how to base them. Maybe that will be interesting, at least.

Danger - Octopus!
Apr 20, 2008


Nap Ghost

bhsman posted:

or start a new army and come back to the original one later.

crosspostin some teeny russians

bhsman
Feb 10, 2008

by exmarx

Fix posted:

I really want to move on to something else, but I'm like 9 models from finished with this big chunk of Sisters, and it's like work to get them done rather than hobby. But I'm worried that if I put them away before I at least finish these to tabletop+ quality I'm either going to forget the formula I've been following or just never get them done. I was in a real groove when I got started, but 40 models really take it out of you, especially when they're all static blah.

Still gotta figure out how to base them. Maybe that will be interesting, at least.

Then take a break, honestly. Stop working on them entirely or anything 40k related for a week and come back refreshed.

Just :getout:

mcsuede
Dec 30, 2003

Anyone who has a continuous smile on his face conceals a toughness that is almost frightening.
-Greta Garbo

PaintVagrant posted:



PV I'm sure you've said it a thousand times before but how are you doing your gold on those? I'm in midst of a Grey Knights army myself but my gold could use a boost.

Love the "dark" look you've achieved there, by the way. Very distinctive.

mcsuede fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Jan 9, 2010

GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004


Anyone need 1/72 scale plastic army men? PM me and I might be able to hook you up.

Blade_of_tyshalle
Jul 12, 2009

If you think that, along the way, you're not going to fail... you're blind.

There's no one I've ever met, no matter how successful they are, who hasn't said they had their failures along the way.

PV, do you have any pictures of old stuff you've painted that's like, way shittier than your current standards? I'm sure we'd all like to see that your painting abilities didn't spring forth from the forehead of Zeus.




Also, I want to laugh, so the shittier, the better. :v:

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken
Cool basing :v:

Sanford
Jun 30, 2007

...and rarely post!


Blade_of_tyshalle posted:

Also, I want to laugh, so the shittier, the better. :v:

Just wondering if I should start posting here instead of the Warhams thread and that sounds like an open invitation. I'd appreciate any comments on the recent additions to my Chaos horde.

Forgeworld DG up to five guys:



Someone said I should repaint the plasma a cold blue colour, but I'm liking the orange as a stark contrast to the armour. Opinions? It used to be a dark green until someone from here recommended orange and it definitely looks better now.

Various lost & damned souls:



Whoever it was said in the other thread that the Ogryn's skin looked chalky, I touched it up a bit and I think it helped. Thanks for the tip.

And the first two from my possessed box:



And finally, my housemate's Arbites with newly completed Arvus Lighter in the background:



Wider angle pic:



If anyone knows a bits site that has the little cross bit that fits onto the flying base from the Valk kit, please let me know. In fact, if anyone has any alternative suggestions to easily get the Arvus on and off the flying base I'd love to hear them (it is quite heavy).

Sanford fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Jan 10, 2010

Combaticus
Jan 14, 2008

Perfection

Dominance

Ultimate

Fighting

Biotechnology
WOOP, think my trukk is about 95% done now



Also made this as a potential nob weapon in Gorkamorka.



Yep, that is a shoota shaped as a six shooter.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~
Man youre such a plasticard nooblord lol


no seriously wtf thats really the first stuff youve ever made? Amazing

Combaticus
Jan 14, 2008

Perfection

Dominance

Ultimate

Fighting

Biotechnology
The trukk, the gun and the robot arm on the ork is the only real plasticard stuff I've made other than just cutting bits for floortiles on bases, or extra armor. I think the fact that it's an ork trukk helps to hide a lot of the crappy work though.

DOOMCOCK
Apr 17, 2004
IMPROPER USE OF INVERTED COMMAS HOOVER! IMPROPER USE OF INVERTED COMMAS!!
I'm deployed to Afghanistan and trying to paint up an Imperial Guard army while I'm here since I work two out of the twelve hours I'm on shift. Even with that much open time, I really don't enjoy using a brush to prime my models, super tedious. I can't order any spray primer since it would end up on a plane at SOME point. That being the case, can anyone give a suggestion on how to save time on this part of the hobby? I was thinking maybe airbrush since we have a giant air compressor here, but I thought I'd fish for ideas first. Now that I'm to the end of this post though, its looking like hand painting or airbrushing are probably my only options, hah.

Sole.Sushi
Feb 19, 2008

Seaweed!? Get the fuck out!
If you have a motorpool on base, see if you can borrow some of their spray paint. I have no idea if they even have that stuff, but it seems a bit easier to ask first, then go for an airbrush, rather than go for the airbrush only to find out that you have that equipment on base.

In any case, yes, an airbrush sounds like your only option.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002

Grimey Drawer


:wtc:

Shrieking Muppet
Jul 16, 2006
So got my paints today and painted up some marines to see how my idea for a scheme would look. Ran into an issue with yellow though, it seems to end up being very thin and watery making painting with it a bitch. also didn't get very good coverage. That said, whats the best way to do yellow on mini's?

pics of what I tried

Fast_Food_Knight
Nov 23, 2007

Be nice, He's a knight!
He's just a fast food knight.

DOOMCOCK posted:

I'm deployed to Afghanistan and trying to paint up an Imperial Guard army while I'm here since I work two out of the twelve hours I'm on shift. Even with that much open time, I really don't enjoy using a brush to prime my models, super tedious. I can't order any spray primer since it would end up on a plane at SOME point. That being the case, can anyone give a suggestion on how to save time on this part of the hobby? I was thinking maybe airbrush since we have a giant air compressor here, but I thought I'd fish for ideas first. Now that I'm to the end of this post though, its looking like hand painting or airbrushing are probably my only options, hah.

Are you priming by hand with paint or gesso? because if you're using pint try gesso, much easier.

PV how did you do the bases on the grey knights? I wanna steal it

stabbington
Sep 1, 2007

It doesn't feel right to kill an unarmed man... but I'll get over it.
Good yellows are always a product of layering. If you prime black, yellow is easiest to do working up from a brown - GW snakebite leather or P3 rucksack tan to a dark shade like GW foundation iyanden darksun to thin layers of your higher yellow, if you want something that looks really smooth. That said, IIRC iyanden darksun is actually opaque enough to go on fine over black primer without a layer of brown to mitigate the base darkness. I think Yog just does darksun -> brighter yellow on his skaven, and they look badass.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~

DOOMCOCK posted:

I'm deployed to Afghanistan and trying to paint up an Imperial Guard army while I'm here since I work two out of the twelve hours I'm on shift. Even with that much open time, I really don't enjoy using a brush to prime my models, super tedious. I can't order any spray primer since it would end up on a plane at SOME point. That being the case, can anyone give a suggestion on how to save time on this part of the hobby? I was thinking maybe airbrush since we have a giant air compressor here, but I thought I'd fish for ideas first. Now that I'm to the end of this post though, its looking like hand painting or airbrushing are probably my only options, hah.

If you can score any kind of flat spraypaint that should work

e: what sole sushi said, oops

DOOMCOCK
Apr 17, 2004
IMPROPER USE OF INVERTED COMMAS HOOVER! IMPROPER USE OF INVERTED COMMAS!!

Fast_Food_Knight posted:

Are you priming by hand with paint or gesso? because if you're using pint try gesso, much easier.

PV how did you do the bases on the grey knights? I wanna steal it

I'd never even HEARD of gesso. I'm using Vallejo paint and white primer

Sole.Sushi
Feb 19, 2008

Seaweed!? Get the fuck out!
It's primer for painting canvases. Some people love it, some people hate it, and I really doubt you'll have ready access to it. Well, unless you got someone on base that paints for a hobby. They might have some.

DOOMCOCK
Apr 17, 2004
IMPROPER USE OF INVERTED COMMAS HOOVER! IMPROPER USE OF INVERTED COMMAS!!
I can get just about anything through the internet/mail order. Except things that have been determined to be dangerous on a plane, ie. spray cans. Maybe I'll look into that at least if its easy to use though.

Fast_Food_Knight
Nov 23, 2007

Be nice, He's a knight!
He's just a fast food knight.
yeah give it a try. you just slap it on and it shrinks into the contours of the model. easier than priming with paint anyway.

thiswayliesmadness
Dec 3, 2009

I hope to see you next time, and take care all
Anyone used the Tamiya (white) fine surface primer? Grabbed a can till I get a filter for my compressor. Says it's plastic and metal safe but I've never seen anyone mention it for priming their models on here. The few blurbs I've found elsewhere seem to be pretty favorable though there's a few that say it's too heavy.

VVV Was half tempted to return it before I break the seal since the main drawback seems to be how expensive it is. Meh... I'll just give it a go later tonight.

thiswayliesmadness fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Jan 10, 2010

Fast_Food_Knight
Nov 23, 2007

Be nice, He's a knight!
He's just a fast food knight.
Try it on a tester model? let us know how it goes

Danger - Octopus!
Apr 20, 2008


Nap Ghost

Sole.Sushi posted:

If you have a motorpool on base, see if you can borrow some of their spray paint.

Plenty of scale modellers prime with various brands of spray paint that are intended for spraying cars, so if there's any of that around you're probably good. Just test it first to see if it comes out too thick.

PierreTheMime
Dec 9, 2004

Hero of hormagaunts everywhere!
Buglord
Hive Mind don't preach,
I'm in trouble deep,
Hive Mind don't preach,
I've been losing biologically engrained hibernation cycles,
But I've made up my mind, I'm keeping my 3d6 Termagaunts.





Tervigon 1 essentially done aside from the Scything Talons which just have a few base coats of Red Gore. Some touch-ups and highlights to do. Now it's onto some termagaunts while I await my Trygon and Venomthropes...

Danger - Octopus!
Apr 20, 2008


Nap Ghost

Combaticus posted:

WOOP, think my trukk is about 95% done now


It is 95% done and 101% badass. The shotgun strapped the the door is sweet as hell.

A Powerful Cream
Jun 25, 2009

get ready to read some badposts b*tch!! - fdr to hitler, 1972

PierreTheMime posted:

Hive Mind don't preach,
I'm in trouble deep,
Hive Mind don't preach,
I've been losing biologically engrained hibernation cycles,
But I've made up my mind, I'm keeping my 3d6 Termagaunts.





Tervigon 1 essentially done aside from the Scything Talons which just have a few base coats of Red Gore. Some touch-ups and highlights to do. Now it's onto some termagaunts while I await my Trygon and Venomthropes...

That's fantastic. Are the birthing sacs just green stuff?

PierreTheMime
Dec 9, 2004

Hero of hormagaunts everywhere!
Buglord
It was one column cut-out piece of army case foam, a few random flakes of insulation and enough greenstuff to flatten out and cover. Then it was covered in small stones and a thin layer of glue to both seal it and smooth out any fingerprints I may have left. Very little greenstuff was used.

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Fix
Jul 26, 2005

NEWT THE MOON

That sounds like an interesting way to go about it. Did you take any WIP shots?

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