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Apologies in advance for the quick cam photos, just a little conversion for the standard bearer of my Swordmasters of Hoeth. The metal kit comes with a rather horrible standard pole that you have to make your own banner for as seen here:  i had a left over standard from a prince / noble kit as seen here:  and i had a few left over weapon bits from previous kits. I chopped up the bearer, the plastic banner and a weapon tip to make the following:  Will post better pictures once they're painted up.
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Jan 12, 2010 21:09
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dpack_1 posted:Will post better pictures once they're painted up. that's some drat fine work
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Jan 12, 2010 23:33
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So I went ahead and gave red bolters a try, when I get the rest of my paints I'll try the bleached bone on the chest wings. I think its a lot better, the black was too much black for the color scheme. *Edit* Also reading the 40k thread I sorta had an idea, would it be worth magnetizing all my marines arms so that if vanilla marines got boring I could toss on swords and pistols and run BT? Shrieking Muppet fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Jan 13, 2010 |
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Jan 13, 2010 02:18
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Ezekiel_980 posted:Also reading the 40k thread I sorta had an idea, would it be worth magnetizing all my marines arms so that if vanilla marines got boring I could toss on swords and pistols and run BT? Hell, I'm really digging Fix's .gif in the other thread, I think it would be pretty cool to just swap arms and backpacks and viola, traitor legion.
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Jan 13, 2010 02:41
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Iron Crowned posted:Hell, I'm really digging Fix's .gif in the other thread, I think it would be pretty cool to just swap arms and backpacks and viola, traitor legion. Hell I can see no reason why not, more work but would make for much more variety in game options. I know someone posted a site with 100 magnets for $10.00, anyone still have that link?
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Jan 13, 2010 03:00
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I just bought a bunch from http://www.kjmagnetics.com/, their prices seem pretty good.
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Jan 13, 2010 03:06
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Ezekiel_980 posted:So I went ahead and gave red bolters a try, when I get the rest of my paints I'll try the bleached bone on the chest wings. I think its a lot better, the black was too much black for the color scheme. The red is definitely an improvement. Personally I think magnetizing basic troops like that is pretty overkill (no offense Fix) but to each his own.
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Jan 13, 2010 03:21
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Ezekiel_980 posted:Looking much nicer. I can't wait to see them highlighted up. I'd vote against magnetizing your dudes like Fix did, though. It's of dubious use and you'll have a bunch of dudes with annoyingly weak arms/backpacks. It's just more trouble than it's worth.
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Jan 13, 2010 03:25
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Ezekiel_980 posted:Hell I can see no reason why not, more work but would make for much more variety in game options. I know someone posted a site with 100 magnets for $10.00, anyone still have that link? http://www.kjmagnetics.com/ Depending on the strength, 100 of the 1/8" x 1/16" discs can run you $9 to $13. I like using the N52 for most of my projects so far. Don't bother with the D21SH since they hold less weight and cost more since they're extra heat resistant (which really shouldn't be an issue). *Edit: Beaten
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Jan 13, 2010 03:25
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If you're going to get 1/8" diameter, get some of the 3/32" thickness ones too. They'll probably be too thick for some things but when you can use them, they'll be much stronger. For example, 1/16" thickness is doable (sort of) for power armor marines, like a sergeant with swapable PF/power weapon, but is too weak for terminator arms. 3/32" holds my TH/SS arms pretty solidly.
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Jan 13, 2010 03:28
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Crap, I just ordered these http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=ZD4 I take it they are gonna be too small?
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Jan 13, 2010 03:37
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I think thats pretty much the size that everyone uses
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Jan 13, 2010 03:42
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Yeah some putzing around with the conversions gives me about that same size just in metric.
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Jan 13, 2010 03:45
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Does anyone have a good technique for painting the 'living' parts on possessed space marines? Specifically Word Bearers chapter. I'm having troubles coming up with a technique...
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Jan 13, 2010 04:06
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The item listing says "Approximately 1/8" x 1/16" thick" but in the pic it looks thicker than that, so you'll probably be ok.
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Jan 13, 2010 04:07
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Worse comes to worse, you just stack a couple and it works out about the same.
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Jan 13, 2010 04:24
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Ezekiel_980 posted:Crap, I just ordered these Would these work for stuff like Skinks, Saurus warriors, and Orks?
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Jan 13, 2010 06:01
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MinionOfCthulhu posted:Would these work for stuff like Skinks, Saurus warriors, and Orks? No these aren't compatible with Orcs or Orks. They recently released a patch so they'll work with Skinks, no word on compatibility with Saurus warriors though, wait for service pack 2 if I were you. Yes for orc/ks, depending on length of arms you might want thicker/double for the others, I'm not sure.
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Jan 13, 2010 07:21
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It'd be really cool if some of you magnet abusers could put together a FAQ for what size magnets you use for different things (I'm guessing metal hive tyrant arms will need stronger magnets than a plastic space marine). It'd be really useful to have some stuff about that added to the OP, or any links to good articles on it.
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Jan 13, 2010 13:53
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What would be the best way to strip enamel paint without damaging plastic? Simple Green's availability in the UK is terrible (they want £16 for a litre for it) (unless anyone knows a retail place that does it). I looked in my local Tesco and wasn't sure which of the various car engine cleaners, oven cleaners, acetone free nail polish removers etc would either remove the paint or dissolve the plastic and kill me in the process. Any tips? I have to remove this horrible paint job from my ship so I can redo it with all the tips from this thread!
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Jan 13, 2010 14:24
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Harkano posted:Any tips? I have to remove this horrible paint job from my ship so I can redo it with all the tips from this thread! Any pine based cleaner will do it. Or Dettol. I've had success with some cheap stuff called ZAMMO I got from a local crappy hardware/cleaning products store.
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Jan 13, 2010 14:43
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I swear by Fairy Power Spray for paint stripping. Spray on, leave overnight, attack with old toothbrush, job done. Plus, I'm sure you can get it in Tesco. Never tried it on enamels though.
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Jan 13, 2010 14:52
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Any pine based cleaner will do it. Or Dettol. I've had success with some cheap stuff called ZAMMO I got from a local crappy hardware/cleaning products store. Dettol all purpose cleaner? Or something else. They make craploads of stuff.
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Jan 13, 2010 14:57
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Whatever this stuff is. I don't really know if it'll work on enamels, so try Power Spray or something cheap first.
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Jan 13, 2010 15:07
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Ripper Swarm posted:I swear by Fairy Power Spray for paint stripping. Spray on, leave overnight, attack with old toothbrush, job done. Plus, I'm sure you can get it in Tesco. Never tried it on enamels though. fairy or cif power cream works awesomely. I've left metal stuff in it for a few days and the paint came off to a toothbrush with no trouble. I've only left plastic in overnight, which worked well with no damage but I don't know if it'll harm it if you leave it longer.
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Jan 13, 2010 15:17
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4 hour paint job, the metal looks horrible in the photo but really isn't that thick on the model.  Gonna try and get the gf to take better pictures a bit later. EDIT: My mate has also been painting up this Brood Lord, he want's a bit of C&C if anyone cares to offer it.  
dpack_1 fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Jan 13, 2010 |
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Jan 13, 2010 19:58
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Fyrbrand posted:The red is definitely an improvement. Personally I think magnetizing basic troops like that is pretty overkill (no offense Fix) but to each his own. If I might weigh in... I don't think I'd do it again. It's long, tedious work, the bonds, as MSP says, are weak, so you've got to continuously adjust the arms on your dudes, it's expensive in the long run, moreso than what you'd expect going into it, and it limits the posing you can do on your models. Really, you're probably better off just getting some more basic troops with the kit options you want and saving the magnets for the HQ/Elites that come with the extra bits and cost more to begin with. To clarify on the strength of the magnet bond, they're strong enough that I can grab it by the backpack and swing around a metal robed body based on a big ol chunk of rock, but offer so little resistance that that backpack will pretty much be at a jaunty angle for the entirety of any game it's deployed in. So strong, but not so strong, really.
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Jan 13, 2010 20:20
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Fix posted:To clarify on the strength of the magnet bond, they're strong enough that I can grab it by the backpack and swing around a metal robed body based on a big ol chunk of rock, but offer so little resistance that that backpack will pretty much be at a jaunty angle for the entirety of any game it's deployed in. So strong, but not so strong, really. I'm lazy so I'm not going out to measure the backpacks and figure out if it would work, but would there be enough material to use two magnets and keep the backpack clocked in the proper position?
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Jan 13, 2010 20:29
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Not really, and the idea of attempting to sink two magnets side by side without them flipping out of their holes while you're trying to glue them down and flinging superglue everywhere makes my skin crawl. Two other downsides: especially when you're doing just regular bolter arms, you're going to mix up which arms go with which models, and the tiniest of variation between the location of your drill holes and the angle of your magnet seating is going to mean that if you don't match the right arms up to the right bodies you're going to have some dudes holding their bolters in weird ways. After trying to match it up for a couple of minutes, you will give up and your opponent will have lost interest in the uniqueness of your project and ask you to stop wasting time. Also, if you are using plastic bodies, remember that the pull of these things is so strong that if your magnets are of opposite facing internally to the body they actually will slowly pull towards each other, even through the plastic. This makes it easy to get the magnets in when you're first drilling and setting the core bodies, but over time they will actually mush the plastic to get to one another. These magnets are actually very strong. It's one of the reasons I used all metal bodies. I imagine the same is true of magnetic repulsion and, if your glue bonds weaken over time, you might find your arm anchors ejecting themselves.
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Jan 13, 2010 20:45
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OK, I think I fixed my two problem "vets". For the Sarge, I redid the arms, so he has a power fist and bolter, both with Catachan arms to make it more balanced. I don't have a suitable right arm for the flamer , so I took the shoulder pad for the heavy bolter scout and put it on. It's still unbalanced with one Catachan arm and one scout arm, but since they'll be based like they're on a Death World jungle/swamp, I'm hoping they'll just look beat up like they've been out with no resupply for too long. If I thought I could make a convincing bandage, I'd put it on him, just to show why one arm has no sleeve.
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Jan 14, 2010 00:06
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Current thoughts are to give the skin a coat of Camo Green, carefully paint the recesses with Coat D'arms Green Ink, then apply an all-over coat of Thrakka Green wash, with application of final Camo Green edging. Turns out this is a terrible idea, and as far as I can see, Thrakka Green doesn't do poo poo.  Guess I'll tone it down with some shading, one odd Gaunt won't look too out of place in the swarm.
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Jan 14, 2010 00:18
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Fix posted:Not really, and the idea of attempting to sink two magnets side by side without them flipping out of their holes while you're trying to glue them down and flinging superglue everywhere makes my skin crawl. Yea, don't try and do this, it's an immense pain in the rear end. Even if you do them one at a time, when you're placing the second magnet you have to get it right into position immediately and then hold it there long enough for the glue to dry without getting yourself stuck to it as well. If you want to magnet something on without letting it spin/tilt, use one magnet, and then sink a pin into one side and drill a matching hole on the other part. The magnet will keep the thing together, and the pin acts as a stabilizer. Note that this is a huge pain in the rear end and probably not worth it for more than one or two models.
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Jan 14, 2010 00:21
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Guess I'll tone it down with some shading, one odd Gaunt won't look too out of place in the swarm. Everyone: "Hey, why is this one painted different?" You: "GOD drat IT." I'm not saying it's bad really, but I promise you, someone will notice.
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Jan 14, 2010 09:36
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 Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  Click here for the full 640x480 image. Crossposting because I really could use some basing advice/suggestions here.
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Jan 14, 2010 12:42
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I'd go with something dark, like grey rubble. Nothing green, though.
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Jan 14, 2010 12:50
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Fix posted:
drat, these are nice. Not the usual BLACK AND RED GOTHIC GRIM DARK SKULL SKULL SKULL colours. I'd say urban kinda bases, maybe medium or dark grey with occasional metals and rust.
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Jan 14, 2010 13:40
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Fix posted:
Jesus, all those near-identical minis are depressing. And not a topknot among them.
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Jan 14, 2010 15:04
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Fix posted:Crossposting because I really could use some basing advice/suggestions here. Snow and rock, with small patches of brown grass flock.
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Jan 14, 2010 17:13
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Whatever this stuff is. Picked up a cheaper Asda brand version of this stuff for £1. Will report back on success or failure. Thanks for the help everyone.
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Jan 14, 2010 18:32
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Ok since my Series 7s came in yesterday, anyone want to tell me how best to take care of them? I have a routine for cleaning brushes but don't really know if I'm doing it right. Now that I have actual good brushes I want to do it correctly.
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Jan 14, 2010 18:33
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