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I just clean my quickly every couple of minutes, and then very thorougly after finishing up. I also cleaned them with dishsoap once ever month or so. Ive heard a lot of people recommend specific brush soaps, like pink soap
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# ? Jan 14, 2010 18:50 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 16:20 |
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Fyrbrand posted:Ok since my Series 7s came in yesterday, anyone want to tell me how best to take care of them? I have a routine for cleaning brushes but don't really know if I'm doing it right. Now that I have actual good brushes I want to do it correctly. DON'T DIP IT IN SUPERGLUE
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# ? Jan 14, 2010 18:55 |
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The Masters' Brush Cleaner owns, and a big tub of it will last you literally forever. I have one from 15 years ago that is still 2/3rds full.
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# ? Jan 14, 2010 19:06 |
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stabbington posted:The Masters' Brush Cleaner owns, and a big tub of it will last you literally forever. I have one from 15 years ago that is still 2/3rds full. After dipping my S7 brush in superglue, I used this stuff (alternating washing in LA's Totally Awesome to weaken the glue) to get the brush in a good enough quality that my brother thinks it's the best brush he owns.
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# ? Jan 14, 2010 19:13 |
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Its interesting that despite all the synthetic materials we have in 2010, good ole dead weasel hair is still by far the best material for acrylic/watercolor brushes. The bigger s7 brushes (like filbert, large artists sizes) are ridiculously expensive
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# ? Jan 14, 2010 20:00 |
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:Jesus, all those near-identical minis are depressing. I suicided like three times trying to finish these. They're so goddamn boring. So dark grey for the bases. That sounds pretty good.
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# ? Jan 14, 2010 20:13 |
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stabbington posted:The Masters' Brush Cleaner owns, and a big tub of it will last you literally forever. I have one from 15 years ago that is still 2/3rds full. You just reminded me I found a little sample sized container of it at an artist supply place. I totally forgot I bought it, but it must be hanging around somewhere in my nerd closet. Even that tiny little thing would last me a year or two.
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# ? Jan 14, 2010 20:49 |
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I "fixed" my hosed up Gaunt in about 2 minutes, and honestly - I think I might just paint them all this way. It sounds like more steps but I worked as quickly as I possibly could and still got something that I'm pretty happy with. So I guess the current plan is Black undercoat Catachan Green base coat Coat d'arms green wash in crevices (or all over it doesn't really matter tbh) Camo Green coat Two washes of Thrakka Green A couple of very watered down Camo Green / Catachan green shadow passes where it makes sense. Edging + final highlight with thinned Camo Green, feathered where necessary Thrakka green around edges of chitin and wherever the shading needs blending
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# ? Jan 14, 2010 21:12 |
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:I "fixed" my hosed up Gaunt in about 2 minutes, and honestly - I think I might just paint them all this way. It sounds like more steps but I worked as quickly as I possibly could and still got something that I'm pretty happy with. So I guess the current plan is Sounds good. Piiiiics
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# ? Jan 14, 2010 22:13 |
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# ? Jan 14, 2010 22:56 |
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Mr Beens posted:Sounds good. It SOUNDS good, but it doesn't LOOK that great, since I was going for speed more than anything else.
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# ? Jan 14, 2010 22:59 |
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Awww, he's catching snowflakes/terrible spores with his tongue. And i really like that colour for the warpstone stuff, PV.
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# ? Jan 14, 2010 23:06 |
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Guess what? I made some molds! As promised, here is a photo tutorial on my first venture into the land of resin casting. As it turns out, an awesome company called Alumilite makes a starter kit of sorts for resin casting. For $70, you get the following: Two part resin, two part silicone, silicone-on-silicone mold release, three measuring cups, a portioning spoon, two stirring sticks and a freakin' pound of modeling clay. Not included are some help and information manuals, which have some easy to follow instructions and helpful tips on mold making and casting. Really, this has to be the best investment for those starting out with mold-making. Not only it has everything in it that you could need to make a mold (well, mostly everything), but it's pretty cheap all things considered. Well, enough of that: on to the fun stuff! Following the instructions, I made two mold casings using PVC pipe, some plasticard for bottoms, and modeling clay to seal the mold to prevent the silicone from spilling out. I affixed the rings to the plasticard with a bit of superglue--not a lot, as I wanted to be able to get the rings off again--and on the inside of the molds I put a thin line of wood glue. Wood glue is strong, non-porous, and doesn't bond to plastic or silicone, all attributes that make it perfect to seal a ring mold. Lastly, I attached my masters to the bottom of the mold with just a dab of superglue, in this case some slate bases that I have been working on. after mixing the two part silicone completely, I poured it into the ring mold. The molds were big enough that I simply added the smaller bottle to the larger one and stirred them together. The instructions specify that the two should be a 10:1 ratio, and they pretty much already are. After mixing, I poured the silicone into the mold from only one side. This caused the silicone to naturally wrap around all of the bases. The poured silicone looks like this. While the instructions didn't specify to do so, I carefully agitated the whole mold to shake out any large air bubbles. You'll want to do this, especially molds with a lot of deep negative spaces, to avoid air bubbles sticking to the masters. After the mold cured overnight, I used some rubbing alcohol to use as a lubricant to help the mold release from the PVC ring. Rubbing alcohol makes silicone extremely slick, which is pretty handy for both getting the mold to release and to pull the masters from the mold as well. As you can see, some of the masters broke during the de-molding process, but it's an easy fix. Unfortunately, slate also has a habit of flaking off, and the insides of the mold still had bits of stone wedged into them. A bit of rubbing alcohol and some cotton swabs got them out. While I suspect most things won't leave crap inside your molds, I do suggest cleaning them before using them for the first time. The resin itself comes in a light side (A) and a dark side (B). The B side needs to be shaken vigorously before pouring into a cup. I poured A into B, and using a mixing stick, stirred both of them together until uniform. It ends up looking like cola when mixed completely, as you can see in this picture. After mixing, pour quickly and carefully, as you have only 90 seconds until the magic starts. Like I said, the magic happens fast. In the time it took for me to pour the last mold and pick up the camera, the resin had begun to cure. The resin itself is kind of smelly, so if you are sensitive to that sort of thing, work in a ventilated area. After a few minutes, the resin will turn to a uniform color, and ready to be released from the mold. A bit of wiggling will make them easy enough to release without any sort of release agent, but if you have a lot of negative spaces, using some rubbing alcohol, compressed air or a before-casting release agent will help out greatly. Really, making your own resin casts is simple, easy and fun, and it really does help that Alumilite takes out a lot of the frustrations for you by making a starter kit. Their website also has a bunch of video tutorials, which is nice. It's always better to see someone do something, rather than read about it. If anyone has any questions about any of this crap, feel free to ask!
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 05:23 |
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HEY FIX! Do you have any tips on magnetizing bases? I'm currently working on some boyz for gorkamorka, and it'd be cool if I could use them in 40K as well. Since they are probably going to be mounted on flat plasticard, I was wondering if it would be feasible to put some magnetic fridge magnet plates under them, and then mounting a strong magnet under the 40K base. Do you know if this would be doable, or is the fridge magnet going to be too weak?
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 09:06 |
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It's doable but it will be annoying.
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 09:32 |
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Sole.Sushi posted:The poured silicone looks like this. While the instructions didn't specify to do so, I carefully agitated the whole mold to shake out any large air bubbles. You'll want to do this, especially molds with a lot of deep negative spaces, to avoid air bubbles sticking to the masters. An alternative to agitating is to brush some of the silicone over the models by hand before you pour
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 09:40 |
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Combaticus posted:HEY FIX! Haven't done it. Can't say, though I can't think of any reason to use a big old fridge magnet when you could base them on sheet metal instead. Hell, use a bit of that instead of the Plasticard, if that's your current plan. That might work. I'd use a larger magnet under the base if you're going to go this route, in the 1/4"-1/2" diameter range. You can paint sheet steel just as easy as you can paint plasticard (it might scratch off easier, but hey). Someone else could probably tell you better. Those guys who've switched between fantasy and 40k with Demons, for example. Edit: So is there a good alternative for a clearcoat to Testors Dullcoat? As in something that doesn't come in a two-ounce can for eleventy billion dollars? Fix fucked around with this message at 11:40 on Jan 15, 2010 |
# ? Jan 15, 2010 10:02 |
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Fix posted:
Plasti-kote krystal clear flat spray varnish. You'll be able to find it in art shops and at least in the UK, DIY places sell it. It's flat as all hell, not even a bit satin.
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 11:49 |
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Huh. Looks to be UK only.
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 11:53 |
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PaintVagrant posted:This is so loving gorgeous well, as gorgeous as a Skaven can be. The glowing mark on the rat really sells it though.
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 12:00 |
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Sole.Sushi posted:Guess what? I made some molds! Very interesting. How long do you think that resin will last you?
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 12:44 |
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Fix posted:Huh. Looks to be UK only. I'm sure you can get it in the US, maybe under a slightly different branding - I'm pretty sure some stateside goon reccomended it a while back too.
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 12:59 |
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Sole.Sushi posted:Almost forgot to mention this before, but if anyone finds this kit or the equivalent available in the UK, let me know I've done some mold making before but because I couldn't find a starter 'kit' then I only got so far as buying a bunch of silicone and making molds. Never got round to sourcing decent resin in manageable quantities to cast in. I ended up doing practice casts in plaster enri fucked around with this message at 13:52 on Jan 15, 2010 |
# ? Jan 15, 2010 13:42 |
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Enri, have a look at this, see if it has what you need? If you just want resin I'd have a look here instead. Also, : gently caress yeah. Actually, these are the first time I've bought multipart plastic mans for ages, I'm quite impressed, all over again. Also, the Defiler owns so hard but I'm going to see if I can turn it into a crouching knight titan sized device.
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 14:00 |
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Sole Sushi you need Plat
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 14:51 |
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A goon asked me to make them some bases like the ones I made for my terminators. This is about half way through, there will be 30 x 30mm, 2 x 60mm. Loads of tiny rivets still needed. Click here for the full blurry 800x553 image. Some of these are better than mine I might go whole hog & do these bases for my 30 csm as well.
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 15:10 |
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Cakefool posted:Enri, have a look at this, see if it has what you need? If you just want resin I'd have a look here instead. Looks good but I see no mention of silicone (I see latex but ehh... all my previous experience and all the guides I've gobbled up in the past have always mentioned using silicone) I might just plump up the cash for a big old vat of silicone seeing as what I've got left is probably well out of date and then pick up some resin too. I'll just cobble together whatever else I need out of household goodies Cakefool posted:A goon asked me to make them some bases like the ones I made for my terminators... I need whatever crazy tool it is that you've got to cut out perfectly formed circles enri fucked around with this message at 15:18 on Jan 15, 2010 |
# ? Jan 15, 2010 15:14 |
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Cakefool posted:Also, the Defiler owns so hard but I'm going to see if I can turn it into a crouching knight titan sized device. If you haven't already seen it, this warseer project log might interest you.
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 15:25 |
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Danger - Octopus! posted:If you haven't already seen it, this warseer project log might interest you. Indeed, that does interest me. Very much so. enri posted:I need whatever crazy tool it is that you've got to cut out perfectly formed circles Ner ner ne ner ner. I bought a circle cutter (like a slide/compass with blades) for like £5, but it twists & starts cutting spirals under 13mm radius. Any smaller than that a leather punch would be better. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Jan 15, 2010 |
# ? Jan 15, 2010 17:34 |
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Cakefool: if you ever get around to casting the 25mm versions of those, I will definitely buy some for infinity models
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 17:49 |
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Cakefool posted:Indeed, that does interest me. Very much so. Genius.. ordering one now Completely unrelated question, what is it that people use with weathering powder to spread it around, is it white spirit? and if so, will turpentine substitute be a likely er... substitute?
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 17:55 |
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Cakefool: Are those just standard platicard tubes or did you find a more economical way to get plastic tubes.Fix posted:Edit: Protip: At least right now, if you buy anything (even a <$1 item) at Michaels, you get a 40% off any one item coupon. And, at least at my local store, they carry Dullcoat in their plastic model section. You can get a can for $2.40 which is a tad more reasonable for such a tiny can. You'll also get another 40% off coupon. Also, what brand do people use for their gloss coat? I know Testors sells a can the size of their Dullcoat but that seems a little pricey for something I've never heard of going bad. MasterSlowPoke fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Jan 15, 2010 |
# ? Jan 15, 2010 18:18 |
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Has anyone built meltagun barrels out of styrene tubing? I am looking at this plastruct site and I know I need 3/32" tubing for the outer part of the barrel but I can't figure out what the inner diameter is and if i'll be able to use 1/8" rod or not. http://www.plastruct.com/Pages/OnlineCatalogDetail.lasso?GraphicKey=TBFS-3
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 18:22 |
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From that chart, it looks like a 1/8" rod will fit in a 3/32" almost perfectly.
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 18:27 |
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Cakefool: Are those just standard platicard tubes or did you find a more economical way to get plastic tubes. Plasticard. It's not bad if you do a fairly big order, plus I'm not actually using a lot of material for these. For example EMA models (UK plastruct) has 4.8mm O.D, 8 pack of 375mm long for £4.02 with Vat, that's 3m of plastic tube. Add some box, some girder & a second tube size & you're up to £15-18 for a similar amount of each. That'll last you a thousand conversion. Also, any plastic scraps I can get my hands on, broken pens, propelling pencils, bits of broken stationary etc. The purple circle is a bit from a tipex-tape dispenser
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 18:53 |
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MasterSlowPoke posted:From that chart, it looks like a 1/8" rod will fit in a 3/32" almost perfectly. Which numbers are you looking at? I can't figure out what H, T and W are supposed to mean with regards to outer and inner diameter.
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 18:54 |
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I've decided to convert my babyphant carnifex into a tyrannofex, on the basis that I might actually use the tyranno in a 1500pt list. Any ideas on what I could use as a starting point for the big honkin' gun? I don't trust my greenstuff skills enough to do anything beyond filling in joints and simple extensions.
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 19:00 |
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Chenghiz posted:Has anyone built meltagun barrels out of styrene tubing? I am looking at this plastruct site and I know I need 3/32" tubing for the outer part of the barrel but I can't figure out what the inner diameter is and if i'll be able to use 1/8" rod or not. Not sure what it is in old money but I just checked a plastic melta with my vernier & the outer barrel is 4.00mm, inner is 3.00mm, google tells me that's 5/32" & 15/128". That's not that useful Google, but thanks anyway
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 19:03 |
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Cakefool posted:Not sure what it is in old money but I just checked a plastic melta with my vernier & the outer barrel is 4.00mm, inner is 3.00mm, google tells me that's 5/32" & 15/128". Yeah you're right, I basically beed 3/32 for the smaller and 5/32 for the larger. Unfortunately it looks like either way I'll be left with a poo poo ton of extra tubing. I guess it'll go into the eventually-build-a-warhound pile. e: except I can't order from there. Where do you guys actually buy this poo poo? My local hobby shop doesn't have it. Chenghiz fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Jan 15, 2010 |
# ? Jan 15, 2010 19:09 |
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# ? Mar 29, 2024 16:20 |
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Question on rhino side doors, whats the best way to set them up so that they can still be opened?
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# ? Jan 15, 2010 19:14 |