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You Am I posted:One of my friends works at a large hobby store, and loves morons like the E-Maxx or TT-01 drifter guys. They'd blow up speedies and brushless motors, and come back the next week and buy more. Some of the drifters would have the cheek to ask for sponsorship Those guys and the hardcore racers who go all-out every week are the bread and butter of the industry. I wouldn't have a job without the bashers! So I love 'em, even if I do smirk at the obscene amounts of alloy and cash they might have all over their cars and trucks.
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Jan 13, 2010 12:10
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I never really 'got' cnc milled arms and whatnot. If you break a composite part while bashing, an aluminum part isn't going to solve that. At least composite parts will spring in minor impacts. Aluminum parts are just going to get bent. Or even worse, you could end up destroying more important / difficult to replace parts instead.
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Jan 13, 2010 21:24
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People like shiny stuff, and lots of them like to spend money that's burning a hole in their pocket, that's what aluminum stuff is about. Drifters and bashers (shiny + new + speed = good) are a different breed than racers (lightweight + new + speed = good), that's all.
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Jan 13, 2010 21:29
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I had a limited edition carbon fiber chassis in an rc10 back in 91-92. If they made it i had to have it back then. Now i just replace broken stuff with something better even though there are a million things i'd like to have, i realize i don't really need them. I really want a bully dog body, the 4wd wheels and white letter tires, and a nicer radio for my Slash but i don't need it.
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Jan 14, 2010 03:40
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So because I hate red cars, i stripped the 370z and put a few coats of flat black on it (yes its tired but I really do have a thing for flat black on Z cars). Should I rough up the paint before spraying Testor Dullcote on it? I can't decide.
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Jan 14, 2010 18:40
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Swordfish posted:So because I hate red cars, i stripped the 370z and put a few coats of flat black on it (yes its tired but I really do have a thing for flat black on Z cars). Should I rough up the paint before spraying Testor Dullcote on it? I can't decide. I did my Nissan-GTR Xmods car in flat black originally and used Rustoleum. It creates a hard coat that helps with all the crashing that occurs with a hopped up car. Just give it a quick re-spray every couple of bashes and you're all set.
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Jan 15, 2010 22:26
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James Woods posted:I did my Nissan-GTR Xmods car in flat black originally and used Rustoleum. It creates a hard coat that helps with all the crashing that occurs with a hopped up car. Just give it a quick re-spray every couple of bashes and you're all set. Between the Dullcote and the paint itself, it came out looking pretty nice, certainly good enough to run around my house and chase my dog. Its taken a few good knocks into walls and dog bowls and table legs and nothing has scuffed or chipped yet. I got and installed the RS AWD kit today, took goddamn forever because the screws that hold the center of the battery tray apparently screw right into the driveshaft tunnel, and cause the driveshaft to bind. So I'm running without those screws now, which means the tray can slide back and forth at will, but it doesn't seem to make a whole lot of difference. The awd upgrade sure changed the handling, as you would expect. It doesn't seem to turn as tightly, but I may also have screwed up the tie rod, as it was, ahem, willful during the install.
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Jan 18, 2010 02:50
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So I see lots of discussion about cars / trucks, and this thread has almost convinced me to get a Traxxas Slash in a few months, but what about those of us with boats? Because I've got a pretty awesome cheapy that has twin motors, and it will haul balls across the water while making one hell of a noise. I'd seriously wager it does 20mph as is, and i'm considering buying two brushless motors to mod it and see if I can get it moving even quicker 
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Jan 18, 2010 08:08
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I have two boats. And my family does family reunion races. Since it only happens once a year every family desperately tries to one up each other. And since we essentially run unlimited rules things get pretty wild. We usually sink one and break a ton of poo poo every year. It's awesome.
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Jan 18, 2010 08:26
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What exactly is the difference between the 1:16 Slash and the 1:16 revo? from what i saw in the store holding the models they are different wheels and bodies (and also chassis) but mechanically/electronics wise, which is better?
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Jan 18, 2010 10:41
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Laserface posted:What exactly is the difference between the 1:16 Slash and the 1:16 revo? from what i saw in the store holding the models they are different wheels and bodies (and also chassis) but mechanically/electronics wise, which is better? The slash also has narrow arms and different pushrods for the rocker arm. The chassis, motor, drivetrain, etc. is identical. Because of the size of them, and how much power is stuffed into them the E-REVO is a better choice. The extra width of the suspension and the bigger tires allow it to handle "real world" surfaces better than the slash. The mini slash just gets thrown around way too much. Were you looking at Brushless or Brushed versions?
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Jan 18, 2010 16:48
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CellPro Multi4 just arrived. Mini-review after I build a new power supply. The converted ATX supply I was using went dead at the track the other night.
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Jan 18, 2010 21:44
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kuffs posted:CellPro Multi4 just arrived. Mini-review after I build a new power supply. The converted ATX supply I was using went dead at the track the other night. Of course being an electric dude, I have a totally pro Much More 24A power supply. Nice tiny switching power supply in a cool blue anodised blue aluminium case, goes well with my Tamiya gear 
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Jan 18, 2010 22:24
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Oh you're one of THOSE guys  all matching everything. Have you gone so far as to paint an Ott-Lite or transmitter with your race paint job?
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Jan 18, 2010 23:19
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krushgroove posted:Oh you're one of THOSE guys BTW, you said that you're an "HPI Fan" on facebook, I posted some pictures of my Blitz on that page like a month ago. If you wanna dig around to look me up, that would be cool.  Click here for the full 589x800 image. Apparently the polycarbonate doesn't appreciate brushless speeds/crashes in 20*F weather.  Also, the 5T front arms don't like 35* weather. It snapped like a pretzel 45 seconds after starting it. RPM front arm is sitting right here on my desk to go home today.
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Jan 18, 2010 23:51
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krushgroove posted:Oh you're one of THOSE guys
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Jan 19, 2010 00:57
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Somewhat Heroic posted:The slash also has narrow arms and different pushrods for the rocker arm. The chassis, motor, drivetrain, etc. is identical. Because of the size of them, and how much power is stuffed into them the E-REVO is a better choice. The extra width of the suspension and the bigger tires allow it to handle "real world" surfaces better than the slash. The mini slash just gets thrown around way too much. Were you looking at Brushless or Brushed versions? Was looking for something that I could play with occasionally in the yard/street, not competitive or anything like that. i might just get the larger slash + brushless since itd work out about the same price and still look how i want it to look and do the stuff i want it to do.
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Jan 19, 2010 01:01
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Laserface posted:i might just get the larger slash + brushless since itd work out about the same price and still look how i want it to look and do the stuff i want it to do. That's a good idea, especially if you're just bashing. The normal slash is already a blast to drive, and it's even better with a brushless system.
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Jan 19, 2010 01:27
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Sgt. Squeaks: I have a TC4 on the way and it doesn't have a body. We should work together to resolve this. I am sick of seeing the same Mazda 6 or Intrepid body on every car at the track. I think a BMW in silver with blue and red stripes or an Impreza done up like Ken Block's.
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Jan 19, 2010 19:34
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krushgroove, you or your crew might be interested in this http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade/361719-hpi-super-f1-w-spare-chassis.html
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Jan 20, 2010 16:45
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Very cool! Great price for a collector. I'm sure there's pictures somewhere of Shawn Ireland's molded carbon fiber chassis for the Super F1 that was done for a Thunderdrome Insane Speed Run...it was done in the mid-90's and fit under the body. Must have been a bitch to work on but it looks really cool!
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Jan 20, 2010 17:19
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kuffs posted:krushgroove, you or your crew might be interested in this http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade/361719-hpi-super-f1-w-spare-chassis.html That is unbelievably tempting.
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Jan 20, 2010 18:29
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So in my spare time I have been building/designing a website and a concept behind the best HPI Baja site available. I have a business model set up to where we will have some of our profit go directly back into the Baja community through advertising for a lot of the smaller manufacturers that can't really pay for the ads because of margins. Also we are going to try and become a central hub for events, races, news, etc. I have a forum set up, nobody has really posted, and I just finally uploaded stock inventory to begin showing up on our website. It still has hour and hours worth of work to do. Check out the Dark Soul and Team FastEddy product lines for what has received the most attention (description, vids, pics, etc.). Let me know what you guys think https://www.bajasonly.com
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Jan 22, 2010 21:35
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Website design looks fantastic, and I hope it takes off. I'm going to stop looking because if I do, it's going to force me to take the plunge I've been avoiding and go buy an SS.
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Jan 22, 2010 21:42
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kuffs posted:CellPro Multi4 just arrived. Mini-review after I build a new power supply. The converted ATX supply I was using went dead at the track the other night. I figured out what went wrong with it while building another one. I had installed some lovely banana sockets in the metal housing. During my trips to and from the track, the nuts had come a little loose and they were annoying me. I had popped the case open and used a bit of blue threadlock on the retaining nut and cinched it down. Well, I forgot that loctite is basically CA glue and CA glue will make lovely plastic brittle if it gets into contact with it. The insulators on the banana sockets were this same lovely plastic and had shattered. This let the pos and neg posts short out against the housing. Thankfully, ATX power supplies are pretty good about shutting down the circuit in the event of a short, but it wasn't fast enough to save itself  I have a new, more powerful, converted ATX supply now. And this time I used nicer banana posts with lockwashers 
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Jan 22, 2010 22:49
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Somewhat Heroic posted:https://www.bajasonly.com Bonus video of solving the problem of track size being limited by how far you can see from the podium: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ck45SgoNEHw
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Jan 23, 2010 01:14
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Somewhat Heroic posted:So in my spare time I have been building/designing a website and a concept behind the best HPI Baja site available. I have a business model set up to where we will have some of our profit go directly back into the Baja community through advertising for a lot of the smaller manufacturers that can't really pay for the ads because of margins. Also we are going to try and become a central hub for events, races, news, etc. I have a forum set up, nobody has really posted, and I just finally uploaded stock inventory to begin showing up on our website. It still has hour and hours worth of work to do. Check out the Dark Soul and Team FastEddy product lines for what has received the most attention (description, vids, pics, etc.). Let me know what you guys think Maybe you're the right guy to ask this. I've been wanting to get a Baja for a while now but I have just one problem. My wife will loving divorce me if I pay $1000+ up front for an R/C car. The funny thing is that my SC-10 is quickly approaching the 1k mark by itself but that's over a year of tuning it in and slowly buying parts. My solution to this was why not build a Baja entirely out of hop up parts? It seems like most of the Bajas I see out there on the forums have 1-5% of their original parts left once they've gotten it dialed in. It seems like a waste to pay a grand for what will only become a box of spares and broken parts once I have the rig I want. Besides, this way I can order a couple parts every week and slowly put the thing together taking all the time I need getting it just right. A year later I have a sweet Baja that slowly rose from the primordial ooze of my workbench and the Mrs. is none the wiser. Does this seem like a viable way to go about a build and if so, what parts would you recommend for a good balance between cost and durability? This thing is going to be a dune basher and I have no plans of competing with it so I just want it to be built like a brick shithouse so I'm not always throwing money at it.
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Jan 24, 2010 23:32
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Used ones go for about $600. Dunno if that's any easier for your wife.
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Jan 24, 2010 23:57
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I just bought a second Slash for some hardcore racing action. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280455396133 I have the speed control from my other one so it will be running same day. My other one is vxl so i have the stock stuff to put in this one. I'm loving the other one with the brushless system and i couldn't really pass this one up for the money.
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Jan 25, 2010 04:40
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Here's a really clean looking SS for $650 http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade/358091-f-s-like-new-baja-5bss.html.
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Jan 25, 2010 19:25
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Every single time I see pictures of Bajas, I get closer to selling all my RC stuff and getting an SS. Some day I'll seriously stop just talking about it in this thread and buy one.
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Jan 26, 2010 07:11
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edit: nevermind! http://www.revolectrix.com/pic/Cellpro%20Multi4%20Charger%20FAQs.pdf kuffs fucked around with this message at 07:34 on Jan 28, 2010 |
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Jan 27, 2010 18:27
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James Woods posted:Maybe you're the right guy to ask this. I've been wanting to get a Baja for a while now but I have just one problem. My wife will loving divorce me if I pay $1000+ up front for an R/C car. The funny thing is that my SC-10 is quickly approaching the 1k mark by itself but that's over a year of tuning it in and slowly buying parts. My solution to this was why not build a Baja entirely out of hop up parts? It seems like most of the Bajas I see out there on the forums have 1-5% of their original parts left once they've gotten it dialed in. It seems like a waste to pay a grand for what will only become a box of spares and broken parts once I have the rig I want. Besides, this way I can order a couple parts every week and slowly put the thing together taking all the time I need getting it just right. A year later I have a sweet Baja that slowly rose from the primordial ooze of my workbench and the Mrs. is none the wiser. I would say that there is no wrong way to build a Baja, but a bunch of cheap-o manufacturers showed up to the game (I'm looking at you Integy, and Golden Horizons). If you stick with the original manufacturers of Baja upgrades you can't go wrong (Team FastEddy, DarkSoul Racing, Turtle Racing, Hostile Racing, Team GoNads, etc). How you go about beginning the build is really up to you. I bought the SS Baja when it was released and had an absolute blast building the thing. The Behemoth buggy is RC Engineering perfection. When the 5T came out I knew I had to have it, so I sold my SS and bought the truck (lack of space). If you get one used, there are some out there that have been totally abused, and others that have barely been driven. Out of the box, there are really only a handful of the "necessary upgrades" that I would imagine totals up around...300 bucks? It has been so long since I've paid retail that I kind of have a skewed perception of reality. The things that need to be addressed would you be the clutch holder, axle extenders, better dog bones, a couple of Turtle Racing braces, RPM front arms (at least) and a decent radio. The thing weighs in about 25 pounds bone stock, so it comes pretty much "built like the brick shithouse". If you are pretty moderate on your build of your kit and how you maintain it, I can pretty much guarantee that you will spend less than 95% of the yahoos out there buying nitro Monster Trucks. I would say with the aftermarket upgrades I have put on my 5T (a good chunk of them being more eye candy) probably is under 500 bucks. You can find pretty much any of the Baja kits brand new ready to go for about $1000 or less right now. Even if you drove it box stock you would not be disappointed. I am convinced that the Baja platform is the best radio control car ever made. Once I get the Bajasonly site going full swing I will definitely put out an SAGOON discount code to hook you guys up. tl:dr - I would start with a good base and upgrade from there. You can spend a second mortgage building one of these things if you wanted.
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Jan 27, 2010 20:34
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Can you guys recommend a good forum for RC helicopters? All the ones i have found using google are pretty terrible thanks
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Jan 27, 2010 22:34
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rcgroups.com seems to be all about aircraft. MIght poke around there for helis.
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Jan 27, 2010 22:44
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rctech.net I think has a good aircraft subforum.
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Jan 27, 2010 22:47
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rcgroups has an incredible heli community. Multiple sections broken up by size, huge threads for all of the popular airframes, great community.
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Jan 28, 2010 06:15
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a friend got me hooked on RC cars, so i stormed out and bought a Tamiya super fighter G. then i bought a Tamiya gravel hound.  and a TT-01E, so i've pretty much got every base covered now. although i wanna sell my gravel hound and super fighter so i can get this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvcxBz1bOuI&feature=related beast of a brushless truggy. This hobby is a giant moneypit, but hot drat it sure is fun geeking out at some field or parking lot and watching one's car going faster than everyone else.
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Jan 28, 2010 10:12
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Who is Haiboxing? Please don't waste your money on Chinese knockoffs. Buy the real deal. You'll save money on spare parts and the build quality will be a lot better. If you want a brushless truggy, a Traxxas E-Revo Brushless Edition is a great choice. They're rock solid, everyone on the planet carries parts for them, and they're stupid fast.
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Jan 28, 2010 16:46
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kuffs posted:Who is Haiboxing? Please don't waste your money on Chinese knockoffs. Buy the real deal. You'll save money on spare parts and the build quality will be a lot better. isnt every car made in china these days? either way, nearly every RC store here in Denmark carries Haiboxing products, so aftermarket support is not an issue, and parts are also pretty cheap. that said, the traxxas is goddamn sexy, but so expensive the Stealth X09 is 280 bucks while the traxxas 750 bucks. that's quite the difference.
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Jan 28, 2010 21:31
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