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Did these a while ago, but I don't think I ever bothered with photos. It's my Mordheim Warband: Vampire! Necromancer!  Ghouls!  A hideous dire wolf! (That awful gap isn't nearly as obvious in real life without the flash.)  Zombies!  Bikini dregs!
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Jan 20, 2010 04:29
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Has anyone got a good recipe to make a really ancient looking golden metal? It's going to go with oranges and reds.
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Jan 20, 2010 04:34
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moths posted:
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Jan 20, 2010 04:41
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^^^^^ Since gold doesn't deteriorate, it could be really shiny despite how old you want the armor to be. If you want to weather it a bit, you could stipple on some dust-colored paint or weathering powders to take the edge off the shine. Due to a very busy work schedule, I won't be able to post a fur tutorial until Thursday at the earliest. But, it will get done if people are still interested in it.
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Jan 20, 2010 04:50
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wildfire1 posted:Has anyone got a good recipe to make a really ancient looking golden metal? It's going to go with oranges and reds. Hrm. Its a few steps, but try this: mithril wash with griphone sepia thinned wash of turq in the recesses sepia again devlan if there isnt enough contrast or, a quicker way: drybrush the area turq drybrush gold over it
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Jan 20, 2010 05:20
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In response to the lizardman: Don't paint them one by one, paint in batches. I go in fives but its personal preference
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Jan 20, 2010 06:28
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moths posted:
Great warband! (Mordheim  ) But I really like these dudes.
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Jan 20, 2010 06:42
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The Saddest Robot posted:I started cutting out my Space Hulk Genestealers last night and now I feel compelled to ditch the sand/rocks base (original plan was to have thin rocks angled outwards to give the impression of a crater) and go with a space ship/hulk themed base. I don't think tech is done enough since it's so easy to paint rocks/ground. Plus the idea of a Trygon bursting through the floor of a space station is pretty priceless. I'm not really sure how I would go about doing it though. right now I'm thinking about bent I beams and bent tiles forming a ring around the Trygon. I'm not sure about that, though. If he burst up out of the floor he wouldn't be sitting in the hole, since the hole would have to be big enough and deep enough to accommodate him. But I do want to give some impression that this is what the Trygon did. Any ideas or suggestions? Trygon has a tail right? Have a large access hatch thrown back & edges torn apart, majority of trygon through the hatch, tail wrapped around a large beam/column. Build the base up about 25mm in depth. Alternatively, where are you, what base size, I'll make you one.
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Jan 20, 2010 07:13
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If anyone here makes a board out of foamcore like I did, glue it to something rigid like mdf first. Mine has some serious warping in it. I can probably make do for the tournament Sunday but it still kinda looks poo poo.
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Jan 20, 2010 07:37
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What I have seen people do is glue it to a cheap wooden serving tray. It gives you rigidity + handles for easy transport.
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Jan 20, 2010 07:41
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Cakefool posted:Trygon has a tail right? Have a large access hatch thrown back & edges torn apart, majority of trygon through the hatch, tail wrapped around a large beam/column. Build the base up about 25mm in depth. I'm in the Seattle area. Trygon wrapped around a beam or column tilted at an angle could work. I might work up some sketches. Painted the head up to bonewhite/menoth white. I might keep it there and reserve pure menoth white for the highlights. I just need to touch up the teeth, eyes and the inside of the mouth and the head is done. I decided to try my hand at greenstuff again. Turns out it's a lot easier to do when you wet it with some water.  My Carnifex->Tyrannofex now has complete limbs with joints. Now just to figure out what I'm going to do for the head and find/design a bigass gun for him.
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Jan 20, 2010 10:39
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BuffaloChicken posted:I like the idea that the Tervigon is just a pipe with a head.
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Jan 20, 2010 11:33
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Ahaha. Oh Bell of Lost Souls.quote:I'm still using pieces of terrain for my Mycetic Spores, but I've stumbled across a really cool option! Our friend Black Matt (from Black Matt's Black Legion Blog) is selling hand-crafted Mycetic Spores on his website. He's currently laid-up from surgery and came up with a way to supplement his income while he recovers -- so ordering from him would not only give you some cool models for your army, but also help out another great contributor to the community. So if you've got some extra cash and need some Mycetic Spores, here's a great place to get them!  $10 + $10 postage. For a "hand crafted" Styrofoam egg covered in spray foam. SOLD. I was planning to make my own spores out of hollow styrofoam eggs but this almost makes me want to give up the idea.
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Jan 20, 2010 12:16
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Gotta love the sob story that goes with it edit: missed this first time round The Saddest Robot posted:It's pretty simple (in theory). Ok, didn't need the guide on how to lay paint down, just whatever paints you'd used  but thanks all the same, definitely like the look and the orange really suits it.
enri fucked around with this message at 13:08 on Jan 20, 2010 |
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Jan 20, 2010 12:19
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ape smiling at me. The Pyrovore looks great though. I've heard they are redoing the biovore model soon, hopefully it will look more like the pyro.
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Cakefool posted:Trygon has a tail right? Have a large access hatch thrown back & edges torn apart, majority of trygon through the hatch, tail wrapped around a large beam/column. Build the base up about 25mm in depth. I saw some guy's Trygon where he had it smashing through an overhead gantry. Don't have time to find it again right now, think it might have been on Warpshadow. Gravitas Shortfall posted:I was planning to make my own spores out of hollow styrofoam eggs but this almost makes me want to give up the idea. TBH, I think that's kinda the level of effort I'd want to put into a scratchbuilt mycetic spore. It is just a blob with some tentacles and that doesn't seem like it's going to be interesting to make at all, and unless you make the bestest scratchbuild ever you're going to be far less inclined to use it once the official model is out.
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Jan 20, 2010 14:18
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Shallow posted:It is just a blob with some tentacles and that doesn't seem like it's going to be interesting to make at all, and unless you make the bestest scratchbuild ever you're going to be far less inclined to use it once the official model is out. Have we had actual confirmation of plastic spores yet?
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Jan 20, 2010 14:33
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Cross-post from the 40K thread:   I think the Trygon is coming along pretty nicely. Still need to do touch-ups and comeplete the fading on the shell, but that's going to wait until the whole thing is painted and ready for final assembly (the torso is just sitting on the base for the photo).
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Jan 20, 2010 15:10
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Hey PV since you are an actual artist and not just a plastic spaceman one. What do you think the closest match for GW Desert Yellow would be from an real paint pallet? Yellow Ochre with a hint of medium brown? 
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Jan 20, 2010 16:03
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PierreTheMime posted:Was the Venomthrope as much of a pain to balance as it looks?
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Jan 20, 2010 16:30
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Indolent Bastard posted:Hey PV since you are an actual artist and not just a plastic spaceman one. maybe a raw umber + some white + a little yellow ochre
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Jan 20, 2010 16:44
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Was the Venomthrope as much of a pain to balance as it looks? My money's on there being a 5mm thick brass rod running right through that fucker, looks like a horrible horrible model to assemble 
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Jan 20, 2010 16:57
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Was the Venomthrope as much of a pain to balance as it looks? It's actually surprisingly stable. I'm actually still weirded out by how solid it stands. It doesn't wobble when moved and its center of gravity is way lower than the current Zoanthrope model. enri posted:My money's on there being a 5mm thick brass rod running right through that fucker, looks like a horrible horrible model to assemble Krazy glue and a little green-stuff. It was a bit of a bitch to assemble but no more than a Zoanthrope, which is still the golden standard for pewter models that make you hate life.
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Jan 20, 2010 16:59
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PierreTheMime posted:Krazy glue and a little green-stuff. It was a bit of a bitch to assemble but no more than a Zoanthrope, which is still the golden standard for pewter models that make you hate life. No sir, spending over an hour a piece filing the inside part of a Killa Kan to make it fit the back half is what made me hate life. And then I did it 5 more times .
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Jan 20, 2010 17:12
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Has anyone found a modelly use for crackle medium. I got some of the Vallejo stuff as mart of a mediums set (which also included some putty which is cutting down on the number of big ugly gaps in models - I can recommend it). I have had a go on my 2e Space marine who is the subject of all my experiments. As far as I have managed to use it it simply looks like bad paint application. With one crack near the top of the holster which was my testing ground. I applied in over a brown basecoat and then put yellow over it. I was pretty liberal and applied it to the whole surface. I had Bad Moon Orks with cracked paint over their armour in mind. Looking at the internet mankind is yet to have any success with this stuff, I was wondering if the esteemed cohort here had any thoughts.
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Jan 20, 2010 17:31
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Does anyone have experience with paints from Lefranc & Bourgeois? The bottles claim to offer good coverage but of course they would. They're acrylics, water-soluble, supposedly dry in thirty minutes and come in bottles of 50ml for a little over three dollars if anyone wondered. Obviously it's a French company so maybe it's not too available outside of Europe. They're sold to people interested more in regular craft painting etc but they're meant to be general-use acrylics for any number of surfaces and I don't know why they couldn't work for miniatures as well.
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Jan 20, 2010 18:12
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The Saddest Robot posted:I'm in the Seattle area. Trygon wrapped around a beam or column tilted at an angle could work. I might work up some sketches. I'm in the UK area, so good luck with this unless you like international postage
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Jan 20, 2010 19:01
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I R SMART LIKE ROCK posted:No sir, spending over an hour a piece filing the inside part of a Killa Kan to make it fit the back half is what made me hate life. And then I did it 5 more times Yay, I made my Necron tomb spider! *I move the tomb spider very slightly and EVERY SINGLE PIECE falls off *sob*
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Jan 20, 2010 20:51
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JackMack posted:Has anyone found a modelly use for crackle medium. I got some of the Vallejo stuff as mart of a mediums set (which also included some putty which is cutting down on the number of big ugly gaps in models - I can recommend it). In short, no. I wanted to use this stuff on some Eldar to give them a weathered/ancient look, but it was basically nothing but frustration. Like you've found, it doesn't really crackle in a way that is particularly interesting or striking on miniatures - this isn't really the fault of the product so much, it relies on a mechanism that just isn't well suited to the small, curved surfaces of our miniatures. The other serious issue I had was that it's very delicate. If you can get the stuff to crackle at all, you have to basically seal it at once and leave it be. You can't wash, drybrush, or highlight over it, because the crackle will flake apart and destroy the effect. I would love to find a way to make it work, but everything I have tried was either a mess or too unpredictable to be useful in painting more than one guy.
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Jan 20, 2010 21:17
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You could always seal it first and then do your washes and drybrushing, couldn't you? Not that it will make things better because crackle medium only works on larger surfaces.
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Jan 20, 2010 22:46
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Fix posted:You could always seal it first and then do your washes and drybrushing, couldn't you? That's possible I guess, I admit that I gave up making it work before giving that a try. The real problem is that while you can get the crackle work on smaller surfaces, its really unpredictable in doing so. So you basecoat ten guardians, put down the crackle, top coat them all - and them make 3-6 will actually get any interesting crackle effect. If you want the others to have, you have to strip and start again (or I guess keep stacking coats and losing details). I think it might be something that would work well on vehicles, where you have large surfaces that don't have a ton of inherent detailing. If I come back to it, I will try using it on a Wraithlord head to see if it works better on the large surface. But regular guys it would probably be easier to practice freehanding crackles and painting them on.
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Jan 20, 2010 23:05
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PierreTheMime posted:It was a bit of a bitch to assemble but no more than a Zoanthrope, which is still the golden standard for pewter models that make you hate life. Gnoblar Scraplauncher says you're dead wrong.
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Jan 21, 2010 00:41
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Ashcans posted:That's possible I guess, I admit that I gave up making it work before giving that a try. The real problem is that while you can get the crackle work on smaller surfaces, its really unpredictable in doing so. So you basecoat ten guardians, put down the crackle, top coat them all - and them make 3-6 will actually get any interesting crackle effect. If you want the others to have, you have to strip and start again (or I guess keep stacking coats and losing details). I was just playing around with an old screamer-killer carnifex months back, and found the crackle to be pretty unreliable even on some of the larger surfaces like that had. Wraithlord heads moght be big enough, but I'm not about to hold my breath.
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Jan 21, 2010 00:51
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Will someone please post those sweet as Ork Jumpaz? The ones with the crazy explosion/flames coming out the bottom....
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Jan 21, 2010 00:54
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MinionOfCthulhu posted:Gnoblar Scraplauncher says you're dead wrong. Can I put Necron Wraiths in the running?
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Jan 21, 2010 01:08
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Metal Steam tank. I have that still half assembled because I need to unglue it and take a power tool to get some of those surfaces smooth.
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Jan 21, 2010 12:13
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I R SMART LIKE ROCK posted:No sir, spending over an hour a piece filing the inside part of a Killa Kan to make it fit the back half is what made me hate life. And then I did it 5 more times I spent like 2 hours working on the only Kan I currently own, and it still doesn't fit together 
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Jan 21, 2010 16:31
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Iron Crowned posted:I spent like 2 hours working on the only Kan I currently own, and it still doesn't fit together Oh the horror. 
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Jan 21, 2010 17:09
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Jees you're all whiney little babies. I used to make money assembling killakans for kids. The trick was to use a sheet of 120 grit sandpaper taped to a workbench as a flattening surface, then take a hammer to the fucker after that. Superglue & GS to bond, bish bash bosh 1/2 hour each.
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Jan 21, 2010 17:25
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Cakefool posted:Jees you're all whiney little babies. I used to make money assembling killakans for kids. The trick was to use a sheet of 120 grit sandpaper taped to a workbench as a flattening surface, then take a hammer to the fucker after that. Superglue & GS to bond, bish bash bosh 1/2 hour each. That sounds really loving orky. And badass.
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Jan 21, 2010 17:54
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| # ? Apr 20, 2024 01:48 |
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Cakefool posted:Jees you're all whiney little babies. I used to make money assembling killakans for kids. The trick was to use a sheet of 120 grit sandpaper taped to a workbench as a flattening surface, then take a hammer to the fucker after that. Superglue & GS to bond, bish bash bosh 1/2 hour each. Actually towards the end I ended just clipping off the inner connection and green stuff/glue it together. But it's no fun if we can't bitch.
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Jan 21, 2010 18:15
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