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scapulataf posted:Yes, steel. Sorry I figuerd metal would be descriptive enough, but obviously not. Edit: Also, don't baby it. You want to cut into the metal, not just rub the cutting face of the drill onto the workpiece (which'll do a fine job of overheating and blunting it). Get the speed and lubrication right, and put your back into it. quote:This 118* that is the angle on the point I assume? InitialDave fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Jan 20, 2010 |
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Jan 20, 2010 19:44
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Yea, every day 118* HSS drill bits are what you'll want most likely. You can find quality ones all day long on ebay you probably dont even need to spring for cobalt. Try searching for USA drill, USA drill set, Cleveland drill set, etc. Do you have any drill sizes you use often? If, for example, you drill a 1" hole in 1" deep mild steel something like: THIS will drill faster, last longer, etc. and will pay for itself after about 2 drill bits. Only problem is you need to buy one whose shank will fit in your drilling machine/collets/taper.
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Jan 20, 2010 22:08
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RealKyleH posted:Ive used it and it was worthless. I said that above. On the flipside, I have one and it works great. It's not the highest quality piece of equipment, but it works. Why didn't you like it?
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Jan 20, 2010 22:16
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It took a while to get chipped drills past the chip and even when they did get they didnt cut as well as they did originally. These were 1/4-1/2" HSS drills drilling steel usually. I'd be willing to give it another shot though. What were you drilling?
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Jan 20, 2010 23:19
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Vermont American any good? I use their taps a fair amount.
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Jan 21, 2010 00:26
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My Equus 3130 came today! Been playing around with it, but I can't do much until I get an RS232-USB cable so I can make graphs and stuff on my computer. My car has no DTCs stored at all (didn't think it did, but there are some that won't immediately turn the CEL on) and the green light came on and said it would pass emissions like it was nothing. Not bad for a 180k mile car. I can't even imagine how much I'll save on diagnostics using this.
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Jan 21, 2010 01:33
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What seems to be everybody's favorite brand of toolbox? Matco, Snap-On, Mac, Cornwell, Craftsman, Kobalt, etc. I like the feel of Snap-On boxes, but Matco boxes seem to feel the most solid to me. Dunno. What do you guys think?
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Jan 21, 2010 03:33
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Anyone have any recommendations for nutsert/nut insert installation tools. I'm looking at a t-handle type setup, the wrench type installer and a rivet style setup. I need to drill out, collapse and reinstall a few nut serts on an aluminum body. The body/paint shop was susposed to do it and they didn't and now I'm in a situation where I'm going to have to get it touched up after I hack out old nutserts and reinstall. Then again, it's broken off steel screws stuck in them, maybe I can track down a decent diamond tipped bit and drill them out and retap the nutsert... They're #10's in size, so not much margin for error with a drill.. maybe I should pick up a dremmel... Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Jan 21, 2010 |
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Jan 21, 2010 03:41
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Kynetx posted:Vermont American any good? I use their taps a fair amount. The only taps I've ever used for products were black oxided OSG M18x1.5 taps for 0s bungs and while they did an awesome job I was power tapping 304SS and they'd last great. I dont really have a lot to compare them to. I've sorta been of the opinion that as long as its in a quality tooling company in a country thats known for quality manufacturing youll typically get decent products. I.E. USA, Germany, Austria, Japan JonReremy posted:What seems to be everybody's favorite brand of toolbox? Matco, Snap-On, Mac, Cornwell, Craftsman, Kobalt, etc. The big red toolbox at HF is higher quality than your entry level craftsman box. Ive never understood why people get super expensive tool boxes though. I have a Husky one that I bought used in great shape of Craigslist thats a step up from both of those. Id say its comparable to the kennedy chests they had at machinist school in terms of roller smoothness though neither were loaded up with air tools and hammers or anything EDIT: Now I really wanna try a drill doctor I cant even remember if it was a real one or a knockoff that sucked. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Jan 21, 2010 |
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Jan 21, 2010 05:32
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Yea I was using mine mainly for drilling out rusty nuts and bolts and poo poo on my old Chevy, and drilling firewall holes for customers stereo installs. I don't really drill any super heavy duty stuff past that, but sharpening with the drill doctor definitely seemed to help a bunch when bits started slowing down. I use the cheapest lovely little HF drill bits though. Maybe they don't work so well on nice ones? Lowclock fucked around with this message at 14:16 on Jan 21, 2010 |
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Jan 21, 2010 14:13
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RealKyleH posted:The big red toolbox at HF is higher quality than your entry level craftsman box. Ive never understood why people get super expensive tool boxes though.
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Jan 21, 2010 15:27
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Kynetx posted:gently caress, you guys are awesome. Good stuff. I'm with you there. I just have to do mine manually because I don't have a press. 
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Jan 21, 2010 20:57
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Kynetx posted:Vermont American any good? I use their taps a fair amount. I've literally melted Vermont American masonry bits. And I mean the first 1/8" of the bit turned into a ball. I've gotta find a picture of that... Edit: Found it. The carbide tip would snap off while drilling, and the soft steel bit would just slag itself. And no, I didn't take them up on their lifetime replacement policy.  grover fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Jan 22, 2010 |
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Jan 22, 2010 16:14
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You should have. Were you using the hammer setting on your drill? I drill concrete all the time with the big Hilti roto-hammers and the trick with a hammer setting is to NOT apply a lot of force. You let the inertia of the tool do the work. All you have to do is control it. Whenever I train a newbie, I really hammer that point home (hah) because leaning into a masonry bit absorbs the hammering force and keeps the tip of the bit against the work where it overheats and loses its temper. Combine the increased friction with the extra time it takes because you're fighting the tool and it's easy to wreck the bit. If we're careful, a good Hilti or Hitachi bit will last years. The tip of the bit you pictured looks pretty much identical in shape to the big SDS bits we use, so if you're leaning into it and not using the hammer setting you need to change your technique.
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Jan 22, 2010 17:01
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Yeah, I melted a few Vermont American carbide drills trying to make holes in tile. Those things suck. My experience with a drill doctor was it worked amazing until about the 12th try and something hosed up and it ruins drills now instead of sharpening them. You can hand grind most drills with a little practice. The movement is key and is almost intuitive. You also need a perfectly flat grinding wheel surface which can be achieved with a dressing tool. The problem most people have is they take too much off one side and the drill only cuts on that side. If you see 2 nice stringers coming up the flutes of the drill while cutting you got them right. They make solid carbide drills but you need an extremely rigid setup or they will snap into bits. They won't tolerate bending stresses.
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Jan 22, 2010 18:53
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I need a torque wrench, what kind/type should I get?
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Jan 22, 2010 21:11
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Chauncey posted:My experience with a drill doctor was it worked amazing until about the 12th try and something hosed up and it ruins drills now instead of sharpening them. We've got one of those and I adore it. It takes a bit of practice to get it right but it does a really really good job. e: VVV On a related note to this, if you do want or need more accuracy, Proto click-style torque wrenches are excellent for the price. Expect to pay over $100, and don't for the love of god buy the craftsman click style ones. They break nearly immediately. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Jan 22, 2010 |
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Jan 22, 2010 21:22
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unknown poster posted:I need a torque wrench, what kind/type should I get? Opinions are like assholes on this subject... But here's mine! (the opinion that is) I learned all I know about torque wrenches from a guy who's used one every day for about the past 20 years. He's been responsible for everything from (possibly) record breaking ACVW engines to misc. cars at a local tuner to large machines in a shop. I don't know of anyone I've met with a more legitimate resume of practical experience on mechanical stuff. His first piece of advice to me was that clicker torque wrenches are essentially pointless if you 1. care about accuracy and 2. are spending less than several hundred dollars. his second piece of advice is that at any price point clicker torque wrenches are useless unless they've been calibrated properly. His third piece of advice was that at my level of work (maintaining personal vehicles, general use for fasteners that give you an acceptable range, etc) that my best value would be to get an inexpensive beam-style unit. It won't be knocked out of calibration if I drop it once, and it's accurate enough for axle nuts, lug nuts, etc that I'll have to regularly work with. I've been using a $30 craftsman beam-style torque wrench for 5 or so years, on pretty much everything on a car except engine internals, and I've never experienced any problems caused by improperly torqued fasteners.
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Jan 22, 2010 21:30
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Beam-deflection torque wrenches are great, but they are a pain in the rear end to use in a lot of places. I use on one lug nuts and axle nuts, but aside from that, its clickers all the way. I'd spend the $$ on an SK Torque wrench. Unless they've changed policies, they'll re-cal it for free if you send it to them. You might have to pay return shipping, but thats a darn good deal. You can also check the calibration by using a deflection wrench and a clicker on 2 nuts welded together. Set the clicker for 30, and watch the beam. When it clicks, you'll get an idea of how accurate it is.
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Jan 22, 2010 22:13
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sharkytm posted:Beam-deflection torque wrenches are great, but they are a pain in the rear end to use in a lot of places. I use on one lug nuts and axle nuts, but aside from that, its clickers all the way. However in that case: quote:I'd spend the $$ on an SK Torque wrench. quote:Unless they've changed policies, they'll re-cal it for free if you send it to them. You might have to pay return shipping, but thats a darn good deal. quote:You can also check the calibration by using a deflection wrench and a clicker on 2 nuts welded together. Set the clicker for 30, and watch the beam. When it clicks, you'll get an idea of how accurate it is. Thanks for the input!
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Jan 22, 2010 22:39
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Any recommendations for Tap and Die kits, and bolt extractor kits? I made the mistake of buying some cheap bolts for my motorcycles and now I have 2 lovely broken bolts. Ideally, cheaper is better, but if I have to spend more I have to spend more.
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Jan 31, 2010 02:55
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For chasing threads, lovely taps are fine. For cutting nice new threads you probably want a nice set. Not sure on the bolt extractors, I've only used them a few times. (Thankfully)
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Jan 31, 2010 19:45
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I've got something like this cheapy and it's fine for chasing threads: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45766 I'd get one of the titanium nitride kits if I was making new threads.
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Feb 1, 2010 19:54
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Jared592 posted:I've got something like this cheapy and it's fine for chasing threads: DO NOT BUY HF TAPS OR DIES. Dear god, they suck worse than anything I've ever used for tapping. Spend the cash, and get some decent taps. The correct drill bit, good cutting fluid, and a good tap will make you wonder why you ever tried with anything else. Heck, even Vermont American taps from the hardware store are acceptable, but NOT the HF stuff. Their old tap sets used to even say "Not for use in metal, use in plastic only."
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Feb 1, 2010 20:09
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sharkytm posted:DO NOT BUY HF TAPS OR DIES. Dear god, they suck worse than anything I've ever used for tapping. Spend the cash, and get some decent taps. The correct drill bit, good cutting fluid, and a good tap will make you wonder why you ever tried with anything else. Heck, even Vermont American taps from the hardware store are acceptable, but NOT the HF stuff. Their old tap sets used to even say "Not for use in metal, use in plastic only." THEY WORK PERFECTLY FINE FOR CHASING THREADS THAT ALREADY EXIST. See, I can type in caps too. They are threaded and spaced correctly and are cheaper than anything else on the market. I can't comment on their more expensive tap and die sets, but I have had absolutely no trouble with the cheapo 60 piece set.
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Feb 1, 2010 20:44
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Agreed I'd only use cheapie taps for tapping plastic or chasing/cleaning threads. You can get quality taps on ebay for cheap. Nothing sucks worse than a broken tap because if none of the tricks work to get it out thats it, youre hosed and your part is ruined. Even if you can get it out what a waste of time.
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Feb 1, 2010 21:50
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laymil posted:THEY WORK PERFECTLY FINE FOR CHASING THREADS THAT ALREADY EXIST. See, I can type in caps too. They are threaded and spaced correctly and are cheaper than anything else on the market. I can't comment on their more expensive tap and die sets, but I have had absolutely no trouble with the cheapo 60 piece set. I've had cheap taps snap off when trying to chase rusty threads. G'head, use them, I was just trying to warn the unwary away from them. They aren't spaced particularly well, and the metal they use tends to seize in stainless and in steel. For aluminum or plastic, they'll do. Then come in here and bitch that you have a broken tap stuck in something, how to you go about removing that...
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Feb 1, 2010 22:39
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sharkytm posted:bitch that you have a broken tap stuck in something, how to you go about removing that... Needle-nose pliers.
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Feb 3, 2010 06:52
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Kynetx posted:Needle-nose pliers. HURRRR.... if the tap is sticking out, fine. They usually break down in the hole, since you have cleared the threads in the beginning, then they bind and snap off either flush or down in the hole a bit.
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Feb 3, 2010 16:55
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sharkytm posted:you have a broken tap stuck in something, how to you go about removing that... The best/only way I have found to remove a broken tap/EZ-out is with the round diamond-tipped Dremel bits or the eraser-shaped griding bits.
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Feb 3, 2010 17:31
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So does anyone have any recommendations besides "Not HF" and "Hardware store"? I was hoping that I could go and look for a fairly decent, cheap brand, or better yet, order it online. Speaking of which...is there a place to order helicoils as well?
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Feb 3, 2010 18:33
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Look in the Yellow Pages and see if there are industrial tool suppliers in your area. Failing that, there may be a Grainger near you. I've used the Craftsman bolt extractors and taps so far. They have both received light use, but I have cut new threads in steel without a problem. I'll be starting to tap alot more threads shortly here, so I'm interested in some good brands to look for, myself. Whatever you do, get yourself some good cutting oil! Edit: another thread cutting tip, back the tap/die a 1/4 turn every so often to break those chips loose. That will help keep it from getting stuck, breaking, and ruining your day. Also, never force a tap or die. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Feb 3, 2010 |
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Feb 3, 2010 18:39
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Z3n posted:So does anyone have any recommendations besides "Not HF" and "Hardware store"? I was hoping that I could go and look for a fairly decent, cheap brand, or better yet, order it online. Speaking of which...is there a place to order helicoils as well?
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Feb 3, 2010 18:44
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Z3n posted:So does anyone have any recommendations besides "Not HF" and "Hardware store"? I was hoping that I could go and look for a fairly decent, cheap brand, or better yet, order it online. Speaking of which...is there a place to order helicoils as well? By hardware store, I meant "Vermont American" because most hardware stores carry their tap/dies. If you are ordering online, SJ Discount tools has good prices on the kits (tap, install tools, and helicoils) and on helicoils alone: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/manufacturers-helicoil.html ^^^ McMaster's prices leave a lot to be desired, but their shipping is dirt cheap, fast, and they have EVERYTHING on earth (usually in stock too). This is the kit I have. Its OK. Not great, not bad, just OK. http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ver21729.html I didn't pay that, but I got it at a garage sale. It was missing a few taps, so I replaced them from other places. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Feb 3, 2010 |
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Feb 3, 2010 18:44
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Speaking of heli-coils... I started buying the "perma-coil" kits. I think the taps and tools in the kits are better, however they are more expensive too. The coils themselves are the same as far as I can tell, both basically stainless steel wire, with the same shape tang.
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Feb 3, 2010 18:52
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Timeserts are another way to go if you don't want to ever do the job again. Those bastards are never letting go.
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Feb 3, 2010 18:56
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We just unwrapped a brand new 1/2" craftsman ratchet last week, and the loving thing was broken out of the box. I've seen them break before, but never broken out of the box. Their quality control has absolutely gone to poo poo, but they're still priced like it's a premium brand. At least the generics are priced like generics.
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Feb 3, 2010 19:24
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sharkytm posted:HURRRR.... if the tap is sticking out, fine. Hey mister crabby-pants... Needle-nose pliers work for retrieving taps that are flush or below the surface just fine. The reason I said "needle-nose" is because you can jam the tips of the jaws into the channels of the tap and use them as an ad-hoc spanner. I've rescued a couple this way quite a few times.
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Feb 3, 2010 19:50
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sharkytm posted:McMaster's prices leave a lot to be desired, but their shipping is dirt cheap, fast, and they have EVERYTHING on earth (usually in stock too). They won't sell you a crap brand, their customer service is amazing, and they have an unbelievable return policy too. Buy quality or buy twice. McMaster Carr is the quality where HF is the twice. edit: Open an account with grainger and get a loving phone book size catalog every couple months. Good for use as a door stop, or to bludgeon any employee who doesn't know how to use the internet. oxbrain fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Feb 3, 2010 |
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Feb 3, 2010 19:51
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sharkytm posted:McMaster's prices leave a lot to be desired, but their shipping is dirt cheap, fast, and they have EVERYTHING on earth (usually in stock too). Their prices are great when your mom works there and gets everything at cost! I should really utilize them for tools in addition to random nuts and bolts and parts. grover posted:We just unwrapped a brand new 1/2" craftsman ratchet last week, and the loving thing was broken out of the box. I've seen them break before, but never broken out of the box. Their quality control has absolutely gone to poo poo, but they're still priced like it's a premium brand. At least the generics are priced like generics. That happened with the socket set my dad bought years and years ago. They replaced it right away and haven't had a problem with it since.
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Feb 3, 2010 20:14
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