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I can't think of one metal multi-part model I've had a bad time assembling v vI must be a modelling genius  (or extremely lucky)
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Jan 21, 2010 18:26
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I dont usually have too much hate for metal models, except the newish GW casts, which take longer to loving clean than assemble  Oh, the keeper of secrets. That thing was a bitch motherfucker. And the dark elf hydra...
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Jan 21, 2010 18:31
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Old metal bolter sponsons on the LR Crusader. And the pintle multi-melta too, come to think.
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Jan 21, 2010 18:35
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PaintVagrant posted:I dont usually have too much hate for metal models, except the newish GW casts, which take longer to loving clean than assemble This is starting to drive me absolutely crazy. I sit there for ages analysing a piece after spending the past half an hour shaving all the little pieces of crap off, thinking everything is okay. Then I go to glue them and at the last minute I see a bunch more bits to clean off. Never has one of those stupid 4chan FUUUUUUU comics been more apt to apply to than this bullshit. I inevitably find some just after basecoating as well. What the hell is going on with them?
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Jan 21, 2010 19:10
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I explained that before in here I think. It's to prevent air bubbles catching in the raised areas of the mould. I make them myself on stuff I've moulded over the years with a pin so I can be sure of getting the mould filled.
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Jan 21, 2010 19:19
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Except that they used to produce product of the same quality without giant loving piles of spare metal hanging off of it, and PP etc. manage to match or exceed their quality without having that issue to the extent that GW has lately. Something is up with their molds or their casting process.
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Jan 21, 2010 19:22
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If it's not something to do with air leaks, it has to be something with the metal somehow. They're probably churning that poo poo out so fast for stuff like the Skaven special characters that they probably are like "alright take'em out five minutes earlier than usual from now on" so they can make more(money).
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Jan 21, 2010 19:59
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I dunno, I have a lot of old metal blisters and they either have -the same amount of flash to remove -fewer details that could cause flash older models have just as much little dangly poo poo you gotta clip, you just bein nostalgic homes
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Jan 21, 2010 20:06
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They are mold markers. They occur along mold lines (generally) and are an indicator of where the original mold needed to be cut to make it 2 parts.
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Jan 21, 2010 20:10
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I genuinely think they're just using an old technique with a modern moulding process. I make my rubber moulds in two halves and this is a trick that I was taught to prevent pointy detail getting full of air as the metal goes in. It's still not a bad idea to tap the mould a lot before letting it sit for a few seconds, but the metal cools pretty drat fast really. If they were taking the models out five minutes early then they'd be taking them out three minutes before they poured the metal.
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Jan 21, 2010 20:18
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There is definitely more of those stringy tabs, thats not nostalgia, thats just the truth. I worked for GW about 10 years ago, and got to go into the area that they kept metal parts, and trust me...this is a relatively new thing. When I say new...maybe over the past 5 years?
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Jan 21, 2010 20:20
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Yeah, I have noticed that as well. I was surprised and disappointed at the amount of excess flash and spiky bits on the Hive Guard I bought. The model was even slightly misaligned and took a LOT of work to clean up. I've bought a bunch of pewter models from other companies and none of them were even close in terms of flash.
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Jan 21, 2010 20:29
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That sounds pretty sucky. I have a bunch of older stuff I got from a going-out-of-business sale and a store that hasn't restocked GW products in a long time, and they were about equal to some direct order stuff I got. (noise weapons, skull bits pack, and meltaguns bits pack to be precise). The old character models that were very detailed always had bad flash, at least the ones I got. Maybe it's just pointless anecdotes 
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Jan 21, 2010 20:35
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The Saddest Robot posted:I've bought a bunch of pewter models from other companies and none of them were even close in terms of flash. Were they as detailed as GW stuff? The pewter stuff I've bought in 28mm is generally less detailed than GW's figures, but the very detailed 6mm stuff I've bought has had a lot of flash and the thin strands of excess metal trailing off spiky bits? I've not really seen much Warmachine type stuff though so dunno if that has the same problem or if they're awesome compared to GW.
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Jan 21, 2010 21:27
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privateer press, corvus belli, rackham, a bunch of other companies: dont have those stringy loving things
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Jan 21, 2010 21:30
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Yea, Rackham didn't have the issue with their metal casts, which were just as high quality (and frankly, often better) than GW stuff. It might be something to do with the casting method, as I imagine that GW runs a much higher volume than Rackham did, but there are clearly ways to avoid it.
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Jan 21, 2010 21:33
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PaintVagrant posted:privateer press, corvus belli, rackham, a bunch of other companies: dont have those stringy loving things Weird. GHQ certainly do have the stringy bits, though their metal is much softer than GW's. Someone should drop an email to GW and ask.
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Jan 21, 2010 21:34
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And dont get me wrong, the occasional stringy thing happens, but the newer GW stuff literally has them at every sharp point of the model
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Jan 21, 2010 21:35
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I hate it when they're lying flat across the model and you kind of have to pry them off/unwind them. It sorts of creeps me out somehow. Somewhat randomly, I just found some patents for GW's moulding process.
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Jan 21, 2010 21:41
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PaintVagrant posted:There is definitely more of those stringy tabs, thats not nostalgia, thats just the truth. [EDIT]Examining them a bit closer there's a HUGE one on the right shoulder pad (which was smooth in those days....) and a load of them on the ammo pouches as well as one on the beaky helmet. This is one crazy single-part model....
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Jan 21, 2010 21:56
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If anyone in this thread isn't following the Warhammer thread, and you're interested in oathing again, go check it out.
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Jan 21, 2010 23:21
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Trygon Prime, day 2: I'm almost halfway done! 
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Jan 22, 2010 01:34
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How big is the base on this friggin' thing?
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Jan 22, 2010 02:49
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120x80mm oval iirc
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Jan 22, 2010 03:00
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Broken Loose posted:Trygon Prime, day 2: Why are you doing the head separate? Is there some kind of deep, nigh-unpaintable niche behind where the head goes?
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Jan 22, 2010 06:29
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Warhammer Oath thread is up... check it out! http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3257636&pagenumber=1#lastpost
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Jan 22, 2010 08:31
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Sole.Sushi posted:Why are you doing the head separate? Is there some kind of deep, nigh-unpaintable niche behind where the head goes? Kinda. It's also easier to turn the head around to get at the mouth and mandible areas than trying to turn the whole drat thing.
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Jan 22, 2010 10:15
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This might've come up earlier in the thread, but does anyone have any experience with Army Painter sprays? I was thinking of using the bleached bone one + the light or strong dip to paint my lion marines, but wanted a second opinion first.
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Jan 22, 2010 19:19
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Sole.Sushi posted:Why are you doing the head separate? Is there some kind of deep, nigh-unpaintable niche behind where the head goes? Yeah, the entire recess where the head goes is unreachable (but slightly visible) with the head in, plus the back half of the head is nearly impossible to get at. I'm already kind of regretting attaching the top torso, but I've otherwise erred on the side of caution.
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Jan 22, 2010 19:29
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bhsman posted:This might've come up earlier in the thread, but does anyone have any experience with Army Painter sprays? I was thinking of using the bleached bone one + the light or strong dip to paint my lion marines, but wanted a second opinion first. A friend of mine used the bleached bone on his hundred some-odd marines. From what I could tell it doesn't go on too thickly and covers pretty well (about as well as krylon white primer).
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Jan 22, 2010 19:30
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bhsman posted:This might've come up earlier in the thread, but does anyone have any experience with Army Painter sprays? I was thinking of using the bleached bone one + the light or strong dip to paint my lion marines, but wanted a second opinion first. Theyre pretty cool. They have less tooth than regular primers though, so using washes is a little dicey. The GKs and my cygnar are done with army painter sprays and they worked out nicely. In terms of washes, you have to use some medium or future floor wax to get the wash or ink to flow nicely.
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Jan 22, 2010 19:32
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Chenghiz posted:A friend of mine used the bleached bone on his hundred some-odd marines. From what I could tell it doesn't go on too thickly and covers pretty well (about as well as krylon white primer). PaintVagrant posted:Theyre pretty cool. They have less tooth than regular primers though, so using washes is a little dicey. Good to know I guess, but what about the dip? They advertise them like they go hand-in-hand. EDIT: This page has them painting a skeleton using the bone spray and then experimenting with the three dips. I'm thinking that the soft one would be the best. bhsman fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Jan 22, 2010 |
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Jan 22, 2010 20:54
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bhsman posted:Good to know I guess, but what about the dip? They advertise them like they go hand-in-hand. Ive never dipped anything, but it seems like it would work better on stuff with less surface area, like skeletons and whatnot, than marines. That being said, try it. The spray is definitely worth using, the real issue is weather washing them or hand shading is the way to go.
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Jan 22, 2010 21:39
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I'm actually currently looking for some reviews and comparisons of the AP dip. The sellers say it's supposed to be more optimal for miniatures somehow but I haven't yet found much that confirms this. I want to get something of the same shade as their dark tone, anyway, it looks pretty useful for me. From the pictures I've seen dipping works about as well for most kinds of figures.
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Jan 22, 2010 21:49
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So I removed my top lamp bulb (which was a 100watt pure daylight halogen) and replaced it with a "daylight" non-halogen bulb, which is a good deal warmer. I have to say, the colors look so much better...Ive realized recently that my rig was really knocking the color out of my minis. So, that being said, I re-shot my re-worked skaven characters (minor adjustments)   
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Jan 22, 2010 22:36
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Also reshot my defender, the old shots were really awful: 
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Jan 22, 2010 23:06
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PV, is your lightbox all-white with a grey backdrop? What are you using for the grey, just fancy art-paper?
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Jan 23, 2010 02:07
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So I recently bought a can of Armory grey primer for painting a resin figure. I know the brand has probably been brought up a million times in this thread alone, but is this a good product to use on a resin figure so I can paint it later? edit:VVVV Wow armory primer multi-post. Otterspace fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Jan 23, 2010 |
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Jan 23, 2010 04:57
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I'm getting ready to do the oath contest and I need some help. Basically, my primer is too grainy and it shows on the model. Don't laugh at me, but I even specifically got a can of freaking Armory white primer because I wanted to see if it would go on smoother than a 99 cent of Krylon. What am I doing wrong and how can I fix it? Here is an example of this grainy poo poo, it's a Shoota Ork (I'm not going to cheat and use him for my Feb oath, the drat shirt is purple anyway) that I was testing colors on. It's not done so you don't have to tell me about all the painting fuckups on it.
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Jan 23, 2010 05:02
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Phyresis posted:I'm getting ready to do the oath contest and I need some help. Basically, my primer is too grainy and it shows on the model. Don't laugh at me, but I even specifically got a can of freaking Armory white primer because I wanted to see if it would go on smoother than a 99 cent of Krylon. What am I doing wrong and how can I fix it? Here is an example of this grainy poo poo, it's a Shoota Ork (I'm not going to cheat and use him for my Feb oath, the drat shirt is purple anyway) that I was testing colors on. It's not done so you don't have to tell me about all the painting fuckups on it. I'm not really seeing what you are trying to point out with the picture. I assume you're talking about a rough surface texture? In my experience that's what you get when you prime when it's really humid outside. Happens a lot to me in the summer (thanks Indiana) but not in other times.
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Jan 23, 2010 05:33
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