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I've had both my primer and my minis sitting in my cold rear end kitchen all day. It's barely below freezing outside. Is it still possible to get my priming done since the spray, plastics, and weather are all about the same temperature? EDIT:    
Mondays fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Jan 26, 2010 |
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Jan 26, 2010 20:36
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 21:47 |
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It's not about everything around you needing to be at the same temperature in order for the stuff to work right. Your surroundings need to be at a CERTAIN temperature in order to get a good even coat. Generally, way warmer than freezing. 
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Jan 26, 2010 22:36
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I don't think it has anything to do with everything being the same temperature? At least I have never heard that. I think the issue is that below a certain temperature the cold messes with the way the propellant works, and your spray isn't going to deliver a proper mist. Read the instructions, I would almost gaurantee that it says you need to use it between 50-85 degrees or something like that.
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Jan 26, 2010 22:36
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I'd just had some guy tell me that the temperature difference may cause condensation between the model and the primer. I certainly sprayed a lot of fuzzy looking models back when I lived on a tropical island... But then maybe it was just the humidity?
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Jan 26, 2010 22:42
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The Saddest Robot posted:Varnish Question. If I hit the model with a layer of dullcoat and then touch up some parts of it with a brush on gloss varnish will the glossy portion look any different than if I just put the gloss varnish on with no dullcoat? Is there any interaction with how the light reacts with the layers beneath it? Dullcoted first, then glossied (carapaces, blades, and the little injector tongue dealies):  
theironjef fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Jan 26, 2010 |
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Jan 26, 2010 22:52
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theironjef posted:Dullcoted first, then glossied (carapaces, blades, and the little injector tongue dealies): Dude that looks really good. I'm gonna do that to my nids when I finally get around to paint them.
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Jan 26, 2010 23:21
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Nids are the only army that gloss coat is appropriate on.
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Jan 27, 2010 00:04
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Bobx66 posted:Nids are the only army that gloss coat is appropriate on. Looks good on 'Crons, too.
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Jan 27, 2010 00:35
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A Powerful Cream posted:For making your own wash, what's the paint to water ratio?
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Jan 27, 2010 01:16
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theironjef posted:Looks good on 'Crons, too. I hadn't considered that but I bet on the right paint job it would look good.
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Jan 27, 2010 01:45
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A Powerful Cream posted:.  )
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Jan 27, 2010 01:55
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Bobx66 posted:I hadn't considered that but I bet on the right paint job it would look good. My old Necrons have gloss on the ceramic bits. A little bit goes a long way.
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Jan 27, 2010 05:44
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Here's my block of 16 High Elf Archers including full command for my Feburary Oath. Just a dusting of prime so i didn't get my oily mitts all over the bare plastic. Will give it a proper coat and cover up the bare conversion pieces tomorrow.   The sword they give you for the Hawkeye (only left handed sword on the sprue) is plain boring when compared to the rune blade the musician can carry. For that reason i decided to chop the blade off and plastic weld on a blade out of a dragon kit (or possibly a prince kit, i dont remember now) Also gave him one of the heads out of the other kit to make him stand out that little bit more.
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Jan 27, 2010 22:39
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Combaticus posted:Nope, don't really have any plans for it at the moment, I could try and sketch up some guides to how I did the different parts if you want though. Yus please. Sole.Sushi posted:The first thing you want to do is rough up your surface with some sand paper--the finer the grit, the better. In this way, your epoxy will stick to the cloak while you go to town adding detail. I've been having a bitch of a time working with larger amounts of epoxy, now I know why. Great ideas. Put some detail in the hat and gave him a stole.  Probably gonna redo it all now that I see its uneven. Hat needs better, uniform detail. Like this guy: Zarkov Cortez posted: Lastly; loving around with scrap models.  Click here for the full 1000x502 image.
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Jan 28, 2010 03:27
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LewdMonocle posted:I've been having a bitch of a time working with larger amounts of epoxy, now I know why. It took me a while to figure this one out. Glad it helped.
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Jan 28, 2010 06:50
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LewdMonocle posted:Lastly; loving around with scrap models. That centre model is loving wierd. What are those models, and why do you have so many of them?
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Jan 28, 2010 07:26
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LewdMonocle posted:Lastly; loving around with scrap models. ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HxlrXPSnjA
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Jan 28, 2010 11:49
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I sat down to clean some mold lines off some ork troopers. I got an arm with a pistol done and already wanted to murder people. Is there no way to make this bearable?!  Maybe I shouldn't bother with models that have cloths and leather and creases on them. Maybe I should get some fine sandpaper instead of using a knife.
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Jan 28, 2010 13:49
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Drag the knife along the mold line. Except for stuff like rope or hair, it should easily, quickly shave it off. If it's on hair, you're hosed.
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Jan 28, 2010 14:04
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I use the back of a knife, it's easier to keep from taking an accidental chunk out.
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Jan 28, 2010 14:11
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Captain Invictus posted:Drag the knife along the mold line. Except for stuff like rope or hair, it should easily, quickly shave it off. If it's on hair, you're hosed. That's what I do. It's easy enough on smoother, longer surfaces but when it gets to lots of texture and fiddly bits I just start hatin'. I guess I'll have to suck it up and not play orks a lot, heh.
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Jan 28, 2010 14:55
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chelsea clinton posted:That's what I do. It's easy enough on smoother, longer surfaces but when it gets to lots of texture and fiddly bits I just start hatin'. I guess I'll have to suck it up and not play orks a lot, heh. or just lay your paint on real thick I tend to just give core / troops a once over and only clean up more unique units. nobody really pays that much close attention to a horde of plastic mens to go all sperging about moooooolllllddddd llliiiinnnness!!
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Jan 28, 2010 15:02
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I immediately notice mold lines and un-drilled barrels all the time in real life I don't say poo poo about it though because painted armies with mold lines and un-drilled barrels are way better than my painstaking no mold lines, drilled barrels, and primer black minis. (orks really benefit from drilling the barrels tho because shootahs are so drat big)
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Jan 28, 2010 15:11
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MaliciousOnion posted:That centre model is loving wierd. What are those models, and why do you have so many of them? From the starwars collectiable minis. miniaturemarket usually sells trash singles DIRT cheap. Picked him up two years ago for five cents a pop. Like this guy: http://www.miniaturemarket.com/inc/sdetail/399459 Never played horrorclix or will, but for $.12 I'm sure I could use that snake head for something. Captain Invictus posted:? 
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Jan 28, 2010 15:25
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MasterSlowPoke posted:I use the back of a knife, it's easier to keep from taking an accidental chunk out. Er, that's what I meant by dragging. Oops. LewdMonocle posted:middle dude looks like the Odd Scout. there are two more videos equally awesome/creepy by that guy
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Jan 28, 2010 16:15
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I just impulse bought a cheapo desk lamp, it only takes 60W bulbs. What's the best light bulb to get for painting and also for a light box? VVV Thanks for the advice, I will buy one today. Phyresis fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Jan 28, 2010 |
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Jan 28, 2010 17:01
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Phyresis posted:I just impulse bought a cheapo desk lamp, it only takes 60W bulbs. What's the best light bulb to get for painting and also for a light box? I just bought something that said "Daylight bulb" on it. It's more of a white, sunshine light instead of a yellow light like most bulbs. It looks something like this: 
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Jan 28, 2010 17:39
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yea, daylight bulb is what you want.. as Aranan says, the light is much whiter than a standard bulb.
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Jan 28, 2010 17:41
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Aranan posted:I just bought something that said "Daylight bulb" on it. It's more of a white, sunshine light instead of a yellow light like most bulbs. It looks something like this: My girlfriend is an aspiring photographer, we just got some studio lighting, 1200watts over 10 day light bulbs gently diffused... its like i'm painting little plastic mens on the surface of the sun! Needless to say when you've been painting under them for 5 hours and turn them off you cant see poo poo for 30 mins.
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Jan 28, 2010 17:52
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Cross posting my work from the miniwargaming forum: This months project was to make a piece of terrain with a "chip tube". http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DSeJDsjNzRw This structure came to me while eating chips and watching TV, guess which show it was. (It didn't really, but its a good story.) Supplies: The chip tube, 2 hose washers, plastic rod, foamcore and an old Dungeon Bowl door.  Step1: Cut the tube to length. Cut a seam up the back and roll the tube into a cone. Glue it and clamp it.  Step2: Cut out the windows and door. Cut out the foamcore bits, glue them and the washers in place.  Step3: Cover the model in spackle for that authentic stone look.  Step4&5: Attach the rivets (made from the plastic rod). Prime and paint it.  Step6: Set it up on a grassy hill and start playing.  Just beware of the crazy Cthulhu Cultist, Squidwardson who lives there...uh-oh, RUN!  For added fun use a battery powered tealight to jazz up the place. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fd52LPnpNWQ So, what do you think?
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Jan 28, 2010 19:28
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Indolent Bastard posted:So, what do you think?
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Jan 28, 2010 20:19
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Ignoring the lol-gogglies here's my first Tyranid. Although I like how the carapice and the scythes came out I'm really not happy with the flesh at all. It ends up looking a little blotchy and washed out. I'm thinning my paints into a little pallete thing, getting a bit on my brush and just building up layers of colour until I go "gently caress it." For this one I washed the edges of the joints in really watered down white - I quite like the effect that ended up with, but it doesn't stop the bulk of it looking turd. Is there anything specific I'm doing wrong or rather, something I should be doing?
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Jan 28, 2010 20:21
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Furret Basket posted:Is there anything specific I'm doing wrong or rather, something I should be doing? Are you mixing white into the purple as your highlight color? Try using Ice Blue instead, it'll be less chalky. Maybe hit what you have there with a purple wash, it'll even things out a bit.
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Jan 28, 2010 20:33
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Furret Basket posted:Is there anything specific I'm doing wrong or rather, something I should be doing? Are you using GW washes or making your own? Just mixing paint with water for a wash can result in a blotchy finish like that.
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Jan 28, 2010 20:34
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Chenghiz posted:Are you using GW washes or making your own? Just mixing paint with water for a wash can result in a blotchy finish like that. I am indeed just mixing paint and water. What should I be doing to make a decent, useful wash?
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Jan 28, 2010 20:40
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Are you mixing white into the purple as your highlight color? Try using Ice Blue instead, it'll be less chalky. Maybe hit what you have there with a purple wash, it'll even things out a bit. I'm actually highlighting in TENTACLE PINK. 
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Jan 28, 2010 20:40
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Furret Basket posted:I am indeed just mixing paint and water. What should I be doing to make a decent, useful wash? I've heard that putting a bit of hand soap into your solution will help prevent pooling and get the wash into the cracks, but I'd never tried it personally.
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Jan 28, 2010 20:43
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PaintVagrant posted:And dont get me wrong, the occasional stringy thing happens, but the newer GW stuff literally has them at every sharp point of the model Maybe GW changed their injection process in the last few years? Or maybe the sharp bits on the models are a finer detail than the older stuff, resulting in more bleed-out? And in my opinion, GW has always had flash on their models. It may have been smaller pieces or easier to take off due to the softness of the metal, but I always remember having to take the flash off of metal models.
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Jan 28, 2010 20:45
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berzerkmonkey posted:It is the injection process, most likely. I heard something the other day regarding it. The metal is forced into the mold under high pressure in an effort to get it into those pointy bits before the metal is able to cool. Some of the liquid metal is forced out beyond the cavity of the mold and results in the flash you're getting. It's more likely GW switched to a cheaper alloy that holds less detail or something, thus the need for more flash tabs.
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Jan 28, 2010 21:47
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You can make washes with future floor wax, matte medium, or rubbing alcohol. All of these things will make the paint's surface tension break a little easier.
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Jan 28, 2010 23:01
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