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So I'm putting this to a vote, I have some warmachine models. I can't decide whether to buy 2" foam, and stand them up; or buy 1 and 1/2" foam and lay them down. The latter saves space and fits more into a case, but the former causes less rubbing and thus I believe less paint loss over time.
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Feb 3, 2010 17:07
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| # ? Apr 16, 2024 14:37 |
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I R SMART LIKE ROCK posted:So I'm putting this to a vote, I have some warmachine models. I can't decide whether to buy 2" foam, and stand them up; or buy 1 and 1/2" foam and lay them down. The latter saves space and fits more into a case, but the former causes less rubbing and thus I believe less paint loss over time. If you gloss and dullcote everything you won't have to worry about paint coming off unless you store your models in steel wool
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Feb 3, 2010 17:11
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crime fighting hog posted:If you gloss and dullcote everything you won't have to worry about paint coming off unless you store your models in steel wool Was going to post this. Hell all my orks are just thrown in an empty battleforce box and they don't have a nick on them.
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Feb 3, 2010 17:12
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unfortunately, warmachine models arent the same as plastic orks...they are giant chunks of metal that will scratch the gently caress out of each other if they make contact
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Feb 3, 2010 17:14
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Point, but if he's putting them in foam they shouldn't be rubbing each other.
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Feb 3, 2010 17:16
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Yeah, I think when it comes to metal models there are really 2 options, full foam that they stand/lay in without touching, or magnetize them and then pad between them. I was just taking my WM models to gaming nights in a toolbox, magnetized to the bottom, no foam...the problem was if a model popped loose, it caused havoc with the rest of my poo poo
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Feb 3, 2010 17:23
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I carry my Warmachine stuff in a small Army Transport bag, with 2" foam and the jacks standing up. I have 1.5" foam trays for the troops. It works out alright.
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Feb 3, 2010 17:50
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Bistromatic posted:I made a barrel today seconding the request for a tutorial of these. Also Airbrush Goons. Do you have any fancy airbrush gubbins as part of your set up? Specifically a filter or dryer that is fitted in the line between your compressor and your airbrush? I have seen both of these at my local hardware store but as they are mostly geared for 'industrial' use I don't know if any of their stuff is needed or wanted for airbrushing. I've got the compressor and an airbrush, now I just need the time and nerve to get on with using it.
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Feb 3, 2010 18:07
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Is this just eye shadow??? I like the "special applicator tool" ha ha I've got tons of them.
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Feb 3, 2010 18:12
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Indolent Bastard posted:seconding the request for a tutorial of these. I'll probably do a few more barrels tomorrow, i'll try to take some pics then. The fanciest part of my setup is probably the bigass industrial compressor i got from my father, for all i know it's about 50 years old now and it still runs without a hitch, don't know if it has any filters or driers but i wouldn't rule it out v  v. Also i can see using some moisture reducing gimmick when you're using laquer paints but with acrylics what's the point? They're full of water anyway.
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Feb 3, 2010 18:35
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Indolent Bastard posted:seconding the request for a tutorial of these. Lack of a moisture filter is the one thing that's stopped me from starting up my airbrushing. Once a bit of condensation builds up in the tank, the extra water can start to throw a wrench in your quality.
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Feb 3, 2010 18:39
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So, I should go with the 1.5" foam?
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Feb 3, 2010 18:58
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PV, what's a good mix/colour for highlighting Sick Blue (Vallejo's answer to the old Hideous Blue)? I've been mixing with Bleached Bone which is giving nice, subdued progression, but it doesn't pop and I can already tell it won't photograph well. Edit: This is for genestealer carapace.
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Feb 3, 2010 20:53
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As you get closer to the final highlight, get a cooler color into the mix, like skull white or astro/ghostly grey Bleached bone works awesome as a transition/blend color, but its not quite sharp/light enough to work as the final highligh without some white being mixed in...at least in my experience. Keep the edge highlight really small and make sure its a fairly big jump in value from the last one
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Feb 3, 2010 20:56
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Furret Basket posted:Is this just eye shadow??? It's a slightly different consistency to eyeshadow, but yeah. My girlfriend suggested it was like makeup, but for tanks. On the packaging, it actually says that it's not a cosmetic product 
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Feb 3, 2010 21:12
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Thanks for the tips, guys. I suppose I'll be checking out my local hobbystore very shortly - I needed to go down there for trees anyway.  Edit: Pants. This is what I get for sharing a computer with my roommate.
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Feb 3, 2010 21:28
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PierreTheMime posted:It did come out nicely. If you have one, put a wash over the cherub wings. If you don't have a wash, make a 90/10 mix of water and Chaos Black and wash over the wings to get darkened recesses on them. Use a watered-down light blue actually, since the wings aren't comprised of hard plates like stormtrooper armor, there comprised of feathered wings which are cute and fuzzy and cherubic. 
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Feb 4, 2010 01:10
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Alright guys, after an expensive (somewhat) trip to my hobby supply shop, I got both the pictured Tamiya Kit and another kit called Jerry Cans. Two dented up oil drums from the latter kit are now pinned to the back of my daemon prince, and when I find my camera cord I'll post some WiP pics. Nice little kits, very good prices! Also, I may or may not have picked up the woodland scenics big rear end box o' forest, because it was only 20 bucks for more forest trees that I will ever need. Now just have to make some hills for them to get planted in.
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Feb 4, 2010 03:57
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Ok if you guys aren't reading GW's daily blog thing, you should because they post some pretty ownage stuff every day. Case in point:  There's more close ups of stuff in the blog, located here. Now I've got the urge again to do tactical arrows on my Rhinos. I need to just buckle down and do it, should be pretty easy if I mask them off and use the airbrush.
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Feb 4, 2010 06:33
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Fyrbrand posted:Ok if you guys aren't reading GW's daily blog thing, you should because they post some pretty ownage stuff every day. I can agree with that, but look at how stupid this looks:  Oh wow, that's cool man! Check out that sweet rear end wear and tear! Oh man that's... wtf? Why is the fist PERFECT?
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Feb 4, 2010 08:21
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Not to mention a very noticeable moldline on one of the metal sternguard 
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Feb 4, 2010 08:27
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Anphrax posted:I can agree with that, but look at how stupid this looks: I like the weathering on the corners, but the mud just looks like brushstrokes. He would have been better to sponge it on.
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Feb 4, 2010 10:20
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:I like the weathering on the corners, but the mud just looks like brushstrokes. He would have been better to sponge it on. I was thinking the same. or just use horizontal strokes so at least it looks like the mud was wiped on by long grass / reeds etc. using vertical strokes looks like... well... looks like a model that's been painted.
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Feb 4, 2010 11:12
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I dunno, it just looks like it's been speed-painted to a standard that looks great on the tabletop but falters when you look at closeups. Works for me - I'm sure studio painters don't spend hours on every mini in their armies.
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Feb 4, 2010 12:53
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Chenghiz posted:I dunno, it just looks like it's been speed-painted to a standard that looks great on the tabletop but falters when you look at closeups. Works for me - I'm sure studio painters don't spend hours on every mini in their armies. Yeah that's what the dude seemed to be going for here. It looks fantastic from the tabletop, which is why I posted the full army pic. (Also I have a hardon for well-painted IF armies.) I think it's intended to be the guy's personal army rather than a studio army so he's maybe not as obsessive over it.
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Feb 4, 2010 15:43
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Oh my, i completely forgot that i was supposed to take pictures today. I enough stuff left so there'll be be chances to do that. In the meantime i'll refer you to these: http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/tag/tips-techniques/ http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31535 both contain info about salt masking,the latter starting at page three
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Feb 4, 2010 16:01
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Anphrax posted:Oh wow, that's cool man! Check out that sweet rear end wear and tear! Oh man that's... wtf? Why is the fist PERFECT? maybe Imperial Fists are really proud of their heraldry but don't have time to clean much else while on a campaign?
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Feb 4, 2010 16:11
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I finished some of my 15mm british soldiers, even went as far as to base them for once...they're based on 1p pieces and the sniper lying down is on a 2p. These were fun to paint and I have 11 more to do I'll post the full force in the historical thread once its done!  I don't have a fancy schmancy light box so a desk lamp is the best I could do, plus some photo shopping.
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Feb 4, 2010 16:28
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Anphrax posted:I can agree with that, but look at how stupid this looks: The yellow is sweet as hell but the weathering/transfer looks like rear end
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Feb 4, 2010 17:52
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Anphrax posted:Oh wow, that's cool man! Check out that sweet rear end wear and tear! Oh man that's... wtf? Why is the fist PERFECT? I'm  so hard over here about how off-centre the door transfer is.
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Feb 4, 2010 18:19
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Cakefool posted:I'm I don't disagree. Considering the amount of time and directed effort it takes to place a transfer without any bubbling or problems, it's as if the guy wanted it off-center. I have no idea why and I have decided to avoid thinking about it very much like trying to wrap my mind around the vastness of space or non-Euclidean geometry. PierreTheMime fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Feb 4, 2010 |
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Feb 4, 2010 18:42
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That imp fist army is a pretty nice TT standard, clean/misaligned decals dont really change that
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Feb 4, 2010 19:16
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Why does every Imperial Fists army seem like the guy ran out of Iyanden Darksun halfway through and started layering regular yellows I have a friend who airbrushed his entire space marine army with Iyanden so that he'd have a uniform yellow shade. Then the new codex came out, and he painted some sternguard and they look like they're from the banana world or something
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Feb 4, 2010 19:37
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frest posted:Why does every Imperial Fists army seem like the guy ran out of Iyanden Darksun halfway through and started layering regular yellows They hail from Villengard. Bananas are good.
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Feb 4, 2010 19:45
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The artist specifically chose to do slightly different shades of yellow to look more realistic. I guess that could make sense, if you figure weathered armor will slowly get lighter or whatever. Or he could be justifying his laziness, I dunno. Either way it's a pretty ownage TT level army.
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Feb 4, 2010 20:01
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PaintVagrant posted:That imp fist army is a pretty nice TT standard, clean/misaligned decals dont really change that I can point fingers & poke fun all I want, having 2 of the 9 3rds of my armies painted doesn't change that mister  Yeah, I'll be happy if I can make 1 army look that good.
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Feb 4, 2010 20:47
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Fyrbrand posted:The artist specifically chose to do slightly different shades of yellow to look more realistic. I guess that could make sense, if you figure weathered armor will slowly get lighter or whatever. Or he could be justifying his laziness, I dunno. Yeah, the only flaws are the mold lines and the decals need some dirtying up. Everything else is pretty boss and I would be proud if I had an army like that I could bust out in games.
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Feb 4, 2010 21:12
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Whelp, going over my first test mini for my February Oath, to see how I like Gnarls green as a basecoat under delicious plague marine-y drybrushing, and I'm finding myself thinking thoughts. Like how easy on the eyes boltgun metal + drybrush tin bitz + brown ink wash looks for corrosion, with maybe a dab or two of gold as a highlight. Like how awesome a set of corroded armor plague marines would look, especially with gnarls green shoulder pads ala rusted out pre-heresy Death Guard. Like how not-like every other green plague marine army it would be. Any thoughts? Rusted metal power armor armies, have you seen them? Do they look like pants?
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Feb 5, 2010 01:12
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crime fighting hog posted:The yellow is sweet as hell but the weathering/transfer looks like rear end I agree on the transfer, but the rough paint style reminds me of the sketchy Okami/Yoshi's Island aesthetic, and I can dig that.
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Feb 5, 2010 01:14
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Wrong thread, derp. Nuclear Pogostick fucked around with this message at 10:50 on Feb 5, 2010 |
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Feb 5, 2010 09:56
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