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Goob posted:You could always try McMaster Carr. I've used their taps before and they've been good, although it was a few years ago. Alright, I'm sort of partial to ordering good tools, so I'll suck it up and pay for the decent stuff. sharkytm posted:By hardware store, I meant "Vermont American" because most hardware stores carry their tap/dies. Thanks for the info. I need to go look at what sizes I need exactly, and then I'll order from them. I also need to pick up some well nuts. What's the best/easiest way to measure bolts? I've never really had to deal with this before, thanks to always using OEM stuff, but honestly, getting reamed for 10-20x the cost of a bolt because you're getting it from a motorcycle dealership gets really old. As a graduation gift, a bunch of my friends got together and bought me a big craftsman set. I've had no problems with it so far, and I've been supplementing it with other tools as I've needed them. Thankfully, there's not that many tools that you need to work on motorcycles. The biggest ratchet occasionally jumps out under load, but if it were a big deal I'd just go get a new one. I still lust after my friend's snap on stuff though. I hate working in most other people's garages though, as knowing where everything is and having the right tools is everything...
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# ? Feb 3, 2010 21:00 |
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# ? Mar 28, 2024 17:39 |
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grover posted:We just unwrapped a brand new 1/2" craftsman ratchet last week, and the loving thing was broken out of the box. I've seen them break before, but never broken out of the box. Their quality control has absolutely gone to poo poo, but they're still priced like it's a premium brand. At least the generics are priced like generics. Craftsman tools have really fallen in quality the past 5 years or so. I've given up on replacing any Cman ratchets I break, and instead just buy S-K or Cornwell/Mac/Matco. S-O is too expensive for me. For cheap (boat tools) ratchets, I use HF. They last about a year, then seize up. By then, the sockets are junk from rust, and some are missing. I just go spend $20 and get a new set. Uthor posted:Their prices are great when your mom works there and gets everything at cost! I should really utilize them for tools in addition to random nuts and bolts and parts. oxbrain posted:They won't sell you a crap brand, their customer service is amazing, and they have an unbelievable return policy too. Grainger is a good resource too, but I've found their customer service to be a little lacking sometimes. Kynetx posted:Hey mister crabby-pants... Needle-nose pliers work for retrieving taps that are flush or below the surface just fine. The reason I said "needle-nose" is because you can jam the tips of the jaws into the channels of the tap and use them as an ad-hoc spanner. I've rescued a couple this way quite a few times. You must have much better luck that I do... Every time I've tried that, I end up with a tap AND broken pliers, and more of a mess. When a tap breaks, its usually because it seizes in place. Then again, I'm most often tapping stainless and aluminum. SS Galls, and aluminum gums up the threads of the tap, jamming it.
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# ? Feb 3, 2010 21:19 |
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Haven't you guys ever heard of a tap extractor? For example: http://www.waltontools.com/products/extractr.htm also: http://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&source=hp&q=%22tap+extractor%22&meta=&aq=f&oq=
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# ? Feb 3, 2010 21:46 |
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Z3n posted:What's the best/easiest way to measure bolts? I've never really had to deal with this before, thanks to always using OEM stuff, but honestly, getting reamed for 10-20x the cost of a bolt because you're getting it from a motorcycle dealership gets really old.
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# ? Feb 3, 2010 21:56 |
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I'm partial to MSC over grainger because grainger's prices suck in general. The search on their website is also bad. Both catalogs have lots of good info about tool selection too, you can learn a lot about tools you didnt know about by reading them.
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# ? Feb 3, 2010 22:02 |
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Z3n posted:What's the best/easiest way to measure bolts? I've never really had to deal with this before, thanks to always using OEM stuff, but honestly, getting reamed for 10-20x the cost of a bolt because you're getting it from a motorcycle dealership gets really old. Most accurate? Pitch gauge and caliper like said above, you can save some time by using a card that has all the bolt diameters on it with a pitch gage. Almost all fasteners on a car made in the 90s or late will be metric. Also learn bolt grades because hardware store bolts are often grade 2 or 5 and are not appropriate replacements for grade 8 or 8.8 bolts that youll find in most applications.
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# ? Feb 3, 2010 22:08 |
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RealKyleH posted:Also learn bolt grades because hardware store bolts are often grade 2 or 5 and are not appropriate replacements for grade 8 or 8.8 bolts that youll find in most applications. If you want a good general guide to fasteners, Carroll Smith's Nuts, bolts, fasteners and plumbing handbook is very good.
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# ? Feb 3, 2010 22:24 |
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scapulataf posted:Haven't you guys ever heard of a tap extractor? Holy gently caress, how have I not known about this until now? And yes, I forgot about MSC. Another doorstop catalog, and excellent prices.
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# ? Feb 3, 2010 22:38 |
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InitialDave posted:I don't know if you meant to give that impression, but an 8.8 is not equivalent to a grade 8, it's more like a grade 5. Grade 8 is equivalent to 10.9. EYE. OPENING. Thanks for the info.
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# ? Feb 3, 2010 22:42 |
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I, too was unaware of this. The more you know...
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# ? Feb 3, 2010 22:49 |
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InitialDave posted:I don't know if you meant to give that impression, but an 8.8 is not equivalent to a grade 8, it's more like a grade 5. Grade 8 is equivalent to 10.9. I did not, I was just saying I usually see grade 8 or grade 8.8 on engines/stuff I work on and that lower grade bolts were a bad idea.
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# ? Feb 3, 2010 23:14 |
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InitialDave posted:I don't know if you meant to give that impression, but an 8.8 is not equivalent to a grade 8, it's more like a grade 5. Grade 8 is equivalent to 10.9. It's because 8.8 is imperial and 8 is metric, correct? I always see the grade 8 markings on japanese motorcycles.
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# ? Feb 3, 2010 23:22 |
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RealKyleH posted:I did not, I was just saying I usually see grade 8 or grade 8.8 on engines/stuff I work on and that lower grade bolts were a bad idea. Z3n posted:It's because 8.8 is imperial and 8 is metric, correct? I always see the grade 8 markings on japanese motorcycles. You could technically use them the other way round, but it'd be a bit dodgy, because everyone associates them with imperial and metric fasteners respectively. Personally, I think the metric system is better, for several reasons. First, it gives you real values - the first number is the ultimate tensile strength in units of 100 MPa, the second number being the yield strength of the fastener as a proportion of this UTS. So a 10.9 is 1000 MPa UTS, and has a yield strength of .9x1000 = 900 MPa. 1 MPa = 145 PSI. Secondly, the range of "standard" grades is better. The SAE imperial grades stop at 8 (~10.9), whereas with the metric system you can have 12.9, 14.9 and so on. Lastly, the system of rating by MPa rather than a "grade" is how bolts are specified when making specialist or custom applications - in these instances, imperial stuff will be rated in KSI (which, logically, is 1000xPSI), though metrification of the world in general means the specs often call out MPa also. It gets more complicated the more specialised you go with the intended use, and you start seeing callouts for nominal "cold" strength, plus a minimum strength level at combustion temperatures for things like turbine applications. Aside from the fairly logical sizing of threads for overall diameter and pitch, here's also the whole business of the precise dimensions and classes of threads, but that's really not something you should have to worry about for day-to-day stuff.
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# ? Feb 3, 2010 23:59 |
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Then you bump into things like Class's for the corresponding nuts/locknuts.I had to rebuild a humvee frame using cadmium plated bolts which can be.. uh hard to come by locally. The bolts were all grade 8, but the locknuts were class 10, which was equivalent to grade 8. I wound up using what ever meets ASTM and MIL certification for bigger trucks. I got a fair case of sticker shock, buying the proper bolts, locknuts and washers for a big frame job ran me several hundred dollars and it was about 90 lbs in 2 boxes from mcmaster carr. For anyone that wants to use the "proper" bolts on their project, I suggest checking for a local mcmaster depot or a fastenal location. The only down side is you may only need 4 specific bolts for something but you'll have to buy a pack of 25. I went to Ace hardware once to get black trim screws, they were marked black phosphate which was rust resistant, only for them to completely turn brown and rotten within a week, turns out they were actually black oxide coated Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Feb 4, 2010 |
# ? Feb 4, 2010 00:17 |
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Wow didnt know all that about bolts. Thanks
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# ? Feb 4, 2010 04:02 |
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BigKOfJustice posted:For anyone that wants to use the "proper" bolts on their project, I suggest checking for a local mcmaster depot or a fastenal location. The only down side is you may only need 4 specific bolts for something but you'll have to buy a pack of 25. On one occasion I needed something specific (and non-standard for my car because we drilled and tapped some holes), qty. 3. The guy at the counter just let me have 3 of what I needed. making friends with the fastenal guy is important for sure.
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# ? Feb 4, 2010 05:47 |
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sharkytm posted:Lucky you, my mom's a teacher. So I get education for free, just like everyone else in the US. McMaster also has a great college scholarship program for children of workers, so I got close to a free education, too.
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# ? Feb 4, 2010 07:48 |
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I have gone to the local Fastenal a few times. If the young guy is working he will sell me individual nuts and bolts. The older guy makes be buy whole bags though.
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# ? Feb 4, 2010 13:47 |
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ab0z posted:On one occasion I needed something specific (and non-standard for my car because we drilled and tapped some holes), qty. 3. The guy at the counter just let me have 3 of what I needed. making friends with the fastenal guy is important for sure. Aye. At my local fastenal, we used to be able to buy one or two, a half dozen etc. But now they say "you can only buy a few if you want, but its gonna cost you 10 bucks to open the bag".
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# ? Feb 4, 2010 14:16 |
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Uthor posted:McMaster also has a great college scholarship program for children of workers, so I got close to a free education, too. That's pretty awesome. I'll order from them to support that PBCrunch posted:I have gone to the local Fastenal a few times. If the young guy is working he will sell me individual nuts and bolts. The older guy makes be buy whole bags though. Maybe I'm just continually stuck with project-itis, but I don't have a problem buying 25 or even 100 bolts at a time. I always need more of the drat things.
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# ? Feb 4, 2010 19:18 |
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I just want to let people know that True Value sometimes has very cheap tools in their clearance bins. It usually contains sockets at my local store, and I have no idea if any other stores even do this. These sockets were in a bin marked $1 each: This is definitely a ymmv situation, but it might be worth a look if you need some big rear end sockets for cheap. There were many more smaller sockets in the bin and I'm thinking about going back for more.
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# ? Feb 4, 2010 19:21 |
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Holy crap I'm stopping at True Value this week. My wife works next door to one.
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# ? Feb 4, 2010 19:41 |
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That 36mm will take off the axle nut on a N-body.
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# ? Feb 4, 2010 21:58 |
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Why can't everyone just pick a freaking size for axle nuts? I have 5 different sizes of axle nut sockets now and only 1 of them is for one of MY cars. These things are not cheap. (ok $10 or so each but it adds up). $1 for a 36mm axle nut socket is a great deal even if you don't specifically need it.
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# ? Feb 4, 2010 22:01 |
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Just "rent" one from AZ if you don't have it and you don't own the car in question.
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# ? Feb 4, 2010 22:02 |
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Skyssx posted:Just "rent" one from AZ if you don't have it and you don't own the car in question. I've done this on occasion but my policy is to buy the tool the first time I need it and then I'll just conveniently have it next time. This only makes sense for me because there is literally never not a car apart in my garage, and it's a different one ever 2 weeks or so. tools are never put away for more than 24hrs.
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# ? Feb 4, 2010 22:05 |
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ab0z posted:my policy is to buy the tool the first time I need it and then I'll just conveniently have it next time. Whenever you undertake any job, automotive or not, purchasing necessary tooling has to be calculated in the cost. To do good work, you need the right tools. Besides... think about all the money you save on labor. Many times when doing "favors" for friends that may require a tool I don't have, unless it's something very expensive, I will have the person buy the tool, and keep it for myself as a Thank You gift for my services.
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# ? Feb 5, 2010 00:34 |
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Aceshighxxx posted:I just want to let people know that True Value sometimes has very cheap tools in their clearance bins. It usually contains sockets at my local store, and I have no idea if any other stores even do this. You really got a good deal there. The 36mm, for example, costs the store ~$3.50 CornHolio posted:Holy crap I'm stopping at True Value this week. My wife works next door to one. Keep in mind that True Value stores are independently owned and operated. Unless the store is owned by the same person, they probably won't have the same specials/clearance sales. Mooecow fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Feb 5, 2010 |
# ? Feb 5, 2010 01:25 |
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dv6speed posted:
This is how I started building my tool collection. If I'm going to work on your car, I need to have service literature and correct tools. If I don't have one or more of those things, guess who's buying it? I'll give you a hint, it's not me. Labor pricing is case of beer times how much of a bitch I think the job will be.
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# ? Feb 5, 2010 04:37 |
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ab0z posted:This is how I started building my tool collection. If I'm going to work on your car, I need to have service literature and correct tools. If I don't have one or more of those things, guess who's buying it? I'll give you a hint, it's not me. Labor pricing is case of beer times how much of a bitch I think the job will be. I paid two fifths of some cheap Canadian whiskey to get my car primered. Ended up doing a lot of it myself as my "help" was hammered on liquor and paint fumes.
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# ? Feb 5, 2010 05:13 |
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Mooecow posted:Keep in mind that True Value stores are independently owned and operated. Unless the store is owned by the same person, they probably won't have the same specials/clearance sales. Yeah they didn't have poo poo. I really need to go to Harbor Freight this weekend, they always have cheap poo poo sitting out front. And I have $60 worth of gift cards.
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# ? Feb 5, 2010 05:50 |
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There's an alignment machine on the local CL for $500, "needs to be calibrated". Sooo tempted... If I got that and some tire mounting and balancing gear, I'd be entirely self sufficient in the garage.
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# ? Feb 5, 2010 05:53 |
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Tell me if we should buy this: http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...51&cmRelshp=sim as a floor model with a crack in the plastic housing for $50. Apparently, it was $300 to start, and would be $100 to a non-employee. Obviously, if the crack appears to impair function, the deal is off; otherwise, JB Weld to the rescue. Uses would be air ratchets and small grinders (mostly cleaning rust, not cutting), and buffers. Painting if the thing could actually handle it.
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# ? Feb 5, 2010 06:29 |
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Self sufficient, gently caress, I think goons would pay you to use it. Alignments and tire mounting / balancing are the only jobs I absolutely have to pay someone to do.
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# ? Feb 5, 2010 06:36 |
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Splizwarf posted:Tell me if we should buy this: quote:oil-free pump Option 1: No. Option 2: Buy it, sell it on craigslist for $100-150, use that money to buy a better compressor.
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# ? Feb 5, 2010 06:42 |
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ab0z posted:There's an alignment machine on the local CL for $500, "needs to be calibrated". Sooo tempted...
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# ? Feb 5, 2010 07:08 |
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oxbrain posted:Option 1: No. I'm half relieved, half disappointed. Thanks.
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# ? Feb 5, 2010 11:53 |
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ab0z posted:There's an alignment machine on the local CL for $500, "needs to be calibrated".
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# ? Feb 5, 2010 13:38 |
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dv6speed posted:You forgot a lathe for turning brake drums and rotors, or do you already have that? There's one of those up for sale too... InitialDave posted:So you need to align your alignment machine? Insert Xzibit gag here... Sup dawg, I heard you liked precision... Nah I'm not getting the alignment machine. It would pay for itself fairly quickly, but I have no idea where you get something like that calibrated, and no good way to transport it. Plus I already have firestone's lifetime alignment on the cars I know I'm keeping for a while. Brake rotors and drums are cheap enough that I can't see paying off that lathe anytime soon. I assume it's possible to turn rotors on a normal lathe in some way?
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# ? Feb 5, 2010 15:22 |
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# ? Mar 28, 2024 17:39 |
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ab0z posted:I assume it's possible to turn rotors on a normal lathe in some way? If you can fit the rotor/drum on the lathe, it'll turn it. You'll just need various faceplates and stuff to adapt the rotors to the spindle. You wouldn't use a chuck for that. Since it does involve machining a large diameter piece of cast iron, you'll want the baddest, biggest, beefiest lathe you can get to cut down on chatter. If you are very ambitious, you can always build your own (Using old engine blocks as the main building component): http://opensourcemachine.org AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 15:48 on Feb 5, 2010 |
# ? Feb 5, 2010 15:38 |