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Yog-Sothoth posted: 
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Feb 14, 2010 17:33
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Yog-Sothoth posted:white primer  
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Feb 14, 2010 17:34
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So I know that washes are sort of bad on vehicles (pooling) but my space wolves get their colour by using two successive washes. Is there a way I can get that same sort of shading on my rhinos? I seem to recall having read about using "filters" for shading somewhere but I don't recall the details.
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Feb 14, 2010 18:39
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Cakefool posted:Is best.
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Feb 14, 2010 21:19
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Chenghiz posted:So I know that washes are sort of bad on vehicles (pooling) but my space wolves get their colour by using two successive washes. Is there a way I can get that same sort of shading on my rhinos? I seem to recall having read about using "filters" for shading somewhere but I don't recall the details. My Purge also require a wash of Thraka Green, and I just did a predator. As long as you make sure it doesn't pool on flat areas you should be fine. I didn't do anything special. also: PV, could you post a predator you have painted up? I'm looking at all the small details and I'm not sure what to paint... *double post over and out* edit: dammit! 
Red Robin Hood fucked around with this message at 21:52 on Feb 14, 2010 |
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Feb 14, 2010 21:21
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Ive never painted a pred, sorry
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Feb 14, 2010 21:51
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Anphrax posted:My Purge also require a wash of Thraka Green, and I just did a predator. As long as you make sure it doesn't pool on flat areas you should be fine. I didn't do anything special. Did you just brush up the pools, or did you not wash the whole area? I've been brushing up pools on my Grey Hunters and it yields some nice colour gradients, but I am worried that the wash will dry too fast for that to work on the bigger sections of vehicles.
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Feb 14, 2010 21:59
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Chenghiz posted:Did you just brush up the pools, or did you not wash the whole area? I've been brushing up pools on my Grey Hunters and it yields some nice colour gradients, but I am worried that the wash will dry too fast for that to work on the bigger sections of vehicles. I washed every green spot (the other areas are black). I dip my brush in the wash, go along the edges and get them nice and washed, then do a quick run-over on the flat areas.
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Feb 14, 2010 22:01
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I'm stymied. I want to paint up some Rhinos for my sisters, but I can't decide what of their colors: Fix posted:should be the primary color on the tank. Doing white on such large, flat surfaces sounds pretty imposing to me, but the enchanted blue would be to bright and annoying. There's also a lot of grey to them, which could be ok, I guess, but I don't know if that will be too drab, really, and the exact grey I used won't work because, well, it's gesso and that's a no-no for tanks. I don't suppose anyone has done an online rhino painter like they have with other models have they?
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Feb 14, 2010 22:08
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You could paint them in generic Inquisitional colors (dark red and black). Might contrast well with the lighter color of the Sisters EDIT: For the average Ork player: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/279107.page bhsman fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Feb 14, 2010 |
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Feb 14, 2010 22:12
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You don't think it would just clash or look like I'm borrowing them from someone else?
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Feb 14, 2010 22:15
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Find a picture of one on the 'net and hold a sister up to it and decide for yourself.
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Feb 14, 2010 22:18
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Fix posted:I don't suppose anyone has done an online rhino painter like they have with other models have they? I think the army painter from Dawn of War 1 let you pick colors on a Rhino.
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Feb 14, 2010 22:25
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Fix posted:I'm stymied. I actually think the blue would be good, but I can understand if you're not keen on it. Given the options, I think that doing grey with white-and-blue highlights and trim would be the way to go. White would actually be really awesome, get PV to tell you how he did the white on his Howling Griffon tanks (I think). I don't think you should use the 'traditional' Inquisitor colors - this might make sense for Storm Troopers or something, but Sisters have their own special vehicles that they own and maintain, and they should be matched to the Order.
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Feb 14, 2010 22:43
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Anphrax posted:Is best. Brushed wash, gotcha. I went ahead & did that, plus blocked in the black for the cables, vents & weapons. As the edges & trims are going to be silver, how would green look for weapons casings? I'll also dob on a highlight when I get the courage up  Dear god why is painting so difficult? I was seriously considering breaking out the Defiler->Knight project, just to put off the point when I have to paint...
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Feb 14, 2010 22:53
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Fix posted:I'm stymied. Why not do them as a slightly darker shade of enchanted blue with some white panels? It'll cut down on the eye searing effect while fitting in with the sisters.
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Feb 14, 2010 23:28
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Paint Vagrant had this specifically at one point and I thought I bookmarked it but I'm looking for the site that gave color equivalents of the various paint brands (Citdel, P3, etc..). A perfect example is I'm trying to paint some Menoth true to their color scheme using Citadel paints and am not sure what shade of red I need to use. Anyone still have that link floating around?
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Feb 15, 2010 00:07
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http://colors.silicon-dragons.com/full_line.php
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Feb 15, 2010 00:31
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Fyrbrand posted:http://colors.silicon-dragons.com/full_line.php Exactly what I needed. Thanks!
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Feb 15, 2010 00:39
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Thanks, guys. I'll play around and see what looks good.
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Feb 15, 2010 01:42
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Had a productive day, cleaned, assembled, sanded, gap-filled and prepped a full unit of Precursor Knights + UA, the new Nemo sculpt, a Stormclad, a Cyclone, and a Hunter in a couple of hours. Bonus gessoed eNemo sitting on my pin vice in back.
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Feb 15, 2010 01:44
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So, I picked up some washes recently. My guard are somewhat off, but not too far from the normal cadian scheme. The pants are a darker shade, the green is more drab, and the shirt is lighter. Would I be better off washing them with gryphonne sepia or badab black?
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Feb 15, 2010 02:31
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Fast_Food_Knight posted:Base them, wash them (devlan mud all over will look good, but thin it a little) and be proud that your first attempt was light years ahead of most other people's. They have a pretty heavy devlan wash that I applied before the drybrush but it doesnt really show well due to the picture not being the best. I really appreciate the complement, definitely helps motivate me to keep plugging away at my horde.
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Feb 15, 2010 03:25
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Someone give me a good idea for basing. I was just going to do the normal 'dip in sand, scatter some green flock around', but being as my guys are Cryx, horrible evil blighted undead things, I wanted to do something different. Not too hard though! I think I'm going to do water effects for the amphibious crabjacks, but for everyone else, what could I do to make the bases look cool? Maybe the ground around them has died?
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Feb 15, 2010 03:31
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Whoever it was who recommended FW artist ink white, you're a star. Really impressed with it so far. Two coats to cover a dark orangey yellow, no thinning and no chalking at all.Chenghiz posted:So I know that washes are sort of bad on vehicles (pooling) but my space wolves get their colour by using two successive washes. Is there a way I can get that same sort of shading on my rhinos? I seem to recall having read about using "filters" for shading somewhere but I don't recall the details. On my last DG rhino I used a large flat brush, thinned the wash a bit, and was careful not to use too much at a time. Edit: I too would like some ideas for interesting 40k basing (no huge rocks that overlap the base rim). Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Feb 15, 2010 |
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Feb 15, 2010 03:51
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Whoever it was who recommended FW artist ink white, you're a star. Really impressed with it so far. Two coats to cover a dark orangey yellow, no thinning and no chalking at all. The whaaaat? Tell me more please! Painting white over black is such a whore
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Feb 15, 2010 03:55
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Daler-Rowney FW Acrylic Artists Ink. I think it was this thread, could have been any one of the others we have.
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Feb 15, 2010 03:57
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Cryx basing: mangled limbs if you happen to have a bunch of bits laying around that you can use/feel like doing some sculpting; swamps and blighted landscapes are also nice standbys.
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Feb 15, 2010 03:58
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Whoever it was who recommended FW artist ink white, you're a star. Really impressed with it so far. Two coats to cover a dark orangey yellow, no thinning and no chalking at all.  The black is pretty awesome, too, especially if you're going for a bit of a shiny look before you mute it with the dullcote. Then there's the pearlescent stuff, which can do some wicked weird things for metals when you wash over it. Try the burnt umber for shiny mud. I've got like 6 or 7 different bottles of this stuff, some completely impractical. Fix fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Feb 15, 2010 |
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Feb 15, 2010 04:17
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Daler-Rowney FW Acrylic Artists Ink. it's ink but thick enough to be painted on normally? No way. You're just trying to deceive me
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Feb 15, 2010 04:23
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The consistency is about what you (well, I) would normally thin white to to avoid chalking. Milk-ish.Fix posted:
I might pick up the umber and black... I hate painting black normally because it doesn't seem to thin down very well, and I fancy making some of those awesomepaintjob.com washes. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Feb 15, 2010 |
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Feb 15, 2010 04:28
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^^ I went out and picked up the stuff to make some of those. Gotta get on that, because they really look good in his tutorials. Been too busy just doing modeling and terrain and poo poo. Yup. Instant milk-like consistency, plus a squeeze bulb dropper right in the bottle. Fix fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Feb 15, 2010 |
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Feb 15, 2010 04:29
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:I might pick up the umber and black... I hate painting black normally because it doesn't seem to thin down very well, and I fancy making some of those awesomepaintjob.com washes. I did this too, mine came out somewhat darker than badab but it airbrushes on like a dream so I love it. I probably hosed it up though because I didn't get the same size bottles as his and I'm too retarded to measure correctly
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Feb 15, 2010 05:19
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Okay, gently caress. So I understand the idea of using one brush to apply washes to large flat surfaces and another brush to wick away the pooling areas, but in practice what happened was one brush would lay down the wash and the other would... smear it around. Apparently "EZ MODE" painting is too hard for me.
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Feb 15, 2010 06:32
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Aranan posted:Okay, gently caress. So I understand the idea of using one brush to apply washes to large flat surfaces and another brush to wick away the pooling areas, but in practice what happened was one brush would lay down the wash and the other would... smear it around. Dry the second brush on some paper towel, keep pulling wash off the model with that brush & wicking it away with the paper. edit: or airbrush the wash on, you can give it a thin coat with no pooling & it acts like a glaze, just not, y'know, as subtle.
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Feb 15, 2010 07:14
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stabbington posted:Cryx basing: mangled limbs if you happen to have a bunch of bits laying around that you can use/feel like doing some sculpting; swamps and blighted landscapes are also nice standbys. What would be a good way to do a blighted landscape?
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Feb 15, 2010 16:36
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Cakefool posted:Dry the second brush on some paper towel, keep pulling wash off the model with that brush & wicking it away with the paper.  One of these days I'll have to look at getting an airbrush, but as of now I take a year to paint one model so it probably wouldn't be worth the price. Lightbox question! Do you lightbox users use a lightbox (a) with fabric on the sides/top to diffuse light from outside-the-box light sources, or do you use (b) a solid box and angle the light to bounce off of the inside of the sides/top?
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Feb 15, 2010 17:22
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Aranan posted:Lightbox question! Do you lightbox users use a lightbox (a) with fabric on the sides/top to diffuse light from outside-the-box light sources, or do you use (b) a solid box and angle the light to bounce off of the inside of the sides/top? I use a white fabric pop-up ikea £1 bin with a pair of little halogen lights through the fabric.
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Feb 15, 2010 17:43
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Cakefool posted:I use a white fabric pop-up ikea £1 bin with a pair of little halogen lights through the fabric. Don't suppose you could find it on the ikea website and post a link? My photography at the moment is entirely based on the availability of the sun, and it seems to dislike Cardiff most of the time..
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Feb 15, 2010 19:22
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Skarsnik you can pick one up in primark for £2 that's what I did. You'll have to take your craft knife to the top though and open it up, just to make things easier.
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Feb 15, 2010 19:42
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