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kuffs posted:It's not RC Revenge, but the game I'm talking about (Re-volt) is mentioned in that link. It was kind of tough to play, but I had a lot of fun. It was also released on PC as well. The game still ended up having pretty detailed physics engine, and would allow you to pull off all sorts of tricks and even sometimes reach places not intended. One of the first examples I remember is when me and my brother were playing one of the outdoor/suburbs tracks and found a corner where, with the right technique, you could use the end of a driveway (and the small ramp formed it formed on the curb) to launch yourself into the air, hopefully twisting to the side enough that you could land sideways on a fence that curved around the corner, and with enough speed, you could ride the fence till it stopped curving. We made a game out of trying to put skidmarks as high up on the fence as possible. The game was a lot more than the Mario Kart clone it looks like at first, and still makes it into our multiplayer game rotation when we get a few PC's together.
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Feb 16, 2010 02:04
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For the love of god somebody tell me where to get one of these, preferably RTR, colour isn't important. http://www.abchobbyusa.com/24407.aspx Edit:Hurr that website has them in red and blue, does anyone else know any other websites? I'd like to compare prices and have a backup option. Pretty Little Rainbow fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Feb 16, 2010 |
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Feb 16, 2010 02:35
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kuffs posted:2-speed Baja transmission in the works http://www.rctech.net/forum/oval-larger-scales-more/370556-2-speed-gear-box-hpi.html Yeah...there are a few out there. Mark at Team GoNads has been working on one forever. His is probably going to be the better design. He has worked very closely with Robinson Racing on perfecting the gears. http://www.teamgonads.com/4500.html
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Feb 16, 2010 16:08
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Somewhat Heroic posted:If you have the HPI Europe logo as your profile then I am pretty sure that was you. That's the official HPI EU account, my personal profile was linked in one of my posts above. I'm 100% sure the 2002 body will be in the US, HPI needs some new M-chassis bodies out there that no one else has made. That Baja 2-speed is going to be pretty sick  I still haven't seen a fully modded Baja run myself, the Baja Finals we've had in Europe are all HPI-only options, etc., it would be great to see them run wide open on the dunes.
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Feb 16, 2010 22:48
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Ahh, memories. R/C's defined my early teen years basically from the moment I realized that R/C's could go a hell of a lot faster than the old FastTraxx that I got for christmas when I was 10. During that period my R/C ownership looked like this (in chronological order): -Team Losi XXT: This was what I ordered out of the Tower Hobbies catalog as my first R/C. It was probably a bit ambitious for a kid just starting out, but I had a good head for mechanical things and I managed to assemble it with only a little difficulty. Man it was fun, but I must have ordered the same front arm assembly about 3 times after cracking it off jumps. -Team Losi XX4 This car just extended the experience I gained from the XXT. I broke into assembling my own motors and battery packs with this machine and also reveled in the number of runs I could get with my growing battery collection. -Schumacher Nitro21 XT It's hard to put into words how off the wall insane this truck was. Steel stamped and powdercoated chassis (weighed a ton) and a .21 cui 1/8 scale buggy engine shoehorned into a 1/10 scale chassis. The weight balance was slightly skewed with the radio battery mounted on a shelf behind the rear axle so it could pull wheelies from a standstill. It had horrible handling but that didn't matter because basically the only thing I did with it was high speed runs at the local dam access road. I finally sold my Schumacher to help come up with a down payment for my first car...which lead me down the dark road of the even more expensive hobby of car tuning. Finally, just before I got out of R/C's for good, I traded a friend of mine some PS2 games for a mint Kyosho TF-2 Type R chassis.  For those of you who are still in the hobby, do the current motors and batteries work with models as old as this one? I know it's not very expensive to buy a new chassis, but it seems like a shame to let this one go to waste. I've been toying with making it into just a casual fun car for messing around in my driveway and parking lots, but if nothing fits it I suppose I'll get rid of it and start fresh.
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Feb 17, 2010 18:21
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dayman posted:For those of you who are still in the hobby, do the current motors and batteries work with models as old as this one? I know it's not very expensive to buy a new chassis, but it seems like a shame to let this one go to waste. I've been toying with making it into just a casual fun car for messing around in my driveway and parking lots, but if nothing fits it I suppose I'll get rid of it and start fresh. Yep, the brushless motors are all 540-size with the same bolt patterns, and the LiPo packs are the same size as normal 6-cell packs, so it's not totally foreign to us old-timers
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Feb 17, 2010 18:27
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krushgroove posted:Yep, the brushless motors are all 540-size with the same bolt patterns, and the LiPo packs are the same size as normal 6-cell packs, so it's not totally foreign to us old-timers Oh man, not what I wanted to hear. Now there's nothing to stop me from spending my paycheck in two places before I get it. 
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Feb 17, 2010 18:35
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yay, managed to somehow get a second receiver for my graupner 2.4ghz controller, for some reason Graupner thought it wise to make tons of kits but not sell any spare receivers. the fools! now, a question. I have a Graupner DS 8077 Digital servo, but it seems to have the jitters when i use it, even when just connected to a servotester. it can do turns from side to side just fine, but when i try to do gradual control, it's got issues with staying put. any suggestions? i've been to the shop and got a new one in exchange, but it has the same issue. edit: this is the servo: http://www.f1hobbies.com/shop.php?id=868&level= not the most expensive, but a cheap digital.
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Feb 17, 2010 19:35
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krushgroove posted:Yep, the brushless motors are all 540-size with the same bolt patterns, and the LiPo packs are the same size as normal 6-cell packs, so it's not totally foreign to us old-timers I know if you run a Venom V540 brushless in an ancient Blackfoot truck it will be awesome until the inevitable explosion of parts. Never broke so much poo poo so fast in my life.
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Feb 18, 2010 04:36
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Erm so this thread is about cars but whatever, helicopters are a lot more fun. (There, I said it) But seriously, I'm hoping some of you guys might know a bit about them. So my CX 4ch micro helicopter was fun for a while but now I'm ready for the next step up. The CX is way too easy at this point and I just get bored with it most times. I'd like a fixed pitch that would be hard enough to keep my interest but not cost me a bundle. I heard the Honey Bee FP v2 would fit the deal but I can't find any place to buy it (yet) so I'm looking at alternatives. Has anyone here heard of the E-Flite SR? It's coming out at the end of Feb apparently and the LHS have ordered a few. I'll check it out when he receive them, any pointers otherwise?
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Feb 18, 2010 23:01
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Frobbe posted:is that the 1:8 E-revo or is is the VXL 1:16? I also have an old E-Maxx. Compared to it the E-Revo is much, much more durable; I've yet to break anything except the flimsy spoiler on it where with the E-Maxx I've broken something pretty much every time I've had it out. It is however much less capable off-road than the E-Maxx but that's to be expected given the large size difference. Overall I am much happier with the Revo, it's much cheaper and runs so much faster and longer than the E-Maxx.
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Feb 18, 2010 23:12
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IsaacNewton posted:I'd like a fixed pitch that would be hard enough to keep my interest but not cost me a bundle. I heard the Honey Bee FP v2 would fit the deal but I can't find any place to buy it (yet) so I'm looking at alternatives. I'm no expert but that E-Flite one looks pretty good really. It looks nicer too. We get quite a few samples in the office and you've got it right, going from a coax to FP type single blade is the way to go if you're paying full whack for all the parts! I just brought home my first RC motorcycle today (not from my place, this was bought w/ my own money) and man does it look pretty cool. I haven't even driven it yet and I'm looking forward to a brushless motor in it and dual front brakes plus real front shocks I have some work to do to de-badge it a bit and make it look like one of the Rossi/Lorenzo vintage Yamaha yellow/black/white bikes, but that's half the fun. I think some extra-soft tires are in order to match this cold weather we've been having, too. Can't wait to try it out!
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Feb 19, 2010 01:01
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So, as it turns out, a friend of mine at work is actually an old R/C fanatic as well and is looking at getting back in. I may finally use this as an excuse to get a SC10 and try offroad. As someone who last raced when 3000 mAh NiMH cells were brand spanking new, can someone point me at a resource (or just school me) on what the hell is going on with LiIon / LiPo / LiFe packs? All I see are various voltage ratings and a "2S" or "3S" rating which appears to be related to the number of cells? What's all this talk about balancing packs? Where can I get a few cheap packs? Do I need to stick with the one pack, one heat / race rule or do most people just run one or two packs and top them between runs? Help me Something Awful, you're my only* hope. *No, not really, but I don't want to pay $7 for a goddamn RC mag which is more ad than content.
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Feb 19, 2010 05:18
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IsaacNewton posted:Erm so this thread is about cars but whatever, helicopters are a lot more fun. (There, I said it) But seriously, I'm hoping some of you guys might know a bit about them. Helos are fun but car racing is still better. That said I don't know why you wouldn't get a CP heli right away. I got one for my very first bird and even though I'm obviously not doing 3d flying yet it's not like its any more difficult to fly than a FP heli. I think it's actually easier because it reacts more directly. Probably a little trickier to set up but that's about it. Obviously there are dozens of options, but I got a Blade 400 just because the LHS has spare parts galore, and it comes with a nice radio. You can get any number of Chinese T-rex 450 clones for dirt cheap if you want to build one. If you're still hung up on the Honey Bee, eBay is the place to get one. For clones, try CNCheli - super fast shipping. Heli Direct has higher end stuff. For a Blade 400, A-Main is the cheapest I've seen. IOwnCalculus posted:So, as it turns out, a friend of mine at work is actually an old R/C fanatic as well and is looking at getting back in. I may finally use this as an excuse to get a SC10 and try offroad. An SC10 would use 2S hard case (preferably, definitely if you are going to race) LiPo batteries, something in the 5000mAh range. The other Li-x packs are still fairly exotic/rare. Yes, 2S means there are two cells in the pack, so it's a good habit to balance them every so often so the voltages aren't too far out of whack. A modern lipo charger generally has a decent balancer built in, although like I said you don't have to do it every charge. There's a Thunder Power charger that everyone likes to use, although I use a TME Xtrema, which is an excellent unit but way overkill for 2S car packs. There's also the "C" rating of a pack, which is essentially the punch available. Not so crucial in off-road, 30C would be fine, 25C even with high wind motors. Hobbyking.com is where you can get packs for super cheap - make sure to order hard case packs. They have a US warehouse now, too. I ordered a bunch for my heli and they're fine, but I still use high-end ROAR approved packs for my cars (Thunder Power, SMC). A-Main Hobbies or Stormer Racing are very reputable online hobby shops. I run two packs per car and top one up while the other is in the car. compressioncut fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Feb 19, 2010 |
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Feb 19, 2010 05:46
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If you're going with HobbyKing packs, make sure to order them soon. The 'in demand' packs sell out in a day and they take about 10 days to get to you. Anyway, compressioncut is right. A couple more notes about LiPo: - You don't need to discharge them before recharging. Some of my friends run a single pack and just hook that sucker back up to the charger after each heat. - You should have an ESC with low-voltage cutoff. LiPo packs shouldn't be over-discharged, you will ruin them. - The 'C' in any number on a LiPo pack means 'Capacity'. So a pack capable of 25C discharge means that it can discharge at 25 times its capacity. On a 5000mAh pack, that means that fucker can do 125A!. -They are loving wonderful and I'm transitioning everything over to LiPo. TX/RX, starter box. Hell, I'd run one on my glow ignitors if I didn't have a whole stack of sub-c's to go in them.
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Feb 19, 2010 08:04
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edit
James Woods fucked around with this message at 09:51 on Feb 19, 2010 |
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Feb 19, 2010 09:47
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I got an email advertising these the other day. Not sure what the quality's like, but they seem quite cute:
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Feb 19, 2010 13:46
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InitialDave posted:I got an email advertising these the other day. Not sure what the quality's like, but they seem quite cute: Looks like a Losi micro rock Crawler ripoff. i'd just like to add, that Ebay's poison to my wallet, i just ordered a bunch of aluminium stuff for my DT-02. As it is already, with full ball bearings, it can pull wheelies!
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Feb 19, 2010 14:36
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Just be careful what brand you get off eBay, I don't know what GPM or Integy is like these days, but they had pretty terrible reputations for a long time. No-name brands out of Asia can be even less well regarded.
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Feb 19, 2010 14:48
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krushgroove posted:Just be careful what brand you get off eBay, I don't know what GPM or Integy is like these days, but they had pretty terrible reputations for a long time. No-name brands out of Asia can be even less well regarded. it's from a company called 3racing. and the GPM parts have increased considerably in quality, at least the shaft on my TT-01E fit perfectly.
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Feb 19, 2010 15:32
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Ah 3Racing used to be a bit shaky as well but I've heard they've improved in recent years. I have some of their tools from way back.
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Feb 19, 2010 15:48
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kuffs posted:-They are loving wonderful and I'm transitioning everything over to LiPo. TX/RX, starter box. Hell, I'd run one on my glow ignitors if I didn't have a whole stack of sub-c's to go in them. This is what I like to hear. Thanks guys, it's going to be a bit weird working with a charger even more complex than the 20 year old Tekin BC112C. I'm in no huge rush to order things since if I do decide to greenlight myself on this as a project, step one is going to be spending a few days rummaging through my parents' garages to see what state all of my RC gear is in. I've been geeking out hardcore on everything that's changed since I last raced. Looking on Tower (and I'm sure I can find it cheaper elsewhere), the Futaba 2PL looks like a really good way to get a 2.4GHz spread-spectrum radio so I can stop worrying about crystals (I'm sure some of my crystals are probably also 20 years old by now anyway). Anyone got it / any reviews on it? I've always been a Futaba driver anyway, started out on a 2PBKA and later upgraded to a 2PEKA. I think my dad still has his ancient 3PG in the garage somewhere. That thing is a loving monster.
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Feb 19, 2010 18:11
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Eflite make some decent entry level stuff. Its very similar to esky (honeybee) stuff but the QC is better. I just looked up the SR since you mentioned it and it looks to be based on the CP Pro and I can tell you they are not easy to fly (both are collective pitch). The plastic head just doesn't have the precision needed to be stable. I'd skip any of them that use a motor drive tail. If you are ready to move up to a single rotor then get something like a Blade 400. It's better bang for the buck because it has a heading hold gyro and a belt drive tail. It also has a plastic head but the larger rotor size helps it in the stability department. It comes with a great radio that you can use on other models when you are ready to move on as well. Feel free to PM me with any more questions. -Aaron IsaacNewton posted:Erm so this thread is about cars but whatever, helicopters are a lot more fun. (There, I said it) But seriously, I'm hoping some of you guys might know a bit about them. Evil_Ash fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Feb 19, 2010 |
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Feb 19, 2010 23:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:This is what I like to hear. If you're going all lipo, you really don't need a complicated-to-use charger. The Xtrema I use couldn't be simpler, as it's entirely computerized. Just select the number of cells you have and charge rate you want (or a preconfigured memory slot) and click start. Balancing is only slightly more complicated, but the picture on the site makes it look more menacing than it is because there are two balancers hooked up. There are also lipo chargers that are substantially less expensive, but also less precise.
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Feb 19, 2010 23:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:This is what I like to hear. One thing to keep in mind is that you'll lose runtime with LiPos far faster than with NiMHs or NiCds as the temperature gets colder. Your results will probably vary depending on things like how much the battery warms up as it's being discharged and brand; mine become virtually useless around the freezing mark, with a couple of my low-C micro plane LiPos hitting the LVC almost immediately and my surface ones giving me maybe two minutes or so. I maintain some NiMHs just to run my car in the winter. No question that LiPos are great when it warms up though.
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Feb 19, 2010 23:43
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Regarding cold temps: I live in AZ. Cold is not an issue, since the coldest I would ever probably be running these would be around 55 degrees. Does balancing take longer or something?
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Feb 20, 2010 03:19
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So, I've made a low ball offer on a E-Flite CP Pro thanks to me being so loving influenceable. I can get it for 200$ CND shipped to my door. (20$ less than the EFlite SR I was hoping to get at the end of Feb) It seem fairly large to fly inside (My house is quite small..), should I go ahead on it or wait for a smaller CP heli? I was hoping for a Novus CP, it's smaller but a lot harder to control if I understand it correctly. A Novus CP might run me about 180$ total. (with a brushless upgrade hopefully) God drat it's hard to decide.
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Feb 20, 2010 03:52
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IsaacNewton posted:So, I've made a low ball offer on a E-Flite CP Pro thanks to me being so loving influenceable. I can get it for 200$ CND shipped to my door. (20$ less than the EFlite SR I was hoping to get at the end of Feb) The Novus is a Walkera helo, rebadged. They have a fairly poor reputation for electronics, and the heli is very hard to fly. The CP Pro would be a little big for house flying, and I understand it doesn't fly all that well anyway. More of a gym flyer. The SR would probably be worth the wait if you want a micro bird. The Blade mSR is a good little bird for indoor flying and would be better in your house and other smalle indoor spaces. Hobby Alley in Edmonton has good prices on eFlite stuff http://hobbyalley.com/store/category/6/237/E-Flite--Helicopters/
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Feb 20, 2010 04:31
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I fly an MSR and have been using MCX's to teach kids how to fly. They are both pretty indestructible, but they do not fly quite the same as the bigger helicopters.
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Feb 20, 2010 05:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:Regarding cold temps: I live in AZ. Cold is not an issue, since the coldest I would ever probably be running these would be around 55 degrees.
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Feb 20, 2010 06:04
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You Am I posted:Balancing Lipos does take longer. You don't have to balance, but if you want longevity, I always balance Says the man who supports the wrong company's V8  As someone who spent way more than $30 back in the day on packs with way lower performance than what you can get from Hobbyking, I won't feel too bad if I burn one, though I'll probably end up balancing them properly anyway. Anyone got any suggestions on a brushless setup? The local Pro-2 class runs 10.5 motors.
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Feb 20, 2010 06:08
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IOwnCalculus posted:
Tekin RS or RS Pro speedo, don't bother with anything else, although if you want to save a few bucks a Castle Mamba Max Pro is almost as strong. Speedos aren't as critical in off road racing, but the Tekin is a smooth, sweet piece. For motors, Trinity Duo or Duo2 based (lots of tuned motors based on these cans), Tekin Redlines, Novak Ballistics and LRP X12s. The LRP has good pop, but they're all fine motors.
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Feb 20, 2010 06:29
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Very hard to fly indoors. It's big enough to create enough ground effect to have you bouncing all over the place. I've pulled off a hover in my kitchen but that is about it. Forget about forward flight in anything smaller than a gym. I have a CP Pro and enjoy it, but it is a serious hand full even in the hands of an experienced pilot. I enjoyed the challenge of learning to fly it though. Eflite may be a bit more expensive than Esky or Walkera, but it's worth it, they also stand behind their product anytime I have had an electronics failure. IsaacNewton posted:
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Feb 20, 2010 18:15
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I'm going to ditch the CP Pro idea then, I'm mainly wanting to fly it indoor. What about the SR? The mSR was recommended, is it going to bore me as quickly as the CX did? My understanding of the SR is it'll be a cross between the mSR and the CP, is that correct? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzjnTdv6uLI He goes saying that the 'beginner helping hand' is built into the remote, hence if I get bored with it I could upgrade the remote and have harder / better control over the heli without changing the heli. That's very interesting to me. I wish I had the money for a 400 Blade but it seems way too big for indoor flight and it's a tad too expensive for my taste.
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Feb 20, 2010 19:04
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IOwnCalculus posted:Looking on Tower (and I'm sure I can find it cheaper elsewhere), the Futaba 2PL looks like a really good way to get a 2.4GHz spread-spectrum radio so I can stop worrying about crystals (I'm sure some of my crystals are probably also 20 years old by now anyway). Anyone got it / any reviews on it? I've always been a Futaba driver anyway, started out on a 2PBKA and later upgraded to a 2PEKA. I can't say enough things bout the Spektrum DX3S. At $200-250 it's a bit pricey but it has ten model memory, telemetry, digital reverse and trim, and a bazillion other custom settings if you really want to geek out. Plus it comes with one regular and one telemetry receiver and a full set of telemetry sensors. These alone would cost you about $200 if purchased separately. It also comes with rechargeable batteries with a harness to fit them to any modern charger. You could even leave them in the Tx and plug your charger into a port in the base of the grip for quick charging at the track. I'm an old timer like you who got back into this hobby THANKS TO THIS loving THREAD and I gotta say that the amount of control and response you get with these 2.4ghz rigs is miles beyond what I thought capable for the hobby back in the eighties. Not to mention the loving range. When I'm at the beach my only limiting factor is my eyesight at a quarter mile out when standing on top of a dune. The point is, buy once save later and if you must buy Futaba, go for the 3PK. If you're getting serious about this hobby again you'll want a radio that you won't want to upgrade in a year.
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Feb 21, 2010 10:37
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I love my KO Mars. It isn't huge like a 3PK, and can take (and has) a Spektrum module. Plus I won it at a club raffle, so free is always the best 
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Feb 21, 2010 12:13
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need tips on snowproofing various electronics! it's great fun to thrash my DT-02 in the snow, but it's not so fun when the ESC or receiver cuts off due to something as silly as a short circuit and has to dry before they will work again.
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Feb 21, 2010 12:34
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Watch this, Frobbe. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=792xio8mpZ8
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Feb 21, 2010 18:04
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James Woods posted:I can't say enough things bout the Spektrum DX3S. At $200-250 it's a bit pricey but it has ten model memory, telemetry, digital reverse and trim, and a bazillion other custom settings if you really want to geek out. Oooh, that's nice.  If I get into this hobby again and stick with it, that's probably where I'll end up long term.I must admit, though, I stumbled across this and I think for $30 I can't pass up turning an old school 2PBKA into a 2.4GHz set for shits and grins. Either that or I'll just take the lame route and make sure my 2PEKA works fine and just go with it for a while.
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Feb 21, 2010 18:55
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I'd go to the hobby shop and hold a few radios. I've been running Futaba's since I got into this hobby. And moving over to the Spektrum felt wrong. I don't like the balance, the grip, and the way the wheel felt. So I ended up going with the Futaba 3pm 2.4ghz and absolutely love it. Feels like home.
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Feb 21, 2010 19:44
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