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sirbeefalot posted:Have you tried them out yet? I've heard its stupid easy to lock the rear up with sintered pads, though maybe that's just a pre-2008 thing.
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Feb 16, 2010 00:22
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Endless Mike posted:Yeah, I'd pay that if I could ride year round. As it is, I dug my covered bike out of four feet of snow this morning. QFT. At least I live in San Diego so I get my money's worth, I can ride pretty much every day of the year. The poor bastards up in Brawley, Bakersfield or Fresno have to pay almost as much, and look where they have to live. 
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Feb 16, 2010 08:14
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I think the next mod I'm going to do is to fit a car battery in place of the loving double-As under the seat. Stopped for gas this morning right after I left the house, and made the mistake of moving the choke. Didn't fire up after one or two attempts, and then the battery was too weak to do anything but make me late. 
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Feb 17, 2010 19:09
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sirbeefalot posted:I think the next mod I'm going to do is to fit a car battery in place of the loving double-As under the seat. Stopped for gas this morning right after I left the house, and made the mistake of moving the choke. Didn't fire up after one or two attempts, and then the battery was too weak to do anything but make me late. Sounds like either an old battery or you've got a charging system problem. Have you checked voltage with the bike running and reved up to 5kish?
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Feb 17, 2010 19:12
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Z3n posted:Sounds like either an old battery or you've got a charging system problem. Have you checked voltage with the bike running and reved up to 5kish? Not yet, will do after work today though. The battery was supposedly new when I bought the bike last April, but I have killed it a couple times now so who knows. I don't think its the charging system, but I'll check voltage anyway. What should it be if everything is ok? Like 13.5-14 volts or something?
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Feb 17, 2010 20:07
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sirbeefalot posted:Not yet, will do after work today though. The battery was supposedly new when I bought the bike last April, but I have killed it a couple times now so who knows. I don't think its the charging system, but I'll check voltage anyway. What should it be if everything is ok? Like 13.5-14 volts or something? 13.5-14.5. Anything over that and you're overcharging, anything under that and you're not gonna maintain a charge. Sounds like the battery is going regardless though...what sort of battery is it?
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Feb 17, 2010 20:09
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Basically this.
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Feb 17, 2010 20:25
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Ahh, ok. I spring for high end batteries because I feel they're worth it...the cheap ones tend to not handle abuse quite as well.
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Feb 17, 2010 20:28
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YUASA or nothing
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Feb 17, 2010 21:01
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Z3n posted:Ahh, ok. I spring for high end batteries because I feel they're worth it...the cheap ones tend to not handle abuse quite as well. I think I will too, from this point out. That was just what was in the bike, and it worked (...most of the time) so I never thought twice about it. E; Got a reading at the battery of 14.5 or so at 5k RPM. sirbeefalot fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Feb 18, 2010 |
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Feb 17, 2010 22:35
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sirbeefalot posted:I think I will too, from this point out. That was just what was in the bike, and it worked (...most of the time) so I never thought twice about it. Yeah it's not until one strands you that you get really unhappy. Get a new YUASA battery, (it'll be expensive but last 2-7x as long as the cheapies), and then immediately check the charging system when you install it to make sure you don't fry your new, shiny battery.
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Feb 17, 2010 22:58
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A Harley Davidson dealership is getting so desperate that they've added Triumph to their offerings: http://www.newsobserver.com/business/local_state/story/346678.html?storylink=misearch I guarantee this would not have flown with corporate if Harley was doing well, but their tune changes when nobody is buying their poo poo.
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Feb 19, 2010 15:27
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I've actually seen more than a couple of Triumph/HD combos. I'm not sure if they have some partnership going on or what?
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Feb 19, 2010 16:00
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Phat_Albert posted:I've actually seen more than a couple of Triumph/HD combos. I'm not sure if they have some partnership going on or what? Based on Triumph's comments on their Facebook page, it seems like it goes on a dealer-by-dealer basis, similar to how franchise restaurants may all run slightly differently or whatever. And it seems like HD guys like the classic line offered by Triumph well enough, being "historical."
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Feb 19, 2010 17:13
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Phat_Albert posted:YUASA or nothing Yep, my old man's the gm of their standby division here in aus... their batteries are the best. I used to put forklift cells together in the factory a few summers ago
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Feb 19, 2010 17:25
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Man I sure would love to go into my local Harley store and ask about the Daytona's top speed and wheelie abilities.
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Feb 20, 2010 15:35
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Well gently caress.  When I first opened the crankcase, I found this hunk of triangular black metal in the oil pan. I wrote it off, thinking it was a piece of the generator rotor I broke. Well, it wasn't. I just got done replacing my shift forks when I happened to glance down and see it.  Thats a Camshaft chain guide. I don't even know how that could break, but there it is. I was all set to get it running this weekend and now I have to wait for more parts.
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Feb 21, 2010 05:33
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Oh, tell me that's a yamaha XS series bike. Tell me.. please..
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Feb 21, 2010 09:45
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Ran into my first (major) repair problem the other day. I'm riding an 09 V Star 250. I was accelerating from a stop. As I put on the throttle and let off the clutch, I heard & felt a loud, hard clunk (like down-shifting very, very hard, into first). Turned out the chain snapped off. After killing the engine and going to the side of the road, I noticed that my bike was bleeding oil. I put the chain back on, rolled down into a hospital parking lot and called a friend of mine who had a trailer. We took it out to his parent's house; his dad works on bikes. We removed one of the crank case covers and discovered the leak problem:  Click here for the full 1200x1600 image.  Click here for the full 1200x1600 image.  Click here for the full 1200x1600 image.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. The only conclusion we can come to is that the chain snapped forward and sheared that piece right off. The part that really sucks is that it's on the engine block. Were it just a hole, we'd patch it and move on. But it's not. Oil flows behind that screw hole, and we don't want to just cover it and move on. Were it an older bike, we figured it might've been an oil drip to keep the chain lubed. But it's a 2009, so we're at a bit of a loss. My friends and I have been going over numerous diagrams but haven't been able to find it labelled on any of them. According to my friend's dad, I've got a few options: -Get a new block and pay to have it installed. -Get a new block and install it ourselves (he's rebuilt entire bikes before, and says it'd be good experience for us anyways). -Do an engine swap and try to throw something bigger on the frame with little to no modification (if I'm going to be spending that much money anyway, why the hell not?). -The least safe option, patch it with the screw in (even if it requires removing the engine). I wanted to get your guy's take on this. All of this was totally my fault, too, due to lack of maintenance; my friend's dad surmised that the chain snapped forward because it was loose. I'm talking really loose. I'm not sure if you can tell by the last picture, but it's basically just hanging there. 
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Feb 21, 2010 09:55
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If it's an '09 bike then shouldn't it still be under warranty? You could argue defective parts because the chain shouldn't snap on a recent bike unless the tension was too much.
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Feb 21, 2010 10:35
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ranathari posted:If it's an '09 bike then shouldn't it still be under warranty? You could argue defective parts because the chain shouldn't snap on a recent bike unless the tension was too much. I forgot to put the whole warranty thing in there: While we were loading the bike into the trailer, I called the dealer I bout it from. "The motorcycle people left here in November. I don't have any forwarding information, but I think they're going to be called 'Red Line Powersports' or something." I bought the bike used with about 340 miles on it. The dealer was a co-op between two groups who shared the same building (Porsche sales & repair and motorcycle sales & repair). I knew people who've bought from them in the past & gotten bikes repaired there with no problems.
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Feb 21, 2010 18:00
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What originally plugged that, any ideas? I'd probably just reweld screw it in, weld the screw in place, and ride it until it explodes. Of course, you're going to need a good welder to do it, because you don't want to cook the bearings or anything, but it's definitely possible to fix it, as long as that's not some special hole.
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Feb 21, 2010 20:23
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We're not sure. Like I said, it looks like an oil drip for the chain, but a modern bike isn't going to have one, and we haven't been able to find it on any of the diagrams. I think I'm going to either weld some metal over it or slab some JB Weld on there. If it doesn't work, I was going to have to replace the block anyway.
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Feb 21, 2010 20:47
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Pope Mobile posted:I forgot to put the whole warranty thing in there: Might be a drive to get it repaired, but still...it looks like there's 6-8 dealers in the Seatac area that should be able to help you out?
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Feb 22, 2010 01:12
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I've got a time slotted for bringing the bike in on Tuesday and working it on Wednesday at a local dealer. I'm going to go in and talk them before bringing my bike down and see about warranty and cost.
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Feb 22, 2010 03:45
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I have learned the fine art of how to gently caress up your gas tank and fairings through bad paint jobs. I am soon going to learn the fine art of slowly fixing these mistakes
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Feb 22, 2010 04:48
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Do not use chemical strippers on fairings. You will cry if you do.
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Feb 22, 2010 05:24
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We stopped by Colorado Powersports yesterday afternoon. It was my first time in a motorcycle shop, and thus, the first time I'd gotten a chance to 'try on' a few different bikes. Some thoughts, in no particular order: Tons of gussied up Victory cruisers (and a black one that I could even live with, if I could get past my dislike of all things "potato"). Jendywo found a few she'd like to have brought home with her - a blue Victory Vegas Low in particular. They had one that was $20,000 worth of ridiculous with a sign on it that said "TAKE A TEST RIDE TODAY!". For the extra hilarity, it'd been snowing all night. I believe that motorcycles should not have footboards, and I'll leave it at that. I'm *really* glad I didn't start with an SV650. Good loving god, that thing was the most uncomfortable bike for me in the whole shop, including the tiny pitbike (unironically parked next to that $20k beast). It felt like 100% of the weight above my belt was being supported by my wrists - a pushup on wheels, if you will. Sat on an R6 and an FZ6R side by side - night and day different. The FZ was, I think the most comfortable bike in the whole shop. The TW200 was bigger (taller, mostly) than I'd expected it to be from the pictures I've seen. drat if it ain't cute with those tires, though. The Hayabusa looked as silly in person as it does on the internet. It looks...I dunno...organic - like the perfect picture of a Hayabusa would be with a  riding it. Carry the theme of the bike through to the rider. Or vice versa.And, I found my doom. Backstory: A neighbor here in the complex had their Honda Shadow Spirit parked next to their DRZ400SM. A couple times I walked by with the dog, and stopped next to the DRZ, looked at how high that drat seat is, how short my legs are, and sighed. I actually sat on a DRZ400SM, and was shocked (and pleased as punch!) to find that despite the giraffelike unladen look, the suspension compresses enough that I can just about flatfoot it. I'm doomed. Doomed, I say! Kenny Rogers fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Feb 22, 2010 |
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Feb 22, 2010 06:09
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Try the SV650N. It's a completely different beast from the 650S. And yeah, DRZs are pretty much the business. I'm looking for one for me now, but I don't think I'll ever find one as nice as my g/f's
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Feb 22, 2010 06:12
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Nerobro posted:Do not use chemical strippers on fairings. You will cry if you do. Nah, that melted plastic gives the new paint a really nice gooey surface to adhere to. Think of it as a plastic "etch" pre primer treatment.
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Feb 22, 2010 06:56
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Yeeeahp. This arrived today. It was a stupid impulse buy and my office chair just broke, but gently caress it, ill not eat for a month.   FCR carb for my DRZ4, and some grips. ProGrip 737's much sticker than i was expecting. Hopefully they last longer than my renthals. And some what the gently caress while on my camera. Who needs instructions, right?  Gnomad posted:Nah, that melted plastic gives the new paint a really nice gooey surface to adhere to. Think of it as a plastic "etch" pre primer treatment. In a totally rad 45min plastic welding class i had to take(eng degree prerequisite) the guy showed us how to do this on fairings. Scrape some plastic off the inside, hit it with some chems to goo it up and then filled some scratches with it. Better than body filler i suppose? Dubs fucked around with this message at 09:59 on Feb 22, 2010 |
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Feb 22, 2010 09:54
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Jabs posted:
you sat on both an SV650S and a DRZ400SM and the SV was the most uncomfortable bike in the shop?? The DRZ's seat is shaped like /\ !
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Feb 22, 2010 11:44
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Dubs posted:Yeeeahp. YES. The FCR is in my mind the greatest carb currently or ever in production. You'll love it once you get it dialed in.
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Feb 22, 2010 16:50
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Phat_Albert posted:YES. The FCR is in my mind the greatest carb currently or ever in production. You'll love it once you get it dialed in. Speaking of getting FCRs dialed in on DRZ400s, when I rode my friend's, it had a weird hanging idle issue, where when coming to a stop it'd hang at around 3k. Any idea where to start adjusting? I'm pretty sure he got the TT kit, so all the jetting should be ok.
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Feb 22, 2010 17:32
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Linedance posted:you sat on both an SV650S and a DRZ400SM and the SV was the most uncomfortable bike in the shop?? The DRZ's seat is shaped like /\ ! I will admit that I'm 42 now, and I'm sure it would have been a great bike for me 20 years ago, when I was in better (i.e. far less round) shape.
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Feb 22, 2010 20:45
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Z3n posted:Speaking of getting FCRs dialed in on DRZ400s, when I rode my friend's, it had a weird hanging idle issue, where when coming to a stop it'd hang at around 3k. Any idea where to start adjusting? I'm pretty sure he got the TT kit, so all the jetting should be ok. Is the slide actually hanging? If the slide gets cocked a bit, or the rollers get a small fleck of poo poo in them, it can hang up the slide. The easy way to test for it is to just twist the throttle shut at the bar, and it will go down. If that's the case the slide and the slide actuation mechanism need to be cleaned.
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Feb 22, 2010 22:11
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Phat_Albert posted:Is the slide actually hanging? If the slide gets cocked a bit, or the rollers get a small fleck of poo poo in them, it can hang up the slide. The easy way to test for it is to just twist the throttle shut at the bar, and it will go down. If that's the case the slide and the slide actuation mechanism need to be cleaned. Negative, I could roll the throttle "fully shut" and it wouldn't do anything. But I don't know if it runs a push cable or not, I think it does. (The g/f's CVK40 doesn't run a push cable). Either way, though, I'll double check that. Also, while I'd hesitate to say that it was bogging, because that's far too strong a word, it felt flat at small throttle openings. I had more success rolling on to power up wheelies rather than just snapping it open. It didn't have that absurdly connected feeling that I expect from a properly tuned flatslide. That was pretty much regardless of where it was in the rev range. Thoughts?
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Feb 22, 2010 22:37
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Z3n posted:Negative, I could roll the throttle "fully shut" and it wouldn't do anything. But I don't know if it runs a push cable or not, I think it does. (The g/f's CVK40 doesn't run a push cable). Either way, though, I'll double check that. Probably a bit lean then. When you roll on the throttle the AP kicks in and the lean condition goes away, but just moving the throttle a tiny bit can give hesitation when its lean, as the AP is actuated by large amounts of throttle movement only. This jives with the high idle as well. Maybe go up a pilot jet or two. Also make sure the fuel screw is at a sane setting. If he isnt running a push/pull he needs to be, the FCR carbs close by themselves most of the time, but at high RPM's the slides can get held open by the incoming air, requiring the push cable to shut the slide. If he doesnt have that, he's in for a Toyota-esque stuck-at-full-throtlle ride eventually, which is obviously dangerous if you arent expecting it. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Feb 22, 2010 |
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Feb 22, 2010 23:37
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Phat_Albert posted:Probably a bit lean then. When you roll on the throttle the AP kicks in and the lean condition goes away, but just moving the throttle a tiny bit can give hesitation when its lean, as the AP is actuated by large amounts of throttle movement only. Alright, thanks. I can never remember which way lean and rich conditions go, I'm always stuck either referencing a book or looking it up/asking someone more experienced. I'd bet that it's the fuel screw in too far. I'm 99% sure he's running a push/pull setup. But honestly, what are the chances of that happening? All of the flatslides I've ever dealt with have really, really serious closing springs. My racebike didn't run pull cables, but you are talking about 2 smaller cylinders. Also,  at "toyota-esque stuck at full throttle". I wonder how long that's gonna be egg on toyota's face for...
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Feb 23, 2010 00:30
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The acceleration forces keeps the egg in contact with the face until sudden deceleration moves the egg towards the windshield.
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Feb 23, 2010 01:13
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