|
Maybe I'm alone in disliking bases that are that busy and complicated. Not only does it seem like a pain to try and attach your standard model to them, they're just so packed that it seems like it would detract from the model itself most of the time. I also get spergy about the way they end up conforming directly to the base dimensions. Why is there a tiny little goop pool the exact size of the base? Why is someone standing on it. Why would you be standing on the opening iris of a rapechamber? The ones Cakefool (I think) did were really nice, they had lots of neat little industrial elements while still looking like part of a greater scene and not overdoing it too much.
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 19:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 20, 2024 05:00 |
|
|
Cakefool posted:Anyone thinking of switching away from GW paints should note that no-one on the planet makes a paintpot as loving poo poo as GW, also, P3 & Vajello both make pretty drat good paints, and if you can't find them cheaper than GW I'll be amazed. P3s also come with about twice as much paint as gw pots. It's really noticeable when I transfer them to dropper bottles. PaintVagrant posted:
I saw something similar to these made by Micro Art Studios and thought they were awesome as poo poo but they only came in rounded bases. They're still 40mm, but I'd want my smaller troop units to have the rounded edge bases too and as far as I can tell nobody makes 25mm rounded edge bases. Did you make those or are they someone else's?
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 19:29
|
|
|
Ashcans posted:Maybe I'm alone in disliking bases that are that busy and complicated. Not only does it seem like a pain to try and attach your standard model to them, they're just so packed that it seems like it would detract from the model itself most of the time. I also get spergy about the way they end up conforming directly to the base dimensions. Why is there a tiny little goop pool the exact size of the base? Why is someone standing on it. Why would you be standing on the opening iris of a rapechamber? I think the trick with the elaborate bases is to paint them in more muted colors than those stock images use, because they would really divert attention from the model itself painted that way. I just like gay steampunk tentaclerape, what can I say
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 19:36
|
|
|
Ashcans posted:The ones Cakefool (I think) did were really nice, they had lots of neat little industrial elements while still looking like part of a greater scene and not overdoing it too much. Cool, thanks. *Waiting for Furret Basket to use & paint hers*
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 19:39
|
|
|
PV, wash-wise, how would you do a bronze? Mithril, Devlan x2, Mithril, Sepia?
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 19:53
|
|
|
I think boltgun, sepia, devlan shade, but I cant really remember
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 20:09
|
|
|
Why would you start with silver? My favorite way of doing bronze is: Vallejo Bronze Wash with mix of Vallejo Sepia Ink and Black highlight with Bronze highlight with Bronze + (a bright) Silver the black + Sepia wash is also my all-purpose metal wash Stock photo of my Leviathan, because that was one of the few times i bothered to do a decent light setup.  Edit: I remember promising more pictures of our Pulp City table, unfortunately i forgot to take my camera to the convention 
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 20:10
|
|
|
Burnished Gold and Brown ink used to be a good combo for bronze. A couple of years ago when inks were around I did the bronze on these that way. Maybe Burnished Gold and Devlan?   (same but with Dwarf Bronze and ink) richyp fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Mar 4, 2010 |
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 20:11
|
|
|
Bistromatic posted:Stock photo of my Leviathan, because that was one of the few times i bothered to do a decent light setup. Diggin the gently caress out of that base.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 20:18
|
|
|
The lipped bases for warmachine/etc are practically begging for the use of kewl water effects. Nice model bistro, youre a good painter as well as a stately gentleman
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 20:20
|
|
|
Bistromatic posted:Why would you start with silver? Cuz I only have silver paint. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 20:23
|
|
|
Start with silver because I hate non-silver metallics because they cover like poo poo :\
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 20:26
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:Start with silver because I hate non-silver metallics because they cover like poo poo :\ This, oh god this, gold on my recent troop of high elf archers was a pain in the rear end! You have two choices, paint straight from the pot and slop it on like glue or thin it down the tiniest bit and get no coverage what so ever and nice droopy clumps. Definitely testing silver and wash mixes in the future.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 20:38
|
|
|
Gold works ok if you base with something like scorched brown then just drybrush gold straight from the pot. Sometimes I'll do it right over the black primer too. Definitely not worth trying to actually *paint* with it though.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 20:42
|
|
|
mithril + gold, it sort of looks like white gold, then a sepia wash
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 20:52
|
|
|
I know thinning metallics is a no no here, but aside from many coats to cover a piece is there another problem doing this? I thin mine and yes it is frustrating sometimes that i need to put a billion coats on but it's after that and a grepphone sepia and it looks fine. I've used unthinned gold metallics and I'd really prefer my thinned gold's look in the end.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 21:00
|
|
|
I always thin metallics, the issue is that thinned golds dont cover at all, so you have to 2 or 3 coat them and they are gloppy and destroy brushes and generally infuriating
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 21:04
|
|
|
The only metallics I ever use are Boltgun and Burnished Gold. I thin the Boltgun just like anything else, but the Gold I either slap on right out of the pot (picking out details) or thin just a tiny tiny bit (for bigger areas). I know multiple thin coats will look better but jesus christ thinned GW gold takes forever to cover black primer.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 21:14
|
|
|
Do yourself a favour & get a pot of mithril silver or other bright silver, makes a brilliant highlight from boltgun upwards.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 21:22
|
|
|
Vallejo bright bronze thins remarkably well, considering. On a slightly related (and crossposty) note, I finished a model   Now to find a chance to actually buy my light box shopping list so that I have less of a lovely photo problem.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 21:40
|
|
|
Is there a good alternative to green stuff for gap filling? I'm really terrible with the stuff.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 21:49
|
|
|
Fix posted:Is there a good alternative to green stuff for gap filling? I'm really terrible with the stuff. Fill the gap with super glue, throw some baking soda on it. Dries instantly, fills the gap perfectly, sand it down a little bit.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 22:20
|
|
|
Ashcans posted:How are the metallics for P3? I have pretty much only bought Vallejo paint recently (except for GW washes) but I wasn't really taken by their metallics. Vallejo model color Brass is great, as is Oily Steel. gently caress the others.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 22:30
|
|
|
Fix posted:Is there a good alternative to green stuff for gap filling? I'm really terrible with the stuff. I use some paper towel or toilet paper. poo poo dries like cement!
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 22:43
|
|
|
so ya I have a skaven army I am painting traditionally, and it is taking a ton of time, also a warmachine army done in pink (seriously, gently caress painting pink) I now have an Ork army put together, I do not have the time or patience to do another horde army the normal way. I have a pot of army shader strong tone I bought on a whim some time ago and wondering if it would look ok on orks? What green should I use as a base that would look ok shaded with an earthy brown? I have looked around and saw some badly painted orks dipped with dark tone, but the base coloring was sloppy so hard to say if it looked ok.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2010 23:02
|
|
|
Fix posted:Is there a good alternative to green stuff for gap filling? I'm really terrible with the stuff. Have you tried to make the green stuff into a long thin, snake like form? Then all you do is press a small amount into the hole using some sort of knife and BAM, done.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2010 00:29
|
|
|
Mr.Booger posted:so ya I have a skaven army I am painting traditionally, and it is taking a ton of time, also a warmachine army done in pink (seriously, gently caress painting pink) Army dip might work, but I'm a fan of GW washes to make horde painting quick and painless. When I do my lootas this month, I'll do a before and after shot of an ork boy as well. You will see the magic of foundation paints+badab black.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2010 00:33
|
|
|
crime fighting hog posted:Fill the gap with super glue, throw some baking soda on it. Dries instantly, fills the gap perfectly, sand it down a little bit. Alternatively, I use blu-tac.. sure it never cures or anything but once it's been hit with a few voats of PVA + sand etc. then no ones ever going to know its under there and it's pretty solid from there anyway v  v
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2010 00:58
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:
wanna gently caress that steel portal
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2010 01:20
|
|
|
Bistromatic posted:
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2010 04:22
|
|
|
Bistromatic posted:This is awesome! I really like the logs you did (A silly thing to like, I know, especially when it's an awesome model all around) Also, thanks for posting this! I decided to try my hand at some water action because of it! Here's my second kustom kommando! (Cross posted from oath thread)  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. I haven't added the watery looking stuff yet, but I think you want to do that after painting the model. I know it's just a model with no paint, but C&C always welcome 
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2010 06:36
|
|
|
Before I bother trying to assemble my Stormvermin, should I elevate them somehow over the base? I could swear it came up in this thread that just putting models up a bit helps with basing down the road, and now that I'm finally basing my older models, and getting goddamn glue and sand everywhere, I'm thinking this sounds smart. So is slapping little risers beneath their feet a good idea?
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2010 06:36
|
|
|
I honestly wouldn't bother with it for horde units. Maybe for the front rank or characters, that kind of thing. But you'd drive yourself nuts doing whole big units like that.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2010 06:38
|
|
|
crime fighting hog posted:Fill the gap with super glue, throw some baking soda on it. Dries instantly, fills the gap perfectly, sand it down a little bit. Found a video on doing this. I'll give it a shot. It's insane how much of a gap there is in the Exorcist pipes. That whole assembly is junk, never mind trying to get it to sit flush on the back of the Immolator top. prxi posted:Have you tried to make the green stuff into a long thin, snake like form? Then all you do is press a small amount into the hole using some sort of knife and BAM, done.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2010 10:57
|
|
|
Got some more work done on my warhound, namely the leg armour. Also covered the upper body. Still needs detailing on the upper body and head, and joints to mount the weapons, but after that it's probably ready for paint. Click here for the full 574x700 image.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2010 13:20
|
|
|
R.S. Gumby posted:Got some more work done on my warhound, namely the leg armour. Also covered the upper body. Still needs detailing on the upper body and head, and joints to mount the weapons, but after that it's probably ready for paint. Whoa
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2010 15:15
|
|
|
R.S. Gumby posted:Got some more work done on my warhound, namely the leg armour. Also covered the upper body. Still needs detailing on the upper body and head, and joints to mount the weapons, but after that it's probably ready for paint. What set of templates are you using? I had a quick play around with the ones by some JSV fella or whatever his name his and the head is baffling the hell out of me. I've got the 3 main components, and barring having to add tabs, I can't for the life of me work out how the feck it's supposed to go together. The bit causing me the most grief is the bit labelled 'lower head assembly' - some of the slim bits just don't seem to want to really fit where I'd expect them to. I'm just doing a dry run with cardboard before I throw myself in the deep end so it's not a biggy if I need to scrap it and try again but I'm using some lush card that I'd rather make some decent use of 
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2010 16:29
|
|
|
Fyrbrand posted:Army dip might work, but I'm a fan of GW washes to make horde painting quick and painless. When I do my lootas this month, I'll do a before and after shot of an ork boy as well. You will see the magic of foundation paints+badab black. I am already pretty good with washes, inks, feathering,wetblending, etc. I just want something fast for these guys. If i get out my washes i'll be too tempted to paint them methodically as I do my skaven :P
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2010 16:53
|
|
|
Fix posted:Yeah, I have, I'm just awful at mixing it right, and it always dries out too quick. I dunno. I have the opposite issue, mine takes a few hours to dry... I use the green stuff from Gale Force 9
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2010 17:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 20, 2024 05:00 |
|
|
Where in the UK can i get some decent fine brushes? I tend to paint most everything around the Detail / Fine Detail level. I got the full set of GW brushes for xmas and went to some random hobby store and picked up a couple different branded 000's. the GW fine now has about 3 strands left in it, one of the 000's is just long and sloppy (one dip in the water and it flops all over the place) and the other 000 is sorta 'split' in half so i end up getting paint everywhere when i'm trying to do really fine work.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2010 17:49
|
|