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I could see that intention but what I'm saying is why is a punch meant to go inside a .125 hole, so freaking close to .125? Why isn't it .120 or less?
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Feb 10, 2010 22:17
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RealKyleH posted:I could see that intention but what I'm saying is why is a punch meant to go inside a .125 hole, so freaking close to .125? Why isn't it .120 or less? This right here is why no machinist has ever truly pleasured a woman.
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Feb 10, 2010 22:51
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frozenphil posted:This right here is why no machinist has ever truly pleasured a woman.  Seriously though, those are some nice looking punches, but I could never use them for fear of wearing them out and being out the cost.
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Feb 10, 2010 23:10
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I will now be purchasing those punches for work on firearms. If you're working on someone else's gun, or you just want to keep yours immaculate, there's a whole other strata of tool quality out there.
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Feb 10, 2010 23:58
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RealKyleH posted:If you don't drill stainless often or at all regular ol' HSS bit will be fine. What if all I do is drill stainless and aluminium? Which bits should I be looking for stainless and aluminium? (mainly like 0.032" - 0.016" aluminium, and 0.020" stainless sheet metal. Nothing like 1" of stainless or anything).
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Feb 11, 2010 01:12
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RealKyleH posted:I could see that intention but what I'm saying is why is a punch meant to go inside a .125 hole, so freaking close to .125? Why isn't it .120 or less? I think the important point is that they're not exactly for brute work on cars and general "disassembly for repair" work. Guns would be a big one, as well as doing machine work like he's doing to build them. Either way they're bound to be ridiculously expensive, and they're on a tool form full of people who collect tools. You can't really expect sanity.
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Feb 11, 2010 01:20
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Sockington posted:What if all I do is drill stainless and aluminium? Which bits should I be looking for stainless and aluminium? (mainly like 0.032" - 0.016" aluminium, and 0.020" stainless sheet metal. Nothing like 1" of stainless or anything). HSS will do thin stuff just fine, just keep your speed down and use a bit more pressure for aluminum. Cobalt steel is better for hard material like SS and gooey stuff like aluminum. Lots of lube helps too.
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Feb 11, 2010 01:21
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oxbrain posted:HSS will do thin stuff just fine, just keep your speed down and use a bit more pressure for aluminum. Cobalt steel is better for hard material like SS and gooey stuff like aluminum. Lots of lube helps too. Wax works really well on Aluminum.
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Feb 11, 2010 01:23
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Sockington posted:What if all I do is drill stainless and aluminium? Which bits should I be looking for stainless and aluminium? (mainly like 0.032" - 0.016" aluminium, and 0.020" stainless sheet metal. Nothing like 1" of stainless or anything). Cobalt 118* if theyre used often, HSS 118* if theyre used in your garage now and then. Bright/plain/normal/uncoated finish should be fine.
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Feb 11, 2010 02:40
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RealKyleH posted:Cobalt 118* if theyre used often, HSS 118* if theyre used in your garage now and then. I'm drilling 1/8 and 3/16 holes for either pop rivets or screws - just tiny little holes. The pure carbide stuff is too brittle, right? So look to something Cobalt, correct?
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Feb 11, 2010 03:07
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RealKyleH posted:Cobalt 118* if theyre used often, HSS 118* if theyre used in your garage now and then. Bright/plain/normal/uncoated finish should be fine. 118* has always been the standard, but it seems like much of the new stuff is 135*, with a split point. I'm not arguing against your suggestion, just commenting on a current general trend that will affect availability.
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Feb 11, 2010 03:23
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CatBus posted:118* has always been the standard, but it seems like much of the new stuff is 135*, with a split point. I'm not arguing against your suggestion, just commenting on a current general trend that will affect availability. Good to know,when you say general trend do you mean in machining in industry or for whats in hardware stores for general purpose?
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Feb 11, 2010 05:09
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Sockington posted:I'm drilling 1/8 and 3/16 holes for either pop rivets or screws - just tiny little holes. Solid Carbide is ideal, but if you're talking sheet metal + drill press or cordless drill, you're far better buying a high cobalt HSS drill. If you plan to drill an abundance of holes, look for a nice coated one. Carbide likes rigidity and high cutting speeds, so unless your application will involve industrial machinery (HD drill press, milling machines, lathes, etc.) you're more likely to fracture the cutting edge. HSS = tough, and added cobalt is great for the higher red-hardness.
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Feb 11, 2010 19:39
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RealKyleH posted:Good to know,when you say general trend do you mean in machining in industry or for whats in hardware stores for general purpose? I bought a set of cobalt bits in Dec., and in searching around, all of the mainstream brands (Irwin, Bosch, Milwaukee) seemed to only be available as 135* split point. I don't know what the specialty machinist brands are doing.
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Feb 12, 2010 00:28
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I suggested a cobalt 118 degree bit simply because that's what I (erroneously) thought was most widely available. It seems searching MSC pretty much every one of their cobalt 1/2" drill bits are 135 degree, split point.
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Feb 12, 2010 07:38
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Snap on truck finally showed up again at my shop on friday. What a happy time that is, until I realized I racked up about $600. It woulda been more too, but my co-worker bought that last set of those new line wrench switchblade lookin things he had. You guys were mentioning punches, and this was one of the things I got: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=79826&group_ID=20844 I really am liking them, but I feel it was as much that they just look so drat neat as well as how useful they are that went into me getting them And to make today even better, I snatched up this set of snap on impacts off craigslist for a steal  Click here for the full 800x600 image. DKWildz fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Mar 1, 2010 |
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Mar 1, 2010 23:21
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Look what I found. 5hp 230v @ 30A. Almost 15cfm @ 175psi T30-type pump. Heavy as hell. Now I need to figure out how to run a new feed under the driveway to power the beast. I cannot wait to fire it up. I told her I spent a couple hundred bucks on an Air Compressor, and that it would help me a whole lot replacing her struts. She didn't notice the monstrosity at the bottom of the driveway, and now it is safely hidden in the garage. PeaceFrog fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Mar 2, 2010 |
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Mar 2, 2010 03:50
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Any coupons or deals floating out there for swivel impact sockets? I had a small set snap on given to me that.... "walked off". Well not a full set. Just 3 of them. I was looking at 1/2" drive in a few sizes, problem is I need a 1 1/8th for pulling my control arms off, and I'd like to see what's out there before I start dropping 50-60$ for one. Plus the other sizes. It's pricey enough that I may wind up getting a set instead. snapon has a set, and craftsman has one that, oddly enough is almost priced as high as snapon, given that choice I'd go for the snap on. Any other ideas? I was looking at Proto but they don't seem to have the size sockets I need. SK seems decent with a slightly better price than snap on. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Mar 5, 2010 |
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Mar 5, 2010 02:43
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What do you use to strip very small wires? My cheapo wire strippers go down to 22, but I've come across wires smaller than that before. A couple tiny wires on some aux lights I put on my bike for one. Telephone wire, for another. I haven't been able to find something that goes lower than 22 at the big box stores.
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Mar 5, 2010 07:41
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Uthor posted:What do you use to strip very small wires? My cheapo wire strippers go down to 22, but I've come across wires smaller than that before. A couple tiny wires on some aux lights I put on my bike for one. Telephone wire, for another. I haven't been able to find something that goes lower than 22 at the big box stores. usually just go around it with a box cutter, then do a perpendicular cut and you can tear the coating away
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Mar 5, 2010 08:40
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Uthor posted:What do you use to strip very small wires? My cheapo wire strippers go down to 22, but I've come across wires smaller than that before. A couple tiny wires on some aux lights I put on my bike for one. Telephone wire, for another. I haven't been able to find something that goes lower than 22 at the big box stores. I got a pair of Craftsman wire strippers (yellow handle, the red ones are bigger) that go down to 26 gauge. I can't imagine working with wire smaller than that.
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Mar 5, 2010 09:31
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Uthor posted:What do you use to strip very small wires? My cheapo wire strippers go down to 22, but I've come across wires smaller than that before. A couple tiny wires on some aux lights I put on my bike for one. Telephone wire, for another. I haven't been able to find something that goes lower than 22 at the big box stores. I have a pair of these http://www.curiousinventor.com/store/product/100 that I got from radio shack for cheap, does 30 gauge no problem.
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Mar 5, 2010 09:51
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Suniikaa posted:I have a pair of these http://www.curiousinventor.com/store/product/100 that I got from radio shack for cheap, does 30 gauge no problem. For that price, I'll see if I can't find some at RadioShack when I go in there next week. I don't have an immediate need, but I'll be glad to have 'em when I do.
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Mar 5, 2010 10:11
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I use a set of those for fiber optic wire, aka they get small. /CRUNK JUICE
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Mar 5, 2010 13:53
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Havent used it for wires that small though I am pretty sure they make die sets for it. http://www.amazon.com/Ideal-45-098-20-30-Stripmaster-Strippers/dp/B000B5Y9YM Much prefer it to the other style of cutters shown above though those are still better than box cuttes. Box cutters on small wires is a good way to fail tensile tests.
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Mar 5, 2010 16:59
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For really tiny wires, I just use my thumbnail. But a careful application of nippers works pretty well too if you have a steady hand.
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Mar 5, 2010 18:21
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I bought a big one of those and gave to my dad. I like the concept, but they are awkward to use sometimes. Like if the wire is in a tight space or coming at you at a weird angle.
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Mar 5, 2010 18:57
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I use one of these types mostly: There's a few different places that sell them - they're not expensive, and I find they're much easier to use than most strippers I've tried. They're "rated" 26-14 AWG, if that will do what you need. For scale, they're about 5" long.
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Mar 5, 2010 19:12
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Are jacks like that any good to work safely underneath a car or is that more of a certain death by smothering kind of tool? I'm planning to drop the transmission if that's any indication.
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Mar 5, 2010 19:26
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duep posted:Are jacks like that any good to work safely underneath a car or is that more of a certain death by smothering kind of tool? I'm planning to drop the transmission if that's any indication. Jacks like what?
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Mar 5, 2010 19:30
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duep posted:Are jacks like that any good to work safely underneath a car or is that more of a certain death by smothering kind of tool? I'm planning to drop the transmission if that's any indication. 
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Mar 5, 2010 19:33
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oxbrain posted:Jacks like what? or if that's not working: click me Right, as I'm going to buy I'll see whats available with a four point footprint. duep fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Mar 5, 2010 |
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Mar 5, 2010 19:34
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If I'm under the car, I want nice, solid, welded metal jacks that in no way fold, just out of principle.  Edit: VV yeah, I meant jack stands. I don't get under a car on jacks at all. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Mar 6, 2010 |
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Mar 5, 2010 19:37
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:If I'm under the car, I want nice, solid, welded metal jacks that in no way fold, just out of principle. A quality jack stand as well. http://www.usjack.com/ Problem is, many jacks/stands sold in retail stores are .. kinda junk, you have to special order something decent. I wound up getting my usjacks from jackxchange somewhere in orange county, CA.
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Mar 5, 2010 20:22
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Suniikaa posted:I have a pair of these http://www.curiousinventor.com/store/product/100 that I got from radio shack for cheap, does 30 gauge no problem. Harbor Freight has these with yellow handles for the same price if Radio Shack doesn't pan out. Good down to infinity. e: Suniikaa, thanks for the Curious Inventor link, turns out the rest of the site is pretty cool. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Mar 5, 2010 |
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Mar 5, 2010 22:39
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I bought a Milwaukee Sawzall from a sketchy dude yesterday for $25. Came with 2 10 packs of brand new blades. Pretty sure it was stolen the way he was behaving.
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Mar 5, 2010 23:27
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Rhyno posted:I bought a Milwaukee Sawzall from a sketchy dude yesterday for $25. Came with 2 10 packs of brand new blades. Pretty sure it was stolen the way he was behaving. It's a Sawzall. Cut your guilt up until the pieces are too small to bother you anymore. Then do it to everything else in the world.
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Mar 6, 2010 06:31
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Sawzall is like duct tape in reverse, it's perhaps the most awesome power tool in existence.
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Mar 7, 2010 00:10
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grover posted:Sawzall is like duct tape in reverse, it's perhaps the most awesome power tool in existence. I'm pretty sure I could cut the planet in half with this thing. It makes my arms ache after a few seconds of use.
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Mar 7, 2010 00:22
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Rhyno posted:I'm pretty sure I could cut the planet in half with this thing. It makes my arms ache after a few seconds of use. Use it more, this too shall pass. More.
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Mar 7, 2010 03:26
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