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one of these for sandblasting the seats I'm rebuilding And one of these just because. 
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Mar 9, 2010 02:18
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daslog posted:And one of these just because. Swap out the washers on that kit if you got it from HF. I bent them the first time I used it and had to grab some from my nut&bolt bins.
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Mar 9, 2010 02:51
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Rhyno posted:I'm pretty sure I could cut the planet in half with this thing. It makes my arms ache after a few seconds of use.
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Mar 9, 2010 02:55
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PeaceFrog posted:On the older ones the front black plastic part was steel covered in rubber and weighs half again as much. All at the nose. Try holding that above your head for a bit and your arms feel like Jello, and shake like a fatty. But it is drat satisfying to take something from one piece into two, or 50. Sawzall-ing is an art form. I actually cut both my arms off with it as I ran out of things to cut up. Posting with a pencil in my teeth.
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Mar 9, 2010 03:01
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Rhyno posted:Swap out the washers on that kit if you got it from HF. I bent them the first time I used it and had to grab some from my nut&bolt bins. Good idea. thanks.
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Mar 9, 2010 04:04
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PeaceFrog posted:Sawzall-ing is an art form. I did listen to my cousin talk about using a sawzall for making artwork this weekend.
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Mar 9, 2010 19:18
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I still insist that Air-carbon Arc Cutting and Gouging is more awesome and satisfying to use then a Sawz-all. Either that, or an Exothermic oxygen lance.
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Mar 11, 2010 04:29
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Can you use your air carbon arc cutting and gouging doohicky to cut a car in half, then go inside the house and do some demolition work, and then go trim trees? Unless you are bringing det cord to the table, I'm voting sawzall and cutting the table in half.
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Mar 11, 2010 04:37
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I've never used one but I imagine firefighters get a huge hard-on when using the jaws of life to rip poo poo up.
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Mar 11, 2010 04:44
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You see, a Sawzall doesn't use an insane amounts of amps, which instantly melts metal and blows it 12 feet away with compressed air, while making an intensely bright arc and a deafening sound that without a doubt requires ear protection. So basically, to sum up, a Sawz-all is just a big vibrator the pussies use while dicking around their house when the real men go play with electricity and steel outside. We are talking about awesome and gratifying, not home improvement.*  *Well I am anyway, don't know about you.
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Mar 11, 2010 05:23
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PeaceFrog posted:Can you use your air carbon arc cutting and gouging doohicky to cut a car in half, then go inside the house and do some demolition work, and then go trim trees? Unless you are bringing det cord to the table, I'm voting sawzall and cutting the table in half. Why would you NOT bring det cord to the table? Or are you suggesting I use the SAWZALL to cut my steaks instead?
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Mar 11, 2010 05:53
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ab0z posted:are you suggesting I use the SAWZALL to cut my steaks instead? Well I know what I'm doing with this thing next.
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Mar 11, 2010 06:43
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I cut up a Harbor Freight "SawsAll" with a real Sawzall once, it was gratifying.
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Mar 11, 2010 06:46
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Baby Hitler posted:I cut up a Harbor Freight "SawsAll" with a real Sawzall once, it was gratifying. This gives me all sorts of ideas. I could have endless fun taking apart/destroying the harbor freight version of tools with good quality versions of the same tools.
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Mar 11, 2010 06:48
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ab0z posted:This gives me all sorts of ideas. I could have endless fun taking apart/destroying the harbor freight version of tools with good quality versions of the same tools. That could a great website. Especially if there's video.
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Mar 11, 2010 06:58
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ab0z posted:Why would you NOT bring det cord to the table? Or are you suggesting I use the SAWZALL to cut my steaks instead?
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Mar 11, 2010 07:09
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dv6speed posted:
I'm sure most of you guys have too.
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Mar 11, 2010 13:35
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Having mixed feelings about Snap-On coming to our shop again. The wallet is screaming, but the ratchets are sooooo nice. So much more stuff to get too, but it costs so drat much.  Click here for the full 600x800 image. Basically been filling out all of my tools. The old harbor freight ratchets I had to start with are now backups to my backups, but they still served their purpose! Doing this fleet stuff too I've actually only broken one socket so far, but maybe I just jinxed myself.
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Mar 12, 2010 05:56
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DKWildz posted:Having mixed feelings about Snap-On coming to our shop again. The wallet is screaming, but the ratchets are sooooo nice. So much more stuff to get too, but it costs so drat much. On the upside, if you ever have to sell it, you can usually get about 75% of the value for it, or trade it with another mechanic for something else. I wound up calling the Snap On truck for the first time today. I needed a few impact swivel sockets to work on my suspension and wound up ordering other stuff.  Those new ratchets are really nice, the dual 80's. Wound up ordering a set of the newer style ratchets, the rest of my order shows up next week. I had a full set of craftsmen, which will make a fine backup set, but the craftsman ratchets pissed me off, a bit too much slop and they don't always fit that great in tight spaces. The heavy truck stuff [3/4" drive] I'll stick with Proto. I was going to go with Proto for smaller stuff but it costs the same as Snap On, and they don't make swivel sockets, plus Snap on and the other truck based tool places will at least show up to swap out tools if you get a good vendor. One way to save a bit money with snap on is to order the industrial finish versions as an option. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Mar 12, 2010 |
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Mar 12, 2010 07:33
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BigKOfJustice posted:I needed a few impact swivel sockets to work on my suspension and wound up ordering other stuff. I have a a dozen or so of those, you'll be very pleased. They've been money on bell housing bolts for transmissions with a 3 foot extension  One of the guys at works hates them though, as snap-on uses an internal pin on that has caused a couple of his more used sizes to break a lot. He likes the Matco versions that I can't recall exactly how they're joined, but it's without a straight pin across it, I think some kinda ball bearing inside it. Supposed to be more durable. They do look nice, so if and when mine start breaking maybe I'll fill them back in with theirs.
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Mar 12, 2010 08:03
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Had some free time at work so organized my tool cart from the atrocious mess it was into something much more manageable and aesthetically pleasing even. Kinda blurry from the iphone under the lights, but should be able to give you a good enough idea of how it is. Only had to do a little work with it after being organized, but it is some difference already. And knowing when something isnt there will probably help my forgetful self with not losing things.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.
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Mar 13, 2010 06:21
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Splizwarf posted:It's a Sawzall. Cut your guilt up until the pieces are too small to bother you anymore. Then do it to everything else in the world. Rhyno posted:I'm pretty sure I could cut the planet in half with this thing. It makes my arms ache after a few seconds of use. It's how I get things like this out for "garbage day"  dv6speed posted:You see, a Sawzall doesn't use an insane amounts of amps I dunno, 13amps of Sawzall has yet to meet something it didn't like. Sockington fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Mar 13, 2010 |
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Mar 13, 2010 14:22
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Sockington posted:I dunno, 13amps of Sawzall has yet to meet something it didn't like. I'm talking more like a range of anywhere from 90-1200 amps depending on carbon diameter (1/8" - 1"). At home, I use a wimpy 1/8" or 3/16" carbons which uses 100-300 amps. At work I used to regularly use 1/4" carbons which I ran at about 400-500 amps. And yes, I've been shocked with that 400 amps before on a hot sweaty day due to my own stupidity. It knocked me back about 4 feet.
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Mar 13, 2010 14:56
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dv6speed posted:I'm talking more like a range of anywhere from 90-1200 amps depending on carbon diameter (1/8" - 1"). I doubt my 100amp service would be up for that kind of tom foolery without some kind of crazy step-down panel/splice into the overhead lines infront of the house. \/\/\/ Only have 30amp service in the garage, so I had to make sure to calculate my 8amps of lighting + 20amps of welder = 2amps of non-popped breakers. Sockington fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Mar 13, 2010 |
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Mar 13, 2010 15:00
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Well, when you stop and consider that it's coming out of a welding machine the service requirements aren't as large as the output requirements. For example, my Lincoln Idealarc can do a maximum of 250 DC or 300 AC amps, on a 50 amp 220v service. Once you start getting above that size machine, you are in the realm of 3 phase service or large engine driven machines. That being said, you can't use any single phase DC welding machine to run a DC carbon. Single phase AC doesn't rectify into a clean enough signal to maintain an arc with a carbon. They do however, make AC carbons. I use my engine driven welder for running DC carbons. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Mar 13, 2010 |
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Mar 13, 2010 15:03
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dv6speed posted:And yes, I've been shocked with that 400 amps before on a hot sweaty day due to my own stupidity. It knocked me back about 4 feet. I watched a guy get a hold of the supply line for this eight pack (8 300 amp welders in one box with a single 250hp diesel running them) when he was looking for the dipstick. It was hilarious. It's the big blue box next to the Z. 
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Mar 13, 2010 17:18
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I can use my sawzall on the end of a 100' extension cord.
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Mar 13, 2010 18:00
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oxbrain posted:I can use my sawzall on the end of a 100' extension cord. We have an extension cord at the shop for 3 phase 220v stuff. It's hilariously huge, but that's what it takes to go 50' with that stuff.
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Mar 13, 2010 19:01
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I want to polish up a rough-cast aluminum intake manifold. What sort of (electric) tool would be best to take down the rough casting? No air available here, unfortunately. I was thinking about getting some sort of random orbital sander with emery pads on it, but I don't know how well that would work, or if there is something better I could use. An angle grinder with sanding disc would be too harsh for aluminum, and a dremel is too small to do the whole thing. I want to turn this  into this   (neither one are my car, pics found on internet) Any recs?
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Mar 13, 2010 21:45
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Black88GTA posted:I want to polish up a rough-cast aluminum intake manifold. E: First I would cut the old motor out with det cord. PeaceFrog fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Mar 13, 2010 |
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Mar 13, 2010 22:31
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PeaceFrog posted:Have fun with that. I would grind off the rough details with a grinder, and then start at it with a small detail sander, and progress into hand sanding as it got better, likely using a dremel to get at the pain in the rear end bits. Seems like an awful lot of work for no gain. I'd rather swap in a chrome 350 than sand that to perfection. Yeah, it may be a lot of work, but it gives me something to do while I'm trapped inside and can't do anything outdoors (rain  ). I have a spare intake manifold already out, sitting here doing nothing. The whole car has to come apart this summer anyways, since it blew a head gasket a week ago. May as well have this ready to go when I'm ready to put everything back together.I have a Dremel already for the detail bits, and a crappy cordless detail sander with a triangle shaped head for nooks / crannies, but I still need to get some sort of sanding / grinding thing to take down the majority of it.
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Mar 13, 2010 23:26
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I'm looking at doing a timing belt change soon and I'll need an engine support bar. I'm divided between the 1100lb, $100 one from Northern Tools and the 1000lb, $50 (now on sale, from our old friends) Harbor Freight. I'm kind of leaning towards the one from Harbor Freight, but it is Harbor Freight and the Northern Tools one might be the safer option. Thoughts?
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Mar 14, 2010 00:39
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I'm guessing that intake manifold probably got thrown in a big media shaker if it wasn't just hella man-hours with grinders and poo poo. Like a much more industrial version of a little rock tumbler. Maybe you can find a machine shop (I used one refinishing bearings) or somewhere that will do that for you. Otherwise, there's tons of good google results for "polish cast aluminum" if you feel like torturing yourself and likely ruining a manifold or two by doing it manually.
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Mar 14, 2010 01:06
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Commodore 64 posted:I'm looking at doing a timing belt change soon and I'll need an engine support bar. 2x4 and a couple eye-bolts. If you've got a big motor, make it a 4x4.
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Mar 14, 2010 01:12
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Commodore 64 posted:I'm looking at doing a timing belt change soon and I'll need an engine support bar. It's probably the same one.
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Mar 14, 2010 01:13
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daslog posted:It's probably the same one. Not even probably. IT IS EXACTLY THE SAME. Northern just sends nice catalogs and advertises, thus the price bump. Lowclock posted:I'm guessing that intake manifold probably got thrown in a big media shaker if it wasn't just hella man-hours with grinders and poo poo. Like a much more industrial version of a little rock tumbler. Maybe you can find a machine shop (I used one refinishing bearings) or somewhere that will do that for you. Otherwise, there's tons of good google results for "polish cast aluminum" if you feel like torturing yourself and likely ruining a manifold or two by doing it manually. You really can't gently caress up the manifold unless you punch a hole or gently caress up the flanges.
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Mar 14, 2010 03:48
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Lowclock posted:I'm guessing that intake manifold probably got thrown in a big media shaker if it wasn't just hella man-hours with grinders and poo poo. Like a much more industrial version of a little rock tumbler. Maybe you can find a machine shop (I used one refinishing bearings) or somewhere that will do that for you. Otherwise, there's tons of good google results for "polish cast aluminum" if you feel like torturing yourself and likely ruining a manifold or two by doing it manually. That car belongs to a guy on a SVX forum that I frequent. According to him, the heavy stuff was done with an air-powered die grinder and then it was hand finished. No air here, so I have to find an electric equivalent, or something to substitute. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be any electric equivalent to an air die grinder. Drills don't spin nearly as fast, and dremels are too small. So far, I've managed to get the EDIT: I can't count 
Black88GTA fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Mar 14, 2010 |
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Mar 14, 2010 03:59
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Black88GTA posted:That car belongs to a guy on a SVX forum that I frequent. According to him, the heavy stuff was done with an air-powered die grinder and then it was hand finished. My BP intake manifold.     Yeah, I bought a special intake manifold design and painted it. That thing still sits under my bench mocking me for giving up on the awful sanding I did.
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Mar 14, 2010 04:24
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You can get an appropriately sized arbor, and use a Rotozip as a die grinder (or so I'm told- I use air).
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Mar 14, 2010 04:34
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If you do use a grinder, buy a bunch of wheels because aluminum will foul a grinder in a big hurry. You must really hate yourself. This will be the messiest job you will ever do.
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Mar 15, 2010 13:51
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